Customizing a Rubies Jango Helmet

I am going the cheeper route my first time around so I am working on a cheep Rubies helmet. I cut out the keyslots and the visor so far.

I will update with my progress in case anyone wants to go the budget route in the future. Any assistance or advise is appreciated. I have already removed the rangefinder with a blow dryer and an exacto knife. My next step will be to spray it down with Rustoleum Plastic Primer and spray it silver.

Next Step: Rustoleum Plastic Primer:
Then: Rustoleum Metalic Silver, sand and apply second coat.

Hi bobafett669. I'm also going the cheaper route too. How did you cut your keyholes and visor out? Thanks. Also, what t-visor are you going to replace on the Rubies helmet? Thanks again.

Please keep me informed.

I cut them out with a very tiny exacto type knife I found at a craft store. A regular exacto knife blade was to flexable and hard to work with without cutting yourself. I cut the visor with that knife and one of the exacto knives that have sections of the blade you can breakoff to get to a new blade. I can post a pic of what I used next round. Not sure which visor to use yet. Some Tell me to get one from RA but they are $25.00.

I also used the sander on my dremel to file off the Rubies lettering on the back.

For the visor, look up "welding supply" in the yellow pages. Call em up and ask if they have the green welding visors (they should), that's the route I went with my Jango and Brandy's Fett Girl. There is also a guy on ebay who sells the hard plexiglass ones for like $10. Just do a search on fett visor.

Wes

hey i bought a welding visor shade #5 i think....i belive you "should" get a #3...not sure...anyway it cost me 7 bucks! local welding/firematics store

Can these welder's masks be shaped easily?

They're already curved for your mask...no shaping needed. they can be cut with scissors.

Looks great. One suggestion I would have is to stear clear of the "metallic" paints. Maybe yours worked out, but I tried about 3 different types with pretty bad results. If you do use it, don't touch it for quite some time. I am still a dull alum/rub n buff type.

I second what Shockwave said, the Metallic silver paints IMO look too fake, the aluminum paints look more realistic and less " shiney ".

OK here's where I am at now:


Looks pretty good for a Rubies hemet I think. I have some cleaning up to do where the tape marks did not exactly give me a rounded cheek. I have also installed Wire MEsh over the keyholes on back. I am now looking for a visor and already have the Ruff and Buff. I tested it on some silver sintra first to see if I liked it. I put it on with my fingers and started rubbing it off with tissues. This stuff is kind of like shoe polish. How do I keep the RNB from getting on the Blue sections once I start to do the helmet?

Tape them off.

If you get RNB on the blue parts, use dishwater soap and water to remove it, works really good.

bobafett669 wrote:
OK here's where I am at now:

The squint area looks very wide. Also changed?

T-Visor wrote:

bobafett669 wrote:
OK here's where I am at now:

The squint area looks very wide. Also changed?

What is "squint area"?

With "squint area", I mean the upper part of the visor. Looks definitely broader than normal, but maybe it's just me.

I have not installed a visor yet so the mask "flexes" when on the stand. I need to get a visor and then it might look a little better.

Cool i am using the same idea too i am still waiting thou i didn't get the helmet yet but i'm going to do sort of what u did once it is done i'll make it Green and the cheeks of the helmet will be black. I will have a thread up soon after about my helmet idea and help could be used.

lookin good bobafett, lookin good. i cant get my lettering to go away though!its a dp 96 and its filled and sanded smooth, you cant feel the lettering but with R n B it shows up some how, i dont know what to do :-P !

Ok, This is where i am at now. I have repainted the cheek areas as I missed the second coat. I taped off each silver area and applied 2 coats of RNB and It looks very good. The photos really don't do it justice. I would like to start weathering and I have the acrylic paint but I am not sure how much to water it down. i bought a natural sponge at Michael's I am going to try. How does everyone apply the black paint for weathering?

http://tdh.prop-planet.com/viewtopic...=10119&forum=9

This may sound weird/over exaggerating the whole concept of "Rubbing and Buffing," but what if I used a car buffer, the motorized ones, to apply the rub n buff? Would that buffer it up? Maybe too much? Any ideas? This would be done to the armor and helmet.

With the Rub n Buff, I find it easier to use the palm of my hand to buff off the RNB. The heat from your hand and the heat from the friction created actually help the RNB to "flow" a little bit easier over the surface you are finishing and it helps to create a more even coat. A good thing to have on hand are the Orange Clean wipes, though. They are good for cleaning yourelf up afterwards and then follow it up with a good handwashing.

alright I'll do it by hand. I better repaint the helmet (rubies) before I apply hte rub n buff. correct? And do I have to put a primer or whatever that stuff was before I paint it silver, then rub n buff it?

Thanks

When I painted my helmet, I primed it, wet sanded it with 400 grit to make it smooth again, painted the cheeks, wet sanded that, then painted the visor area, wet sanded that, and then sprayed 2 coats of a semi-gloss laquer over the blue areas and then gave that a light wet sanding in between coats. The wet sanding helps to remove some of the "orange peel" from the paint job and make it look baby bottom smooth.Then I Rub N Buffed the silver areas and then applied my pin striping.

I don't have a current photo of the stage I am in but I used a primer, then sprayed the whole thing with rustoleun Silver metallic. They taped it off and did the visor and cheak areas. I then did RNB on the silver parts taping a bprder between the silver and blue parts. Put RNB on with finger, rubbed off with a shoe mit, like the free ones the hotels give you in the rooms. I also rubbed it off with cotton balls as a recommendation from another member. I did not use and gloss or anything lie that. It just would make it to shiny.

Hello, I reccomend to modify the T visor (T-visor.com) of the Jango rubies helmet, the Epoxi 5 minutes glue, only you have to be carefull with the position of the visor to ensure the best place in order to have a better helmet work.........

Originally Posted by SNOWAURE

Hello, I reccomend to modify the T visor (T-visor.com) of the Jango rubies helmet, the Epoxi 5 minutes glue, only you have to be carefull with the position of the visor to ensure the best place in order to have a better helmet work.........

Are you aware you're responding to a thread that is over 5 years old?

jejjej yes cruzer I dont see that jejje ok jejjeje 5 years old! jejej