My Jango Progress

paint first...then be sure to mask it real well and put the r and b on....that stuff gets everywhere so be sure it is totally dry and set up and your hands are clean before taking the tape off the painted areas.

The Rustoleum Royal Blue I am pretty sure I picked up at Home Depot.

I R&B'd mine first, masking off the edges of the areas that were to be painted later on and had no problem. When it came to apply the paint, use quality paint tape and take some of the tackiness off the tape by sticking it to a clean cloth first then place it on the R&B'd areas to be protected.

Almost forgot, now that I see what you are trying to primer...you are'nt using that beverage in the green bottle for the liquid are you? Although it's a low end primer you're using, I've had success with it. I would sand down the ear giving it a good scratch coat into the old paint. Then give it a scrubbing with something like acetone to remove any old solvents, release, or waxes that might have been on the part.

Rustoleum Royal Blue - I think I found mine at Wal-Mart...don't hold me to that, but it's worth a try.

Very nice cleanup on that helmet! I can't wait to see the finished results.

hey guys, where are you all finding your rub n buff? i searched the michaels website but didn't get any hits. i found some on ebay i could order though. will one tube do a whole helmet? or should i get two?

One tube should do your helmet and armor...you need a really really tiny bit to cover a big area. If you use too much it builds up and youi have to sand it back down.

I found mine at Michael's with all the glue (aisle 7a) I worked there for a couple of years after college! Pay sucked, but I loved working there....ok sorry - high jack over!

With a surface crack like that, usually I drop in some CA glue into the crack, then bondo over it. That should take care of it, but maybe someone else has a better suggestion.

I had two similar cracks except each crack radiated from the lower corner and went downwards. I tried that same repair initailly with an even better CA glue and it cracked the first time I slightly bent one of the cheek areas. I ended up opening the crack larger and added resin on the outside and built up the inner area just for more rigidity. But before I did the second repair, I installed a temp visor to minimize the cheek areas from flexing and opening the cracks again while I did the r&b and painting. When I was all done with the helmet, I just stuck in a new visor.

whoever had the helmet previous to me must have had a similar crack because on the inside of the helmet there is resin built up so we are good there. I might pick up some bondo and try and seal over it, it just seems kind of small for a $10 jug. do you think if i put the visor back in now and put tape over it so it doesnt get any spray/damage, and leave it in that it will hold up?

The less chance the cheek area will move the better, so if you can keep the visor clean you think, go for it. I'm only using cheapo $4 welding visors from a local supply house to me until I get something better, so visor cost was not an issue. Another issue I had to deal with on my helmet is that the visor edge of my cheeks were not on the same plane as the contour above the eye cutout. My cheeks had sprung out a good bit from not being connected to anything for a period of time, so I used the visor to pull everything back in line.

yeah i just found that out when i tried to put the visor back in

grrrr. well, i stuck it back in with some super glue and taped it down to hold it in place. i'm going to keep the visor in because it is definitely a lot more sturdy now. thanks for the help blitz.

how did you sand yours? circular motions?

i finished sanding at 400 grit. I masked off all the blue parts and started rub and buffing. I did one layer so far and im pretty happy with it, but i was wondering how many layers people were generally doing????

Looking great so far!

RnB is a beast to deal with, but here are a few tips.

1 The Primer coat must be flawless, in both surface smoothness & tone. By tone, I mean there cant be any lighter and/or darker areas from sanding, this WILL show through the RnB. Also, the lightness/Darkness of the primer you use will set the tone for the RnB finish.

2 Nasa could use this stuff to find Nano-fractures in the Space shuttle!
Your sanded Primer finish might look flawless, but the RnB will show you everything you missed. It is the most unforgiving material I have ever worked with. That said, do it right & you cant tell the difference between it & metal.

3 You put a little on, then spend the next hour removing as much as you can. It looks it's best as a thin wax coat. Not surprising, as thats what it is....

With the sanding question you had, I went circles on my armour & streaks on my Gauntlets.
Both sanding styles look cool.

Keep it up,

I wetsanded my bucket going from 220 to 600 grit. Sanding straight worked fine for me. It was about a 3-4 step process of wetsanding and repriming I did. I did one layer of R&B and then went back after it was buffed and hit everything again very sparingly all over. That last little bit seemed to even the R&B for me.

I found some of that royal blue at a super walmart last week also.

Good job with the RnB, dude ... it came out very well! Are your arms and hands tired now?!

quick question, i am in the middle of masking off the sections for painting the blues, but everytime i remove the making tape it peels up the blues even though its been dry for a day. Has this been happening to anyone else? Should i use something other than blue painters masking tape?

thats all i used...what kind of primer did you use? i used automobile grade primer in a spray can...had not trouble with the paint not sticking...BTW tell you girl she has some nice artwork there! cool tats!

will do! we are always workin on the tats.


i used some krylon primer then the blues. but when i try to mask off the blues to clean up the edges of the rub and buff on the cheek areas, the tape messes up the finish on the blues. Me and my girl talked about it tonight and i think we are gonna try doing something with minimal tape and wax paper. I'll post a pic and show you what i mean.

I had to stick that painters tape to my clothes a couple of times before application to take down the stickiness a little.

Maybe try some paint on mask. You can get it at any hobby store.

You can also use a vinyl based tape that stretches a bit to get a nice curved edge.

you are very welcome for masking off your helmet and fixing it. Now you can help with Zam!!
XO
Tiffany

Oh, and it looks really good.

Phil, that looks MANY times better than it originally did. You and Tiffany did a very nice job with that helmet. Keep up the good work.

This should help out with the ears & magnets. Scroll about half way down.

http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/showt...helmet+buildup

My RF cover is held on by magnets. Just drill slow and carefully.

Originally Posted by Jimmy BufFETT

Phil, that looks MANY times better than it originally did. You and Tiffany did a very nice job with that helmet. Keep up the good work.

thanks a lot dude. couldn't have done it without your help with the r&b

Originally Posted by bigkidbiggertoys

This should help out with the ears & magnets. Scroll about half way down.

http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/showt...helmet+buildup

thanks BKBT i really appreciate it. unfortunately i don't have any access to any drill press to countersink the magnets However i read through the entire thread and im with you on not putting electronics in the stalk so i might as well just epoxy it up and tighten the bolt. thanks for your help!

Now I'm eagerly waiting on the armor!

to be continued...

Glad to see you're having fun. I noticed on your helmet that it also has one of my old skirts. It looks to be installed upside down, the smooth leather side faces outward

Originally Posted by runJEDIrun

THE ARMOR ARRIVES!!! WAHAHAHAHA!

Br00tal!!!

Git R Done!

Originally Posted by bigkidbiggertoys

Glad to see you're having fun. I noticed on your helmet that it also has one of my old skirts. It looks to be installed upside down, the smooth leather side faces outward

oops! :o my bad! i forgot how i took it out before i started working, then when i went to put it back in i had a brain fart. DOH!

Looking good. It looks like your going on the right direction.

Looking good, dude.

Best back armor is Cruzer's. I don't know if he's doing them anymore.

thanks guys!

I'm pretty new to this forum, maybe a month in, and i've learned a heck of a lot from all of you. A month ago i didn't think it would be possible to even get to this point so i want to just send a public thank you for everyone's help with this. thanks!

You should update your sig. You made quite a bit of progress with your armor ... It looks VERY good!

..good job so far. keep it up ;o)

question, do you guys think this armor isn't shiny enough? i'm looking at some other peoples and im like "man, mine is definitely not THAT shiny..."

opinions? the rnb has dried for over a week now mind you. i dont know if it is still workable...

Looks pretty good to me

But then again, my opinion is biased

I had a real cast aluminum Hand Schaub helmet once & the rub n buff looked to be pretty much the same. Of course I didn't bring it to a high polish either. From all of the pics I have studied, Jango's armor is a bit rough & dirty to add to that "really gets use" look.

yeah, thats what i was thinking. thanks bkbt. appreciate it. i got worried that i maybe did it all wrong haha.

Originally Posted by runJEDIrun

question, do you guys think this armor isn't shiny enough? i'm looking at some other peoples and im like "man, mine is definitely not THAT shiny..."

opinions? the rnb has dried for over a week now mind you. i dont know if it is still workable...

I honestly think it looks just fine from looking at the picture. When I initially RnBed mine, it came out dull. The reason was because I used WAY too much RnB and didn't buff it hard enough (didn't build up enough heat.) So unless you did that, I wouldn't worry about it. The armor is not suppose to be super shiny, although it does looks really cool when it's shiny.

yeah i guess im worried about it being too dull then. with all the lights on and a flash it looks kind of shiny. i guess its too late to remove some huh?

It looks fine to me. You don't want it too shiny.

Looks great dude, keep it up!

I agree - looks good to me.

IF you want to remove it, I found that if you use a buffer wheel - the buffer will actually buff it off... found that out on accident.

Why is it that the more I rub the R&B the dirtier it looks. It look shiny but dirty.

Originally Posted by SoulAssassin

Why is it that the more I rub the R&B the dirtier it looks. It look shiny but dirty.

yeah i noticed that on my chest armor too, i ended up redoing the rnb in some sections because of it. overall it added to the weathering look im trying to go for. post some pics if you get a chance.

I found this and the only thing I could think is uneven primer underneath or dust from sanding the primer that gets into the R N B

Originally Posted by SoulAssassin

Why is it that the more I rub the R&B the dirtier it looks. It look shiny but dirty.

I'm going to guess it's uneven buffing if that makes sense. In other words, one section may have been buffed harder and long than another. It is also possible that the primer had been taken off in the process.

Originally Posted by HeadlessHunter

I found this and the only thing I could think is uneven primer underneath or dust from sanding the primer that gets into the R N B

That (dust) is a problem that makes doing the RnB job out in Phoenix VERY difficult. Mine doesn't look too shiny and smooth because the dust and high pollution levels actually react with the primer.

Great looking Jango so far RJ!

-Naas

I would get a clean old t-shirt (cause it will be ruined) and try to polish it more. I mean skip the gym that day and rub the living lights out of it. Keep flipping to a clean spot. That's what I did. Here's a pic of mine after. It took about 10 minutes per piece. I tried to stay consistant with direction and not wipe all over in different directions.

Jango 5204: It looks good, but I would not because the movie armor didn't look that "shiny", we're not talking 'silver', but rather 'alumin(i)um'. As was said in the Boba Fett book "The Fight to Surive", Jango cleaned his armor after every job but NEVER polished it. Something about "not drawing attention to yourself", which sounds logical. An armor that reflects all lights will draw attention to you, so in my eyes, it has the silver color, but not the shine.

it dulls out with time and sweat.

hey man, beautiful armor. yeah, id like to be somewhere in the middle i think

Big suprise in the mail! Now i have to get to work on modifying them.



flight suit and flak vest on the way.

Good luck and have fun!

Good to see that there wasn't too much of a delay on the boots being delivered.

I'm sure that it won't take you too long to get them all modified/Jangofied.

hey man youre doing a great job! i think your armor is fine...you will get some spots that are a tad less shiny with r&b...don't sweat it..it adds character and you'll want to put some weathering on the edges anyway...looks good...im ordering some of those boots this coming week. how do you find the sizes to be...do they fit big or tight?

I'd also like to know how they fit too.

As for your armor, I find that the true test is to take it outside and look at it in the sunlight. Then you'll see its true brilliance. 8)





But it looks just fine.

Originally Posted by JDFett

im ordering some of those boots this coming week. how do you find the sizes to be...do they fit big or tight?

Originally Posted by Jango72

I'd also like to know how they fit too.

As for your armor, I find that the true test is to take it outside and look at it in the sunlight. Then you'll see its true brilliance. 8)





But it looks just fine.

Hey JD and Jango, Thanks for the comments! They are great boots but from what i can tell they don't do 1/2 sizes, and that kind of sucked for me. On the Journeys site it does say that it fits true to your shoe size (mine is size 10) and i based it off my chuck taylors. I read one of the reviews and the guy said everything fit good width wise but the length ran about a 1/2 a size too big for him which it did for me too. Ideally i wish i could have gotten the non-existent 9.5 and with it running 1/2 a size too big, it would have fit me perfect. So since there was some heel slipage i just put on some thicker socks and it fit like a glove. I didn't want to chance getting one size too small since they are not available online and backordered. I think i waited 3 or 4 weeks? Otherwise they are a beaut.

Originally Posted by Jango72

As for your armor, I find that the true test is to take it outside and look at it in the sunlight. Then you'll see its true brilliance. 8)

A true bounty hunter stays in the shadows and tries to remain inconspicuous.

I just checked out the boots at Journeys, They are now on sale $20 cheaper than when I picked them up. on;y $59.99

http://www.journeys.com/catalog_deta...s/GBX&id=59726

Sweet!!!

Thanks for the tip bud, muchly appreciate it.

Still gotta wait until I can front the cash though, still recouping from Christmas.

Looks good! I know what you mean about the helmet looking odd with them on now, I felt the same way with mine.

Be careful now with the rest of the armor, this is usually where people "**** up" by getting a terrible flightsuit. Pick one with care and good color etc. Hate seing costumes that looks more like a pair of pyjamas rather than an armor.

Looks good to me, weather it up.

ok, now i feel a lot better.

Originally Posted by Drake

Be careful now with the rest of the armor, this is usually where people "**** up" by getting a terrible flightsuit. Pick one with care and good color etc. Hate seing costumes that looks more like a pair of pyjamas rather than an armor.

I have a whole bunch of things on its way to me and i can't wait to start putting it all together. So far I have ordered:

-BM flight suit and Flak vest
-MLC classic jet pack + ammo belt
-MOW gauntlets + girth belt
-BKBT thighs and shoe armor

now im broke

I think it looks right for Jango! I REALLY prefer the helmet without them... I think they are sort of silly looking myself. But, they are there, and those look the part!

Originally Posted by runJEDIrun

ok, now i feel a lot better.

If that was regarding my previous comment, I didn't mean it in any "offensive way", just wanted to share my opinion which may (or may not) be of help to you later. Seen people before who has made awesome armor parts, but then kinda "phoned it in" on the rest. Don't like such a beatiful armor like yours to suffer because some elements of it is.. well.. under expectation. Good luck with the ordered parts and I hope it will all come together nice and smooth.

Originally Posted by runJEDIrun

now im broke

Welcome to the Fett adventure ... addicting and expensive, isn't it?

Originally Posted by Drake

If that was regarding my previous comment, I didn't mean it in any "offensive way", just wanted to share my opinion which may (or may not) be of help to you later. Seen people before who has made awesome armor parts, but then kinda "phoned it in" on the rest. Don't like such a beatiful armor like yours to suffer because some elements of it is.. well.. under expectation. Good luck with the ordered parts and I hope it will all come together nice and smooth.

hahaha no no no. I meant i TRULY felt better after hearing your guys comments. I value both positive and negative criticism so i would never say that sarcastically. appreciate the feedback Drake!!

Originally Posted by Jimmy BufFETT

Welcome to the Fett adventure ... addicting and expensive, isn't it?

man, i thought i had an idea, but you don't know until you're neck deep in it.

Dude - you'll have an extra little suprise coming to you with the other stuff. If you dont like it, you could return it.

Something to complete your Jango. I dont need it, but it looks like you might.

Your Jango is looking pretty good and I think you deserve it.

Originally Posted by SEEKER

Dude - you'll have an extra little suprise coming to you with the other stuff. If you dont like it, you could return it.

Something to complete your Jango. I dont need it, but it looks like you might.

Your Jango is looking pretty good and I think you deserve it.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i wonder what it is? I'm really excited to get it man! I appreciate it

I got the best anniversary present today from my girl!



These will be nice and fun to put together. It will be a nice addition until i can afford some MR's or whatever the next thing is going to be.

Also purchased a girth belt from within my garrison by an unknown maker. Its not the most accurate bolo braiding or color, but it was close and fit my budget pretty well until i can upgrade. Maybe if JDfett does another run of his fantastic bolo belts...




now all i need is a mannequin like captjono to stick this all up on and access my situation haha! we're getting there slowly but surely.

Why do I have this feeling like I'm going to be hearing from you in the near future?

Nice blasters, definitely an awesome gift.

And like I mentioned to you before, if I can help you out in any way with your blasters, just let me know.

Originally Posted by Jango72

Why do I have this feeling like I'm going to be hearing from you in the near future?

Nice blasters, definitely an awesome gift.

And like I mentioned to you before, if I can help you out in any way with your blasters, just let me know.

hey Ian, I actually just started to sand the surface to smooth it out. Do you think i need to take it to a high grit if im not going to use rub and buff? i was thinking about maybe using that krylon stuff tony had posted in another thread. i just sanded it at 180. Also, the guy i bought it from recommended super glue to assemble it. What are your thoughts on that? Thanks man.

Great paint job on the metallics! At first sight I thought it's a real metal lid and armor!

Cool.

I'd use the fine grit sandpaper, I went up to 600 grit. That'll make the surface as smooth as a babies bottom.

It'll allow for any paint that goes over top to be as smooth and flaw free as it can be with minimal coats. If you can keep your coats as thin/light as possible then the finished product will look more like it was made that color as opposed to having been painted.

I used super glue, then had a few parts break off again. I switched to an automotive two-part epoxy that was designed for repairing plastic bumpers. My blasters have been dropped a few times ( even bounced off a wall ) and have yet to come apart.

It was a general purpose, 5 min epoxy by Permatex. It's in a two-sided syringe, and it's clear ( dries clear too ). You should be able to find it at most autoparts stores.

Originally Posted by Darth Clouds

Great paint job on the metallics! At first sight I thought it's a real metal lid and armor!

Cool.

thanks a lot man. i really appreciate it.

Originally Posted by Jango72

I'd use the fine grit sandpaper, I went up to 600 grit. That'll make the surface as smooth as a babies bottom.

It'll allow for any paint that goes over top to be as smooth and flaw free as it can be with minimal coats. If you can keep your coats as thin/light as possible then the finished product will look more like it was made that color as opposed to having been painted.

I used super glue, then had a few parts break off again. I switched to an automotive two-part epoxy that was designed for repairing plastic bumpers. My blasters have been dropped a few times ( even bounced off a wall ) and have yet to come apart.

It was a general purpose, 5 min epoxy by Permatex. It's in a two-sided syringe, and it's clear ( dries clear too ). You should be able to find it at most autoparts stores.

are you talking about sanding it before priming? or after? I'm just getting the residual resin off with sandpaper first then im going to prime it. should i then take it up to 600 grit? thanks man.

Well, seeing as I haven't re-primered mine yet, it couldn't hurt to hit it with the 600 grit prior to the primer. Then give it a light go with the 600 grit again before the final color is added, just to remove any imperfections in the primer coat.

You want to make sure that before you layer on the Krylon chrome that your surface is a smooth as possible. Chrome has a tendency to show every single teeny little flaw like it was lit up in neon.

haha. so are you using the krylon chrome spray or the krylon premium metallics? I was also thinking about the alclad2 paints, but i dont know. i also dont have an airbrush gun.

I'm going to try and get the Krylon premium metallics.

I was initially thinking of using the Alclad 2, and I do have a basic airbrush. But I was warned by a fellow squad member, who's an accomplished painter, that the finish wouldn't be durable enough unless my blasters were purely for display.

So I'd stay clear of the Alclad 2. I don't know what the cost is where you are... but up here I'm not spending $40 for a small can, only to have to touch up or repaint my blasters after every troop/event.

gotcha. i just finished sanding one all the way and probably prime it up tomw. i think i am leaning toward the krylon metallics as well.

hey runJEDIrun, that suit is looking pretty awesome! I should have poked in here earlier! I have those same blasters, and haven't gotten them finished yet (still sanding/bondo-ing). Reading yours and Jango72's comments is helping me out on what I should be doing with these things. Just wanted to say thanks guys! And good luck!

hey man, thanks a lot. I'm glad this thread is helpful to others in some way or another. Are you bondoing the seams between each piece? or just filling little ditches in the resin?

Either way, these babies wind up looking like they're more bondo than resin.

This is where I'm at now. I super glued the trigger to the handle and flash supressor to the barrel. Now should i go get bondo and seal the pieces together? do i have to mix anything? or just apply right out of the can?