Rogue Studio color question

I have to repaint my armor b/c my helmet makes it look like **** and my helmet is way cool, ill post some pic's when I get done putting it together. So I wanted to go with the Rogue Studio color since now I can get my hands on a air brush.I wanted to use the Yellow Zinc Chromate for the trim around scratches but it looks a little to bright to me. I just saw a pic of it online since none of the stores in my area has it. So I was wondering if any one out there has used the Yellow Zinc Chromate or any of the colors for that matter?

If you can wait another week or so I can tell you for sure. I just ordered the paints from testors and they should be here within the week.

Sweet deal, I was about to do the same but I thought id ask first. Did you go with the U.S. Med green or just the Med green.

The US med green. That is the one RS suggested. When I looked at the color charts the Med green was deffinatally not the same color. So I got the US Med green, poly scale I think. And the yellow zinc chromate is model masters.

I found the Med Green so I bought a bottle. I was going to order the U.S. Med Green and see what the diffrence was. I cant tell by looking at pic's on the net but I was just going with Model Masters.

I think even the model masters green is different. The originals were the poly scale and floquil so I would go with those.

So your going with US Med. Green,poly scale and
Yellow Zinc Chromate, testors.
What web page did you get your stuff from?
How much did you buy and how much did it cost?
Ive been out of the painting thing for like 9 years so im having to relearn all the little tricks.

www.testors.com is where I've gotten mine from. It took about 4 bottles of Med Green to do my whole suit. You can get all of the paints needed from there.

I've used the yellow zinc chromate and found that it looked great! At first it seemed a bit bright but after weathering the armour (w/black & gray spray paint) and using the black wash - I think it looks spot on.

Loranar :fettrotj

Ok whats this wash or black wash I hear so much about and how dose one use it?

EDIT----------------------------------------------------------------------=


You see what I mean about the pic. It looks bright but then again it dosent
even look yellow.

ONCE AGAIN ANOTHER EDIT------------------------------------------------


I know why it dosent look like yellow, B/C they use the same freaking bottle for every pic!!!!!!heres what the Med green looks like. Same pic by the way incase you didnt see.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shortimer52

Ok whats this wash or black wash I hear so much about and how dose one use it?

---

It is a mixture of windshield washer fluid and black acrylic paint (probably like 10 parts washer fluid and 2 parts paint). You mix them together and then use a rag/sponge to apply over the piece to help tone down colours and create a weathered look. Make sure you apply evenly and w/o any running. It drys quick so it is better to apply a bit at a time and then add more.

Hope that Helps!

Loranar :fettrotj

The problem is that the stock photo for the color on many websites isn't even the correct bottle. That just looks like white.

Also, be cautious using online charts. I have found that the online swatches can vary greatly from the actual color.

I use model master all the time on everything from props and models to everyday household items. the bottles look like the wrong colors because modelMaster's paints sepperate VERY easily into the individual colors used to make colors like U.S Med green. you really need to shake up the bottle alot and then open it and go off the color from the open container. you realy shouldent go off the color from looking through the glass because the sepparated paints stick to the inside of the bottle verry well and obscure what the actual really looks like.

Also you dont have to use windshield washer fluid in your wash. You can but it is not a necessity. You can use regular water. Dry time is a bit slower but the effect is very similar.

I ordered my paints from www.testors.com I think I ordered 3 bottles of the green and one of the yellow.

Here is my armor, except helmet, all done with the RS colors straight out of the bottle..

Lynn

Lynn that looks sweet guess im going to do the same go buy it now.

the zinc chromate is perfect. It looks bright if you go STRAIGHT out of the bottle....but with ALL the armor, everything has to be black washed to get the right tone. Once all the black washing and spattering effect is done, you will see that zinc chromate along with all the colors lee constructed were right on.

Just keep in mind, the colors you get right out of the bottle are ONLY the beginning. To get to the real colors you have to travel the windy path of the original painters in washing, spattering and scuffing to achieve the right hue of color.

Good luck !!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Got Maul

the zinc chromate is perfect. It looks bright if you go STRAIGHT out of the bottle....but with ALL the armor, everything has to be black washed to get the right tone. Once all the black washing and spattering effect is done, you will see that zinc chromate along with all the colors lee constructed were right on.

Just keep in mind, the colors you get right out of the bottle are ONLY the beginning. To get to the real colors you have to travel the windy path of the original painters in washing, spattering and scuffing to achieve the right hue of color.

Good luck !!

---

To Got Maul you listen....

Mine are straight out of the bottle, but it took lots of weathering to get it where it looks now.

Lynn

I was thinking about that lastnight. About all the extra stuff that comes with all the fun. But just to start you have to get the colors right and thats what I needed. Thank God for people like yall or id never figure it out!

I just put in a order for new armor so I get to play with the old stuff and learn what dose what.

I used the RS colors on my armor also. The Yellow Zinc Chromate is birght by it's self, but is even toned down a little with the application of the US Med Green.

This is what ive been looking for, some close up pic's of what it looks like. Thanks again GF

Something else I was wondering. Do you want to paint the entire thing yellow and then add the green or just paint around the damage with the yellow and then add the green?

What I do is paint the whole thing in coats. Shoot one coat of yellow. Let dry. Remove mask. Let sit for 24 hrs. Mask again. Shoot one coat of green. Let dry. Remove mask. Let sit 30 mins. Weather the hell out of it with a wash and some ground artist charcoals. The reason I only wait 30 mins is because I sometimes want so scrape additional damage points. This works best when the paint is not fully cured.

man, you guys go the long way ! I did some comparisons and found that topical versus masking yields very close effects. I feel as though the silver was used as base, masked then painted the color green. Peel away the mask, scratch the edges of the paint to get the sharpe edged scratches...then I topically added the yellow. The only reason why I went topically with the yellow was because the edges were mostly rounded out and I saw no reason to use the scratch method to get the sharper edged scratches (that and I am cheap as hell when it comes to paint :)

I feel exactly the same way. Looking at the MOM/AOSW photos, the yellow definitely looks like it was applied topically. Though Gator's example of the reveal method looks really sharp! I have some decisions to make when paiting my new armour ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Got Maul

I feel as though the silver was used as base, masked then painted the color green. Peel away the mask, scratch the edges of the paint to get the sharpe edged scratches...then I topically added the yellow. The only reason why I went topically with the yellow was because the edges were mostly rounded out and I saw no reason to use the scratch method to get the sharper edged scratches (that and I am cheap as hell when it comes to paint :)

---

Do what with who? Yall lost me there!!!!!!! so paint the silver and the green and then yellow?

or silver, yellow, green and then chip away green to get the yellow


One more beer and this will all make sence.

yup , agreed Gator did a fantastic job on it !

Basically use your silver as the base coat. Then mask only the silver areas that are exposed. Paint the green directly on top of the mask and silver areas. Dry, then peal the mask off revealing the silver. Then take your yellow and dab around the edges. Black wash a few times then spatter with black paint.

OK OK, I got it. What I did in the past was just layer it all. silver then yellow then green. And that worked just fine but I want to try other things to see how they all work. So what is everyone useing for masking? Im going with the rubber cement idea, worked good so far but want to try other things.

I follow the same steps that bobagoat listed, but I applied 2 coats of yellow and 3 coats of green. I put the coats on very light, with an airbrush, to avoid drips and streaks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bobagoat

What I do is paint the whole thing in coats. Shoot one coat of yellow. Let dry. Remove mask. Let sit for 24 hrs. Mask again. Shoot one coat of green. Let dry. Remove mask. Let sit 30 mins. Weather the hell out of it with a wash and some ground artist charcoals. The reason I only wait 30 mins is because I sometimes want so scrape additional damage points. This works best when the paint is not fully cured.

---

I know this method is not screen accurate, but I wanted my armor to seem more "real" in person. That is why I chose to use aluminum plate for my armor pieces and paint them with the reveal method.

Jango_Fett_Jr, Got Maul - Thanks for the complements.

Gator

So my U.S. med green was shipped off today, very slow since I put ina order on the 28 of march. But I did order the Wisconson Central Maroon for the guants that came in today. So I painted my guants right up and they look really great after fixing a air brush problem (thanks Cal) But they are gloss very gloss. So will the black wash tone it down a little?

thats the idea my friend !

remember blot with the wash and dry/pick up paint by blotting as well.

ok so I painted them going to let dry for about 48 hours, just put them in the sun about 2 hours ago and a bird left a nice big loaf on them. Thank God they were dry!!!! So next step is put together and then add the silver and the black wash with 1 part flat black and 5 parts washer fluid. Am I going in the right direction, some time I have to have thing spelled out to me. I know im a pain:)


AND LOTS OF BLOTING!!!!!!!

no pain at all ! Better to do it right the first time. Yes, you are on the right track BUT I would actually warn against using Windex. When you blackwash and blot, you kinda want as much time to work with your piece as possible before your paint dries. When you use Windex your paint will dry faster (because of the alcohol content) than if you used water. I personally use water.

I used water and acylic black paint to blackwash my stuff so far. Then when you dull coat it, it wont wash off. I actually just dunked the entire piece in the water, and the black stuck in the cracks. when it diied I washed it off where I didnt want it before the final coat.

How about after all is done can I put a flat clear coat on? Or is that a no, no?

Ya same thing, flat clear coat, or a satin dull coat will work.