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  1. Kivas's Avatar
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    Dec 2, 2005, 10:25 AM - Jango rf stalk help please #1

    Hi All,

    I've done a search on the boards looking for how people are attaching alluminum stalk to their jango buckets..

    I would like it to be moveable, but I've seen some pics that I then need to add a piece to build the ear up 1st? which would then mean sanding the cap down so that it stays flush?
    If possible I will also be going with the magnets route to hold the ear cap on.

    This is something I need to figure out prior to doing any primer paint etc

    What have you done with yours? and how has it worked for you?

    I don't have my ref cd as yet so please bear with me

    thanks
  2. Kivas's Avatar
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    Dec 2, 2005, 11:36 AM - Re: Jango rf stalk help please #2

    Anyone?
  3. JangoUri's Avatar
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    Dec 2, 2005, 11:53 AM - Re: Jango rf stalk help please #3

    Give them time
  4. Kivas's Avatar
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    Dec 2, 2005, 9:09 PM - Re: Jango rf stalk help please #4

    Can anyone point me in the right direction or share what the've done? please.
  5. Cruzer's Avatar
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    Dec 2, 2005, 11:47 PM - Re: Jango rf stalk help please #5

    Still looking for ideas on how to make the rf movable on a JD bucket? Let me know and I can post pics of what I initially did with my JD rf and bucket(very easy)...that is before I went crazy.

    Cruzer
    Last edited by Cruzer; Dec 3, 2005 at 10:39 AM.
  6. Kivas's Avatar
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    Dec 3, 2005, 12:18 PM - Re: Jango rf stalk help please #6

    Yes please Cruzer
  7. JangoUri's Avatar
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    Dec 3, 2005, 1:23 PM - Re: Jango rf stalk help please #7

    You should explain that here cruzer, cuz Im also interested
  8. Cruzer's Avatar
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    Dec 3, 2005, 5:02 PM - Re: Jango rf stalk help please #8

    All right here are some pics.

    Here's what I'd do if I were you:

    1. Scratch up the inside of that groove for the rf with some 60 grit sandpaper.
    2. Mix up a small bit of bondo or Fiberglass resin jelly and fill in the groove.
    3. Sand the area smooth so that both the sides and filled in groove are flush and so that area is vertical.
    4. Cut out the pieces that are the same shape as the ear cap (give yourself
    some excess so that you can sand it smooth later) and superglue together
    with superglue. I used two pieces of 1/8" Lexicon plastic from Home Depot.
    You could also use 1/8" sintra. I have some extra of both if you need me
    to mail you a few pieces. Just pay for postage.
    5. Cut out the area of movement for your rf stalk on the glued pieces in step
    4. I drilled a small hole in the rf stalk and used a small temporary screw to
    hold the stalk in place so that I could mark the area I wanted the stalk to
    move in.
    6. Glue those pieces to the earcap.
    7. Sand the edges flush and you'll have exactly what I have in the pics.

    Then you have to decide how you want to attach the earcap to the helmet. I think I remember you mentioning magnets. To me that's niffty, but screws from the inside will be more secure and solid.

    Here's what I would do.
    1. Position the earcap to the helmet exacty where you want it and outline it
    on the helmet in pencil. Remove the earcap and drill three to four pilot holes
    through the inside of the helmet.
    2. Reposition the earcap onto it's outline and make some marks from the
    inside of the helmet, through the holes, and on the earcap piece.
    3. Drill some very shallow pilot holes (smaller than the helmet's pilot holes in
    the earcap being carful not to go through.
    4. Get some screws (I'd use size 6 or 8 metal screws because of their small
    size and course thead) that will fit in the helmet's pilot holes
    and screw them through the helmet.
    5. Reposition your earcap onto the helmet and screw the screws into
    the earcap. Be sure to hold the earcap tightly against the helmet when you
    first screw the screws in so that you get a tight seal.

    A couple of notes: I would use some small washers on each side of my rf stalk where the screw(the one that will go throught the rf stalk and hold it in place) comes through so that there is some clearance when the stalk moves up and down so it doesn't scratch off the paint. You'll need to make sure there is plenty of clearance in the area between the helmet and the earcap piece. I would use the same type of screws I used to attach the earcap to the helmet (or even smaller) to go through the hole of the rf stalk since the stalk is so skinny.

    Hope that makes sense.

    I can't show you more than what I have already done because that's how far I have gotten and I'm going in a different direction. But that's what I'd do if you didn't want to get into creating an earcap identical to Bobamaker's Jango helmet project like I'm currently doing. I'll be working on it today so I could post update pics if you wanted.

    Let me know if you have any ?s
    Cruzer
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    Last edited by Cruzer; Dec 3, 2005 at 5:09 PM.
  9. Member Since
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    Dec 3, 2005, 11:20 PM - Re: Jango rf stalk help please #9

    Great advice, Cruzer.

    Also, make sure your stalk movement is somewhat stiff OR have a way of
    securing it in the upright position. I'm not speaking from personal experience,
    but I'm sure anyone who has a moving stalk will agree. You don't want it
    falling down everytime your head tilts forward. It's enough of a pain when
    the stalk on my Riddell mini-helmet does that.

    Joren Fett
  10. Kivas's Avatar
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    Dec 3, 2005, 11:40 PM - Re: Jango rf stalk help please #10

    Wow. very nice write up.. Thank you so much


    Edit - I am also planning on going with a alluminium stalk as well...

    I would be more than happy to look at any photos of your progess

    I never thought to look at the Bobamaker ear caps... duh..
    Last edited by Kivas; Dec 4, 2005 at 12:04 AM.

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