Jango Gauntlet Blades - Screencaps inside

OK, I would LOVE to see someone make these!!! Here are a bunch of screen caps for them. Unfortunately there is no single picture that shows them perfectly so you will probably have to do a composite...

Attachment 45983 Attachment 45984 Attachment 45985
Attachment 45986 Attachment 45987 Attachment 45988
Attachment 45989

Please note that although this pic is very nice it isn't straight on so the angles are going to be a bit off if you use this as your template. the above pictures are much better for that. This pic is good for seeing how it all comes together and fits on the gaunt.

Attachment 45990

You want us to make something CG?
:)

I've heard guys talkin about having moving blades on their Predator gauntlets and maybe someone could get these to do that also. That would be awesome. I might even make a Jango just to have these.

Here you go, threw together a quick idea for you out of aluminum.
Now where are those Boba pouch measurements I've been waiting for? ;)

http://home.attbi.com/~t.markham/wsb...6/site1133.jpg

Whoa!

That is sweet man...

my turn ! Just saw this post and thought it would be a fun lunchtime project :

http://www-scf.usc.edu/~jsalcedo/jfk1.jpg

http://www-scf.usc.edu/~jsalcedo/jfk2.jpg

Blades are looking sweet people !!

Now all we need is someone to make a set that work !!
As in 'pop' in and out of the gauntlets !!:D

CD:jango

Not likely considering the side housing of most of ours are solid resin. Plus you want that side piece on pretty strong, so it doesn't come off. I used all the glue in the world to try to keep it on, and in the end I had to use screws.

It's Turo's turn !!!!

nice blades, but the end blade if you look at the real deal doesnt stick out to the left of the gauntlet that much, so its able to pop in and out

so proportion people proportion!!!!!!

Even the fact that that far left blade is so large is more evidence that something like this is impossible to make. Just like the idea that R2 has rockets in his legs. Physically impossible.

Those look great guys. I think it'd be tight to have a set of blades like that, and have them able to vecro or snap into place for photo ops. You could hide them in....um....**** Jango and his pouchless pants...

I've been studying.......and I think that if I was to build some gauntlets from scratch with this feature in mind, that I could make these blades retractable. Don't get me wrong, it'd be alot of work, but I see it as do-able.

I don't know. From the screen caps, it looks like they're coming out of the part that holds the sabre dart and tubes for the hoses - not the bottom of the top half of the gaunt. Obviously, there's no way those blades would fit in there, but that's what it looks like they did.

I see it as 5 separate blades. The four from the bottom fold independently forward, while the topmost in the pics folds towards the back. Their width should fit into that part of the gauntlet, IMHO. Each respective blade is on its own pivot point originating on the axis from which it would be at full extension.

I really think this could work. I've created more complicated stuff than this. The hardest part is finding a lock-open/lock-closed system. But, that too can be figured out.

I've got it! The four lower blades can be operated by one slide lever that is articulated to each piece with a pin, while at the same time each blade is pivoting on a pin as its axis. The forward one would simply work in reverse. Rearmost blades; push the lever forward, foremost blade; pull its lever back.

Sounds like MMM's got the right idea. Where would you put the lever and how big would it have to be.

Gotta take my mother in for cataract surgery this morning, but when I get time later I'll sketch up a rough illustration of my theory.

http://home.mchsi.com/~laughinggravy...ademockupO.jpghttp://home.mchsi.com/~laughinggravy...demockupCa.jpg

Ok, kiddos. I had a couple hours to spare between hospital dropoff/pickup, so I busted out a wood mock-up of my idea. I want to make it VERY clear that this was slapped together, and a quality piece would need more time and better calculations. This, however, does prove that it can be done.

I will stress some points;
1. The distance of "A" is to be exactly the same on every piece connected to the same armature. If not, the throw (radius of the arc) will be off and the device will not move.

2. If the side-lever design is unacceptable, then another alternative is to extend "bar 1" towrds the bottom of the picture where it can be activated by a push/pull means.

3. Using the thinner medium of metal, the blades would have a slight upturn to their facing edge, like on a propeller. Thus facilitating the blade passing over the one next to it in the retraction process.

4. Further improving the design, I would perhaps lengthen the radius of "A" to increase leverage.

5. The missing forward blade could be attached in a similar fashion using it's own lever because it would need to sweep in the opposite direction to save space. Alternatives do exist with more design modifications.

6) Some good old fashioned tweaking is in order to assure a smoothly operational apparatus. Measurements should be calculated and proper scale determined before committing to the actual cutting phase.


Hope this helps. :)

Then you need to figure out how you're going to get the larger sized blades to fit inside the side housing, without either making the blades smaller, or enlarging the side housing. ;)

It appears to me from the original photos that the blades are layers rather than on a single plane. This would explain a collapsable retraction. I like the levering idea. Another solution may be a wire system that works like a spring loaded fishing reel. If the reel could be forced to rewind and the blades were forced to eject with spring tension, the entire device may be able to fit inside. Another possibility of course would be an RC car servo connected to one of the existing switches on the gauntlet.

Again, it is important to understand that modifications must be made to my wooden model.

If you look at the width of the widest blade in the screencaps, to me at least, it appears as though this would fit inside the gauntlet housing.
Study my model. It is obvious that the base piece can be AT LEAST half as wide as it is.
Also, as per my explanation in my previous post, when made of metal and thinner, the blades would have a slight upturn on their facing edge. They would, in closing, pass over the pivot point of the one next to them(this point being the four right ones in my pic). The closing needn't actually stop until both parallel bars close on each other. This should illustrate that the housing need only be SLIGHTLY wider than the widest part of the widest blade.
If calculated properly and adjusted in design, the finished piece would fold into an entire package as wide as the widest blade.

I am about to go grab some lunch but I just thought of something that could be simpler...rubber bands. Bands could work with the lever method but would delete the need for the post.

Right on MMM!! Sounds like you're on the right track!!!

:thumbsup

This is what I am talking about with bands for releasing the blades. Then a switch could be modified to hold and release the blades.

http://www.chromacast.com/jango/fettblades_2.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/fettblades_1.jpg

Yeah, that'd work very well. I'd probably substitute springs to avoid the hassle of having to replace old or worn elastics. Glad you could "use" my model :D .

Ya you are right, springs are better. Your model is very good, hope you don't mind me messing with it.

Yeah dudes! Go for it!!!

:D

Ok check this out. Again, like MMM, this is very rough....just an idea I had which really looks like it will work well. All of the blades are just cardboard cutouts and are larger than they should be. The model was done roughly and definetely needs work....ok so here we go.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you, LEGOS!

http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades01.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades02.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades03.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades04.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades05.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades06.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades07.jpg

Okay like I said the gearing needs work and the blades are not the right size (not to mention everything is taped). BUT i think gearing will work. Notice how the blades go in and out in different directions. Also, you can see how I cut a groove into one of the hooked blades to clear the gear rod. I cut it way to big but it works and you wouldnt see that area when installed. You may even be able to eliminate that if done correctly. Also, I intended for the wide blade to actually come straight up (which it can because the two gears in that area go in opposite directions and could force a geared blade up) but didn't have the time right now. I'll try to perfect this later.

I just realized my mistake. The hooked blades should come out from the right instead of the left. That would solve the problem and take less space.

WOW!
That is some great thinking gang...

You guys are nuts :D lol..... looks good though.



oh yeah, LEGO's??????? ;)

Appolo-

You guys are scaring me! :wacko

If you weren't scared enough, here is a template for everyone that I took off those screenshots. The template only includes the visible area. The second one is color coded to demonstrate the layering of the blades (at least how I see it). In order for these all to fit, every blade needs to be thought of as a circle. If any two circles intersect, they need to be on separate layers. No one circle's radius can pass another circle's midpoint without needing to be mounted on it's own plane (like in the back of the black legos) or having a notch cut in it for clearance of the pivot point.

http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades_template.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades_template2.jpg

OOOOOOH! I get it:doh

(the pivot and intersecting circle stuff is so far beyond my comprehension it hurts my noodle)

This is what I mean (and why my mind hurts :) ).

http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades_template3.jpg

AAAAAHHHHAAAAAAAA!

nope.... WAIT A SECOND!....nope

:lol hehe sorry, sometimes I get this way. I'm gonna take a break.

Actually, now that I look at I see where your coming from;)

The pivot points needed to be moved in order for everything to retract fully. The wide blade should retract straight down if possible by gearing its sides.

http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades_template4.jpg

My goodness Brak's, what have you started here?! :lol

Now I definitely understand.
So when will the prototype be done?

Here you go. The left blade had to be moved outward on the pivot point a bit which is no big deal and is actually better placed according to the real thing.

All we need to know is the maximum value for X and Y and then scale the blades accordingly for functional gauntlets.

http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades_template5.jpg

This all looks very complicated so Im glad someone else understands it. Shockwave appears as though you have something pretty cool in the works.

MMM anymore word on your design.

OK
You lost me with the X and Y stuff....

:lol

In other words, I need to know how much space there is to work with inside a popular gauntlet. I actually need X, Y, and Z (length, width, and height) inside the side of a guantlet.

mgr even though I lose you here and there, I couldn't do it without you around to keep me going :) .

HA!
Thanks man:D

Actually, I hadn't put any more thought into it. Figured I had tossed the bone into the cage and the rest of you dogs could fight over it :lol .

http://www.guarddogtraining.com.au/a...ob_4_small.jpg

That picture is one of two things:
1. An extremely agressive dog downing a guy on the run.
or
2. An extremely sexually agressive dog downing a guy on the run.
Either way im scared.

and is that a rottweiler at the top of the screen???? my rottweilers teeth don't look like that!!!! :)

No, thats Shockwaves mind going mad trying to figure this thing out!:lol. Man, you guys (MMM included) are on to something that I didn't think could possibly be done.WOW!:suprise. Next thing would be the grappling line!:D
Not to be a pooper, what do you think the weight added to the gauntlet might be?
:jango

p.s. More weathering for Seeker;)

As for added weight, I'm figuring that just the added apparatus(including armature, blades, spring, etc.) if done in aluminum would weigh several ounces. No more than 25 or so. I think it would be considerably more with the gear assembly method, but still relatively light.

Prototype 2, Patent Pending ;)

Corrections:
All blades eject and retract in the correct direction
All blades are properly geared to eject and retract in sync.

Inaccuracies:
Proportions and blades dimensions
Layering order
LEGOs :)

Getting better....

http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades_proto02a.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades_proto02b.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades_proto02c.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/blades_proto02d.jpg

Sweeeeeeeet!
I'll take one please

would it be possible to add a small motor to those with a remote or button control
By the way those kick major butt you guys. I want some Jango gauntlets now just to have those.

A motor is absolutely possible....small motor, 3 way switch, and a 9 volt is all you would need. Nothing like functional switches. I can only put so much time into this right now, but I think we have proven that it is possible. Props to MMM for taking the initiative. As far as my design goes, the next steps would start with knowing the available space to work with. The blades could then be accurately scaled and cut from the templates. The measurements between the pivot points could then be transfered to the body of the mechanism, replacing the black legos with a piece of aluminum or other suitable base. Gears....where to get the gears....I don't know because I haven't looked yet but the thinner the gears the better. Everything as thin as possible. I think it would also be better to mount the gears between two pieces rather than on the outside wall. With them completely enclosed, only the pivoting arms and blades would be exposed. Perhaps very thin walls could also be put outside the blades to completely encase everything. I picture the final design as looking like a simple rectangle where everything pops out. Honestly, I really had no idea what I was doing but I just visualized it really well and got to this point. Anyways, I'll work on it more (and I'll weather is more for SEEKER), but I also need to work on my armor :) . Feel free to use the design if you have time (just give me one if you finish it before me :lol ). You could even bypass all the gearing and stuff and just have them independently swivel and lock into place somehow. The gearing is just cool because the entire thing functions as one unit.

Has anyone ever taken apart a Swiss Army Knife and see how it works? Thats basically what this is.

I'll take one also when you're done :)

Is there really enough room in the gauntlets for those things? It would seem to me that it wouldn't really fit. Although, who am I to say? I've never had a pair of gauntlets yet. Still, I'm curious how that would work.

O.K....this looks like a very strong reality! I'm going to sound like a pooper again...but if we go with the gear set-up, would a much larger main gear connected to smaller gears give the setup that fast WHOOSH!! Ka-CHING!:suprise kind of pop-out?(O.K...maybe not that fast.) Reason I ask is if a small motor is concealed in the guantlet how much R.P.M. do you think would be needed and was wondering about the load capability from a taller gear to a smaller gear would be too much for a small motor. I have thought of some types of small battery operated motors from the likes of small race cars to the even smaller motors that operate toothbrushes. Both ShockWaves and MMMs designs are great even though the working designs went a little over my head at times!:rolleyes
Looking at both designs, I know both can work! Helms off to both of you!:thumbsup

Again, sorry about sounding off as a pooper but I'm really positive about the whole thing!:D
:jango

You have to remember this is a concept. As it is, as LEGOs, no it won't fit because it is to deep. However, the width and height are very close. I have GA gauntlets and I don't know for sure but I think they are a bit smaller than others. Now say I replace the LEGOs, which are about the width of a CD case, with sheet metal/aluminum which could be considerably thinner. Also, the gears are about the same width. Replace those with narrow gears. There are 6 layers total in the concept.

<font color="black">`````````````------------------
<font color="black">````````````|<font color="black">`````-------------------
<font color="black">`___________|_____|_________________ _________________
|_________________________________________________ ___|
<font color="black">``|<font color="black">`````````````````````````-------------------<font color="black">```````|
<font color="black">```-----------------------------------------<font color="black">``````````````````|
<font color="black">```````````````````--------------------------------------------

Hopefully that comes out right. Anyways, the dotted lines are the blades. This is why I am saying the layering is still wrong (although its really not a big deal, but not accurate in my eye). Compare the blade layering to the color coded diagram I made earlier. Optimumly, this is what I want (all squished together as much as possible)...

__________________________________________________ _______
<font color="black">``{}---------------------------------<font color="black">```{--------------------}
<font color="black">````````````````````{}--------------------------
<font color="black">``````````{}------------------------<font color="black">`-----------------------------------------{}
__________________________________________________ _______

(Okay those took a LONG time to do :) )

In any case, the Legos cause this device to be wider than it needs to.....similar to the diagram. But if you can eliminate all that space in between and narrow the main wall that they are attached to, the total depth would be decreased significantly...enough so that it should fit inside the Gauntlet. Of course there are space limitations and possible Gauntlet modifications necessary, but with something like this you should not think of why it won't work but rather why it will. That's why I asked for measurements. With them, I can create accurate dimension and perhaps a 3D CAD model of the real thing.

Regarding the torque of motors vs gears, I really don't know the answer. Mini motors like the ones for those TINY cars probably wont be enough. But bump that up to the motors for, say, a Mini RS4 or Kyosho Mini-Z, now thats definetely enough (probably too much) torque and speed.

Picture of Kyosho Mini-Z to get an idea of motor size...
http://www.miniracer.de/viper_handsmall.jpg


Even without a motor, you could spin a gear manually (or push and pull the wide blade) and everything would pop out. With MMM's you could move the lever. A motor would be awesome, and possible, but I see it as a second phase after the mechanics are solid.

I just have to say how impressed I am with the ideas here. I would have no clue so I am glad to see others working this one out. I too am interested in one if this does become a reality. Nice work guys!!!

Thanks Mirax!

I have put alot of time and effort into this:D

WOW! I am blown away by how far you guys have taken this!!! Here is the prob I see.... you are NEVER going to get that inside the right gaunt (the gaunt we see it coming out of in the film. However, the large rectangular laser housing on the LEFt gaunt would be a PERFECT place to store the motor AND gears as well as the retracted blades! The blades would simply fold out of a slot near the joint between the laser housing and the gauntlet body. I wish we could make it would on the right gaunt but I just don't see that happening... :(

Hmmm......Just out of curiousity, could we somehow get a life-size directly-overhead pic of the fantastic-uber-cool-new-age-of-Fett gauntlets currently available? A pic of each would be sufficient. Would give an idea of the parameters to work within. If the pic could show an arm, or better yet, a well-known item (I like to use a cd) that we could judge dimensions from, it would help.

Check my site out and see if there is something that will work for you , if not I can take more pics of those very gauntlets :)

mgr you da man! :)

I totally agree with the left Gauntlet being the easy one (and probably the best place to start). Now when I held this up to a Gauntlet for sizing though, I was using the right one (GA). It will not fit inside the small piece that attaches to the side, but it MAY fit inside the right Gauntlet housing itself and eject at a slight angle outward between the main Gauntlet housing and side piece.

I'm with MMM...it really comes down to measurements.

How much space is in the left gauntlet flamethrower case?
How much space is in the right gauntlet beside the arm (on the outer edge)?

LxWxH= a definite answer of how it can be done

If anyone takes these measurements, please specify which Gauntlets you are using and take internal measurements, not external.

Just look at my post on the first page. You'll see the uber cool gauntlet that you're talking about, in my own example of the blades. Of course, it looks like I totally over reacted with the blade scale. But you'll see just how narrow it can get by the whip cord area.

I really need measurement, as in 50mmx150mmx300mm kind of measurements.

Yeah, or straight-on pics....not 3/4 shots.

Actually, from Mirax's pics, I think it could actually be done with a pair of the super-gauntlets. If planned correctly, I don't think any visible outer mods need to be made. The inside would really have to be chopped-up and rebuilt though.

I have so many irons in the fire right now, that it will be a long ways down the road before I even think about attempting this. ...But I DO think it can be accomplished.

Ask, and you shall receive.

http://200.72.134.171/cdref/tdh/img/g1.jpg
http://200.72.134.171/cdref/tdh/img/g2.jpg
http://200.72.134.171/cdref/tdh/img/g3.jpg
http://200.72.134.171/cdref/tdh/img/g4.jpg
http://200.72.134.171/cdref/tdh/img/g5.jpg

Thanks secol_FETT!!

Couldn't be more perfect with those views!!!! :) Thanks, SC. I'm even more convinced now. BTW, I'll say it again at the risk of repeating myself, but those new gauntlets are freaking amazing.

Not to mention that the area where that metal bar goes across. That area has no possibly hay of hiding anything inside, are area between it and the gauntlet is like 1 mm!

http://hometown.aol.com/irishou812/thumbsup.gif

Great pictures.

This is how I see the blades in the right gauntlet.

http://www.chromacast.com/jango/g2a.jpg
http://www.chromacast.com/jango/g2b.jpg

Wanted to bring this back up in case any new engineers are passing by...

Hey Fellas. I don't know if any of you have looked but on theproppalace they say they have "deluxe gauntlets" that have "retractable metal blades." IF someone has 300 bones to drop on a set of these gauntlets we can figure out a possible solution to the engineering problem we are facing. Or if anyone knows how to get a hold of these guys to find out if they actually do retract or if its just a line that would be helpful too. Anyhow I just thought I'd drop off that information. I'm not really an engineer but I'm studying to be one and I've enjoyed studying these designs. So heres to developing a prototype.

The creative talent displayed in this thread is fantastic!!
Helmets off to you guys for figuring out how-to from a bunch of pics and a few seconds screen time!!

Has anybody had any luck getting one to work yet?

The extent of my time that I put into this ended with my last post in this thread. Without having a set of gauntlets to work with, and not being ready to make mine yet, I figured I had gone as far as I wanted to.

I have tossed the concept around in my head on occasion while driving on Southern California's freeways :D , but have yet to go any farther than the wooden mock-up from the very first day. I haven't canned the project, just postponed it until I am at that stage of my outfett. I will most definitely keep the board apprised of any developments.

I wonder if TPP didn't jack our designs. Not that they're very technologically advanced as far as designs go, but just that no interest seemed present in this feature until Brak's posted here and we tossed some ideas around. Given the time elapsed, allowing for R&D, the timeframe suggests a bit of "borrowing" of our initial ideas ;) . We'll see....

Ya well see I guess if they actually do exist. A little thanks our way would sure be nice :) . I'm in the same boat. I have very limited time and and trying to work on my own armor first when I have the time. Also, my Gauntlets are smaller than those really accurate ones, so they wouldn't make for the best model. A lot of my friends have told me to pursue finishing this, but it's just a matter of time. At least hopefully all of our R&D will keep people inspired, that's really what it's all about.

If there weren't already a lot up, I would say that this thread warrants an offical sticky.

Don't worry, we'll keep this one around here :)

Speaking of Jango gaunt gadgets, has anyone thought of using a CO2 canister to propel the grappeling hook? It might work.

That sounds safe!:lol

darksidedesign

Yes, quite. Safety is not my concern. Coolness is.

Hey, why do the blades have to be exclusive to Jango, who's to say Boba doesnt have them. Just because he never used them in the movies doesnt mean anything. I think boba's got almost everything Jango does.

Those blades are looking awesome by the way.

The best way to find out would be to look inside the Sarlaac for scarring ;)

I am working on some jango style blades for my gauntlets. What do you guys think?
<img src=http://200.72.163.179/cdref/tdh/Jango/gauntblades2.jpg>
<img src=http://200.72.163.179/cdref/tdh/Jango/bladecompare.jpg>

I think it's a great idea!
If only they could be spring loaded.

There is a lot of info here http://tdh.prop-planet.com/viewtopic...c=3965&forum=9

Spring loaded would be kick ***. I have my brain working on it:D

Very cool Idea:)

~Bobby

Well, no springs but I came up with a way to attach them without making it permanent. I put two little magnets I believe they are natural earth magnets. Vary powerful. I put two in the side piece that holds the dart. Then i put two on the blades witch i have glued a baking on.:D
<img src=http://200.72.163.179/cdref/tdh/General/blades1.jpg>
<img src=http://200.72.163.179/cdref/tdh/General/blades2.jpg>
<img src=http://200.72.163.179/cdref/tdh/Jango/jblades2.jpg>
<img src=http://200.72.163.179/cdref/tdh/General/blades3.jpg>
<img src=http://200.72.163.179/cdref/tdh/General/blades4.jpg>
<img src=http://200.72.163.179/cdref/tdh/General/blades5.jpg>
<img src=http://200.72.163.179/cdref/tdh/General/blades6.jpg>

That's pretty neat! You may be one of the first or the first to sport the blades. We went over this on a similar topic a while back on how to make them retract but that went ZOOM over my head. Still, whether they retract or not, it's kickin! The option to add or remove them when needed is a good idea as the movie version was CGI stuff. Thanks for sharing and show us when it's all done!:thumbsup

anyone ever finish a set? or anyone have pics that still work?

The pics of my set is still working for me. You can't see them thunderbolt885? I have them painted now. I will try to get some pics up soon.

ouch I moved hosts and forgot about all these pictures...**** that was a lot of dev time too. Maybe I can find them again for someone because the measurements were exact for retraction.