You can get 1000 grit and higher at auto parts stores.
You can get 1000 grit and higher at auto parts stores.
all of my pieces are Rub and buffed at 400 wetsand including the helmet. Do you think i should sand it all off and start over? I'm just concerned I am going to have the same problem i had when i tried to redo the chest piece where it just bubbled, boiled, and spider webbed.
ok, i took some pics to show you guys why i wanted to redo some of the pieces. at first it didnt bother me because it looked weathered and nice, but in a flash photo you can see it looks more uneven and smudgy. I don't know..maybe i have been looking at it too long. What do you all think? I would redo them but not after what i had to deal with on the chest piece.
good ? bad ? ugly ?
does it come across as weathering or just looks like ****?
Last edited by runJEDIrun; Jan 23, 2009 at 11:59 AM.
What did you weather it with? Is it possible to lightly scrape or buff it out? Or does redoing it mean refinishing the whole thing? Maybe you could just Rn'B over it.
I tried to redo one of the pieces (right breast plate) and I had a terrible time trying to re-prime the second time. I guess I'm just trying to see if anyone knows a good way to fix this.
I would resand the whole thing again with 400 sandpaper to get the whole paint off. then then primer it again with rustoleum ligh gray primer.
then sand it again with a 600 grit. then primer it again. then sand it with a 800 grit.
It seems like alot to do but its very much worht the results.
The thing you want to accoplish is to almost have a shinny primmer surface to the rubb and buff to attach on.
Remember when your R&Bing you want to do a whole piece at a time. dont do sections. paste a bunch of dabs all over one piece then rubb it over then press really hard with your hand to generate heat to melt the wax on the the piece.
Remember to work fast. do it like a mad man. thats why you have uneven parts cuz this stuff dries quickly.
ulso dont mind the dull parts. remember that this suit is supposed to be nice and gritty looking.
remember that R&B is a wax and it needs to be melted down to a surface or it wont ever dry. The harder you buff with your hand the better.
sircular motions on every piece.
here's a picture of a well beat up jango chest piece.
see how messy it looks.
thanks seeker! i will give it a try. the hardest part to redo is defintiely going to be the knees and the helmet. I will post pictures to show my progress. thanks a lot man.
I'm sure most primers would work. I prefer using Painter's Touch Grey Primer found at Home Depot...which is coincidentally a Rustoleum line.
Your helmet looks great now. I woulnt touch if i were you.
that's one thing i always notice on some jango, is that that the helmet looks super duper duper duper clean.
I myself have always liked my stuff dirty. That's my personal feeling. I alwasy think of it a dirty cowboy from the western days. those guys live in the dirt and dust only cared for money, drinks, and women.
Just kidding, but yeah.
I'll will be redoing my whole jango again this year. I wanted to look more beat up. You know, some wear and tear.
As far as the primer, I always had really good luck with the rust-oleum verion. it just feels like it has the right thickness for me.
some other ones are thicker and have other ingrients in them. some have spot filler etc..
this is a pic of one of them.
you could buy at any ace or home depot.
yeah i guess i was just worried that if i re did the armor it would be far more shiny than the helmet is now and i didnt want it to look bad. I def like the dirtier look and im sure coming from a sandtrooper to jango didn't help in that dept. haha! i will redo the armor like you said and see how it all looks in the end. thanks guys!
If its too shiny, take some 0000 steel wool to dull it down. I did that with my helmet to match my cold cast gauntlets. Initially the helmet was way too shiny.
ok. sweet. thanks a lot.
Update: I sanded everything down except for the helmet and knees for now (mostly because i don't want to deal with them) and i am still noticing little pock marks in the right breast plate like before. Should i use filler primer for this one piece? or is that going to change the entire finish?
thanks in advance.
Last edited by runJEDIrun; Mar 26, 2008 at 8:31 PM.
pock marks...like orange peel? If it's orange peel I'd use filler primer and sand, filler primer and sand, till it's gone. The more fine you go on sandpaper the shinier it comes out. If they are holes I'd fill them first.
yeah like orange peel. I will pick up filler primer then. thanks man! would this be the correct filler primer? http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDep...ItemNo=FIB+725
That doesnt say it's a filler primer. Dupli-color makes one, says filler primer right on the can. I use DuPont QuickPrime A-4220S acrylic primer. This link might be for the Dupli-color if your shopping at this website.
gotcha. thanks for the help.
i know im late to the party phil...lol but i very lightly sanded all my bkbt armor with 400 grit and that was it...i also did the same with my helmet and my cruzer gauntlets...they all came in with a super slick feel to them out of the box so i only hit the stuff quick with 400.
all my stuff looks pretty good..not too shiney but not dull either...
the rustolium primer for auto is what i redid my helmet with..and still only went to 400 grit and it came out real nice.
also you should consider my R&B weathering technique..it works so much better than arcyllic paints...at least IMO
Dude this is one sick Jango!!
yup...the colors you need is silver leaf for the base armor, which you know...
then do the following steps...
first go around the edges with pewter..this creates the illusion of the silver being worn around the edge...i use a small soft model paint brush for these steps. don't be afraid to come out in a non symetrical pattern to even 1/2 inch in spots. I also went around the "led" area of the chest armor.
after that you use ebony. this has a bit of a different texture to it and you really only need to dab the brush on the top of the tube to get the effect. other wise you get a real dark black look and have to really spread it around to fix it. a little will give the edge on top of the pewter a smoke look. you also want to do these methods to all the creases of the knee armor and around the knee darts....in the creases or "low areas" of the helmet...where the dirt would normally collect.
once you get the ebony down...use spanish copper to create the rusty appearance. i usually keep this to the areas where there would be water collection, in deep cracks and the inside edges of the gauntlets, helmet, knees, ect. a small amount can be spread around gingerly on top of the ebony and it looks good even on the chest pieces. inside the led area.
it take a bit to get the feel...but after your first piece...i would recomment you knee so you can get the feel for it before you go to the chest, youll get it. it's not that hard to do and it drys solid. you can get it off if you dont like it but its much more permanant than acryllics. once totally dry its stay on. ive also found that "chunks" of the spanish copper and heavy spot give it a bit of 3D rust look in cracks...adds to the realism. and that too will eventually dry and be pretty solid where it is.
ive also noticed on some screen shots that the vest has some brownish dirty stains on it by the chest and shoulder area. i used some of the spanish copper for those areas of the vest too...just dry brush it with the brush with very little R&B on it.
let me know if you need any thing else.
thanks JD, you da man! i will definitely try that once i get the silver leaf on. thanks a lot!
Everything is looking great!! But be sure to paint the tips of your Westars bronze, I just now noticed that! Keep up the good work, you'll make an awesome Jango.
After talking to Seeker for a while about weathering and stuff, I decided to re work my helmet. Now I'm satisfied with it i think. I'm sure it will never be totally done.
now to redo the armor!