Aluminum powder armor casting questions...

just thought i'd step over from the Zam forum to see if any of your Jango'ers can help me out.

Jango's and Zam's armor is made with the same technique... I heard they (LFL) would brush in an aluminum powder onto the molds then lay in the fiberglass. Is this correct¿ Does anyone know the exact recipe for doing this and where to get the powder¿ Is it then regular fiberglass resin used¿ (sorry if this topic was covered already... i don't frequent this forum)

I wish I knew ... but if you noticed, if they had done this, then they would have also had to polish it a bit because you can see very fine swirlies in the pics.

gm

I had heard it was an aluminum powder mixed in with the resin mixture. Then polished afterwards. I would be interested in seeing the results you could get doing the same thing and then hitting it with silver rub and buff without painting it.

where does one get an aluminum powder than¿

I know of someone who does this with their resin castings. The powder even aids as a release agent of sorts. I'll try and have the answer for you shortly.

I also, have been looking for a good bright aluminum powder for this pourpose. I have clear gelcoat, and have tried chrome powder, but it turns out a dark iron color.

Most resin suppliers have aluminum powder available as an additive. I'v never tried it, but supposedly you want to mix it in your resin/gelcoat AND dust the mold with it. This way you're supposed to get twice the effect.

I know SilPak carries it and powdered bronze, along with Powdered pecan shell for simulated wood effects, and powdered seashell and porceline for cold cast ceramics.

Good Luck!

-Sarge

very cool. Sounds easy enough. Have no Jango'ers done this yet¿

I've heard of this powder to mix in and there was a link to a website here or on the rpf that sold this type of powder. I don't remember where it was but hopefully this will jar somebodys memory and a link can be provided.

Dal, you could try Hub Hobby in Richfield (612) 866-9575. I know they have some metal powders there, but I'm guessing you might be safer trying to get it from Iasco or somethin (if they have it).

Okay,...I haven't posted here for awhile, but one of the Mod's let me know of this discussion, and I'm here for a little expert advice (although I'm far from being an expert)

Okay, alum. and bronze powders can add great effect to a casted piece. The main benefits of using powder is: first, it helps reduce air bubbles in the casting, by helping the resin get into those hard to reach places (in the same way that talc. powder does. Second, the metallic color chosen acutally becomes part of the top layer of resin, so the whole piece appears metal, as opposed to just appearing painted. Third, the metal additives help increase the strength and heat resistance of the piece.

However, there are a few things to consider before using these types of products. Mainly, if your going to cast with metal powder layers, I suggest using a pressure caster, and a vac-pump mold maker. If the standard 'mold and cast' system is used, then it's almost a certainty that some sanding of finishing work will have to be done. Sanding of cutting the piece will loose the overall effect of the metal out layer. If your still interested in using metal powders, then my best advise is to go carefully and slowely. This stuff tends to streak, and you may very well find yourself spending hours coating a piece, just for the metal to look uniform shades throughout the piece. Finally, if you get any of this, store it carefully, metals like alum. can be explosive!

Okay, heres how it works, you take a detail paint brush and simply paint the inside of the mold with the metal. BE SURE TO ONLY USE THIS TECHNIQUE WITH RUBBER MOLDS!!!!

Other products are available such as alum, and bronze additives. This is powder that is not used as the top layer, but is actually mixed in with the resin prior to casting. This will aloow a piece to maintain its metal appearance, even if it gets scratched or nicked. This is hard to cast due to the fact that it makes the resin much thicker, and should probably only be used in conjunction with a PRESSURE CASTER.

The best place to find the highest quality of items such as these is:

http://www.alumilite.com

There prices are a bit higher, but well worth the quality. Speaking of which, I'd personally suggest only using the metal additives with 100% PURE RESIN. Again, costs more, but well worth the difference.

I appologize if I've rambled, not made sense, or if anything is grossly misspelled. I've been working many hours (as Chris can attest to) and i'm very tired. However, if anything is unclear, or if anyone has further questions, FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME AT:

jedimasterjared@hotmail.com

Peace,

J.

very very very awesome information. thanks ! that was exactly what we needed !

I 100% agree with you on the whole casting with a vacupump...of course, if I ever make a mold its always with one of these...nonetheless, it is extremely important in this situation because your pieces need to basically come out of the mold *perfect* without you haveing to sand down.

Also, being the nature of fiberglass, you eventually have to trim. Make sure you add an extra border on your mold to make sure you account for this trim.

gm

Correction....

Everything I said is true, but....

if you have any questions, my email is actually:

jedimasterjared@msn.com

Peace

Any helpfull hints for fiberglass molds?