This is what I am talking about with bands for releasing the blades. Then a switch could be modified to hold and release the blades.
Yeah, that'd work very well. I'd probably substitute springs to avoid the hassle of having to replace old or worn elastics. Glad you could "use" my model :D .
Ya you are right, springs are better. Your model is very good, hope you don't mind me messing with it.
Yeah dudes! Go for it!!!
Ok check this out. Again, like MMM, this is very rough....just an idea I had which really looks like it will work well. All of the blades are just cardboard cutouts and are larger than they should be. The model was done roughly and definetely needs work....ok so here we go.
Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you, LEGOS!
Okay like I said the gearing needs work and the blades are not the right size (not to mention everything is taped). BUT i think gearing will work. Notice how the blades go in and out in different directions. Also, you can see how I cut a groove into one of the hooked blades to clear the gear rod. I cut it way to big but it works and you wouldnt see that area when installed. You may even be able to eliminate that if done correctly. Also, I intended for the wide blade to actually come straight up (which it can because the two gears in that area go in opposite directions and could force a geared blade up) but didn't have the time right now. I'll try to perfect this later.
I just realized my mistake. The hooked blades should come out from the right instead of the left. That would solve the problem and take less space.
That is some great thinking gang...
You guys are nuts :D lol..... looks good though.
oh yeah, LEGO's??????? ;)
You guys are scaring me! :wacko
If you weren't scared enough, here is a template for everyone that I took off those screenshots. The template only includes the visible area. The second one is color coded to demonstrate the layering of the blades (at least how I see it). In order for these all to fit, every blade needs to be thought of as a circle. If any two circles intersect, they need to be on separate layers. No one circle's radius can pass another circle's midpoint without needing to be mounted on it's own plane (like in the back of the black legos) or having a notch cut in it for clearance of the pivot point.
OOOOOOH! I get it:facepalm
(the pivot and intersecting circle stuff is so far beyond my comprehension it hurts my noodle)
This is what I mean (and why my mind hurts :) ).
nope.... WAIT A SECOND!....nope
:lol hehe sorry, sometimes I get this way. I'm gonna take a break.
Actually, now that I look at I see where your coming from;)
The pivot points needed to be moved in order for everything to retract fully. The wide blade should retract straight down if possible by gearing its sides.
My goodness Brak's, what have you started here?! :lol
Now I definitely understand.
So when will the prototype be done?
Here you go. The left blade had to be moved outward on the pivot point a bit which is no big deal and is actually better placed according to the real thing.
All we need to know is the maximum value for X and Y and then scale the blades accordingly for functional gauntlets.
This all looks very complicated so Im glad someone else understands it. Shockwave appears as though you have something pretty cool in the works.
MMM anymore word on your design.
You lost me with the X and Y stuff....
In other words, I need to know how much space there is to work with inside a popular gauntlet. I actually need X, Y, and Z (length, width, and height) inside the side of a guantlet.
mgr even though I lose you here and there, I couldn't do it without you around to keep me going :) .
Actually, I hadn't put any more thought into it. Figured I had tossed the bone into the cage and the rest of you dogs could fight over it :lol .