Making the skirt

All those getting laces, make sure they are veg tannd or natural latigo laces. NOT predyed purple suede. The suede laces are not strong enough.

-cris

I hope to make the skirt myself, I have taken the photos to a guy near me who does leather and he gave me some pointers on making the skirt. He said that you can fold thin leather in Half and glue it to give the thick look and feel than getting thick leather to start with. He also said that the leather is probably painted differant colors instead of dyeing it several shades or getting differant colors. On the 12" Zam, the skirt apears to have a TON of squares cut out to make it up. Pictures look like the squares are far fewer. Does anyone know the correct number of squares will be needed? The skirt also apears to tapper up, and curves a little around the waits to give it that flare look.

It's 11 wide by 12 tall "square" pieces?

Do you see how it turns a bit on the left side? I think that it's 15x12 with possible 13th under the belt.Equals 180 or 195. I think that they just lace some of the top row to the belt for easier changing of clothes. I wish we had a more accurate count before holloween. I still have yet to get the leather and stuff.
Wookie, are you still doing the skirt stuff? I know you have been busy. Let me/us know how things are goin...

i think you may be right...



i don't think it goes beyond 15 though... i appears that that is the final edge (look how the laces loop out).

You're so visually cool man...
I see the laces. My hubby saved that pic.

DCB:

I agree with the count. 14 0r 15 x 12, but if they are all exactly the same width and doi not get progressively larger, than the pics would not look like they do nor would it hang straight up and down when you wrap it.

I've been sitting back watching everyone add their info on the skirt. I haven't been too amped about doing anything yet because if DCB can get a true count on the squares and maybe some measurements, then we are in better shape. I have the perfect process to get the thing made and should be fairly inexpensive (less than $100 for the pieces for sure or I won't do it). If anyone is just dying toi have this, I can pursue based on current info but it will cost more to do.

Wookie,
I think you are definately right, those squares to get larger as they go down. Just take a ruler to the pic above and measure out the difference between square 1 on the horizontal line and square 8 on the same top row. square 1=2.3cm and square 8=1.7cm. So proportionately, they get wider as they come down. I wish we could mathmatically calculate how many inches each square actually is.
DCB, I wish that you could hook up with someone with a computer down there. I guess we gotta put in our requests early. hehehe. Hope you can see if the skirt connects to the cumberbun and how many cuts the cumberbun has on it. I know that there are hooks on one side tieing it together, but is it the same on the other side? ETC.ETC..

I'll practically stake my life that that skirt does not attach to the cumberbund directly. It would pull it down and hang funny. I dyded a belt and attached directly to it for mine.

Dan

it appears to me that there is a piece under the skirt to help it flare out when it's hanging flat- i'm going to use the word bustle for a lack of better words... maybe this is part of the flair going on with the skirt...

~Maryanne

dan-

Attaching the skirt to the belt seems to make the most sense. Looking at pics of the cumberbund, you can tell that it laces together under the holster. The laces wouldnt be strong enough to hold up that holster, and it would be VERY uncomfortable. I'd assume that the holster is hung from your "underbelt" as well as the skirt...

~Maryanne

DCB- now that yer' back what is the accurate skirt square count? And are most of the squares dark purple?

I went to the leather shop today, and we decided on 16 across and 12 down, because the height of the squares stay constant (I thought they get bigger, but the height of ea square has to extend to the holes of the one overlapping it), but depending on how big one's waist is, you may need an extra row across. We measured at 1 1/4" across per square up at the top four rows, and 2" at the bottom four rows to give it the flare. So, you have about a 1/4" enlarging progression widthwize of the squares every four rows. Lacing is really hard to come by in that color. And, if you buy natural leather and dye it, you run the risk of it falling apart really quick, because the leather is not very strong. I am going to order a tandy catalog, you all should too. I brought my life size stand up to him and he said it looks like a 7-8 oz natural leather dyed. I was trying to get him to explain the difference between veg tanned and natural. Natural is weaker but takes in a lot more dye. I will be trying to decide if I can have the guy dye the veg tanned leather or natural leather.
Wookie, I believe you said veg tanned leather, is there a reason why you went with veg tanned instead of natural? Or, if anyone can help in this leather dept?

*imagines zam i am carrying around her Zam life-size stand-up all around* Man... I need to get one of those!

So - it's just the width that changes progressivly down the length of the skirt? Right? Makes sense to me.

The question on the lace... getting a strong lace to match the color of the skirt looks difficult as well. If the lace can't be dyed - can it be painted?

I'm not familiar with 'natural'. It has to be tanned. There are only two processes that I am aware of:

veg tanned (toolable, workable, moldable, dyeable)
Chrome tanned (drum dyed during the process)

I agree with 7-8 ounce, but it needs to be loose, not stiff.

Tandy is cheap but I have not had much luck with them in understanding my requests. Try Siegel of California. Ask for a sample so you can feel it, tug on it, etc. It's not just the look. I used 7-8 ounce standard oakside (oak bark veg tanned) and it looked perfect. It did not move the way I wanted it to, though.

OK - As for the progression, I have a pattern that is easily adjusted to the correct number of blocks with the same height and progressive width. 16 x 12. No problem. You basically have to figure out the angle that it falls and work from that. I think it was between 1 and 2 degrees for my riginal pattern.

This is what I mean by dimensions. Of course, it overlaps like roofing, but you get the picture. People will also be different waist sizes, so you have to adjust accordingly like an 1/8th of an inch per square wide etc, or add a column. I will ask the guy, "why not veg tanned instead of natural" next time I go there. I think I already asked him that, but he said veg tanned doesn't soak up as much dye and doesn't take the dye as well as natural does. Natural is untanned leather the "raw" stuff.

**Edit,** I actually think that it would be good to insert 3 inbetween measurements in exchange for three of the rows. For example, take out the last row of 1 1/4" and insert 1 3/8". Take out the last row fo 1 1/2" and insert 1 5/8"; and take out the last row of 1 3/4": and insert 1 7/8" This would make a better progression down. So, there won't be 4" gaps between row changes.

Kim used everything the same as Dan. He was very kind in offering lots of advice and info! Veg Tanned leather from Siegel of California. There was no problem with the dye soaking in.

She did however attatch the skirt directly to the underbelt that the cumberbund is built up on, so the cumberbund and skirt go on as one piece that laces up at the side by the holster.

It doesn't really pull it down since it sits at her waist and is laced REALLY tight.

-cris

Do they have a website?

this should be it.

http://www.siegelofca.com/

-cris

Wow, talk about having to choose the right animal! (I don't see dem naughahydes...) Everything seems to be veg or chrome tanned. I have to talk to the leather guy first and lug my stand up over there again. I would rather go with veg tanned than natural.. but I wanna make sure that is indeed the right stuff to use. He actually said that i might wanna go with kangaroo leather for the laces.

Wow, the laces are 1/4" and so are the slots that they are inserted into, so I was looking for slotted punchers, and I think that this is the one for the skirt. Tandy didn't carry it. So I checked out siegle: Tell me what cha think, should we go with 3/8" or 1/4"?
http://syvtsiegel.siegelofca.com/html/punch02.html

WOW- nice find there Z I knew there HAD to be a slot punch out there I'm not sure what size to get - i'd have to measure when i get home...

Man, my right hand is still sore from cutting the 9 oz skirt leather with leather shears! I bought the pro strap cutter, but Tandy sold it to me where the darned blades didn't fit! Tandy should really should talk to their strap cutter manufacturer. So I returned it. The wooden one might work for me, since, this is going to be a one time use sorta thing. Gotta check the blades again Going there AGAIN on saturday (it's a 1 hr drive,and this will be my 3rd time goin), lugging my cardboard cut out this time to check out the right dyes to use. I thought I was going to have Ron (the leather guy) cut everything for me, but, I want to make sure that I get to maximize the use outta the hides I bought, for myself. And, acquiring leather tools is more expensive than hiring out someone to do the job, but hey, there's always a chance to re-sell em on ebay. So, the only cost would be my own labor cost. We'll see.

Ok, I am dumb, I bought the pro strap cutter thinking that the screws had to fit through the holes of the razor blades, but they dont. The razor blade just fits between the four screws and is clamped tight, not the screwed in. So I bought the cheaper wooden one to save money.

Anycow, this is what was told me by a leather professional.
Use the strap cutter to cut your belts 2 inches high. Then cut them what ever width you need to. Then mix your purple dye with solvent (to make it lighter)or any other colors that consitute the purple you want. Let the dye dry, buff extra dye off with cheese cloth.If it needs to be darker buff off some of the dried dye and use a bobbing brush to apply another coat of dye. Let the dye dry again. Warm up Neatsfoot oil in a pan (do NOT boil) just warm it up. (It allows the oil to seep further into your leather making it more waterproof) Then, take your dried dyed leather and put it in the oil. You will see some air bubbles come out of your leather, this is a good sign that the oils are worked into the leather. After a while, take it out and set it to dry. Your leather will look darker at first, but after it dries it will go back to the original color. Then put sealant a light coat of leather balm with atom wax. If you want more sealant put it a coat at a time.

Edit** I changed my skirt pattern up top yesterday and also cut all my skirt pieces. I hope to order the puncher soon

I re-edited my skirt pattern: and have pics of what it looks like. Here goes





Edit** also a 6.5" radius of a circle worth lace yields about 46.5 feet worth of lace, if you cut it right. It's really hard to make sure that it's all one piece of lace,It's easy to slip with the lace tool and cut a really thin strip. There are probably knots somewhere on the back side of the skirt to tie the laces together, then again, they probably hired the best lace cutters or sumthing and made it all one long lace piece. I seriously don't know how much yardage or feet of lace it takes to lace the skirt. Anyone have any ideas?

Kim knotted together about 3 long laces I think. Take my advice- lace it REALLY tight. I spent over an hour re-lacing the entire skirt because it was so heavy that all of the laces sagged and there were huge gaps between the squares.

-cris

Did you have the store bought stuff or did you make the laces yourselves? And, you don't know about how long those laces were, eh? My laces are veg tanned and will be dyed and sealed hopefully, that will give it some more strength. I am afraid wearing it alot, the laces will start stretching and start sagging the skirt later too. oh well, if I have to relace, I gotta relace. Do you guys have the method on how to lace this stinker up? I see that they have double loops in the holes.

In the pic on the reply above (on 10/3/02) by DCB, what is hanging between the skirt and her body?

lol....Well, maybe she DID have some "bottom" issues while shooting the film....lol Sorry to rehash. I did not see those posts....

Hey no prob, I just thought the guys would be chiming in right about now, saying what a nice "bottom" leanna has...

Oblong 1/4" holepunchers for the skirt- I found a distributor in my area, they are going to have them and the price on them is $26.55. Call o.s.osbourne co., (973) 483-3232 then tell them you want oblong hole puncher 1/4" by 5/64" and need a distributor in your area. Then call that distributor near you and order one. Then you can take a look to see if that's the right one for you. If you need a special sized oblong punch call 314-968-3991. The distributor near me is looking for prices right now. Online, it's pretty expensive plus shipping. So, just letting you know. I am going with a tandy polyhead mallet and the darker, durable cutting board. Ouchie 16x12x4=768 holes! We'll see how it goes.

Knc, or Wookie,
So, how long do you think that the skirt laces are, approximately 60 ft. long?

Honestly I don't remember Maybe 15-20 ft? It pretty much has to snake up and down every row- so take those measurments and add maybe a third more to get close? You can make your own laces with a little tool that cuts a spiral path into a small square piece of your leftover leather. This is what the guy at the leather store did to make Kim's laces.

edit:
In looking at the close up pic on the first page of this thread, I think it may be at least double this, since I think we only had 1 vertcal lace per square and it looks like there are 2 per square an that photo.

-cris

I was guessing at 85 something feet. 2 inch squares, 2 laces each on the back side, 15x12 squares, the cross hatches (does that mean there is lacing going across as well as up and down?) so 12 more rows of 20-30 inches across (average 25). (2x2x15x12)+(25x12)=1020" =85 feet. Does that sound feasable or too much? I dont' want to waste valuable leather, ya know? I already cut half of that amount and this lace cutting is difficult. It's easy to slip and just cut a really short piece by accident.

that sounds reasonable. I get about 60 ft in vertical stitching alone.

-ck

Thanks Cutting the laces for yourself is nice, but getting it evenly cut so that it won't snap apart when wearing it seems to be the problem. I wish I could minimize the number of strips that I have to use too. I cant seem to cut one long enuff without slipping and the lace winding up a short 9 feet, instead of one continuous 1/4" lace. Grrr, wish I had better skills, I have already felt like I have wasted my hide. 5 strips so far. I guess there will have to be at least 5 knots in the back. Any hints on how to lace it? Should I start across first? or up and down? I am trying a test run at work using little napkin squares hope no one sees me and thinks I am nuts.

This is my best interpretation of how i figured it to be.... (at least in the middle ones - the end ones are different)...

this way - you only need short strips - and they can all end at the top of the skirt - that gets hidden by the cummerbund...

gotta LOVE the scout master... that looks perfect! Then, there is no wasted lacing going across! It is just vertical stitching. AWESOME! I can throw my napkin squares away now so, its only 15 or 16 squares across, times 12 or 13 rows, times 2 laces at 2" ea. So, being generous, 16x13x2x2"=832"=69.3 feet. Cool! Oh, btw, since it's laced differently on the sides. It sorta seems weird, cause it confusing trying to understand where it would tie up at the top. Got another rendition of how the sides are laced?

does this make sense¿

Dustin Crops Boy wrote: Does this make sense¿

I just had to put these side by side to tell...
It looks like they started at the bottom somehow and laced up according to how it overlaps, but I can't see where they tied it off on the end of the outermost/last square of the skirt. My photo viewing program stinks on my work comp, so maybe I just need to zoom in at home

Well, here's my lace test

Problem with the oz weight I have for the lace, it might be too big to do a double snake lacing. I don't know if dyeing it and sealing it would relax the leather a little. In the pics, it looks straight in the back, my leather is always bowed because of how stiff it is right now. I might just make my holes wider to fit 2 laces on each side. THat might be the ticket First I will try dying the lace, then I will see how it falls before punching another 12x15 skirt squares chock full of oblong holes.

that lace looks WAY too thick...IMO. I'd make new lace - if i were you. Otherwise none of it will lay right and you'll never be able to double it up.

That is a 4-5 oz. lace. You mean it should be 2-3oz? If you get a free tandy catalog, you will understand what I mean by oz. It actually means thickness. THe higher the oz, the thicker the hide is. Problem is 2-3 oz might be too thin, like it could snap too easily, then you'd have to re-lace the whole thing? LMK what you think. Do you know if Dying and conditioning might relax the laces up a bit? If worse comes to worse, I could single strand snake lace it like KnC said earlier, just to have one ready for D'c then upgrade later. But I will check if they have lighter oz. hides next week.

i don't think youll have a problem w/ thinner lace. There is so much of it - spread throughout the skirt - that each square has very little pressure on it.. and the lace won't snap.

Thanks

cryin crying crying whatever you do, don't seal your skirt with neatsfoot oil. @#$@#$#@ I dunked half of my skirt squares into that stuff and it changed the color. It's almost dark brown now. That guy told me wrong. Some supposed "master leather maker" didn't warn me it would change color so much. So, now, in order to match color, I would have to cut all those pieces, (i think i dipped like 5 rows)ARRRGGG, hole punch them and spray dye them AGAIN!!!! Why didn't I just test one measley piece? ARRRGG!!! I have never felt so dumb in my life right about now. I so feel like quitting right about now. God help me...

No No No...Don't quit!!
You'll get it figured out.. I'm sorry you have to re-do them Is it necessary to seal them? I suppose it'll prevent purple prints of the costume wherever you sit? What else would you use?

I dunno, I was researching something called atom wax that I bought cause that "master leather maker" guy told me to. I looked it up on the net and it said a lot of people use that to seal. The neatsfoot oil is used to kind of seal it first. But i don't like neatsfoot oil at all! It changed all the color on my skirt and my house smelled like really old nasty bacon for several hours. I know two pieces were cooked a little too long. But regardless, we're going to pray that the sun comes out for several days and dries some of it up.Zam I Aint thinks it might help, but man, that oil's really cooked in there. I am going to cut up more squares in the mean time. I really think it's not salvageable. On the bottle, it said it may darken colors, but man! I didn't think it would be THAT dark. Whatever you do, don't use neatsfoot oil to pre-seal it. Use something else, I know that they have alternatives. Look up atom wax and see if you can find a better "process". I would go with the ideas that are praised the most. Goes to show how I am always doing things trial by fire most of the time. Only this time I didn't "test" like I usually do. Please learn from my mistakes yall.

Ok, here is a little "process" to get yall started, I just don't know how to seal it.

First, you cut 2" strips (all squares are 2"tall)


Next you cut the squares (width varies from 2" and less)


Then you punch the holes out, and spray dye to look like thus:


DO NOT** ADD REGULAR NEATSFOOT OIL LIKE THIS PIC. BIG MESS!!! UGH! Squares are too dark, lace is all ******...

Looks like a big puzzle!

Did you end up making the whole punches bigger than you originally had?

i cut and hole punched all my squares today. In total - it probably took me 4 hours total (192 squares x 4 holes each = 768 holes ).

i have to find some leather for the lace and get me some dye. I think I might make some sort of belt to attach the skirt to that will hide under the cummerbund. i was thinking of possibly punching a row of holes along the bottom edge of the belt and tie the loose ends from each column of lace into these holes. This will hold it quite well and all be hidden...

Oh - and i used a much thinner leather then Yvonne did. Mine is a 3-4 oz. - which i believe to be closer to the actual movie skirt. (Yvonne picked a 7-8 oz. for hers) . If you make it too thick - it will not only be way heavy and a pain to cut/punch - it will be stiff and not "flow" very well. Zam's skirt squares buckle and conform around her curves and you can see the thickness in the cardboard cutout - it's quite thinner then it may appear to be at first glance.

:p I will compromise and say 6-7 oz, but no less according to the cut out (it measures at .11 of an inch thickness on the cutout, 7oz.=7/64" or .109 of an inch). I don't think it's 3-4 oz thin only cause I really do think it was uncomfortable and heavy. Thus, the butt pillows. And, 7 oz still can conform a little to one's curves. For comfort, 5-6 would be cool, cause actually, it would be a bit lighter to handle and wouldnt drag down as much. Cause, a belt underneath the cumberbun is totally necessary for it to stay on her anyway. Just my ramblings. Hey the thinner it is, the lighter it is. So whatever you feel is better ie, thickness vs. mobility go fer it.

here's my idea for how to attach the skirt...

i'm making a belt (1.5" thick) and notching holes along the bottom:



then each time I am at the top with a lace - i'll go through one of the belt holes - then back down a row of squares, etc...

the belt will then be hidden by the cummerbund. This way - each colum of squares will have equal support.

oh, on the real thing, the last column of holes wasn't hooked on a belt, are you going to leave that off too?

it could have been hooked on the last ones - but the strapping is perhaps loose - allowing it to hang lower then the cummerbund. I don't think they would have NOT hooked the last square to something.

Ok, mini tutorial, after you cut all your squares like in the pics above, "punch" the oblong holes with a poly mallet, poly cutting board on top of cement or a marble block like this-(of course, you wouldn't have dyed the squares until after you punched the holes)

Then you airbrush dye it.
Ok-- here's how you seal it. You use either super sheen (in a spray) or airbrush resolene. ( I airbrushed resolene)Let dry, then you put leather balm with atom wax last with a sponge, let dry. Then buff. That seals it all nice. This is the stuff from tandy:


For the lace, you cut it, dye it, put NON DARKENING NEATSFOOT OIL aka LEXOL. I used a cup full of the stuff and just pulled the lace under a wrench to keep it dipped in the cup, then I used a cheese cloth to wipe it. This causes it to be pliable. Then you airbrush resolene, then leather balm it, then buff with a cheese cloth. I cut out a large piece of card board and wrapped the lace around it, then i did the sealing. More coverage area. Now all I gotta do is lace the skirt...
This is a pic of a lacing needle, you screw the leather clockwise into the needle for it to attatch. Then you lace.

My leather got stuck into the hole and didn't come out, so i used these pliers instead.

After using Dallas' diagrams above, I laced half of the skirt. Here is the front

here is the back:

lookin' good zam i am!!!!

That's lookin great!!

Wow!!! That's looking terrific!!!! Can't wait to see the finished product in person!

Ok, I just finished the skirt and there is a problem houston... It's really stiff. I either:
#1, should have dunked the pieces in non darkening neatsfoot oil

edit* #2 Should put some other type of conditioner (for finished leather) on it

#3 used some type of leather that isn't so thick, like dallas' 4 oz. (which I cringe to admit)

I think I will try #2 before admitting defeat...

Does it hang properly? Can you wear it?

Would loosening the lacing help any? How about just working the leather a bit - piece by piece?

No... no defeat not yet...

I edited the previous post by me, you can't put veg tanned leather in a dryer, it will be ruined. Chrome tanned leather you can though to tumble it to make it softer.

Anyway, here are my skirt pics, man, I feel like i am wearing a hoop skirt or like a peacock!




Anycow, the ebinger guy said use some stuff from the shoe/cobbler store that makes leather more "conditioned" and pliable. I really liked the loosenng lace, idea, but I have already cut the lace per column to 62" ugh...

It will loosen up as you wear it

-cris

Somehow, I am totally wrong, or there's something i am NOT seeing... Where's the daggone belt? How is the skirt attatched? Pic#4280 zoomed...now you guys tell me, where is the freakin belt?

I have no idea.
While we're at it, what the heck is this:



edit: nevermind...I think it's holding the gauntlet up on the mannequin...sorry!!

Moncal, I think your pic shows little "luggage" tags, so that the people at the MOM know which part goes to what...

Zam I Am wrote:
#3 used some type of leather that isn't so thick, like dallas' 4 oz. (which I cringe to admit)

ZAI never listens to me

Anyway.. how come yer skirt looks so short¿ is it riding up too high on yer hips¿ How is the overall height compared to the standup¿

oK, the stand up and mine have a 3/4" difference in overall height. The reason mine is wider looking too, is cause I got a big 'ol butt, and I added another column of squares. I am thinking I might just take that column off, because it does look fat and funky...Oh, and that 3/4"-- so cut yer squares on the taller end, like more on 2 1/8" side. But 3/4" isn't all that bad... I am a half inch shorter than leanna anyway. Wish I could lose the weight, but my seamstress would kill me cause of alteration problems.

*glances at Zam standee* Hmmm... Seems being a Clawdite has it's advantages... you can give yourself a small butt! One thing I know... I won't be needing that blasted butt-cushion!

ZIA - Try taking off that extra column from the skirt, I think it's making it hang funny actually - by making the skirt go too far around your hips. As far as length... it looks a little short to me too. On the standee, the skirt goes down to the bottom of the back of her knees... it's hard to tell on your pics, but it looks shorter than that. Can you lower the belt to wrap more around your hips rather than your waist?

Overall I still think it looks terrific ZIA... the colors and effect are perfect. Now you're just down to the details... where the devil is!

MaulMaus wrote:

Overall I still think it looks terrific ZIA... the colors and effect are perfect. Now you're just down to the details... where the devil is!

What? I am the detail devil? Eh? Huh?

Well I took a column off and it does look lots better, but you see, I have dunlap's disease... My belly dun' lapped' o'er my belt...Waist? what waist? I got a big butt and i do not lie... So for all you skinny people out there, you would appreciate my dimentions on the skirt for leanna a lot more. They would definately fit someone of Leanna's size lots better.

I did forget to mention, the colors look great! Did you mix up a few different shades or did the leather accept the dye differently from piece to piece?....or both?

The dyes... where do i start.... Ok, I used the formula that I said above somewhere. That was the PERFECT color... Then Jim airbrushed it. He did the best job. Cause, airbrushing, you can make em lighter and darker. Then my grubby hands came into the picture. I ruined 6 rows with the wrong neatsfoot oil- then I recut all the squares, repunched all the holes, and then mixed another batch of dye...Whoops, a few more drops of red fell in by accident.... So then I had to re-airbrush EVERYTHING... and unfortunately, my hand at airbrushing isn't as good as Zam I Aint's so, everything, is more even colored then non-even. I tried doing it non-even, but I couldn't do it cause of the two batches scenario. So, make sure, you make 2 quarts of the same batch of dye. LOTS OF SOLVENT.

Zam I Am wrote:
[What? I am the detail devil? Eh? Huh?

No...no..no.... The devil is in the details!

Though... you do have a devilish eye for details! Which is a good thing when it comes to the costume!

Just FYI....

I found an online source for the 1/4" oblong punch....

http://www.montanaleather.com

And the specific link is...

http://www.montanaleather.com/osbornepuches.htm

I ordered one - will let everyone know when I receive it.

Whew, at first I thought that you were going to get something other than osbourne #151. You still have to really really struggle to pull that lace through, it took me such a long time. I stayed up till 2 AM everynight this past week. Dang blasted lacing! Oh, if you wanna get it cheaper and save on shipping follow the directions I mentioned above about calling the osbourne company and finding a place near you to get it. I think I got mine for like $27.00.

Zam I Am wrote:
You still have to really really struggle to pull that lace through, it took me such a long time. I stayed up till 2 AM everynight this past week. Dang blasted lacing!

Hmm... maybe I should've gotten the larger one then... *sighs* Oh well... What type of leather did you end up using for the lacing? 2-3 oz?

Too late on the punch... I'll just wait for it. Less hassle than trying to return it and all... probably wouldn't save enough when all was said and done to make it worth it now.

Darth Pootle!! Welcome! Are you the same Darth Pootle as on the DMEB2 boards?

Ah yes. It's me! Who else would want this stupid name?! Hiya MM!

I'm hoping I can get hold of leather and tools from a friend of mine that does saddlery repair. She has wholesale catalogues, so maybe I can buy leather cheaper through her. Was the best weight for the skirt decided upon? 5-6oz, or heavier? I think lighter leather would 'flow' better and not put too much strain on the laces. My poor hands aren't looking forward to all that lacing!

Thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately, anything that changes leather color will freak me out. Any other suggestions?

Zam I Am wrote:
Unfortunately, anything that changes leather color will freak me out. Any other suggestions?

Quite understandable! Neatsfoot Oil is good but I find it too hard to apply, being as it is so runny. It makes application unprecise and it gets everywhere. (I'm sure you've learnt that already!) It's excellant for nourishing dry leather though and would be my personal choice after ko-cho-line.

My preference is still with the pink goo though!

Maulmaus, Nope, you got the right one baby... The skirt puncher is definately the right size, it's a matter of width. If you needed one with a larger width, you'd have to custom order it. Believe me, too much trouble. The 1/4th inch slotted punch is fine. Leather work is just that-- work! So lacing will always be a problem. Definately 1 oz- 2oz. leather though for the lace, any more than that, and you'd have killed me.

Dunked squares, instead of airbrush a possibility: look at how dye dripped to the bottom of the square...

Zam I Am wrote:
Dunked squares, instead of airbrush a possibility: look at how dye dripped to the bottom of the square...

Could that be leather conditioner or sealer instead of dye?

The skirt pieces might have been dunked though... I'm sure it's faster than airbrushing all those durned squares! I was going to try dunking them (just to try it) and also wool daubers before I get out the airbrush.

It's definately not wool daubers. Cause wool daubers cause "streak" like applications, and are harder to "even out". Dauber application isn't as even as dunking or airbrushing. The sealers wouldn't cause those marks. Sealers act like clear coat paint.Some are really shiney and some are less. Resolene is a less shiny sealer than supersheen. They dont really darken things unless you have lacquer in it. Or some kind of coloring producer. Like, if you had darkening neatsfoot oil conditioner then yeh, it could do that. But, it wouldn't make sense to condition just a "part" of a square. It looks like "over-dyeing" residue, settling to the bottom of the square. Then they just sealed it all. Oh, and it might be a double dunk. (dunk, dry, dunk) When you take it out the first time, the dye seems to spread to the outter most edges first if it's layed flat on the rough side. So, if you tilt it up and let the dye run all the way to the bottom, that might be the right effect (for those few squares).

Maulmaus wrote:

Quote:
Actually, have the greebs half painted. Just details and a final fixative on all but one... which hasn't been touched yet! However, have all the rest of the parts and materials for the skirt (lacing, etc) assembled and ready for production... and the veil/hood thingy as well. Parts for the holster are ready to go... The rifle has been disassembled and is awaiting paint, etc.

Nothing picture worthy yet though... *sighs*

All zam pics are worthy...
C'mon!!! gotta see the progress! woohoo! Oh, Maulmaus.. You assembled the skirt already? or did you just cut the skirt squares and lace already? ie, what did you mean "assembled and ready for production" Did you use real pig suede for the veil? And, how is your holster comming along? You know how to wetform it right?

Whoa there ZIA!!

Gotta get through the Holidays in one piece here... *sanity is in question at this point in time! *

Got all the leather ready to go... got all the materials needed to cut/form/color/dye the leather ready to go... got all the pieces to stick/paste/glue/rivet/weld/pray into place... But nothing else!

Pig suede.. yeah.. got it. Very soft, though it feels a bit thick to me...

Re: wetforming... haven't a clue. I was gonna go through the boards here again *I could swear it was explained somewhere on here before* and post any questions before I went ahead and made it. Just not that far along yet... only have the leather and dyes right now.

So actually.... all I could take pictures of are piles of leather, a couple shelves full of half painted greebs, materials and tools (and some SW Lego toys! ) and the lovely helmet that DCB made!

Ahhh, I see... Hey you are several steps closer! Congrats! Remember, before you cut the skirtsquares, make sure they are a bit bigger than 2" tall, or else it will be short looking like mine. I would venture to say 2 1/8" tall each. Oh, you should take a pic of the pig suede! let us see!

But I've been a good girl ... I have!

Cut my hide... cutting the hide so to speak! Have about 2/3 of the skirt squares cut and should get the rest done this week. Hope to get all the holes punched in the squares next weekend.. then I can start dyeing the whole lot!

Okay.. and ZIA... I have a couple of questions on the belt..(the visible one... not the one holding the skirt up)... Did you have a pattern for it? And what weight leather did you use for it? How is it attached to the "real" belt?

Ummm are you talking about the cumberbund?

Yep... that's the name I was looking for! *doh*

See what I mean... I'm a slacker!

I'll find another thread for the cumberbun comments, but I would like to know how tall the squares were that you cut for your skirt. I can't seem to find what I mentioned after all the events I recently went to. I honestly don't know how tall they should be. I just made a guesstimate, cause my whole skirt ended up a tad short in the comparison shots.

I made mine 2 1/4" tall. I think you said you'd make them 2 1/8" tall if you were to do it again. I measured how long I wanted the skirt to be on me... and divided it up (rounding it out of course!). I figure if it's a little on the long side, I can just tie it higher on my waist... if it's too short, I guess I'll add another short row on the top and hide it under the cumberbun.

Just make sure your laces are longer for each column to adjust. Start off with more slack. Oh, and use lots of slack when you lace it all up. That's the only way to make sure it flows and isn't as "solid" as mine. And, have an extra row of pieces. I cut all my laces off before I could change anything, and you would have re-dye matching problems if you dont have an extra row and extra long laces. Once you cut/dye/seal everything, you don't want to have to go through that trouble again! So, make sure you cut laces extra long, and, an extra row etc. I actually laid the pieces out on the floor then rolled myself on the floor to match where it would hit on the sides of my hip. Like a pig in mud

maulmaus wrote

Quote:Do you have any tips or tricks that you use when you cut the lace?
What lace-cutter do you use? I must be doing something wrong, as I
can't get more than about 6 inches before it breaks off. Or do I just
need to practice? Do you start with a small hole in the center of the
piece or is a larger hole easier to start with?

I used a black lace cutter like the one in the tandy catalog. Then I cut a hole in the middle of my hide and aiming the blade at the hide, I cut from inside out going clockwise. It's hard to get started, but with enough practice, it gets easier. Sometimes tugging on the back end of the lace while you cut helps. Make sure to check your blade, I tried for an hour once, cause I didn't realize the blade had chipped. If it chips, replace it, or you will have small starts of leather lace all over the place. Oh! and there will be lotsa leather shavings Sorry dallas! (That's one of the messes I left at his house before I came home. ) Oh and the hole that you start with should be about the size of a quarter.

Zam I Am wrote:
It's hard to get started, but with enough practice, it gets easier. Sometimes tugging on the back end of the lace while you cut helps. Make sure to check your blade, I tried for an hour once, cause I didn't realize the blade had chipped. If it chips, replace it, or you will have small starts of leather lace all over the place.

Okay.... gotta get some replacement blades I think.. and practice...practice...practice... *ugh!*

Thanks!

Awww im tired lol - trying to do any math when youre tired and havent done math for 8 years is evil!

I'm trying to work out how much leather i will need to make the skirt. I have written down how many squares of each size i need and with my super math powers i have concluded ... I need help! LOL

Looking at the size of a skirt i dont think im gonna be needing the equivalent of a football pitch in leather - oooh my superior math powers - move over Steven Hawking ***

Next question is about the thonging - when youre cutting your leather you want the shiney smooth side to be the 1/4 side? If i cut in spirals how do i make it straight - does it even need to be straight?! lol

Thanx for the help - i need sleep! lol .... 65 square feeet sheesh im useless