wash the resin first with soap and water.
Then primer, then some krylon silver paint.
Krylon is the toughest.
then seal the paint with a few coats of clear semi clear coat.
wash the resin first with soap and water.
Then primer, then some krylon silver paint.
Krylon is the toughest.
then seal the paint with a few coats of clear semi clear coat.
so dont bother with the bondo then?
If you buy the can of Bondo, you'll need to mix it with the hardener. I think you can get some spot putty in a tube that doesn't need mixing. I'd wash it all while in parts, so you dont miss any small hard to reach places.
yeah i got around to washing it with water and dish soap. I then let it dry, scored the pieces where they were going to connect and super glued them together. I just need something to put in the seams and cracks.
Wow, your Jango suit is lookin sweet so far!
Is that the resin blaster kitt someone here recommended to me recently(in my rubies blaster thread)? That looks sweet as well... I saw some resin blasters in another thread and they kinda turned me off to the resin kits, but that from what I can tell looks really good.
I'm makin my own Jango blasters however. Well... a friend is machining the barrels for me and I'm doin the rest.
Can't wait to see what you do with these! :thumbsup
I'd go with the "kitty hair" IT's called Bondo glass. Has fibers in it for strength. I try to use that whenever possible. IT is a little harder to sand though.
Just go to Walmart and pick up a tube of Bondo spot and glazing putty.
There's no mixing required, jut use straight out of the tube. Once it dries, then you can sand it. I then use a baby wipe to remove any residuual dust left behind.
At this point, it's ready for primer then paint.
Blah, I hate that spot & glazing putty. Its worthless, IMO. I say go with the autobody filler in the can.
Hey, sorry for the late response runJEDIrun, I'm using bondo to fill the gaps, not attach any of the pieces together. I haven't attached any of the parts together. Let me know how that works out for you with filling the holes and dents with it as once piece. If that's easier, I'll do that on the 2nd blaster. I haven't touched that one yet. Good luck with whatever filler you choose to use! I'd like to see how things turn out for you.
maybe i missed it somewhere but should i paint the barrel and handle separately then attach them or attach them with glue/bondo then paint them?
I don't know about painting before assembly, but I'm going to fill the dents, then glue together the parts before paint. Probably glue it all together before any primer.
It's a bit more of a preference thing to fully assemble prior to painting or to partially assemble, then paint.
I'm going with the fully assembled then paint method as I feel that it's best in order to hide any and all join seams. It'll just require some fancy masking.
I plan to apply the matte finish first, then mask off the grip and apply the chrome effect finish.
yeah i think i'm gonna go that route too. I picked up two colors at this hardware store on my street and im gonna give them a try. we'll see.
Like I said before, looking good. Keep us updated! :)
Here is where I'm at so far.
next im going to sand 220-600 then put the metallics and silver on.
Wow thats turning out great! Did you use bondo to attach the different parts? Or as a filler alongside whatever adhesive you chose to use? I'm going to assemble then paint then.
also, in between working on the jango i do get around to school assignments. Here is a testprint from a series im working on now. i just thought i would share since im wearing my jango bucket haha. keep in mind it is rough and i havent properly edited it yet. I don't have a mouse on this computer so i could only use the pad on my laptop and it was horrible. i will def post the finals though. I'll keep it small in the meantime so you can't see all my mistakes haha! :lol
very cool. that reminds me of something i did a long time ago back when I was an unmarried man living in a loft. :lol
hahaha, a big "lol" on that one. xD
ok, i have a question about painting the resin kit blasters. I sanded it down, primed it, sanded it again, and have tried two different specialty metallic paints that leave permanent fingerprints days later. The full cure time is 24 hrs. but its dry to the touch in 15 minutes. Why is this happening? What is everyone else using to paint the handle and barrel?
i've decided to give up on doing the two different silvers on the guns and just paint the whole thing one silver color. On a happier note i got my jet pack, ammo belt, and boots that i bought off Seeker yesterday and that made my month! Absolutely love this gear! Thanks again Seeker for a awesome jet pack and a beautifully crafted ammo belt.
Lets see the standard "lay everything on the floor" picture. You got the Reione replicas?
im not sure what they are bedstu? something like that. but they are already nice and worn in and naturally weathered. perfect for me.
Now i have the inspiration/motivation to actually weather up my armor now. The only things i need now are the shins, holsters, knees and back piece. My MOW gauntlets are being repaired due to some crackage. Anyone know someone who makes shins? I am also planning to get the holsters and back piece from cruzer once he recovers from the gauntlet run. I am on the list for asok's knee run. And I have a bobamaker vest and flight suit on the way sometime in the next month i would imagine. Also if anyone is up in the NY area I will be moving up to Queens this summer and transferring to the ECG when i get my jango finished soo.... we should chill.
just on a side note, how are people weathering the armor. dab it on dab it off with water type thing? i've never weathered anything with acrylics like that before. On my sandtrooper i used fullers earth (sand like stuff)
I used some dry brush and some sponge. I always blotted first to remove the majority of the paint.
I think those boots will work out perfect for you!! The pant leg covers the top of the boot anyway, and the armour covers the velcro closure. It also has the accurate sole, which makes those boots a great find!
yeah im lucky Seeker rocks.
I finally got the nerve to start weathering my armor. I don't know if its too "light" or not or if i should go darker, but the reference pictures i had downloaded and saw in the visual dictionary didn't seem too dirty. Mainly build up along the edges and cracks.
The blaster....ah yes the blaster, frustrated me to no end so i sort of finished it and moved on. I know that the blaster probably wouldn't be dirty and grimey because it would probably be well kept and clean, but after talking to some people i just decided to use artistic license and just dirty that up too. Next i am going to weather the helmet and build the second blaster. Here are some pics of where I'm at so far armor wise.
i really wish i had a mannequin to piece this all together. its hard to picture it unless its up on something with the helmet. OH and i need to paint gold in the barrel
Blasters look good man.
I always like a lot of dirt. I think you can go more, but it's personal preference. It will be fine either way.
Are you going to paint the 'brass' details? It still looks great though!
Phil, the costume is looking outstanding so far, dude! I really can't wait to see you with the whole costume on.:thumbsup:jango:thumbsup
looking great phil! everything is coming together nice. keep up the good work...and the apparent luck..lol
You took the smart way out on the JP Phil. I can attest to it being a pain in the arse to paint. I'm glad it wasnt the Boba pack with all the weathering I had to do. The rest of your stuff is coming along nicely by the way.
Wow! I wish I had the patience you did!
I need some help! I wanted to redo one of my chest plates because i didnt like the finish. So i sanded it down and got rid of everything. Then when i went to prime it it only took to some of the plate leaving the rest wet and the primer was "boiling" up and cracking. Anyone know how i can fix this? I am already on my 3rd coat. should i just try to sand it out?
That's what I did. For whatever reason some of my primer on my thighs spider webbed on me, it was filler primer, so I wet sanded it down and applied my coats slower with more dry time in between.
hey 5204, Thanks for the reply. It really is weird. I wetsanded it after i primed it with 400-b sandpaper and i have re-primed it 5 times now. It is slightly better, but now smooth by any means. i was about to just RnB it and give up. what grit did you wet sand it down to?
probably over kill, but I finished it with a soft block and 1000 or 1500, I don't remember, whatever I had in the garage.
I would go to at least 600 and probably 1000 grit. I think 400 grit is too low to get it smooth enough.
You can get 1000 grit and higher at auto parts stores.
all of my pieces are Rub and buffed at 400 wetsand including the helmet. Do you think i should sand it all off and start over? I'm just concerned I am going to have the same problem i had when i tried to redo the chest piece where it just bubbled, boiled, and spider webbed.
ok, i took some pics to show you guys why i wanted to redo some of the pieces. at first it didnt bother me because it looked weathered and nice, but in a flash photo you can see it looks more uneven and smudgy. I don't know..maybe i have been looking at it too long. What do you all think? I would redo them but not after what i had to deal with on the chest piece.
good ? bad ? ugly ?
does it come across as weathering or just looks like ****? :confused
What did you weather it with? Is it possible to lightly scrape or buff it out? Or does redoing it mean refinishing the whole thing? Maybe you could just Rn'B over it.
I tried to redo one of the pieces (right breast plate) and I had a terrible time trying to re-prime the second time. I guess I'm just trying to see if anyone knows a good way to fix this. :facepalm
I would resand the whole thing again with 400 sandpaper to get the whole paint off. then then primer it again with rustoleum ligh gray primer.
then sand it again with a 600 grit. then primer it again. then sand it with a 800 grit.
It seems like alot to do but its very much worht the results.
The thing you want to accoplish is to almost have a shinny primmer surface to the rubb and buff to attach on.
Remember when your R&Bing you want to do a whole piece at a time. dont do sections. paste a bunch of dabs all over one piece then rubb it over then press really hard with your hand to generate heat to melt the wax on the the piece.
Remember to work fast. do it like a mad man. thats why you have uneven parts cuz this stuff dries quickly.
ulso dont mind the dull parts. remember that this suit is supposed to be nice and gritty looking.
remember that R&B is a wax and it needs to be melted down to a surface or it wont ever dry. The harder you buff with your hand the better.
sircular motions on every piece.
here's a picture of a well beat up jango chest piece.
see how messy it looks.
thanks seeker! i will give it a try. the hardest part to redo is defintiely going to be the knees and the helmet. I will post pictures to show my progress. thanks a lot man.
is this the correct primer you are talking about seeker? not sure if it would work becuase it said "auto" http://www.mclendons.com/item.asp?sku=10953022
I'm sure most primers would work. I prefer using Painter's Touch Grey Primer found at Home Depot...which is coincidentally a Rustoleum line.
Your helmet looks great now. I woulnt touch if i were you.
that's one thing i always notice on some jango, is that that the helmet looks super duper duper duper clean.
I myself have always liked my stuff dirty. That's my personal feeling. I alwasy think of it a dirty cowboy from the western days. those guys live in the dirt and dust only cared for money, drinks, and women. :lol
Just kidding, but yeah.
I'll will be redoing my whole jango again this year. I wanted to look more beat up. You know, some wear and tear.
As far as the primer, I always had really good luck with the rust-oleum verion. it just feels like it has the right thickness for me.
some other ones are thicker and have other ingrients in them. some have spot filler etc..
this is a pic of one of them.
you could buy at any ace or home depot.
yeah i guess i was just worried that if i re did the armor it would be far more shiny than the helmet is now and i didnt want it to look bad. I def like the dirtier look and im sure coming from a sandtrooper to jango didn't help in that dept. haha! i will redo the armor like you said and see how it all looks in the end. thanks guys!
If its too shiny, take some 0000 steel wool to dull it down. I did that with my helmet to match my cold cast gauntlets. Initially the helmet was way too shiny.
ok. sweet. thanks a lot.
Update: I sanded everything down except for the helmet and knees for now (mostly because i don't want to deal with them) and i am still noticing little pock marks in the right breast plate like before. Should i use filler primer for this one piece? or is that going to change the entire finish?
thanks in advance.
pock marks...like orange peel? If it's orange peel I'd use filler primer and sand, filler primer and sand, till it's gone. The more fine you go on sandpaper the shinier it comes out. If they are holes I'd fill them first.
yeah like orange peel. I will pick up filler primer then. thanks man! would this be the correct filler primer? http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDep...ItemNo=FIB+725
That doesnt say it's a filler primer. Dupli-color makes one, says filler primer right on the can. I use DuPont QuickPrime A-4220S acrylic primer. This link might be for the Dupli-color if your shopping at this website.
gotcha. thanks for the help.
i know im late to the party phil...lol but i very lightly sanded all my bkbt armor with 400 grit and that was it...i also did the same with my helmet and my cruzer gauntlets...they all came in with a super slick feel to them out of the box so i only hit the stuff quick with 400.
all my stuff looks pretty good..not too shiney but not dull either...
the rustolium primer for auto is what i redid my helmet with..and still only went to 400 grit and it came out real nice.
also you should consider my R&B weathering technique..it works so much better than arcyllic paints...at least IMO
Dude this is one sick Jango!!:thumbsup
yup...the colors you need is silver leaf for the base armor, which you know...
then do the following steps...
first go around the edges with pewter..this creates the illusion of the silver being worn around the edge...i use a small soft model paint brush for these steps. don't be afraid to come out in a non symetrical pattern to even 1/2 inch in spots. I also went around the "led" area of the chest armor.
after that you use ebony. this has a bit of a different texture to it and you really only need to dab the brush on the top of the tube to get the effect. other wise you get a real dark black look and have to really spread it around to fix it. a little will give the edge on top of the pewter a smoke look. you also want to do these methods to all the creases of the knee armor and around the knee darts....in the creases or "low areas" of the helmet...where the dirt would normally collect.
once you get the ebony down...use spanish copper to create the rusty appearance. i usually keep this to the areas where there would be water collection, in deep cracks and the inside edges of the gauntlets, helmet, knees, ect. a small amount can be spread around gingerly on top of the ebony and it looks good even on the chest pieces. inside the led area.
it take a bit to get the feel...but after your first piece...i would recomment you knee so you can get the feel for it before you go to the chest, youll get it. it's not that hard to do and it drys solid. you can get it off if you dont like it but its much more permanant than acryllics. once totally dry its stay on. ive also found that "chunks" of the spanish copper and heavy spot give it a bit of 3D rust look in cracks...adds to the realism. and that too will eventually dry and be pretty solid where it is.
ive also noticed on some screen shots that the vest has some brownish dirty stains on it by the chest and shoulder area. i used some of the spanish copper for those areas of the vest too...just dry brush it with the brush with very little R&B on it.
let me know if you need any thing else.
thanks JD, you da man! i will definitely try that once i get the silver leaf on. thanks a lot!
Everything is looking great!! But be sure to paint the tips of your Westars bronze, I just now noticed that! Keep up the good work, you'll make an awesome Jango.
After talking to Seeker for a while about weathering and stuff, I decided to re work my helmet. Now I'm satisfied with it i think. I'm sure it will never be totally done. :lol
now to redo the armor!
I think it looks fantastic. I love the look of the dome. Nice and dull. Very realistic, like the real thing.
That picture looks pretty dramatic. Are you a photogropher?:lol
This is looking really good so far, just joined up here myself. I'm unsure of the direction that I want to go at the moment though. However, why should I be so unsure when I could do EVERYTHING. *looks at empty wallet* There's always another payday.
hey there, how are you doing on this..havnt seen you post much in a bit!
Very nice, i'm working in my new upgrade jango costume, i hope next month it should be completly done. I 'm waiting for the sewer for my new jumpsuit.
But yours look good.:thumbsup
time for an update! Been really busy this month with work and such and i havent had much time to work on jango. I did however get my Bobamaker flight suit and vest in :) The vest is perfect and airbrush weathered (will post pics soon) but the flight suit color was a little off for me. I talked to Cruzer about this today and picked up some RIT denim dye. I plan to do a third dyeing with the RIT wine color once that comes in to give it that purplish hue.
I'm an idiot and didn't take pics before i started dyeing. These two pics are after the first dye with and without flash.
I ended up using a whole bottle of the RIT denim blue and probably at least 3/4 of the wine color when it comes in. Let me know if you think it looks better. THANKS!
BM flight suit review: the sleeves were kind of short which is ok because the gauntlets will cover it, but the legs are kind of baggy so I'm going to get my girlfriend to take it in some. The quality of material and stitching is great! There are two independent front zippers, one fly and one jacket type. Overall pretty happy with the suit, but it definitely requires some work to get it screen accurate in color and probably in fit as well.
p.s. those dark spots are wet spots cuz it didnt dry in the dryer all the way and i didnt have another $1.50 ;)
Suit looks rockin dude!
Very nice work!
Looks blue to me. I used Rit purple and navy blue. washed it, dryed it and then used some royal for a short time, cause the first run was really purple.
Needs more purple.
ok. so do you guys think using RIT purple or wine would be better then? Wine i will have to order, but purple i can pick up at the local hardware store. How much of the bottle did you end up using of the purple ? 1/2? whole? thanks!
I was really purple at first. I washed it dyed it, hit it with some navy, washed it dryed it, then added some royal.
I took about 5 trys to get it right, andI might need to touch it up after several washes.
haha! i won't hold you to it, but thanks for the info. I will give that a try this weekend.
suit is looking good phil...cant wait to see this thing done...with you moving to NYC...youll be close to the NEG...maybe ill be able to catch you in person sometime!
yeah definitely man! im sad i missed out on the new york comic con. did your jango make an appearance there?
Coming along nicely:thumbsup
Looking great so far man..I dont really know what else to day it will be a real pleasure to see it completed. (I think its defently going to be one of the best!)
Hey Cinco, was that jango in the ECG? I heard one of their members just finished up his. Looks great. I got a lot to live up to.
No real updates yet. I'm short on cash and waiting on the shins, back, and holsters...
but I did get a Jango stand up cut out!
So I wanted to post a pic with everything i have so far laid out on the table. The gauntlets are not pictured as they are getting some fiberglass reinforcing. All i need now is the back plate, hoses, holster and shins. Doesn't seem like much but $$$ wise is still far away for me right now. This was taken inside with flash.
I did buy some wine RIT dye for the jumpsuit. What do you guys think about the color so far. Should I just soak it in the wine for a while or do you think I should bleach it down some to make it lighter? Thanks!
You're gettign there, you got a nice collection of parts going there. I have an SGB flightsuit that was the lightblue color at first. I dyed it a couple times using the RIT denim combined with RIT's liquid purple color and it came out decent. I went sparingly on the color at first, barely using any dye until I got it where I wanted it to be. I hate dyeing stuff like this. I got another flightsuit coming soon from Ladysewsforus and I'll be dreading dyeing that and possibly messing it up.
yeah this flight suit is going to need some adjusting to fit better too, I'm a little scared about taking on that.
So do you think if i add RIT wine to this it will be a step in the right direction?
Looks awesome man! I had been checking for updates. It will be incredible when you finish.
Just put it in the dye and take your chances. I used liquid Rit purple. Make sure to dissolve the powder if that';s what your using. I'd do 5-10 minutes and check it. I always kept stirring it to make sure it came out even. Wash it, dry it, check it. Not enough? dye it again, a little longer, wash it dry it and check it. Basically trial and error. Mine was way too purple at first, then I added some different blues till I found something I could live with.