Jango Gauntlet Blades - Screencaps inside

The pivot points needed to be moved in order for everything to retract fully. The wide blade should retract straight down if possible by gearing its sides.

blades_template4.jpg
 
Here you go. The left blade had to be moved outward on the pivot point a bit which is no big deal and is actually better placed according to the real thing.

All we need to know is the maximum value for X and Y and then scale the blades accordingly for functional gauntlets.

blades_template5.jpg
 
This all looks very complicated so Im glad someone else understands it. Shockwave appears as though you have something pretty cool in the works.

MMM anymore word on your design.
 
:lol:

In other words, I need to know how much space there is to work with inside a popular gauntlet. I actually need X, Y, and Z (length, width, and height) inside the side of a guantlet.

mgr even though I lose you here and there, I couldn't do it without you around to keep me going :) .
 
That picture is one of two things:
1. An extremely agressive dog downing a guy on the run.
or
2. An extremely sexually agressive dog downing a guy on the run.
Either way im scared.
 
and is that a rottweiler at the top of the screen???? my rottweilers teeth don't look like that!!!! :)
 
No, thats Shockwaves mind going mad trying to figure this thing out!:lol:. Man, you guys (MMM included) are on to something that I didn't think could possibly be done.WOW!:eek:. Next thing would be the grappling line!:D
Not to be a pooper, what do you think the weight added to the gauntlet might be?


p.s. More weathering for Seeker;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As for added weight, I'm figuring that just the added apparatus(including armature, blades, spring, etc.) if done in aluminum would weigh several ounces. No more than 25 or so. I think it would be considerably more with the gear assembly method, but still relatively light.
 
Prototype 2, Patent Pending ;)

Corrections:
All blades eject and retract in the correct direction
All blades are properly geared to eject and retract in sync.

Inaccuracies:
Proportions and blades dimensions
Layering order
LEGOs :)

Getting better....

blades_proto02a.jpg

blades_proto02b.jpg

blades_proto02c.jpg

blades_proto02d.jpg
 
would it be possible to add a small motor to those with a remote or button control
By the way those kick major butt you guys. I want some Jango gauntlets now just to have those.
 
A motor is absolutely possible....small motor, 3 way switch, and a 9 volt is all you would need. Nothing like functional switches. I can only put so much time into this right now, but I think we have proven that it is possible. Props to MMM for taking the initiative. As far as my design goes, the next steps would start with knowing the available space to work with. The blades could then be accurately scaled and cut from the templates. The measurements between the pivot points could then be transfered to the body of the mechanism, replacing the black legos with a piece of aluminum or other suitable base. Gears....where to get the gears....I don't know because I haven't looked yet but the thinner the gears the better. Everything as thin as possible. I think it would also be better to mount the gears between two pieces rather than on the outside wall. With them completely enclosed, only the pivoting arms and blades would be exposed. Perhaps very thin walls could also be put outside the blades to completely encase everything. I picture the final design as looking like a simple rectangle where everything pops out. Honestly, I really had no idea what I was doing but I just visualized it really well and got to this point. Anyways, I'll work on it more (and I'll weather is more for SEEKER), but I also need to work on my armor :) . Feel free to use the design if you have time (just give me one if you finish it before me :lol: ). You could even bypass all the gearing and stuff and just have them independently swivel and lock into place somehow. The gearing is just cool because the entire thing functions as one unit.
 
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