saint nasty's asok helmet ear cap and rf tutorial.

Mike M.

Well-Known Hunter
Community Staff
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i've noticed there are a lot of people asking lately how to attach the earcap to the helmet and the rf to the stalk; whether they've pm'd me directly or asked in a thread. so i'm here to help out with that, and show off how i do this.

first off, i usually do this part after i've pained the helmet and the earcap. you have to be a little more gentle with it when you do it that way, but it's do-able. if you're not comfortable waiting until that stage to drill through your helmet you can also do it at an earlier stage, but just make sure the earcap has been cleaned up at least.

so i start with the back of the ear cap and i bore out two sink holes with the Dremel 9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter, make them just large enough to sink the head of a flat head 6-32 x 3/4" machine screw into. you don't have to go too deep, probably less than 1/8", just get in there deep enough so that the angled edge of the head isn't above the plane of the ear. once you have those placed i use 5 minute epoxy to hold them in.

like so -
DSC02214.jpg


next i eyeball line it up on the helmet and use the screws to scratch into the paint where i'll need to drill. i think i used a 1/4" bit, i drilled out the spots i scratched with the screws. line the holes up with the screws and see if it sets right in. if it does, AWESOME!!! if it doesn't, then get your dremel out again and use that bit i suggested to bore out the hole a little bit in the direction you need it to go to get the screw sitting in there right.

DSC02215.jpg


then once the ear sits all nice and pretty you attach it on the inside with a #10 washer and a 6-32 acorn nut (my preference is for the brass, but you can get them in stainless).

DSC02216.jpg
 
now to attach the rf to the stalk. i like to make sure it's not going anywhere, so i attach it with hardware, and using screws is screen accurate.

so i accomplish this with a couple of really tiny screws. i want to say 5-64 x 1/2, but i can't remember exactly (i'll update this information soon, since i'll have to get some more to finish all these helmets i'm working on). you'll also have to get a set of dremel drill bits and a keyless chuck, because the standard collet that comes with most dremels can't squeeze down on such small bits. i don't remember what the number is on this particular set of bits is but it has drill bits from 1/32" through 1/8".

so i put the stalk in this tiny vice that i have, though if you don't have access to that you can use a pair of vice grips or slip jaw pliers and a friend to hold it steady (if you have to do it that way, make sure you're on a surface you can drill into. now drill two holes through the cross beam of the stalk, one kind of in the armpit and one a little further out. to help with seating of the screws you're going to want to get a larger bit out (7/64" or 1/8" even) and drill into the holes just a little bit so that the head can seat into the stalk. that'll help out later on when you have to grind the heads flush.

once you have those holes set you're going to line it up on your rf top where you want it to sit. hold the stalk in place and use the drill bit to mark the spots on the rf for the screws to go into. if you want you can drill into the rf through the stalk so the angle of the holes match up perfectly.

then take your little screws and slowly screw them into place, take your time with it though because they'll be cutting new threads for themselves so i highly recommend buying an extra screw just for that purpose of cutting threads. once the threads are cut take the screw out put a little dab of ca glue on the holes of the rf itself and a little dab on each screw too and get them back in there. once the glue sets those screws aren't coming back out. and finally, get your dremel out with a grinding wheel and try to grind the heads of the screws flush.

and this is what it should look like when it's done

DSC02213.jpg
 
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Thats great ive been puting mine of until i had a tryed and proven method thanx for that
 
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I took a guess and mounted my RF exactly the same way you have, Yay to me! :D

one question, how do you mount the rear slotted panel in the back of the helmet? I was going to Bondo mine in place but if there is a removable method I would love to hear about it.

Cheers mate
Trav
 
as i get a little further along with these builds i'll post an asok helmet keyslot tutorial soon.
 
Whilst your at it could you thro in a pic off the inside of the visor idd like to see how you cut the shpe in the face shiled and mounted that sucker
 
i should probably bump this back up, since someone will likely ask about it again.
 
Put some jelly or syrup on this post cause it should definitely be sticky! :D I was wondering this very thing with my Asok CC bucket. Thanks
 
yes, this thread is VERY handy for people completing an Asok helmet :)

My addition to this... the flat head 6-32 x 3/4" you mentioned in the first post were too long, so I had to space with some regular nuts below the acorn caps... maybe this was because mine is a fiberglass Asok and it might be thinner :confused
 
if they are too long go with the 1/2", or cut the 3/4" down to size with your dremel.
 
Yeah, I might cut them eventually, but there is enough room in there even with the extra space between the edge... which leads me to believe the fiberglass is thinner than the resin version; since I can also fit a fan and have room in my helmet :)
 
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