ESB FP v.3 progress: KNEES AND SHOULDERS

I usually go over everything with a scuff pad, and then wipe it down with thinner or wax/grease remover to get rid of any contaminants before I prime.

And a scuff pad is what? Something similar to fine grit sand paper? Could I essentially just go over everything with 0000 steel wool?

Steel wool is fine, then perhaps some Tamiya fine surface primer and you're good to go

Originally Posted by cr4nky

Could I essentially just go over everything with 0000 steel wool?

That would probably work just fine!!
D

Originally Posted by cr4nky

And a scuff pad is what? Something similar to fine grit sand paper?

These are what i normally use.

http://3m.hillas.com/pc-6662-906-3m-...in-x-9-in.aspx

I'm sure you can order them from other places in less quantity. I ususally get em at local hardware stores in 3 packs. I also use them for going over everything to dull down and weather once i'm done painiting.

D

I used some really fine sandpaper to matten it down. Then primer on it and you´re good to go.

The paint sticks to it perfectly. I bet steelwool will do a good job too.

Thanks guys!

I´m all set then, primer is going on tomorrow

Today I got the parts primed and coated with silver base layer. Did one layer of Tamiya Light grey fine primer etc. etc.... And the two layers of Humbrol #11 silver.

Tomorrow, it´s out with the Floquils and whatnot. I´m using the same paints and colors as DarthMiller did on the JB project.

I need some tips here. I´m about to paint with Model Masters acrylics, but I am unsure of what I can use as thinner for these. There is no one here in Norway that sells this brand, so I need a substitute.

Any tips? Can I use water?

...yep acrylic can be thinned with water...it's a water based paint

Steve

^^ what he said

I also heard you can use windshield wiper fluid?

And that you should stay away from using Windex and such because it contains acetone (I think).

Distilled water?

Originally Posted by Bobby Fett UK

Distilled water?

Like water in a bottle from the store?

It has been boiled and the steam collected and returned to water, you use it to top up car batteries (or did). I am sure that is what it says to use on my testors acrylic paints.

Yup, Distilled water I dunno about across the pond where you guys are, but you can buy it in jugs just about anywhere over here.
D

Hm...I tried using distilled water with my Model Masters paint, and as of now it´s not looking good.

Also, I have Model Masters med. green. Is there another med. green from them I´ve missed, cause this one looks all wrong!

I don´t have the cojones to paint anymore atm, at least not until I know what I have and what I´m doing is right. I really don´t want to screw up and redo this.

Ok, problem solved and the pieces are now all green!!

Next is the shading/misting

Here are the results!

I tried to follow DarthMiller´s thread with the different shades of green on the armor. Don´t know if a got it though.

Still have to add a wash and all that, so I went a little light on the misting.

Give me you verdict!

Dude looking great the shading looks just right. Keep it up.

Thanks, added a bit more grimey black, since the colors faded a bit when they dried. Just let it dry til tomorrow and then I can add the yellow and decal before I do a blackwash as a finishing touch before I seal it all in.

PM sent..
Nice job bruv...

Thanks a lot guys!

How long does the Model Master paints need to cure before adding decals and stuff? Is it enough for it to sit for 5-6 hours or does it need a day or two? Testors.com is kinda lacking info on this point.

It's looking great! "Curing" depends on the amount of coats inbetween and if any "Dullcote" was used. I'd wait a few days to be safe although you're not going to be removing decals. If your talking masking off anything then I'd wait the few days. If you're just talking a chest & shoulder decal, overnight should be fine.

Steve

Hey Nice job...

The back plate Dent (upper right) is not on the ESB Armor you can fill it if you want.. just a FYI

I usually fill in both dents, I went frame by frame through ESB and couldn't find the lower dent, but I assume it's not there either.

Finally satisfied with the shading on these. Still have the center diamond to paint, but I have to do some paintmixing to get a good green first.

I´m considering adding a blackwash on the armor plates as well, but I am not 100% convinced I need it. Any feedback on this would be a great help, since it´s almost impossible to see from others pics if there is a blackwash present. Flashes from cameras and stuff have a tendency to wash it out in pics.

I really wanted to start painting the knees and shoulders tonight, but I am missing the base yellow, so I´m not sure if I can get away with using only yellow zinc chromite. Anyone? I might be able to mix some white and yellow to get that really light yellow base layer though.

Any input is welcomed with open arms.

Now, on to the pics!! I hope I do the Fett justice with this (fingers crossed).

Your paintjob so far looks quite good!!! Right amount of misting, and in the right places etc. I always do a blackwash, but thats totally up to you. I don't think anyone can diffinitively say if that was done on the ESB armour or not, but I feel that it finnishes the set.

As far as your shoulders/knees, were it me, I would wait for the correct base colors, but thats just me. if you think you can get close enough with mixing, give it a shot!!!!
D

Thanks for the kind words bro!

I´ll see if I can get them ordered. I just need to find a new place that supplies Model Masters, ´cause the last vendor I used took 6 weeks just to ship the paints. Sadly I have yet to find a store in Norway that sells this brand of paint.

I´ll try some mixes tonight and do some tests to see if I get it right. If not, I´ll order some more paint ASAP.

As for the wash, I too feel it kinda finishes off the paint job. And yes, seeing a wash on pics is next to impossible. It fades out in the flash most times. I guess I´ll go for a really light wash to be on the safer side. I really don´t want to ruin the work

When making wash with acrylics, can you just dilute it with water, same as when you thin it?

Looks AWESOME!!!

I too agree with JK, order the right colors!

See my sig.

Originally Posted by Sixxgunn13

Looks AWESOME!!!

I too agree with JK, order the right colors!

See my sig.

Thanks!! I´m pretty stoked about how it turned out.

Trying to find the right colors online now, but it ain´t that easy.

When doing a wash, i generally use windshield wiper fluid. I'm guessing you can find that across the pond. Its the blue stuff that comes in big jug. Over here its blue anyway, although I've heard that over there they also have green. Premis behind that, is that it dries much faster, and doesn't pool as much.

If you are going to order paints, i would try to get floquil or pollyscales rather than testors, but I dunno what the availablity for those is where you are???

Keep up the good work!!!!
D

Originally Posted by Jango's kid

When doing a wash, i generally use windshield wiper fluid. I'm guessing you can find that across the pond. Its the blue stuff that comes in big jug. Over here its blue anyway, although I've heard that over there they also have green. Premis behind that, is that it dries much faster, and doesn't pool as much.

If you are going to order paints, i would try to get floquil or pollyscales rather than testors, but I dunno what the availablity for those is where you are???

Keep up the good work!!!!
D

I have something called red spirit here, which I used on my helmet when doing the wash. It evaporates just as fast as windshield wiper fluid and the likes. In Norway (as far as I know) there is not a single store that sells Model Master, Floquil or Polly Scale. Only Vallejo and Humbrol of known brands more or less.

I´ll keep up the good work though. I might try mixing some paints later. I like taking a few chances, adds a bit excitement to the whole process And in my case also has allowed me to get some decent results since I´m not experienced in painting, I need to be willing to experiment once in a while. Hehe.

Originally Posted by cr4nky

I´m not experienced in painting, I need to be willing to experiment once in a while. Hehe.

Never would have guessed it judging by your work!!!!!
D

Here´s the finished paintjob on some of the parts, just clear coat left. Still have to finish up the back, diamond and butt though.

Awesome!

Wow bro, that is coming along great! If you're still having a hard time finding the color for the knees, you can also switch up to rattlecans. There are some good sticky color threads in the armor section. Again, awesome job so far; keep us posted!

Originally Posted by Firespray Pilot

Wow bro, that is coming along great! If you're still having a hard time finding the color for the knees, you can also switch up to rattlecans. There are some good sticky color threads in the armor section. Again, awesome job so far; keep us posted!

Yeah, rattlecans....Norway. Hehe. We don´t have any of the brands mentioned in the rattlecans threads, so that´s even harder to find. But I think I´ll figure something out.

And thanks for the kind words brother!

Just a quick question. I´m about to add the clear coat. Is there any type I should avoid using. Right now I have one from Humbrol and one from Vallejo. My reason for asking is that I don´t know if there is a difference in what you use on enamels and acrylics.

OK...now comes the tricky part!!!! I've heard horror stories of folks mixing different brands of paint/clearcoats!!!! Can potentially ruin your entire paint job!!!! I've never used either of those clearcoats with testors paint before, so I dunno??? Were I you, I would take a scrap peice of plastic or FG or whatever, and give it the same treatment as you did the armour...same paints etc, and then try your clear coat on that scrap piece to make sure its not gonna eat the paint!! Again, most will work togeter, and it usually isn't a problem, but you never know!!!! Why risk ruining your paintjob??/ Try it on scrap first!! At least, thats what I'd do??

Originally Posted by Jango's kid

OK...now comes the tricky part!!!! I've heard horror stories of folks mixing different brands of paint/clearcoats!!!! Can potentially ruin your entire paint job!!!! I've never used either of those clearcoats with testors paint before, so I dunno??? Were I you, I would take a scrap peice of plastic or FG or whatever, and give it the same treatment as you did the armour...same paints etc, and then try your clear coat on that scrap piece to make sure its not gonna eat the paint!! Again, most will work togeter, and it usually isn't a problem, but you never know!!!! Why risk ruining your paintjob??/ Try it on scrap first!! At least, thats what I'd do??

Thanks, I will! No rush to coat it anyway. I have until the middle of October to be ready with the costume, so no point in rushing it.

Looks absolutely fantastic!! The right blend of everything to look truely "dirty"...great job!! If you stuck with all acrylic paints ie. Testors, Pollyscale, Model Masters, you should be more than safe with the Testors dullcote.

BUT...and this is a big one...the paintjob will go from looking three dimensional with all of the layers, colors and washes you applied to a two dimensional palette. Plus it will dull down your silver extensively. Trust me I know from experience. I had to go back in to apply different layers to get the effect I wanted and then left it alone.

It won't change like magic and be transformed into something completely different from what you're looking at and certainly not in photograph's, but the subtleties that give depth and dimension and realism (life) to it will be slightly diminished.

Just thought I'd give you a heads up what Dullcote/clearcoat will do. I had to use the Dullcote in layers when I was finished with one "step" of painting to seal in what I had already done, then move on. It was laborious, but worth it personally for me.

Steve

Thanks Steve!

I was thinking that, since everything is fairly dull now I was thinking if maybe a satin clear coat in stead of a matte one? Isn´t satin a kind of "not-so-matte-just-not-glossy-either" finish? At least my sating black Humbrol tin is flat when it dries.

Oh and it´s all Model Master except for the silver which is Humbrol #11, but I guess the Humbrol should survive the Testors clear coat.

Oh, and how many clear coats should one put on there?

There probably not much I can do about it gettign a bit 2 dimentional now though.

Ok, I´m having trouble getting my grubby hands on the UP Armor Yellow for the knees and shoulders. And since pics on the web have a tendency to "lie" I´m wondering if anyone can tell me what this color looks like? I know this is a bit hard, but I can´t find a conversion chart for the Floquil paints.

Is it a light yellow beige color? It looks like that in the pics, almost like light sand or something. If anyone on the other hand has a conversion chart for Floquil to Vallejo or Humbrol I´d be a happy camper!

Originally Posted by cr4nky

Thanks Steve!

I was thinking that, since everything is fairly dull now I was thinking if maybe a satin clear coat in stead of a matte one? Isn´t satin a kind of "not-so-matte-just-not-glossy-either" finish? At least my sating black Humbrol tin is flat when it dries.

Oh and it´s all Model Master except for the silver which is Humbrol #11, but I guess the Humbrol should survive the Testors clear coat.

Oh, and how many clear coats should one put on there?

There probably not much I can do about it gettign a bit 2 dimentional now though.

The satin seems more popular with shoulders & knees whereas the dull seems more popular with the armor/helmet/jetpack. Although it has been a good three years since I painted up my costume, things may have shifted a bit

Plus if you're going for the top coat, one coating of clear will be just fine. And don't sweat the two-dimensional thing as you'll likely be the only one to notice the difference

And the UP armor yellow is more of a sunshine yellow, not sandy. The costume ref. pics you're likely viewing are weathered down a tad don't forget.

Can't wait to see more of your progress

Steve

Thanks a lot Steve. I´ll go to the store when I get my paycheck and find some from Vallejo, they have their entire range here. I also need a substitute for the CNW green on the diamond.

More progress as soon as there is some. Stay tuned

what yellow did you use on the armor?

also is the armor acceptable "spruce green" to match the gaunts or is it a seperate color altogether?

On the armor here I used 4 or 5 different colors on the green parts. The yellow is Model Master Yellow Zinc Chromate and the silver is Humbrol #11

Got some lightish yellowish color for the shoulders and knees today, I´ll hopefully get that on them tomorrow.

On another note, regarding clear coating. I asked a fairly experienced guy at a hobby shop today about mixing brands and so forth. Long story short, ha always used Humbrol clear coat, thinned out with as little as possible universal thinner. The technique he applied the coat with goes like this:

Thin layer of clear coat and then on the way back use only air from the airbrush to instantaneously dry it. This has worked for him with all different brands of paint he has used, enamels as well as acrylics.

He could also inform me that Vallejo clear coats did not offer any more protection than a standard layer of acrylic paint.

Hopefully I´ll show some progress on the armor tomorrow.

Finally it´s almost time to finish this armor. I just got confirmation from Testors that the dullcoat I have access to here in Norway will work with the paints I´ve used. I just need it to dump into my mailbox and then I can seal these babies in. Also waiting on some more maskol so I can finish the knees and shoulders.

I did a coat with the Humbrol Matt Cote today on a few select parts. Just wanted to test it to see if it reacted with the different brands of paint I have used.

I used it (thinned with white spirit) on Vallejo acrylics and on Model Master acrylics, one layer and it´s been on there for a couple hours now and no sign of any chemical reaction with the paints yet.

So for now, people painting with Vallejo or Model Master can use the Humbrol Matt Cote safely (unless I get a late reaction:P).

Got a lot of work done today! All these four parts where silver this morning

The flash wipes away a lot of the light misting on some parts. I´m considering darkening the knees a bit more tomorrow.

Enjoy!