Anyone got good pics of the buckles on his holsters?
Anyone got good pics of the buckles on his holsters?
I havn't seen any real good pics, but from what I did see, it looks like they used D-rings and leather bands instead of buckles. That's what I went with.
I used D-rings on the center part that goes through the cod piece & leather belt keepers on the inside leg extensions. The leather strap is held in place by these things. I think they may be called post hole keepers but I am not 100% sure. Anyway, they push through the hole and are threaded to fasten the strap securely. I also used these on the holster and where the rear strap meets the belt so they swivel & are not locked in place like they would have if I had used rivets.
Where did you get those BBToys?
You can buy them at a Saddlery & Tack shop. It was hard for me to find plain ones, most have a shamrock design stamped on them.
You can also get them at Home Depot or Lowes in the fastener section.They come in several different sizes.I think they are calle "Aluminum post screws".They come in handy for alot of things.
These ones are nickle plated or stainless steel, not sure which.
Was in Home Depot today & these things are called 'Chicago Screws'. The ones they had were aluminum like Pantera had said.
There is a leather glue available that I have used in the past. It works pretty good and I think is only $3.99. Here is a link.
I used it for my pouches but am not sure how well it would hold up on the actual holster though. Worth a shot if you don't have access to a leather sewing machine.
In another thread there was talk of using the rubies holster as a template. I have yet to see these in person so I don't know how accurate they are. I may pick up a set just for that purpose, at least it will give you some type of base to start. Anybody got these already?
I was also thinking of making the pouches one large container great place to store Radio shacks voice amp and other things. I don't know if that is possible but it was a good thought.
Don't be afraid to break up the radio shack amp. The housing is probably a little too big for the pouches, but you can easily take the cover off. Then you can place the amp in one pouch, the speaker in another (just extend the cable).
This may sound trivial, but how does everyone attatch the little metal part on the gun belt (the one that connects to the two straps from the holsters) to the cod? I have used industrial Velcro because I want to keep the pieces separate. The obvious way is to bolt or rivet the metal piece to the cod; but anyone have suggestions on a way to make them not so "perminent"?
On my new belt, I made the connector plate with an extra long backing plate that gets screwed to the belt. I used chicago screws for a finished look & they are hidden in the inside middle pocket.
If your making belts/holsters, you need to go with a saddle weight leather, no less than 10 oz. Can't help ya with the templates yet tho. The rubies holsters may provide a decent template. If anyone has em, seam rip'em, scan em, and let us have em.
Where did you get the ball stud closures? And you wouldn't happen to have a pattern for the holsters would ya?
I found the ball stud closures at Heritan Leather which used to be affiliated with Tandy, so you could try Tandy. I don't have a holster pattern. Each component is slightly different from one to the next due to the irregularities present in a natural material. Just form your holster to fit a 1 1/2" dia dowel & cut to length depending on the type of the pistols you use.
It may not be a heavy enough weightfor the true realist, but a good source of cheap leather which is relatively easy to work with is to hit the thrift stores, and look for a leather coat which is the right shade of brown. If you can't find the exact shade, you can get close enough and change the color with shoe polish. I got two coats- a longish brown one which supplied more than enough leather for the pouches, belts, and holsters; and a charcoal grey one which I cut and restitched into a vest. They were $4.99 each.
Just wanted to correct an earlier post I made about leather weights for the holsters. Go for 8-9 oz. The 10 is too heavy.. I got a bit mixed up. IT's been awhile since I worked with leather.
I have a question for anyone who thinks they can help out. That little silver piece in the front of the belt that the holster belts connect to just below the braided belt. Any suggestions on how to make it?
3/4 " pvc cut at angles on each side...
I love this place...... Do you attach it to the cod at all or just let it ummmm...flop around? I hope no one jumps into the middle of this conversation. :lol
It is part of the gun belt, I have seen some armor-makers on eBay that have it attached to the cod piece and that is incorrect.
I guess the pvc would work if you split it in half and mount it to something flat that extends behind the belt.. I'm still open to suggestions.
I used a aluminum shingle from home depot- .39 cents! I cut it to shape with metal shears, folded it over making the bottom piece longer and attatched it to the belt. its metal and looks good. works too!
I made my own Boba belt, which was pretty easy, it took a few nights to get it right, but was well worth it. I'm also going to make my own for my Jango, and on the upside, it should be easier (except for the holsters). Jango has 7 pouches with no stiching and rounded ends. The pouches are 13" long 2 1/2" wide strips of cowhide. They wrap around the 3" wide belt blank till they are 4" high, and only the two end pouches have any kind of sides to them.
Find a Tandy leather store, get some hide, dye, and some tools to smooth out the edges and your set. All that should be less than $100.