Anyone got good pics of the buckles on his holsters?
Discussion on Official Thread - Holster and Ammo Belt within the Jango Fett Costume forum, part of the Star Wars Prequel Trilogy Bounty Hunters category; Anyone got good pics of the buckles on his holsters?
Anyone got good pics of the buckles on his holsters?
I havn't seen any real good pics, but from what I did see, it looks like they used D-rings and leather bands instead of buckles. That's what I went with.
I used D-rings on the center part that goes through the cod piece & leather belt keepers on the inside leg extensions. The leather strap is held in place by these things. I think they may be called post hole keepers but I am not 100% sure. Anyway, they push through the hole and are threaded to fasten the strap securely. I also used these on the holster and where the rear strap meets the belt so they swivel & are not locked in place like they would have if I had used rivets.
Where did you get those BBToys?
You can buy them at a Saddlery & Tack shop. It was hard for me to find plain ones, most have a shamrock design stamped on them.
You can also get them at Home Depot or Lowes in the fastener section.They come in several different sizes.I think they are calle "Aluminum post screws".They come in handy for alot of things.
These ones are nickle plated or stainless steel, not sure which.
Was in Home Depot today & these things are called 'Chicago Screws'. The ones they had were aluminum like Pantera had said.
There is a leather glue available that I have used in the past. It works pretty good and I think is only $3.99. Here is a link.
I used it for my pouches but am not sure how well it would hold up on the actual holster though. Worth a shot if you don't have access to a leather sewing machine.
In another thread there was talk of using the rubies holster as a template. I have yet to see these in person so I don't know how accurate they are. I may pick up a set just for that purpose, at least it will give you some type of base to start. Anybody got these already?
I was also thinking of making the pouches one large container great place to store Radio shacks voice amp and other things. I don't know if that is possible but it was a good thought.
Don't be afraid to break up the radio shack amp. The housing is probably a little too big for the pouches, but you can easily take the cover off. Then you can place the amp in one pouch, the speaker in another (just extend the cable).
This may sound trivial, but how does everyone attatch the little metal part on the gun belt (the one that connects to the two straps from the holsters) to the cod? I have used industrial Velcro because I want to keep the pieces separate. The obvious way is to bolt or rivet the metal piece to the cod; but anyone have suggestions on a way to make them not so "perminent"?
On my new belt, I made the connector plate with an extra long backing plate that gets screwed to the belt. I used chicago screws for a finished look & they are hidden in the inside middle pocket.
If your making belts/holsters, you need to go with a saddle weight leather, no less than 10 oz. Can't help ya with the templates yet tho. The rubies holsters may provide a decent template. If anyone has em, seam rip'em, scan em, and let us have em.
Where did you get the ball stud closures? And you wouldn't happen to have a pattern for the holsters would ya?
I found the ball stud closures at Heritan Leather which used to be affiliated with Tandy, so you could try Tandy. I don't have a holster pattern. Each component is slightly different from one to the next due to the irregularities present in a natural material. Just form your holster to fit a 1 1/2" dia dowel & cut to length depending on the type of the pistols you use.
It may not be a heavy enough weightfor the true realist, but a good source of cheap leather which is relatively easy to work with is to hit the thrift stores, and look for a leather coat which is the right shade of brown. If you can't find the exact shade, you can get close enough and change the color with shoe polish. I got two coats- a longish brown one which supplied more than enough leather for the pouches, belts, and holsters; and a charcoal grey one which I cut and restitched into a vest. They were $4.99 each.
Just wanted to correct an earlier post I made about leather weights for the holsters. Go for 8-9 oz. The 10 is too heavy.. I got a bit mixed up. IT's been awhile since I worked with leather.
I have a question for anyone who thinks they can help out. That little silver piece in the front of the belt that the holster belts connect to just below the braided belt. Any suggestions on how to make it?
3/4 " pvc cut at angles on each side...
I love this place...... Do you attach it to the cod at all or just let it ummmm...flop around? I hope no one jumps into the middle of this conversation.
It is part of the gun belt, I have seen some armor-makers on eBay that have it attached to the cod piece and that is incorrect.
I guess the pvc would work if you split it in half and mount it to something flat that extends behind the belt.. I'm still open to suggestions.
I used a aluminum shingle from home depot- .39 cents! I cut it to shape with metal shears, folded it over making the bottom piece longer and attatched it to the belt. its metal and looks good. works too!
I made my own Boba belt, which was pretty easy, it took a few nights to get it right, but was well worth it. I'm also going to make my own for my Jango, and on the upside, it should be easier (except for the holsters). Jango has 7 pouches with no stiching and rounded ends. The pouches are 13" long 2 1/2" wide strips of cowhide. They wrap around the 3" wide belt blank till they are 4" high, and only the two end pouches have any kind of sides to them.
Find a Tandy leather store, get some hide, dye, and some tools to smooth out the edges and your set. All that should be less than $100.
Actually, all of the pouches have sides to them. They is just a little bit of an inward curvature that makes them hard to see.
I made mine to... from scratch.. and of course the referrance photos on the net... (lots on that link of over 1000 images) I built mine of Sintra for the little boxes.... and I bought some Leatherett that looks pretty dead on for leather. Wrapped the stuff around the boxes... and I went to the second hand store.. bought some belts.. that were the same size... Joined the two.. to make it a bigger belt.. and also wrapped leatherett around that so it matches the boxes. I didn't make my boxes open.. that to me was gonna be a little bit more work then I was wanting to do.. Anyway.. all turned out great.. very pleased with it.. So I'll have some finished photos of my mannequin in a few days or week or two... just finishing little things up on it. Good luck.. and like Boba Phat said.. its pretty easy and sure is well worth it.. of all the money you would save from buying it...
Thanx alot for the input. I am very interested in seeing the final product.Mykull, I am guessing you used the 1/8 inch sintra? Let me know when you get a chance.
I think I used the size just up from 1/8... of Sintra.. forget what it is.. but its thicker... now you can still use 1/8, it would be lighter for sure.. but I just thought that the thickness would come into factor when it was been worn... so that if it gets knocked or something... it would be a little more stronger then the 1/8, can could with hold a bit of abuse.... But hey its up to you of course.. just my 2 cents... I'll be posting images reeeeeaaaalllll soon..
i made mine from brown vinyl i got from walmart, for like 3 bucks, for 3 yards...it was on sell...Hancocks or Joanns always has it in stock...
you wouldnt happen to have a pattern for that?
i actually used the one from OB1s Academy, but altered it for jango.... www.obiwansjediacademy.com
search for Studs
So I should get the Button Post studs, not the Rivet Button studs?
I believe they're all the same.. They have the same item # anyway
make sure to order the setter also. you WILL need it.
The button studs that I use are attached with a screw, no setter needed.
I think I'll use the ones with the setter, I've used the same kinda thing for buttons on my costume and they work nice, besides, I'm putting these in some thick foam that I'm weathering up and got to look like leather, I think the rivets will work better.
The prop palace sells the holster for $135, and they look alright but I was wondering if anyone had bought one from them, and do the Rubies blasters fit in them.
I don't have the one from the Prop Palace, but I have heard lots of bad things about them as a whole. In fact, back in the day (Oh- alllll the way back in MAY!) I ordered one from them- never got it. After almost two months I told them to cancel and refund my money. By then I had one from Biggerkid. I just got the V2.0 one of his- its PERFECT! It fits my Rubies pistols great as well as my Metal Westars.
If you want to save money, go with Rubies. They are good for the price. But if you are going to spend the bigger doe- go with one from Biggerkid.
I purchased one from them. It's nice, had to add some more holes in the belt even though I sent them measurements. It's not %100 accurate, but it will do for now. The rubies blasters fit perfect in them. nice and snug, almost like it was made for them.
Alright, I know some of the different methods that people like Seeker have used to give their ammo belts and stuff look weathered. But, I was wondering if anyone has tried just light sanding on leather for a rougher look? I want to give my ammo belt and my holster belt a little bit of a worn look.
Anyone tried this yet?
Actually i have done just that whojedi. I've been messing around with sandpaper and going crazy lately with it. The more pics i see of jangos belt and see how torn and weathered it looks. The more i go towards that way. I'll get some more shots of it today. check this one out for now.
I know that you did some of them by painting first and then sanding, but did you just sand the one in your picture? It looks good.
What type of sandpaper are you using?
I have lightly sanded the surface using 400 grit or finer & it just takes off the finish. It will then accept some lighter dye to highlight the worn areas. You could also water down some acrylic paint & airbrush too to add some staining & wear effects.
yeah not just sandpaper. To get that look, you would need a darker leather. Mine just happen to be really light. Thats why I had to dye it, then spray paint it, then weather it with acrylics - then spray again.
This picture is the total of everything that I have done to my belt. the lighter stuff is from the sandpaper. I used 600 and all kinds. You should go with 600 and if it doesnt do justice for you, then keep going harder up.
I wish that i had a darker leather. but in my mind i always thougth of dyeing it. then weathering.
hope this helps.
BKBT and Seeker, both of those tips should help alot. Since mine is a darker leather, I am going to try just sanding first on some of the hidden parts of the gun belt to test it. If that works well, I will do the whole thing and then see if I need to add some paint or dye work.
Does anyone know where I can find these in stores? Not online?
Try a leather shop or someone that sells horse gear, saddles, straps, etc. Other than that, I have not found anything close inmy travels.
I've bought mine from www.theleatherfactory.com and didn't use the setter. I used a adjustible wrench. They ones that can me moved by adjusting the notches. Not the ones with the winding thing that adjusts the height slowly. I've opened it up a little bit and clapped it shut. It worked perfectly. I guess you just have know what kind of wrench im talking about. I tried to find a picture of it online but can't seem to find it. Sorry.
Redoing my holsters and straps for my new metal Westars's
I just need to dye them and weather them. And get the edges of the hoslter sewn - then trim.
Were did you get the Leather. I want to make my owe holster set but i don't want to buy a whole side of a cow.
Yes yes, where did you get it? Why is it white like that? And how the heck do you form it like that to make the actual holsters for the guns, I dont know how so Im just using the [arts from the rubies holsters and gluing leather on those.
I bought the leather from the www.leatherfactory.com they sell pieces of belly leather wich is not dyed yet. Nice and thick.
The holsters were cut out of wood - then wet formed the leather to follow the shape of it.
Was the leather bend over a shaped piece of wood or into one? Just get it wet and hold in place for a while? I know nothing about leatherworking...
What you do is soak the leather, and it gets a little flimsy. You can then stretch it over your master shape and let it dry overnight.
Clamp the edges in place I assume? I searched around that site for leather as well, and they have very many sections, couldnt find belly leather. Do you recall what it is called and what section it is in?
I stapled the sections until dryed.
I go to the warehouse - I'm not sure if they have it online.
Dude you live near chicago right? check out the warehouse address. it might be near you.
I just need to dye them and weather them. And get the edges of the hoslter sewn - then trim.
I eventually plan to tackle this myself, would a normal sewing machine work through that type other leather or is something special needed? **** we need a tut man! :p
Probably not. There is some areas wich are really thick and you will need a heavy duty sewing machine. I have 3 thick layers in some areas.
but you could sew 2 thin layers of leather with a regular sewing machine. You will need leather needles.
Are those free moving swivel hinges on the upper back pieces to the belt so they can move? Also, how did you attach the straps to the back of the holster pieces? Sorry for all the question :p
The areas connected to the top waist belt are attached by snaps.
The upper straps that connect to the top of the holsters are attached via swivel rivets.
The lower straps that go around your leg are gonna be sewn in to the back of holsters.
I thought I remember hearing about a tool to stitch leather...or was that just to cut strips? I don't have a sewing machine so I need an alternative (or a new friend with one ).
You can hand sew the leather by first poking the holes into the leather with an awl. I plan on just gluing them together, just like the ammo pouches. That's how the real suit is. There's just 4 little stitches or so at the top edges.
Just need to dye it now.
Check the first post for all the pics together in progress!!
GO TEAM JANGO!! :p
The bottom picture is to compare old with the new.
Here you go, as promised!
I resized it down to 25% of the original size. So, what..I guess if you enlarge it to 400%, you should have normal size? It should JUST fit on a size of legal paper.
The side was just traced from one of the pouches, you'll need to form the bottom part. The top can be as wide as you want it to be, it'll be folded inside when you close the pouch.
I'll be picking up some more leather tomorrow to start making more of these suckers.
As soon as I get the accurate measurement from the general here for the Boba pouches, then I'll be able to make a set of THOSE. The OJA templates stink! They're too small! No offense to anyone...
Thanks for templates!!
How do you attach the sides??? Is sewing involved?
The sides are done by wet forming and rubber cement.
Here's some more pics with girt-belt and pouches. The girth belt was made by Sith_Camaro
Finally, pictures of my belts, not scans! The holsters are Seeker's, I hadn't started mine yet when I took the picts. I need to re-work the wood forms we're using, because they're still a little roomie for the resin blasters we've got. Seeker just likes to rush sometimes.. I'm waiting to get my metal blasters before I actually finish mine. Just want to get THE perfect fit!
I have been busy lately updating my patterns. This is my latest version of my gunbelts & I think they are totally screen accurate. The working pouches now slide on the belt & have full leather gussets with the correct reinforcement stitch. The aluminum connector plate has been totally refabricated to be more accurate with the correct brass D-rings. The holsters have been bonded with industrial adhesive with the correct reinforcement stitch.
Everything has been custom dyed & antiqued to give it that old used look.
Many hours have gone into this & no detail or cost has been spared. And all that leather smells so good! This makes a perfect addition to my full leather flak vest, matching helmet gasket, & braided leather belt.
I think I have some leather left over to do another one.
PM me for info.
Seems the pics work for some but not others. It also appears that they disappear after awhile. I don't know what the %^$*( is going on but here is the link to view them.
I'm convinced I'M A ACCURATE FREAK!!!! WHY? WHY?
Well after not being that happy with the shape of the firts holsters. I decided to redo the shape again. Plus this time the westars fit snugly.
Could this be the end? thes saga contunies.
Hey, may I ask a question??? Soju and I went out yesterday and picked up some shoe leather at the leather factory...he's given me the job of making his pouch belt, and I feel I have the templates cut just right, but I'm facing a dilemma in glueing on the side pieces. You said that you attached by "wetforming" and rubber cement. Could you give me some pointers regarding wetforming? How long do you soak the leather? Is there any special technique? Do you cement while it's still wet? Thanks for your help!
Well, took a little breather from my Boba pouches, after I got my new guns, and decided that it was about time to perfect my holsters, to match the guns of perfection!
I joined the holster pieces directly to the braided belt, now I've got one less belt to worry about.
The thing I really like about this, is that the guns fit in snug, and won't fall out, even if you turn it upside down.
if anyone would like the ammo pouch template,email me......email@example.com
Working on some major and minor upgrades for Dragon Con. Here's some pics of my new ammo belt that I made (compared to the old) and my holster belt that I made a few changes on so it fit me better and was more screen accurate. Also is a picture of my totally completed MLC jet pack. Special thanks to Mardon, Rex, Vince, Ely, and Arturo for their various contributions. There are a bunch more pics of my pack on my site as well.
If anyone is interested in my old ammo belt, please pm me
Hey what color dye did you use for the new pouch belt?
love that color. it looks honey brown or something.
I used Tandy dark brown- 2 coats (it took way too many coats of just the medium brown on the holster straps to get it dark), then the Tandy medium brown- about 4 coats, then a paper towel with some black acrylic paint and wiped them down. I liked the color too- not so red like the old one. It doesn't exactly match my holsters but it's close enough.
Nice work Mirax.
Are the symbols on your JP decals
or painted on? If decals...where'd
you get 'em?
Those are Vash's decals
For all those that made their own belts:
I need the widths of all the belt blanks and strips for the Jango belts.
Girth Belt - what kind of braidable leather strips did you guys use?
Ammo Belt - what width is the belt blank?
Holster - what width leather strips for all the holster pieces?
Pouches, Holsters - what kind of leather do I get?
I ordered the Rubies Blasters and Holsters set today, and they should be here in 7-10 days. So I'll finally let everyone know what the quality is, etc.
anyone yet to know the quality of the rubies holsters??
I got the Rubie's holsters today. They're pretty good, in terms of durability and size. They are separated into 3 pieces.
1- the belt that goes around the waist.
2- the right holster
3- the left holster
The belt that goes around the waist has two velcro straps hanging off the sides (about the outside of your thigh, let's call them A), where you velcro the holsters to. It also has the little silver part of the codpiece in front, with two metal loops on either end (call it B).
The holsters have 3 straps coming off them. One attachs to the strap hanging off the main belt (A) with velcro, the other loops through one of the metal loops (B), and fastens with velcro. The third strap is a thin one that goes around your thigh, it's about half-an-inch wide, and fastens with velcro.
Size-wise, the waist belt is actually pretty big. I'm a size 36 waist and it could go comfortably bigger than that. I'd guess 40. It fastens with velcro. The fastener for the thigh, on the bottom of the holster, is a bit snug on my thigh (then again, I have big legs), but should work for everybody.
The material is a vinyl, and is pretty solid, just needs to be re-painted. I'm saying a couple coats of spray paint, some shoe polish, etc.
Everything fastening with velcro is a bit lame, so, I'd suggest either fastening it with the velcro, then sewing it together to fortify the connection, or somehow installing your own buckles/loops to connect it another way.
I would post pictures, but, my camera is out of action.
Oh, the blasters that come with it are very nice. The tip is bright orange, and needs to be painted, but, other than that, really nice job on them.
I'll give you information as I get it, folks.
I'm a relative newb around these parts, so maybe this question has already been answered, but where do you buy leather? I've tried the leatherfactory.com, but all their pics seem to be dead at this point.
Also, what kind of leather do you need for Jango's holsters, belts, straps, pouches, etc.?
Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Looks like they just changed their site layout. I bet they will have pics soon. In the meantime, try www.tandyleather.com - they are both owned by the same company.
Thanks, Mirax! Great site!
What kind of leather would be best? Rawhide? Top Grain? Based on the description, "Tanners Select Chap Side Brown" seems good, but it doesn't have a photo. Leather seems pretty expensive, so I want to make sure I get the right one!
You're welcome. I believe what I bought for my pouches is the single shoulder 4-5oz. here: http://www.tandyleather.com/products...3&pagenumber=4
Very little waste on that piece, and a nice size. Can easily make 2 sets of pouches. Could cut straps for the holsters from it. It has a nice look to it and a good weight.
Hate to pester you again, Mirax, but what color dye do you think would be best? I'm leading toward dark brown which can be found here:
The item I'm looking at is "Fiebings Pro Oil Dye Quart Dk Brn #211102".
I used the Tandy dyes. I used medium and dark brown and liked the medium better, but it takes lots of coats!
A quick question for the leather workers out there. Do I weather my leather then seal it, or do I seal it then weather it? Didn't want to mess this one up.
Depends on what your weathering. I wouldnt seal my holsters. it would look toooooo shiny. but if you're doing a belt to wear with a pair of pants, then seal that.
Yup, I didn't seal any of my stuff. Weather the heck out of it- sandpaper is great!
The way I shaped mine was easy.
I cut the basic shape for the inside (flat part) of the holster and kept it dry. Next cut some big enough to bend around your blaster and wet it. Put your blaster on the dry leather and form your wet around the blaster. Clamp together close to the blaster. I put mine on the shoe rack in my dryer for a bit and they came out great. When it's dry, remove the clamps, glue, stitch and trim. Now you have a holster.
What are the correct dimensions of each of Jango's ammo pouches. Just start thowing me numbers of what yours are if you have them.
Come on! I know at least one of you people has a belt. Don't lie, just give me an estimate of your pouch dimensions
Ok ok, I just went and measured mine. 2 inches wide, 4 inches tall. Now bear in mind, I am only 5'2" and 108 lbs so scale accordingly.