My Jango Progress

runJEDIrun

Active Hunter
My Jango Progress (NEW PICS! UPDATES!)

UPDATED WITH NEW INFO! 98% done! I will also be changing all of the linked pictures to attachments to make it load quicker. THANKS!


Ok, Here i will post my Jango progress with a ton of pics and I'm definitely going to need help along the way. Right now I've sanded everything down and taken apart the ear which had previously been glued down. I have Krylon Gray Primer ready, but i tested it on my ear piece, waited an hour and when i went to wet sand it, it started to rub off. Then i read the back of the can really carefully and it says for wet sanding to use Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer KO1317. My question is should i use the primer i have now and dry sand or go get this primer i have never heard of or seen before and wet sand? haha! Feedback welcomed! :)

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UPDATED WITH NEW INFO! 98% done! I will also be changing all of the linked pictures to attachments to make it load quicker. THANKS!


Ok, Here i will post my Jango progress with a ton of pics and I'm definitely going to need help along the way. Right now I've sanded everything down and taken apart the ear which had previously been glued down. I have Krylon Gray Primer ready, but i tested it on my ear piece, waited an hour and when i went to wet sand it, it started to rub off. Then i read the back of the can really carefully and it says for wet sanding to use Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer KO1317. My question is should i use the primer i have now and dry sand or go get this primer i have never heard of or seen before and wet sand? haha! Feedback welcomed! :)

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paint first...then be sure to mask it real well and put the r and b on....that stuff gets everywhere so be sure it is totally dry and set up and your hands are clean before taking the tape off the painted areas.
 
The Rustoleum Royal Blue I am pretty sure I picked up at Home Depot.

I R&B'd mine first, masking off the edges of the areas that were to be painted later on and had no problem. When it came to apply the paint, use quality paint tape and take some of the tackiness off the tape by sticking it to a clean cloth first then place it on the R&B'd areas to be protected.
 
Almost forgot, now that I see what you are trying to primer...you are'nt using that beverage in the green bottle for the liquid are you? :lol: Although it's a low end primer you're using, I've had success with it. I would sand down the ear giving it a good scratch coat into the old paint. Then give it a scrubbing with something like acetone to remove any old solvents, release, or waxes that might have been on the part.
 
hey guys, where are you all finding your rub n buff? i searched the michaels website but didn't get any hits. i found some on ebay i could order though. will one tube do a whole helmet? or should i get two?
 
One tube should do your helmet and armor...you need a really really tiny bit to cover a big area. If you use too much it builds up and youi have to sand it back down.

I found mine at Michael's with all the glue (aisle 7a) :lol: I worked there for a couple of years after college! Pay sucked, but I loved working there....ok sorry - high jack over! :lol:
 
got a question for you all, I discovered a small hair line crack in the side of the T visor. Though this part will be painted with the ocean blue, should i worry about this getting any worse? If so, what should i do to seal the crack?
Note: the crack doesn't appear on the inside.


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With a surface crack like that, usually I drop in some CA glue into the crack, then bondo over it. That should take care of it, but maybe someone else has a better suggestion.
 
i went with sealing this hairline crack with super glue. I let it seep into the crack and let it harden, then sanded it down smooth. hopefully this holds. this image is pre sanding

now i am going to sand the entire helmet in preparation for the rub and buff, but i wanted to know what people were doing. is the sanding supposed to be in a circular motion or just back and forth in small sections? will it matter after i r&b? i'm just woried about the marks the sandpaper leaves showing through in the end. suggestions?

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I had two similar cracks except each crack radiated from the lower corner and went downwards. I tried that same repair initailly with an even better CA glue and it cracked the first time I slightly bent one of the cheek areas. I ended up opening the crack larger and added resin on the outside and built up the inner area just for more rigidity. But before I did the second repair, I installed a temp visor to minimize the cheek areas from flexing and opening the cracks again while I did the r&b and painting. When I was all done with the helmet, I just stuck in a new visor.
 
whoever had the helmet previous to me must have had a similar crack because on the inside of the helmet there is resin built up so we are good there. I might pick up some bondo and try and seal over it, it just seems kind of small for a $10 jug. do you think if i put the visor back in now and put tape over it so it doesnt get any spray/damage, and leave it in that it will hold up?
 
The less chance the cheek area will move the better, so if you can keep the visor clean you think, go for it. I'm only using cheapo $4 welding visors from a local supply house to me until I get something better, so visor cost was not an issue. Another issue I had to deal with on my helmet is that the visor edge of my cheeks were not on the same plane as the contour above the eye cutout. My cheeks had sprung out a good bit from not being connected to anything for a period of time, so I used the visor to pull everything back in line.
 
yeah i just found that out when i tried to put the visor back in :lol:

grrrr. well, i stuck it back in with some super glue and taped it down to hold it in place. i'm going to keep the visor in because it is definitely a lot more sturdy now. thanks for the help blitz.

how did you sand yours? circular motions?:confused
 
i finished sanding at 400 grit. I masked off all the blue parts and started rub and buffing. I did one layer so far and im pretty happy with it, but i was wondering how many layers people were generally doing????
 
Looking great so far!

RnB is a beast to deal with, but here are a few tips.

1 The Primer coat must be flawless, in both surface smoothness & tone. By tone, I mean there cant be any lighter and/or darker areas from sanding, this WILL show through the RnB. Also, the lightness/Darkness of the primer you use will set the tone for the RnB finish.

2 Nasa could use this stuff to find Nano-fractures in the Space shuttle!
Your sanded Primer finish might look flawless, but the RnB will show you everything you missed. It is the most unforgiving material I have ever worked with. That said, do it right & you cant tell the difference between it & metal.

3 You put a little on, then spend the next hour removing as much as you can. It looks it's best as a thin wax coat. Not surprising, as thats what it is....

With the sanding question you had, I went circles on my armour & streaks on my Gauntlets.
Both sanding styles look cool.

Keep it up,
:cheers
 
I wetsanded my bucket going from 220 to 600 grit. Sanding straight worked fine for me. It was about a 3-4 step process of wetsanding and repriming I did. I did one layer of R&B and then went back after it was buffed and hit everything again very sparingly all over. That last little bit seemed to even the R&B for me.
 
thanks for the great feedback guys. I ended up going with the circular motion doing 220-400 grit sandpaper. Then i ran water over the whole thing to clean off the dust and let it dry. then i started the rub and buff aka PAIN IN THE BUTT! :angry This is my first coat which was pretty even but like Jono said, it showed some flawed areas.

this is after i applied a second coat that generally took care of the uneveness that was there in the first two pics. It isn't PERFECT, but i kind of like that. In the end it will add to the overall realism and weathering when all is said and done. Tomw i will be applying the Krylon Ocean Blue, and my search will continue for the elusive Rustoleum Royal Blue. I went to Lowe's, Ace, Logans, True Value, Home depot, K-mart and still haven't found it. The hunt goes on...

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