Chest, back and cod armor

I'm using sintra for body armor and need feedback on what tools to use to make the indentions on Jangos left chest plate, center piece, and the squares on the gauntlets. A Dremel & heatgun? Also, are there any indentions on the upper back plate on both sides of the shoulders? I don't have much reference on the back armor area and would appreciate any help. Thanks!

I ended up softening the chest armor only slightly with a hair dryer and hammering a piece of steel the exact shape of the slots into the sintra to make an impression. Careful, this part is easy to screw up as something could slip and you would have to remake that piece.

As far as the sintra gauntlets go, I couldn't find a square piece of steel to hammer so I cut them out with an exacto knife and added a 1/16th backing of sintra

I haven't done mine yet but if you were going to hammer a piece of metal maybe you could heat it up and melt or melt/hammer your way in.

heating the metal doesnt work. It melts/burns the sintra and looks bad. There are always more than one way to do something. I have only found this one way so far.

That's a good idea about the guantlets. I'm glad you came through for me on the chest indentions because I was just about to heat up some metal and commence pounding on the sintra. Whew!! Thanks Mavrik, and thanks for those great pics too!

I used a rotozip for the chest indentions.

Mike

Bojanglefett, your very welcome. MGR, whats a rotozip?

My armor is about 1/3 cut out and is coming along pretty well (I think, anyway), but I am having one problem I was hoping to get some advice on. The rectangle indention on the diamond shaped chest piece. I'm having trouble getting it to come out and not look like ****. So if anyone has tackled this, please share your ideas.

Cut out the rectangle, and put a flat piece of metal behind the diamond to close up the rectangle.

I thought about that. But since most referances show that the inner rectangle is raised to the same height as the outer diamond, here's plan B. (Always have a Plan B!)

I'm going to cut two new diamond pieces. On one, I'm going to cut out the rectangle, then attach the second piece behind it. Last I'm going to cut out another rectangle shape, slightly smaller in size than the hole, and attach that inside the hole to that back piece. This should give me the look I want. What do you think?

Sounds like a weener.

What kind of aluminum are you using? where did you get it?

It's aircraft grade aluminium that I got from the metal shop here on base.

How are you shapping it? I was thinking of the same thing.

I put a piece of thin shingle metal behind the cut out piece, then bevel cut a piece of poly-styrene slighty smaller, painted it silver and glued it to the middle of that. Dirtied it up and it looks fantastic! (I think!). Check it out:

That looks pretty good Dav. I'll let you know how mine turns out.

OK, so my armor is coming along great. I'm just about finished with the shoulder bells, pec plates, ab plate and diamond piece, but I'm wondering, what is the best way to finish it off? Sand it with extremely fine grit themn polish it? Or is there a better method?

Looks amazing. I will be following in your footsteps in the spring !!!

Don't forget the beveled edge (if you want to be insanely accurate)

Here's a pic of it that I snapped at the Cel2 display of the screen-used costume:

I'm not going for "Insanely accurate", but that'll sure help.

Anyone have ideas for finishing the aluminium?

Mine is beveled, but ya just cant see it in that picture too well! All you need to do is hold the plastic piece you will be using for the middle and run it on sandpaper at an angle. Easy as pie... or is that cake?

Mmmm...caaaaaake.

I know I posted this elsewhere, but I thought it was appropriate to post it here.

UG.

Well here's the sitch. Since I used metal shears to cut the aluminum, there were lots of burs and inperfections that eventually led to cracks during the forming.

So I broke down and bought a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade. Boy am I glad I did. I reduced my cutting time by 2/3 and all the edges are cleaner and neater for it! Now I just have to form the two breast plates back to shape now...

As far as the 'finish' goes, maybe getting it sand blasted, then buffing that lightly would create the 'dull yet slightly shinny' look of Jango's. You wouldn't want noticeable tool marks of any kind, so maybe steel wool would be good for buffing it up a little after.

Thanks for the tips man.

Mine is attached by using the biggest, baddest & Widest cluster of Industrial Velcro I can find. If I had to do it again, I would use the snap button system because it can hold down the armor better in areas that the velcro can't. Also if you need to clean your vest, you can unsnap the armor from it to do so.

Yeah, I used snaps. They're incredibly easy to put on, and you can clean your soft parts. It's just a tad more expensive than the other methods, but more than worth it. As far as the leg armor. I used elastic bands (see the leg armor thread for details), and will be adding velcro backing to hold them in place.

I have sintra also. There is a thread here somewhere that a Team Member put up with pics and the knowhow of how it's done.
I hope someone here can find and post the thread to this Topic.

Straight from Temura himself


http://tdh.prop-planet.com/viewtopic...c=1359&forum=9

I used a combo of industrial velcro with FABRIC-TAC. I used the fabric-tac on the velcro that attached to my flight suit, and vest. It has a nice hold to it, and dries clear. I also added a strap around the knees that I am going to feed underneath the flight suit. good luck

http://tdh.prop-planet.com/viewtopic...um=4&topic=476

I know that sounds weird, but what I need is some shots of the cod piece without any belts or holsters for referance. Can anyone help me out?

Here is mine ... it's made of Sintra like the rest of my armor. Hope it helps

Thanks. That looks good, but I'm really looking for the Jango.

Ooops .... so much for me paying attention !!
:o

No worries man. It looks great, but that shot had to hurt!

Awww, Mirax... It's just not as funny that way. After all, I did post it in the Jango forum.

What did it say???
I missed it

Here's a lookie at mine...

Thanks, but I need it without any belts or anything covering it so I can see all the proportions.

MGR: Before it just said "Show me your cod!"

here is mine.... home made from sintra

Thanks Mav

Kr0nk wrote:
Awww, Mirax... It's just not as funny that way. After all, I did post it in the Jango forum.

Yes, and I know all us Jangos knew what you were looking for, but since we do have those silly ROTJ and ESB Fetts that like to lurk around, I figured we probably better spell it out. We know that they are all a little slow and need our help

I'm re-doing my cod...:o.er...piece. Whats the best way to form & shape the curve around the bottom area? My earlier attempts just haven't worked so well. I am using sintra and any tips anyone can give, I very much appreciate it. Thanks!

Mavrik...thats one bada$$ looking Jango! That's the ideal codpiece I want to make for my Jango. Good Job, Man!

"jango

does anyone have any Cod templates ? I just discovered the joy and love of sintra.

Mavrik- you still look like you just stepped out of a toy box. you look AWESOME !

gm

Here are some cods for you.

BTW,
Maverik, how did you curve the bottom of the cod? You know, the part that is right under your (insert clever word for genetlia here)

Thanks

I've been waiting for that.

This is my first try at making ANY armor.And the cod was the hardest.
http://photos.yahoo.com/wanabeafett

Your album is empty.

mgr wrote:



BTW,
Maverik, how did you curve the bottom of the cod? You know, the part that is right under your (insert clever word for genetlia here)

Thanks

Me too....I'm waiting to see if anyone can help out with that area. Are there any threads on how thats done?

ShocKWavE wrote:
Here are some cods for you.

Siegfried and Roy Rule! Did I say that out loud??? :o

:puke

It concerns me that "cods" made him think of them, and he had a picture to post too

On the other end, they are perfect for the team Mango Fett!!

Sorry, I had to fix the link. It should work now.
Remember when you look, this is the first set I have ever made and I'm not finished yet.

Ouch! Pointy...

Looks good. What did you use?

I know, I need to round the point. All my armor is made from scraps of sintra I got from a sign shop. Ya gotta love free stuff.

hehe, Mirax just so we are clear, when I say , I mean :puke :puke :puke :puke :puke.

Ladies and gentlemen, stop those cards and letters. We have a winner in the "Whose got the most Siegfreid and Roy pics" contest. Not just one, but TWO pics???? ....not that there's anything wrong with that........ .......yeah, right.....

ShocKWavE wrote:
hehe, Mirax just so we are clear, when I say , I mean :puke :puke :puke :puke :puke.

Ummm, yet another picture? Interesting. I'm with MM on this one

MegalomaniacalMandalore wrote:
Ladies and gentlemen, stop those cards and letters. We have a winner in the "Whose got the most Siegfreid and Roy pics" contest. Not just one, but TWO pics???? ....not that there's anything wrong with that........ .......yeah, right.....

Its a little suspicious that you know how to spell their names

I guess I'm just a gud spellerer. That's about as far as it goes. I have no idea which is which, or even if there's a difference.

Siegfreid is the blond and Roy is the brunette. I know this cause I live about 1 1/2 hours from Vegas and I just saw their show over New Years. But that's ok since I'm a girl

Whats that boy doin to the back of that lion!
Really, I've heard of these"guys" but never knew what they do & looked like. I thought from the looks of the Miami Vice attire, that Miami was doing a stage version of the "Birdcage".

What you didn't mention was how dolled up you got when you saw them...

lol....shockwave.

Ok, as far as the curve at the bottom of the cod-piece... its two(2) seperate pieces glued and epoxy-puttied to fill in the gaps. It was harder than I thought to get the right curve on the bottom part that goes under ...you. What I did was design the front plate out of cardboard. Then, with a scrap piece of cardboard, cut a approximate shape to match the bottom and taped it to the bottom curving under. At first it wasnt even close, so I taped extra pieces of cardboard in the gaps and once it was all flush and curving under in the right angle, I trimmed off the excess and untaped it from the front piece. Then laid it flat (many little pieces taped together) and traced out the shape it made onto a new piece of cardboard. Once the new "correct" shape was cut out and taped into place, witha little more trimming, I had my pattern for the sintra =)

Hope this helps.....

Mav

About time someone got this thread back on track...

That sounds like a good plan Mav. I doubt it would work for me though because I'm using sheet metal and I'd have to paint the filler and try to match the rest of the aluminum.

KrOnk. The link I gave you in another thread had pics, but probably not enough info to show how to do this. Here's how I'm going to do mine(Same as all my other stuff, just a different piece);

Cut an oversized triangular piece of your material(about one inch larger on both sides, and at each end).

Using a ball pein(sometimes written "peen") hammer, hammer out a depression in the end-grain of a dry stump or bury a chunk of log or telephone pole. Just pounding heck out of the wood will creata a nice bowl effect. It will also make the wood denser and stronger there. Hammer it smooth.

With your ball pein hammer's rounded end(they can be purchased for cheap; way less than ten bucks), start working the metal over the depression. Not whacking, but not tapping. Enough to change it. Start at the outside and work in to the center. If you picture it as a clock, work from 12 to 3, then 12 to 9, then 6 to 3, then 6 to 9. This will keep it from taking on a spiral twist.

Don't worry about getting a finished shape the first time around, but try not to strike more than you have to. Aluminum actually gets harder as you work it(read; brittle)repeatedly. You really don't want to have to anneal it to soften it up. Just work steadily, and you should have it pretty well done in three times around.

If there are alot of uneven raised parts, use the pein to tap tap tap very quickly and close together on that smoothed post to even the surface out. Don't strike, just tap. You'll see what I mean as you try it. Trim off any extra.

Finally, sand the surface lightly, then wash with hot water and soap. When dry, apply a couple coats of sandable spray primer, sand down the high spots, repeat as needed to get a uniform surface. Paint 'er up.

For a first timer, I would really advise practicing on a piece of scrap to get the feel of it first. Make an ashtray or something.

Hope this helped.

are sigfreid and roy the ones in the verizon picture phone commercial? the ones "doing their thing" in the convenience store?

haha man I'm sorry I got this off track, just too hard to resist. Actually that was a great explaination of creating the piece.

Thanks Mavrik!

Ditto Mavrick


Yup thats the boys in that commercial

And everyone else. just wanted to share how my back-plate and collar piece its attached to my vest. I glued two snaps on the back-plate with Probond glue. I know some people are having a hard time with this glue, but if you make a small dent on your armor pieces - you could slide the snap in there so it wont move around. then set the other side to the vest.



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For the collar I used those snaps the are sewn on. I sewn one part to the vest then glued other to the collar piece. Once everyone is glued i permantly glued the snaps together. So my collar wont ever come off unless it tear it off


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Mannnnnnn!
I hate forming back armor!!!!!!!

Looks great as always Arturo. Where do you find Probond? in what section of say, Home Depot?

yep at Home Pepot in the glue section by the paints

How many snaps did you use to hold your armor to your vest

And how many on each part?

My guess is around 30 total.

Five for each chest plate (10), six for the ab plate (6), three for the collar (3), and two for each shoulder (4). As for the center diamond, I'd recomend gluing it on (or velcro if you plan on washing your vest regularly). It's kinda small for snaps unless you don't mind it standing away from your vest a bit. You may want to add one to the bottom point of the codpiece so it stays in place as well (1). That'd bring the total to 24.

Also, make sure you get no closer than 1/2" from the edges so that the snaps don't show. Mine are closer to an inch from the edges and hidden quite well.

I used 7 on the ab peice,7 on the collar,5 on each chest and 2 small ones on the diamond.My armor is sintra .I dremmeled recesses in the back of the armor so the snaps sit flush.Mine are only about 1/4" from the edge and you can't see them at all.I used "GOOP" to hold them to the armor.
Later,
Ron

Anyone done this???

Why would anyone want to do that?

i dont know if anyone has...its an interesting idea, though

It's a very good idea. From the looks of it, it's the only way to make the plates fit well with your body, and I have been planning to do this. Costumes don't seem to be people and hygene-friendly in my experience

I asked RA to permantly install armor to my vest, and boyohboy did he ever!



A styrene plate is pop-rivited to the vest, then the armor plates glued to the stryene plate.


It is absolutely NOT going to come off!!!



'course, I now want to upgrade my chest armor and can't change it out...so, it's a bit of a double edged sword.

Tradeoffs...

Tull_Fett wrote:
Why would anyone want to do that?

To get a tight fit and one of the board members who assembled the Jango @ MOM said that the armor was permanently attached...

Also, I am experimenting with goop to see how well it works. I tried super glue and it adhered great.

Yeah, I decided not to do it since if I need to refinish my armor or decided to change it (which I already reheated it to change the shape) I can easily. Plus I can wash my vest when needed too.

Tull_Fett wrote:
Why would anyone want to do that?

I would, have, and done it. Once on, it dosn't need to come off for any "true" reason.

I have had Boba armor permanatly attached to both of my vests for a couple years and have never had a reason to remove it. When I repaintd it I just masked off the vest and painted away.


Liquid nails is good for attaching to cloth vests, not sure on leather or viynl....

Lynn

Quote:
Liquid nails is good for attaching to cloth vests, not sure on leather or viynl....

Lynn

The funny thing is that yesterday I was standing in my shop looking at the adhesives I had laying around and wondered if that would work...

Thanks for the info Lynn!

Okay so I was wrong. It is a good idea

I would still rather have mine removeable. Each to his own.

Tull_Fett wrote:
Okay so I was wrong. It is a good idea

I would still rather have mine removeable. Each to his own.

You are not wrong, just keep an open mind. I have been a member of this community for almost a year and still learn new info every day. There is nothing wrong with questioning ideas

Okay so.. I really gotta get used to this place :S.


How's this.


I personally wouldn't attach it perminently but It does seem to be an intresting idea.

I did this to my Boba. I also did this to my FIRST Jango vest. But now, I use snaps.

How to attach a snap on a Sintra piece.

Dremel tool - leaves a perfect small outie for the snap hole. Then glue with Probond glue or J-B Weld, or Bondo.

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Attaching the shoe armor elastic. Also same Dremel tool to make small hole to flush out the rivet with bondo.



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That is great!! Keep them coming!!!

You sir, are a master-craftsman!

Gracias!

Thanks for the great info Seeker!!


~Bobby

Great idea seeker

Would that be the aluminum oxide grinding stone?