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Obviously, there are 16 black boot hooks on a four ribbed cumberbun. I don't have a pattern, but as long as your cumberbund isn't taller than 4" all the laces will fit. I used the same leather as the vest leather and airbrush painted it. Unfortunately, we have to repaint mine a different color, sigh, after 12 tries, the color still didn't match. Biggest problem is that the color when wet is NOT the same color when dried. :rolleyes
What did you airbrush it with? Createx paints or a dye or????
:)
yep, just like the vest, createx paints.
Okay... so each rib on the cumberbun is about 1" high? And it's split into two parts.. right? Front and back, held together by the hooks/lacing? Are the two parts 1/2 and 1/2 or (as it looks in the pics) more like 2/3 and 1/3? *Honestly, I don't remember how you had it on your costume ZIA!*
How did you attach the "real" belt to the cumberbun? Or are they not really attached?
Belts are NOT attatched. Two cumberbun portions from the front side hip to the middle of the back and from back to the side (where the holster is). Edit** OOops, yeah, like 1/3 and 2/3 The only thing holding em together is the lace and the boot hooks.
Got that from the vest pattern thread... You have to measure yourself from like 1-2 inches forward from your right side seam. That's where the first cumberbund end is. The second cumberbund ends in the middle back - spine.Quote:
Zam I Am wrote:
We made the cumberbun from the same type of skins, so it's about 9" x 22" plus 9" x 15.5"
??? Okay... seems a strange way to make a cumberbund to me... but who am I to say? ;)Quote:
Zam I Am wrote:
You have to measure yourself from like 1-2 inches forward from your right side seam. That's where the first cumberbund end is. The second cumberbund ends in the middle back - spine.
Another question... those are the finished dimensions? So I need to add seam allowances? How wide are each of those 4 "rows" 1 1/4" or so?
I guess the extra inch of the 9" x ??inch (instead of 8' x ?? inch) are the seam allowances, so the ribs are still at 1" I can't remember! doh!
After stuffing and sewing the cumberbun, it should only be about 3 1/4 inch tall.
ive searched the threads and can not find anyhting describing the belt construction...any help?
Nope... :lol You gotta make it up yourself! Mwahahahaaa!!
I've been trying to figure it out.. my first attempt didn't work so well... Looking over the Ref Pics, I did see that there are seams at the top and bottom of the cumberbund as well as inbetween the ribs. If that helps any?
I'll be working on this after C4. When I do, I'll post my pain... okay! :lol
i was actually thinking of making a pocket..turn it inside out and put some badding inside...then stitch the three stitches to make up the four ribs...the shoe ties...is that like speed laces on boots or is it just regular lace gromets like the vest? and the belt is actually three pieces right? one tie in the back and one under the holster? four eye holes or speed lacers per edge?
shouldnt be too hard to make once the details are in...i read somewhere its about 3 1/2 inches high after its done?
They are black lacers like on ice skates or hiking boots (Not gromets or eyelets). Cumberbund is 2 pieces somewhere between 1/3 - 2/3 and 1/4 and 3/4 sizes. One piece starts at the middle of the back and wraps on the right to the holster. The other piece wraps the rest of the way and has an eyelet smack dab in the middle of the belly, in the middle of the ribbing.
Everything is hard to make it seems LOL
Why didnt your first one come out so good MM? *hoping i can learn from any prior attempt lol* :)
The colors I dyed it weren't right... Not at all. That's the problem with purple/lavender. It can be so tricky to get the right color combo. :doh I also didn't wash the sheepskin in the naptha wash like MonCal has suggested (I did this before his suggestion came up!) and it was very slippery to work with. My seams weren't the straightest :lol
I've also come to the realization I need to practice something before I "make" it... Learned this the expensive way. ;)
Use a plastic bag when putting in the foam. Then it will "stay" instead of bunch. Use easy pre-drawn lines on paper to sew through, so that your lines will be straight, and you can crease and tear it away. Chopsticks and a yard stick are a sewing help! It's nice to poke the cumberbund to invert it. Use acetone to take off the finish of the white lambskin, so that your airbrush paint will stay and not crack. Use finish like resolene after the paint. (I didn't use naptha soap for anything... so it's a good alternative for the naptha, is my guess?)
I've already washed and prepared this sheepskin and cut out the pattern ( I'ts a rectangle for cryin' out loud :lol ) for cumberbund 2.0 already - Just waiting to get back from C4 to get to work on my own costume for a change! (I'm up to here with Padme's and Jedi's! :lol :lol )
sounds good guys (gals), good tips there too...i inadvertently stated three sections...not sure where i was getting that from my description of one tie in the back and one by the holster, but oh well:lol:lol
good idea with the plastic bag zia...does it sound crinkly when you walk around or is it unnoticable? and i figured the speed lacers was what it was...i assume those are easily found at tandy or somewhere similar. I havnt decided on leather paint (airbrushed) versus dye...i like the paint because you can test, test, test on scrap in small sections until you get the color you want...then when you airbrush it you can go as heavy with the color as you like...it seems the belt is much more color permeated than the vest...the vest has a much more worn down look and it's evident that it was painted not dyed, im guessing the belt was done the same way
Foam? In the cumberbund? I used really thick cords; actually, they are the cords that my daughter wore hanging around her neck when she graduated from college. Minus the tassels, of course. They were plenty long enough and I laid them between the inside and outside pieces of cumberbund and just stitched between them.
Of course, nothing I did is the "right way". I stitched the skirt right to the cumberbund instead of to a belt. There's enough layers on this thing to begin with, and I'm not one of those who enjoys spending more time getting into costume than wearing it. Plus I don't need any more thickness of ANYTHING around my waist! Plus, of course, I didn't realize that I wasn't doing it the right way....
Not sure this is helpful...sorry...
Oops, forgot to mention, you have to take the plastic bag out. It's only so that you can get your foam in even, otherwize, it will bunch no matter what you do. That's the hardest part, getting everything even. (that's if you decide to do it the pocket method where the last seam is by the holster.)I think that you can just sew it - last seam where the last stitch is on the bottom of the cumberbund and you woulnd't have to worry about the plastic. I debated this with DCB, cause there are pics to support both methods. I also have a feeling that they backed the cumberbund with a leather piece so that it wouldn't collapse under the weight of the greeblies etc. But I have no supporting evidence for it and didn't have a chance to do it myself on my own. Kinda like the jango girth belts with the laced leather. It's backed by a piece of leather.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDFett
And no, you have to go to a boot repair shop with special "installers" to get those type of boot hooks, and get them installed, tandy doesn't carry them. I just put a spacer and hammered the heck outta mine and added glued them to make sure they stayed, after making it flower out.
Actually, it's nice to hear about alternate methods to achieve a similar look. That's cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by zamgram
I made the smaller part for Becky a day or two ago. Hard work!
I noticed the ref pics have an inverted seam on the front (were they bth meet by the holster) and I have shot of Zam's back (catwalk shots plus one more behind the scenes) that show that this "sock" is then turned inside out again, sewn and closed up at the rear of the belt. My guess is their thinking was the hooks and lace will cover up the seam.
Makes sense and the only way to make it work. Unless I'm wrong someone please tell me how it's done.
In short, the front facing seams (by the holster) are made inside out to hde them. Then the rear seams are sewn as normal from the outside and hid by the hooks lace.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...ummberbund.jpg
This is being done again as I made it about an inch too short anyway. Fool!!!
Oh and wetting the leather with a mist spray helps the airbrush paint soak into the cracks.
Stretch the material before measuring and marking your lines as this stuff is like elastic. (White pig skin)
you are so not kidding...i washed mine with the fels naptha soap and then stretched it onto my deck and stapled it down...then let it dry...it ended up feeling like paper...very strange..and was easier to sew but once you pulled it it came right back to being super stretch!..tough stuff to sew and handle for sure....
im not really sure im following you on the seam thing...i was going to just make two sections...sew the three sides, flip it right side out...put the bading inside then stitxh the ribs and then fold the last end into itself and run a stitch down to close it? not sure what you mean about the facing seams ect...
that sounds like a good idea..putting the leather piece behind it...i also like the idea of sewing the bottom seam last...makes some sense to me...Quote:
Originally Posted by Zam I Am
as far as the boot hooks...im not real familiar with the way they look but it sounds like you were able to find a way to get it done without someone else doing it for you?
Yep. I had two cumberbunds made. One cumberbund had a professional do the boot hooks and the other didn't. The second one I used the method mentioned above and finished my cumberbund last minute before d'con because the sewing and painting turned out better than the first, but the boot hooks weren't installed as good, but hey, it works still. I went through a ton of boot hooks trying to get them to stay, but it's been 3+? years and they are still holding up. Yay!
found a possible option for the boot hooks...
http://www.steffanleather.com/
they sell them by the dozen and they appear to be sew on....im not sure of the size but they are only $6 USD for the dozen...may be a good alternative
where did you get your boot hooks from ZamIam?
I've stumbled across a wonderful material that will help us fellow Zam seamstresses make the various Zam parts, far far easier.... :)
Seen as pig skin is stretchy it's a bugger to sew with, right? Not anymore...
If you iron on heat activated cotton glue sheets to this inside of the pig skin, this helps LOADS!
It doesn't spoil anything, just helps to stop the pig skin stretching under your needle and over time.
Don't leave the iron on too long as the skin wrinkles up and shrinks
Check this out...
Basic length, plus mock up of belt that fits Becky
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSCF1605.jpg
After ironing the cotton onto the pig skin strip
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSCF1606.jpg
Trim it all away
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSCF1608.jpg
Leaves you with a little pig skin, cotton pocket
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSCF1609.jpg
Far easier to mark out now as it won't lose it's shape.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSCF1610.jpg
And then you can add quilting like this
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSCF1611.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSCF1612.jpg
Hope this helps someone :)
Very cool! Thanks for the link JDFett! I bought some (from England might I add!) - but now can't find the things... ;) That's what happens when I re-organize!
John - I don't know if I've ever seen that here in the states... kind of like a stabilizer I assume. Iron-on interfacing? Does the needle get gummed up when you sew with it?
Yes, yes yes. That's it!! Iron on interfacing. I remember what it's called now. The lady in shop did say and remeber that term going way over my head but she said it would do what I wanted.
No it doesn't get gummed up at all. The glue dries as it cools and sticks to the internal nap of the pig skin really well. I've flown through the belt, second time round. Will post pictures tomorrow. I'm off to bed
Oh yeah and the best match I've seen for Zam's boot hooks are called J91, military by YKK. The zip folk
http://www.ykksnap-america.com/boot_...BootHooks.html
These things look spot on to me
http://www.ykksnap-america.com/boot_hooks/603hook.gif
If anyone over in the States finds these, please spare me and Becky a thought :)
i saw those too...but you need a setter for them and thats just added cost for something that isnt really seen when together...the other sew on boot hooks are nice cause they are for one sew on...no setter needed and you wont see the sew on part after its laced...not sure how big they are though
I think that I saw those same ones wayyy back when...and, yes, much more accurate. :thumbsup I contemplated getting a box, but instead, I got mine from a local boot place that does custom leather boots. I tried to get them to make the zam shoe but they wouldn't, because it wasn't thier type of boot. Then I asked them about the boot hooks, and she said, "I am sorry I can't help you any more, you lucked out, we just had some from a discontinued run," and stuffed a scrap of leather and some boot hooks in a bag, and said "good luck." She was really really nice. I wished I could've given her more business, but the fact was it wasn't plausible. Cowboy boots wouldn't equal zam boots.Quote:
Originally Posted by sl/tk8456
I couldn't find those things... I've looked and looked and looked. I've found someone to set them - but they don't carry them and won't order them. :( Right now, I'm not caring if they are sew-ons or set-ins as long as they are "hooks" !!! Yep.. I'm getting desperate! :D :lol I know I put them someplace! *gads... someday I'm gonna get organized!*
do the set ins basacally work similar to a snap set without the back piece? I wonder how much force is really needed to set them without a tool...
got em!!!
ok who wants some? :)
I spoke to YKK here in the UK today and our military use them for their MODs boots etc :)
The guy is sending me samples in the post
I'll get several, more than I need, some if they are right, they must be, and someone wants some, please ask
Ta
why if you have 16 extra...i could use a return favor on the gloves;)
Understood dude. Let's see how the pan out when they arrive. They look 100% spot to me anywayQuote:
Originally Posted by JDFett
You've got the right ones John! No question!!! You could go to a shoe repair place (the correct name eludes me at the moment - feeling blonde :lol ) and they should be able to set the hooks for you in the finished cumberbund!
Over here we call them cobblers ;). Yeah good idea. However the chap on the phone did say that they sell a little tool, much like you get when yu hammer press studs through things, that's really cheap. He said you do need a tool but good news it's cheap :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MaulMaus
Made by YKK, in the states they're called J91, over here M34 :rolleyes