Thanks for the interest guys. The estimated prices I'm looking at right now are $250 for gel-coat, and around $350 for cold-cast. The price jump for cold cast is due to the high expense of the aluminum powder and the additional time it's taking to work with cold cast. I'm also looking into a third possibility of resin cast gauntlet shells (no fiberglass) as a low end option for around $175-$200. In addition, I'm looking at the possibility of offering a variety of missiles in light weight Feather Lite resin, a slightly heavier/sturdier Smooth Cast resin, and hopefully flexible urethane similar to the well known "hyperfirm" material.
Here are a few pics of what I was able to do with the first gel-coat pulls after about 4-6 hours of work. I wanted to do a dry-fit of everything before applying the final coat of primer. I'll be putting them up for sale soon to build some funds to order more materials. I also have a second set of gel-coat pulls made if anyone might be interested.
Last edited by Cruzer; Dec 27, 2007 at 6:06 PM.
Looking GREAT Cruzer! Hope I'm still on the list?
NICE!!! Just let me know when your ready to start production on the cold cast versions.
WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE BEST FOR ME? I CANT GET THE COLD CAST SO IM THINKING ABOUT THE OTHER SET. ARE THE GEL-COAT GOOD TO GO WITH?
I can make do with a set of the gel coats when ready. Just let me know.
Yeah, I have a second set of gel-coat shells already made and a full set of Smooth-Cast resin parts (slightly heavier, but harder material).
In truth, it's a toss up between the two types of resin that can be used for the attachment parts. For the lightest route, Feather Lite resin is perfect, but it's cured hardness in not as strong as the second alternative of Smooth-Cast resin. For someone who isn't hard on their gear then Feather Lite is perfect because it makes for some very light parts. Also, it's somewhat porous once the "skin" is broken, so it needs some minor filling and primering around the seam line areas if a smooth finish is desired.
In contrast, if someone wants to be able to be a little rougher on their gear then Smooth-Cast is good. This material is heavier, stronger, and more dense with less to no filling necessary around areas like the seam lines, etc.
I'll post some weight difference between the two materials later on, so you can get an idea of the weight each adds to the gauntlet shells. They're within pennies as far as cost, so there's no change in price.
With the fiberglass shells, Feather Lite parts, Dark-Side plastic missile and aluminum hardware you see in the pics above; the left gauntlet weighs in at 1 lb. 7.3 oz., and the right gauntlet weighs in at 1 lb. 1.1 oz. I'm picky when it comes to gauntlet weight, but for others it may not be a concern. If that's the case, then 2 coats of gel-coat make for some very durable but slightly heavier shells.
Last edited by Cruzer; Dec 27, 2007 at 6:37 PM.
Resin "only", would mean a thick coat of some type of casting resin with no fiberglass backing. It isn't as durable as fiberglass backed gel-coat.
Hope that answers your question.
I'm in for a set of gel-coat.
I finally finished the first pair! I know they're not cold-cast and my Rn'B job is nowhere near the amazing finishes some members here achieve, but it'll work for now.
In the pic of me wearing them, my gloves are a little thicker than the Nordstroms' gloves. Also for size reference, the distance between where my wrists and elbows break is approximately 10". I thought the right gauntlet would feel slightly long on me, but it actually fits perfectly after falling on my wrist a bit. The missile and aluminum darts are Dark-Side's and they all fit the gauntlets perfectly...which they should seeing as how the masters were made to fit his parts specifically.
Just a few final production details to figure out, and then I hope to post a gel-coat run thread by tomorrow. And don't worry, I'll fit everyone in who's interested.
I really appreciate the continued support and feedback throughout this entire project, guys. It helped tremendously in seeing this project through to the finish!:thumbup
Last edited by Cruzer; Dec 29, 2007 at 10:42 PM.
Wow, those look awesome!!!!
Ooohh, very nice!
Those look like Slavefive arms...hehehe
Too bad they won't fit me, I'd love to have a set.
Sorry I couldn't make them a little larger for you guys with bigger forearms. But I did try to make them a tad larger than screen size to accomodate more people. If I use the number of hinge links on the original gauntlets as a size indicator, then we were right on. On the originals it's 8 links on the left gauntlet and 11 links on the right. Those are exactly the number of links it takes to hinge these gauntlets up with Dark-Side's hinge. So I believe we got pretty close lengthwise.
Great Stuff as always Lorenzo !
I'm a bit curious as to how you tackled the casting of the flame box? This was a particular hassle when I was considering options. The reason I ask, is that in one of the pics you posted, I see a two part mold "part line" or "seam" that goes all the way around the middle of the box (lengthways). In my own experience, this will create an issue on the final casting for your "cold cast" versions when you get around to them. Obviously, not on the standard gel coat versions because there is no finish to speak of and gets sanded for primer anyway. But I would recommend trying to avoid having to sand any "seams" on your "cold cast" versions, as it will ruin the "virgin" layer of aluminum that settles toward the surface of the mold in the process (it's the shiniest when buffed after curing). This would mean that you might have to revisit how you made the mold for the flame box. Just a thought, or helpful suggestion. If you're interested in my solution if you don't already have one, hit me with a PM and I'll help you out in any way I can
Again, VERy nice work my friend
Hey FP. I look up to you as a great builder around here, and it is a huge honor for me to know you like them.
As for the mold, yeah, it is a two part as seen in the pic below, with a separate cap section for the front piece. The body then has to be hollowed. Originally I had both as one, but JB suggested I make them two when I took the molds to him. So we made some last minute modifications.
Well, my solution was this: You bring your amazing gauntlets out of retirement to offer folks cold-cast versions. At this time, I have come to like the expediency of gel-coat, fiberglass, and quick setting casting resin. The cold cast is a pain in the...rear, and I have yet to make a successful pull. But all of my molds are two piece, so there are seam lines in all of them.
In all genuine honesty, if you could bring yours out of retirement, I could sleep peacefully again!
I'll shoot you that PM.
Thanks for that Lorenzo, I appreciate that a lot ! But you sell yourself short. You are one talented guy !
I thought about bringing them back this year actually. But then I kinda of thought you had it covered ( and sighed a little relief )
Me bringing them "back" really isn't saying much tho, as there was ever only one set that went out the door. Yes, they are a pain. I'm glad someone else has got to experience that I just sent the second set in existence to Foxbat (it was a experimental pre-pro set I had, and I owed him )
If you really want me to, I will . I just didn't want to step on toes my friend, your gauntlets are beautiful !
Here's to ya
Ok, guys, a few more up close pics in the sun. I need to run down to Home Depot to get the correct paint so I can weather them.
Simply beautiful!! 8)
So beautiful in fact, I think that I just drooled all over my keyboard.
Last edited by Jango72; Dec 30, 2007 at 9:25 PM.
What kind of screws did you use when attaching the parts? And, did you predrill them I take it?
ive just noticed hinges on both sides of the insides of the gauntlets, left and right... how do you open them then....?
The inside is for the hinge, the outside is for latching purposes.
It is highly recommended to do it that way with fiberglass/resin gauntlets because it makes it safer that using velcro. I did that with my Boba gauntlets with a hinge to hold it closed.