Keyslot install

you make a valid argument. a lot of people get crackle when they put the royal blue over the ocean blue too. it may have something to do with the altitude i'm at or the lack of humidity in the mountains.

i've used all sorts of different primers and i've found i get best results when i sand them with a high grit before i put any color down. it's just part of my process for painting now.
 
The visor should be painted after the cheeks... Then if you under spray, or get a tape line, it doesn't show and/or can be retouched without even being able to tell that it ever happened.
 
i go the other way with it. after priming twice i put down the ocean blue, tape it off, lightly sand the ears and cheeks with 1000, then put the royal blue down. there's a little bit of a paint line, but it totally passes the three foot check.
 
I just think the paint line looks better if it falls on the cheek and not the visor, being that the visor is in the 'foreground'. As far as a line on the ears, that can get weathered in with acrylic crud.
 
my taping technique is very time intensive, so my paint line is right on the line of the of the mandible and the upper cheek.
 
any closer than that and the viewer is just way too friendly. and i'm like, "GET OUT OF MY BUBBLE!!!"
 
Use 1/8 pin striping, then edge it with blue tape. Just be extremely careful peeling it up.


EDIT-

But don't use the pin stripes at all if you need to paint a helmet fast. It will definitely tear up your paint if its not fully cured.
 
I hate Rustoleum royal blue... I buy a new can for every helmet. It only sprays for a short time until it starts sputtering like mad.

You could extract the paint from the bottle and airbrush it.

  1. Gather the necessary items: a straw, the spray can, large cup of hot water, and collecting jar
  2. Cut the straw to a short length such that the contents of the spray can do not need to travel too far, and has less surface area to get attached.
  3. Submerge the spray can into the hot water, which will warm the can up. This helps the extraction of the paint
  4. Once the can is warmed up properly, place the straw over the spray can nozzle, and point the other end of the straw into the collecting jar and spray.
  5. When the can becomes cold and the spray can starts to spray less paint, reheat the can by submerging it back into the hot water
  6. Continue to fill the collecting jar, but stop when the bottle is half full.
  7. Using a stainless steel stirring rod or bamboo stiring rod; place the rod into the jar. At this point you can stop and let the collected paint degas on it's own with the rod sticking into the paint and leaving the jar open. Or you can facilitate the degasing process.
  8. To facilitate the degasing process, carefully stir the paint using the rod. The liquid will bubble up as the gas escapes and the bottle will cool down considerably during this process. When the bottle cools, submerge it into the hot water to warm up the bottle.
  9. Once the bottle is warmed up, stir carefully to continue the degasing process. This process will need to be cycled through a couple of times to help degas the liquid.
  10. Once the liquid has been degased properly, it is ready for use in the airbrush. Thinning is usually not necessary. However, when filling the airbrush cup, only fill it half way, as there may still be gas in the liquid and the airbrushing process make turn the liquid volitle and you will have a nice little exploded mess of paint.
 
Belton RALs are the way to go, im pretty shore (if the didnt use air brush) that the original painters of jango went this way ,
there a few resons i say this mainly cos you couldnt get those paint brands in sydney at the time and the hard were up the road from fox studios (isenbergs miter ten) was the only place you could buy any spray paints other then 2 dollar shop paint at the time and the Krylons were availible at the time butr the colours were in the osha range and i think i own the only krylon ocean blue ever sold over here, along with the fact that the pin stripping is only sold in the metric mesurments over here so 3ml pin is what i think is the only corect possiblity,
Sorry to get of topic but i realy think that if you are going for an acurate jango you must take the facts in to acount,
Also the DVS2K2 way forsetting the key slots is gennious im puilling my slots of and doing them that way
 
I meant for him to use the 1/8 pin striping as masking tape... You can go around curves with it easily. Its what I usually do for my helmets, so I don't have to sit there for an hour with scissors trying to cut curves into painters tape.
 
I meant for him to use the 1/8 pin striping as masking tape... You can go around curves with it easily. Its what I usually do for my helmets, so I don't have to sit there for an hour with scissors trying to cut curves into painters tape.


Pin striping to help with the mask is a hell of a idea you would be able to get the curves just right!
 
you make a valid argument. a lot of people get crackle when they put the royal blue over the ocean blue too. it may have something to do with the altitude i'm at or the lack of humidity in the mountains.

i've used all sorts of different primers and i've found i get best results when i sand them with a high grit before i put any color down. it's just part of my process for painting now.

Turns out it was indeed the primer. I lightly sanded over the area with 600 grit and then 0000 steel wool paint went on much better!
 
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