vest pattern leather dimensions

This is the dimentions for how much leather you will need for the vest.
EDIT** See below, the corrected vest pattern leather blocks are below under Zam I am's post 10/11/03.**


Do not use these:Vest Front 26"x16" (2 pcs)
Vest Back 26" x 20" (1 pc)
Flaps 14" x 9" (4 pcs)
Facings: Back neck 12" x 6" (1 pc)
Armhole Front 12" x 12" (2 Pcs)
Armhole Back 12" x 8" (2 pcs)
front neck 9" x 6" (2 pcs)
side lacing facing 15"x 8 (2 pcs)

This is also estimated for a person about a size 10. Or a medium.

So, I can't tell you how much square footage exactly, because all the pieces are different.

Cool... thanks Zam I Am!!!

Now... to go find some suitable leather... *sighs*

I might just go vinyl... this leather hunting is great, but wastes LOTS of leather and for an ungodly price, if we go with plonge.
If we did go with moncal's plonge cow leather, it would mean two hides. If it was 6.99 SQ FT X 19 SQ FT X 2 hides, then = $251.64 to 307.56 just for leather, not including sewing it together.

Zam I Am wrote:
6.99 SQ FT X 19 SQ FT X 2 hides, then = $251.64 to 307.56 .

Yikes! Do we definitely need approx. 38 square feet for the vest? I take it this doesn't include the cummerbund? Have you approximated the cummerbund yet?

edit:
I may have miscalculated but from your dimensions above I'm guessing about 22 square feet. $7.00 sq ft. X 22 Sq ft. = $154.00 total (not including cummerbund)

Ok, when I used this pic, http://www.justleather.com/remnants/rem0655.jpg
I printed it out, then I estimated using all the dimentions above. We need two hides. Unfortunately, it's not like regular square material, there is a LOT of "square footage" that is lost cause leather isn't perfectly square, like fabric is cut. So, when they say 22 square ft hide, it's only really like 14 sq feet worth of real cutting area.

Ah yes, of course
****. Plus some of the edges probably won't be useable anyway.

What to do?

Vinyl? I mean really, there is too much leather waste just for the vest. I have seen some vinyl, it looks exactly like leather and you can't tell the difference AT ALL. I can't imagine getting like 6 lamskin hides just to make a vest. We'll see. I mean my seamstress did it out of vinyl...

Or, better yet, why not, all the outside pieces = leather, and facings = vinyl?

just a thought.Actually, I heard that it's not good to mix fabrics due to consistency issues, some act different than others. Ie, some gather and bunch more than others when sewing. So, mebbe a bad thought? Any people who sew out there that can answer this question? vinyl + leather?

Edit** 8/1 I went ahead with ebinger brothers I got 4 white lambskin hides approx 35.5 sq. ft. at $122 shipped. If you want to do the same, call and ask for Peter. Tell him you are a friend of mine, and that you need enuff hides for the same vest dimentions that I gave him. He will then mark the backs of the hides with numbers corresponding to the vest leather dimentions above. He managed to get all dimentions barely on those four hides, but you should ask for 5 just to have enuff to test paint/make cumberbun etc. (i ordered another hide a day later) I am going to have the vest made by my seamstress, hopefully, it all works out, there was some problems with her pattern right now due to sewing on such thick vinyl. She couldn't get some of the seams/panels to line up correctly. I will see her tomorrow. The lambskin is actually a lot thinner and pliable than vinyl. So, final patterning might wind up being off of my leather vest.

Thanks again ZIA!!!

Have you decided what size eyelets are used on the vest? Are they brass? *They look like they've been dragged through a dirt-pile - like the rest of Zam's costume! *

vest eyelets are 3 mm or 1/8" I also bought a eyelet setter for it to, haven't tested it just yet.

Another question...

Is there an item number or anything we need to specify when we order the leather from Peter at Ebinger Bros.? You mentioned one earlier on a different thread re: the vest leather - but I'm not sure if it is the same one you ordered here or not. I don't want to make a mistake on this...

Thanks!

I am gonna snag a piece and try to paint it first to see if it takes the paint ok. You might wanna wait on purchasing, but Peter knows me and all the stuff that I have purchased, if you say white lambskin, and the dimentions I gave him, you'll be fine. JUST DON'T ORDER the pig suede chamois for the veil/mock hood - it doesn't dye well. For some reason it worked on my test piece, but the ordered one was aweful, didn't take color very well at all.

Okay... I'll wait on the lambskin then.

Strange on the test piece... did you do anything different? Did you try re-dyeing it?

On the eyelets... I agree, I think they're copper. I've seen some someplace.. now... just to remember where. Small teeny-tiny ones are easy.. but these are larger. Lemme look around.

*edit* Well - I have 1/8" eyelets already - and they look too durned small. I think they're 3/16. I don't see how lacing could be threaded through the 1/8."

You should be able to find copper 1/8" eyelets at Michaels/JoAnn or any scrapbooking store. $3 for 100 or so. I'll have to go look and see if they have larger ones available.

Okay... found out what the deal is on those eyelets.

In the SEWING Dept. the eyelets would be 1/8". In the SCRAPBOOKING section the eyelets would be 3/16". Apparently they are measured differently *I don't know why* I think they must measure the center hole in the sewing eyelets and the whole eyelet for scrapbooking.

Don't think there is much difference in quality... and the scrapbooking eyelets generally have more color variations available - if you can find them in the 3/16" size.

So... we were both right ZIA!

I looked in JoAnn's I couldn't find copper. Michaels? you say?

Actually... a scrapbooking store would be more likely to carry them. I went to JoAnn's today and they didn't have them. Too blasted hot to go anywhere else.. 112F!!! *need a sweaty withered pathetic icon to go here!* Michaels might have them, they generally have more of that sort of stuff - but you may end up having to buy a whole bunch of different colors just to get the copper ones.. if they have the 3/16" size...

GREAT SITE THIS IS.

Okay DCB - Zam I Am and I are asking your professional opinion on the eyelet color. Are they copper or are they an antiqued brass or something else alltogether?

In some pictures they look one color... in other pics another color. Are they Clawdite eyelets? Y'know.. changing colors all the time or something?

Here are Maul Maus's generous eyelet offerings. Thank you so much for sending em, wow our zam family is so awesome ain't it?! We need pick one right away... so is it copper, brass or antique brass?


I am sooo leaning toward copper with purple airbrush... Any other opinions?

I think the copper with purple paint might yield a very close similarity

I agree with u zamiam

I got all of these pieces on Sunday. So please don't critique them until after dragon con. We did our best this weekend to put everything together.
Well, The vest got done, and the under bodice and welted pants are done. Things Zam I Ain't and I had to do ourselves: Resew the top flaps of the vest, glue down the facings, restuff the shoulderpads, paint, cut out the hose connector holes, reinforce the backing, put eyelets in, lace up. My seamstress did all the other sewing stuff on the vest.
Sorry, I forgot to ask her for the leather dimentions again. arg... Welp, here it is. This is the front of course.

This is the back of the vest, I didn't straighten out the bottom.


The crop top and welted pants: I wound up doing all the button holes and the snap for the greeblie, make suspenders.
My seamstress did everything else. This is the front shot:

This is the back shot:

I couldn't see the seamstress on saturday, to make sure that the flaps patterning is fixed. They are a bit too long right now and would otherwise run into the chestplating. As you can see, the vest is too puffy, big, and she will be taking that in. So that susequencially, it will be a tighter fit. If you have anymore critiques now, speak now, please. Other than helping my seamstress, I am going to fiddle with my with my webpages, and that's about it for the next two weeks as far as costume building, I need a two week break. Burning the candle at both ends for D'c was worthit, but took it's toll on me. I will respond to pms/emails, I just meant as far as costume building.

Saw the seamstress today, she fixed the flaps and made the pattern base smaller on the bottom, so that it would not be puffy anymore. Yeah! So, the patterns are done. Doh! I forgot to ask her what the dimensions are for leather purchasing.

Zam I Am wrote:
SDoh! I forgot to ask her what the dimensions are for leather purchasing.

Okay ZIA - you're fired! :p *Just kidding... just kidding!*

Finally got the amount from my seamstress:

The footage for the vest as follows:
(cut 1) Back 23" long x 22" wide
(cut 2) Front 23" long x 13.5" wide
(cut 1) Back Facing 23" long x 22" wide
2 of the 4 flap pcs can be cut from the center of the
facing piece
(cut 2) Front Facing 23 long x 13.5 wide
1 flap pc can be cut from the center of each facing:

We made the cumberbun from the same type of skins, so it's about 9" x 22" plus 9" x 15.5"

I just got some 1/8 eyelets, darn no wonder you guys thought they looked too small they look tiny LOL. Everyone confirmed they were 1/8 tho right? There isnt a post somewhere else saying they are bigger? *prays* lol

Becareful, I think that 1/8" is the inner diameter...It's been too long... and stop zooming so much on your Reference pics

Thanx for the help!!! I measured them just and they do seem to be 1/8 on the inside unless my eyes really have gone and im reading it all wrong hehe! They do seem small though, must stare at the reference pics some more!!!

Be careful on the eyelets.... sewing eyelets should be 1/8" If you pick up eyelets at a craft store (like for scrapbooking) they should be 3/16" ! For some reason they measure them differently. (1/8" craft eyelets are itty-bitty). They really aren't THAT small ...

Originally Posted by Zam I Am

I got all of these pieces on Sunday. So please don't critique them until after dragon con. We did our best this weekend to put everything together.
Well, The vest got done, and the under bodice and welted pants are done. Things Zam I Ain't and I had to do ourselves: Resew the top flaps of the vest, glue down the facings, restuff the shoulderpads, paint, cut out the hose connector holes, reinforce the backing, put eyelets in, lace up. My seamstress did all the other sewing stuff on the vest.
Sorry, I forgot to ask her for the leather dimentions again. arg... Welp, here it is. This is the front of course.

This is the back of the vest, I didn't straighten out the bottom.


The crop top and welted pants: I wound up doing all the button holes and the snap for the greeblie, make suspenders.
My seamstress did everything else. This is the front shot:

This is the back shot:

Hi ZIA...would you please try to fix the images of your vest? It would be helpful for me...thanks a lot

Sorry, I don't have time to fix all the links... everyone has been bugging me, but I just don't have that kind of time right now. It's last on my list of things to do I am really really sorry.

So .... these eyelets lol - Sorry guys. Is the inside measurement of the hole 1/8?

im thinking they may actually be bigger...the leather worker i spoke to and showed the photos of the vest to said there is no way they are the smaller size...he said at least 1/4 inch eyelets...not sure if ones you get from leather shops measure differently but the 1/8 inch ones there were very small...you would need over 12 just to go up one side and if im not mistaken there is only 9...the only other "vest" reference i can state is my mototcycle vest that has the same lacing on the side...it also uses 1/4 inch eyelets and there are 7 on my vest and the arm pit area is a lot more exposed than the one one the zam vest...easily allowing 2 more eyelets to complete the side...

The ones I have are 1/4" on the outside with a 3/16" opening on the inside.

The pictures that ZIA has that aren't showing up basically show the different colors that we found including copper (shiny copper), nickel and an antiqued gold. I don't have copies of those pics or I'd put them up...

Hope this helps (as far as scaling and color is concerned):

Anyone know wha paints in which colors were for the vest?

This is where I have a difference of opinion with most everyone I think... Yeah I'm a rebel! I'm not painting my vest... I'm dyeing it! I'm using the same dyes I used for the skirt (though the quantiities are VERY different ).

You can of course paint the vest - just use leather paint - You'll need to make your own mix of colors though. I don't know the brands out there or what colors you'll need.

Interestin MM! Have you bought the white leather and are you going to dye that or are you doing it some other way? Be very interested to hear how youre going to do it as id raher use the skirt dyes on the vest too but ive already got the white pigskin and im worried the dye wont "stick" to it.

Yep. I bought the leather and everything. I made a cumberbund this way (I wasn't happy with the way it turned out though I compared the colors to the FIDM Zam and it wasn't even close - so I'm re-doing it )

Dyeing the white pigskin does work! Because it is white. (Doesn't work on darker colors ) I think it will help that I washed the skins in the Fels-Naptha this time (which does make it easier to sew as well). But like I said above, the color combination for the white pigskin is totally different than for the skirt squares and requires a lot more tweeking ... Mine came out too purply-blue. But, when I sealed it with the Super-Sheen (I'll Use the Satin-Sheen next time) - I think it looked nice (except for my color mistake and sewing mistakes) I Don't know how well the color will wear with time I'm sure it will be fine for several months/a year? - But I figure I can always re-dye it? My messed up cumberbun still looks fine and I made it 2 years ago. Though of course it wasn't worn.

Just looking at the photos and seeing the real vest - it didn't look painted to me. It looked like it was dyed that color - a custom job no doubt. This is the closest I can come to doing that I think.