Whats the best way to install the keysolts on the Asok CC Jango helmet?
Discussion on Keyslot install within the Jango Fett Costume forum, part of the Star Wars Prequel Trilogy Bounty Hunters category; Whats the best way to install the keysolts on the
Whats the best way to install the keysolts on the Asok CC Jango helmet?
Sand down the edges a bit to make sure everything lines up and fits flush. Then I just use 5 min epoxy and stick it on there.
The main thing is to make sure you fit the opening. If the keyslot side it still too big it won't fit the curve at the back of the helmet and will cause gaps.
Has anyone tired using Chicago screws? Then you could remove it to polish if needed.
Dremel, 60 grit sandpaper, and epoxy putty.
@ Mullreel Thanks for the tip
@ Devilstar Thanks for the pics
I assume I will need to sand the inside of the helmet as well.
Yup, a little bit at a time until it fits into place... on both pieces.
Well I tried that method and screwed up the keyslots guess I when alittle to fast....Time to break out the resin and the aluminum powder....
after I cut out the square n the back for the slots I measure all four sides and cut out a paper template of the back. After that I center the key slots on the template, then mark the outer line of the template on the piece. I cut the excess off, sand the back down a bit, the sand the edges on a bit of a bevel to fit. Then some extra thick ca glue to hold it in place. I've been asked to post a tutorial with pics, and I completely spaced it out on this last helmet, but it's ok, i've still got 3 more to do very soon. That tut will be posted, fear not, gentle reader.
Get yourself a file kit from Home Depot, and it shouldn't take more than an hour.
I ended up applying abit of resin with the powder mixed in to fix where I messed up not the best fix but I guess its acceptable.
I've just ordered a second keyslot panel off Asok because my first one is stuffed
Not because of anything I did! no slip of the dremel, not even from accidently dropping it no Sir!!
Well dropping it may have had something to do with it....dropping it next to my dogs bed in the garage maybe
yeah I didn't name him Chewie for nothin' you know
LOL, sorry for your 'loss' but "the dog at my keyslo"t is a good one!
@ Werstrooper Sorry to hear that your in the same boat. Its rather tricky install wish the key slots had been made into the helmet.
Guys one other quick question? I have started painting my lid and the Rustoleum Royal Blue is coming up rather bumpy. Whats the story on this? Shouldn't it be spraying flat? Do I need to sand it after I spray the Royal Blue on?
I hate Rustoleum royal blue... I buy a new can for every helmet. It only sprays for a short time until it starts sputtering like mad.
Odd part is that it was a new can but it figures with my luck.
I got to thinking Devilstar could it be the primer which is causing the paint to bump up?
No clue, really... What primer is it? Is it that automotive primer? That stuff can get a layer of dust on it. Try krylon primer.
i'm still using my first ever can of rustoleum royal blue, i've done like seven helmets with it so far. soon to be another two or three more. just be sure to hold it upside down and spray the nozzle clean before and after you use it.
i like to prime twice when i do a helmet too. i use rustoleum filler primer first, then wet sand it down a bit with 800 grit. then i use rustoleum automotive primer and wet sand that with 1000 grit. after that you're ready for paint.
Use the krylon primer and you won't have to sand it at all... You should try it sometime.
As far as spraying the blue cans clean, I've tried that and its hit or miss. It doesn't always work. Seems to me that once they start sputtering, its **** near impossible to get it to stop no matter what you do. But then again, what do I know? Its not like I ever painted a helmet before, right?
Last edited by Devilstar2k2; Jan 10, 2011 at 10:03 PM.
you make a valid argument. a lot of people get crackle when they put the royal blue over the ocean blue too. it may have something to do with the altitude i'm at or the lack of humidity in the mountains.
i've used all sorts of different primers and i've found i get best results when i sand them with a high grit before i put any color down. it's just part of my process for painting now.
The visor should be painted after the cheeks... Then if you under spray, or get a tape line, it doesn't show and/or can be retouched without even being able to tell that it ever happened.
i go the other way with it. after priming twice i put down the ocean blue, tape it off, lightly sand the ears and cheeks with 1000, then put the royal blue down. there's a little bit of a paint line, but it totally passes the three foot check.
I just think the paint line looks better if it falls on the cheek and not the visor, being that the visor is in the 'foreground'. As far as a line on the ears, that can get weathered in with acrylic crud.
my taping technique is very time intensive, so my paint line is right on the line of the of the mandible and the upper cheek.
Alright, man... If the 3 foot mark is good enough for you, then I won't argue.
any closer than that and the viewer is just way too friendly. and i'm like, "GET OUT OF MY BUBBLE!!!"
I'm in the royal blue first, oceans blue second(on top) camp!
i just find it a huge pain to try to tape the ears.
Use 1/8 pin striping, then edge it with blue tape. Just be extremely careful peeling it up.
But don't use the pin stripes at all if you need to paint a helmet fast. It will definitely tear up your paint if its not fully cured.
- Gather the necessary items: a straw, the spray can, large cup of hot water, and collecting jar
- Cut the straw to a short length such that the contents of the spray can do not need to travel too far, and has less surface area to get attached.
- Submerge the spray can into the hot water, which will warm the can up. This helps the extraction of the paint
- Once the can is warmed up properly, place the straw over the spray can nozzle, and point the other end of the straw into the collecting jar and spray.
- When the can becomes cold and the spray can starts to spray less paint, reheat the can by submerging it back into the hot water
- Continue to fill the collecting jar, but stop when the bottle is half full.
- Using a stainless steel stirring rod or bamboo stiring rod; place the rod into the jar. At this point you can stop and let the collected paint degas on it's own with the rod sticking into the paint and leaving the jar open. Or you can facilitate the degasing process.
- To facilitate the degasing process, carefully stir the paint using the rod. The liquid will bubble up as the gas escapes and the bottle will cool down considerably during this process. When the bottle cools, submerge it into the hot water to warm up the bottle.
- Once the bottle is warmed up, stir carefully to continue the degasing process. This process will need to be cycled through a couple of times to help degas the liquid.
- Once the liquid has been degased properly, it is ready for use in the airbrush. Thinning is usually not necessary. However, when filling the airbrush cup, only fill it half way, as there may still be gas in the liquid and the airbrushing process make turn the liquid volitle and you will have a nice little exploded mess of paint.
Belton RALs are the way to go, im pretty shore (if the didnt use air brush) that the original painters of jango went this way ,
there a few resons i say this mainly cos you couldnt get those paint brands in sydney at the time and the hard were up the road from fox studios (isenbergs miter ten) was the only place you could buy any spray paints other then 2 dollar shop paint at the time and the Krylons were availible at the time butr the colours were in the osha range and i think i own the only krylon ocean blue ever sold over here, along with the fact that the pin stripping is only sold in the metric mesurments over here so 3ml pin is what i think is the only corect possiblity,
Sorry to get of topic but i realy think that if you are going for an acurate jango you must take the facts in to acount,
Also the DVS2K2 way forsetting the key slots is gennious im puilling my slots of and doing them that way
I meant for him to use the 1/8 pin striping as masking tape... You can go around curves with it easily. Its what I usually do for my helmets, so I don't have to sit there for an hour with scissors trying to cut curves into painters tape.
Of cause , sorry i didnt read all of the posts , that is a great way to get a continuous line