Attaching Armour : Tutorial

Just finished attaching my chest armour to the vest. i used steel eyelets, as can be seen on the ILM props. i bought the eyelets from a 'Hobbycraft' store, they are very easy to attach, everything is included in the pack except a hammer.

You can trace around your own armour onto cardboard for a template, but make sure that you keep the same curvature or the holes in your jacket won't line up with the bolts on your armour when finished.

Just a note: If you wish to troop in your armour you will need to cut off any excess bolt when finished (a dremel will do the job), get the bolt as short as possible so it won't dig into you.

Cool!:thumbsup

good job Daz !
i search how i fix my bobamaker armor on my flak jacket now i see the answer ! but can i fix the bolt without maked a hole ?

Very good idea, DAZ!

Got a question for people trooping in the armor. After walking around and putting the armor on and off for multiple events, there may be chance one of the bolts may come loose. Would you recommend using a thread-locker (like medium strength lock-tight) to prevent this from happening?

Using a dab of hot glue on the end would keep it fastened and provide a little cushion from the bolt head.

Great Idea! And I really like your addition of the hot glue MandaloreFett, just peel the glue off when you need to and reglue it. Hot glue's cheap. I think this is the route i'll end up going.

Awesome tutorial Daz!

Great job Daz! I have been meaning to do a tutorial on this forever.

If anyone is curious, I know how to make it with a pretty accurate pattern for attachment, and many other things too if anyone is intrested.

Can't wait to see your finished costume!

Really nice to see this method being so nicely laid out. If anyone asks, this is the way to go. Thank you BM!:cheers

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Originally Posted by MandalorFett

Using a dab of hot glue on the end would keep it fastened and provide a little cushion from the bolt head.

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Or, you could use a cap nut. It screws on, and has a rounded head. No mess, and it doesn't dig into you. Drop of Loctite Threadlocker, and you're good to go! ;)

Why would you need to take your armor off?:?;):b

Hi

Try these, they're called "locking end caps" or "star washers" these will be perfect :) These won't come off whilst trooping.

DAZ

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Originally Posted by Jimmy BufFETT

Very good idea, DAZ!

Got a question for people trooping in the armor. After walking around and putting the armor on and off for multiple events, there may be chance one of the bolts may come loose. Would you recommend using a thread-locker (like medium strength lock-tight) to prevent this from happening?

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Great tutorial Daz, I'll definitely be doing this for my armour.....

...just when I think I'm done, something else comes along!!

Great tutorial Daz... :thumbup

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Originally Posted by dung0beetle

Why would you need to take your armor off?:?;):b

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after hours of trooping in the heat wearing (maybe) a t-shirt, then the jumpsuit, then the padded vest, then a layer of some sort of plastic or other hard material to hold in the heat and the vest is bound to get stinky. If not you could end up spilling something on it or having someone spill something on you.

I think DB was being sarcy... ;) :lol

I couldn't find the sarcasm smiley...

That's cool... I more or less did the same with the grommets on my ESB Boba. What I like is I can get the vest really tight up against the back of the armour, no gap like I had with snaps or velcro

Just when i needed a better method, you come up with the goods :). Thanks Daz :thumbsup

oh the new method will work wonders with some new armour i am about to order :lol expect the order any day soon daz

Great method Daz, I think I'll upgrade to this with my current armor even before I upgrade to my newer armor. I also really like your tutorial method, very easy to follow.

What about those of us that don't have resin copies of our armor lying around? :)

How do you mark the holes in that case? Or do you just make paper/cardboard copies?

looks nice Daz i used the good ol snap method and that worked well but this is great

How would I make resin copies? anyway to do it with stuff around the house?

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Originally Posted by bobamaker

Just finished attaching my chest armour to the vest. i used steel eyelets, as can be seen on the ILM props. i bought the eyelets from a 'Hobbycraft' store, they are very easy to attach, everything is included in the pack except a hammer.

You can trace around your own armour onto cardboard for a template, but make sure that you keep the same curvature or the holes in your jacket won't line up with the bolts on your armour when finished.

Just a note: If you wish to troop in your armour you will need to cut off any excess bolt when finished (a dremel will do the job), get the bolt as short as possible so it won't dig into you.

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How do you go about this with the collar and back armor bolts? What I mean is do you have a seperate attachment point for the collar armor to the vest that is different from where the collar and back armor connect with the "keyboard key" bolts/studs. And following this same train of thought, when you are attching the backplate you can't really use this method can you? How could you screw it on once the vest is on you? Would you just use velcro or snaps then on the back along with the bolts/studs?

I hope I made this clear...not sure how best to ask this...i'll wait to attach the collar and back until I get that all figured out i guess.

the collar should overlap with the backplate, therefore you can make the studs into bolts themselves. This way you can bold on the cape and have a hinge like atachment, the rest of it is snaps or velcro.

My attachment issues have been solved :thumbup

umm....I think i will use this method to attach my brand *NEW* BM armour :)

What sort of epoxy filler did you use?

I have a question.

Do you find that the vest material holds up ok to the stress of the eyelets?

Do you think that a reinforcement in the area of the eyelet would be helpful?

Could you please send a diagram to me of where you place the eyelets.

I am considering adding reinforcement to my vests, before they are sewn together.

Do you think that the location of the eyelets would be about the same for everyone?

What I am think of is placing a reinforcing patch, on the inside of the vest, that would be under the locations of where the eyelet will go.

So, if the eyelet will be withing a 2 inch radius, I could add this to the vest and the actual eyelet, could be adjusted to the individual the the reinforcing fabric would still be in a good place to do the job.

Everyone........please let me know your opinions.

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Aaron

What sort of epoxy filler did you use?

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I use an automotive epoxy filler.

DAZ

The jacket is certainly strong emough to hold the armour, I didn't need to reinforce at all.

You can see where I attached the bolts on my photos, they are indicated by the holes on the template armour. For the shoulders I used one on each side and one at the top (3 for each).

I think that the location of the eyelets will work for all makes of armour.

Hope this helps
DAZ

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Originally Posted by LadySewforus

I have a question.

Do you find that the vest material holds up ok to the stress of the eyelets?

Do you think that a reinforcement in the area of the eyelet would be helpful?

Could you please send a diagram to me of where you place the eyelets.

I am considering adding reinforcement to my vests, before they are sewn together.

Do you think that the location of the eyelets would be about the same for everyone?

What I am think of is placing a reinforcing patch, on the inside of the vest, that would be under the locations of where the eyelet will go.

So, if the eyelet will be withing a 2 inch radius, I could add this to the vest and the actual eyelet, could be adjusted to the individual the the reinforcing fabric would still be in a good place to do the job.

Everyone........please let me know your opinions.

Thanks!

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It sounds like reinforcement would not be needed.

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by bobamaker

I use an automotive epoxy filler.

DAZ

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Daz,

what brand did you use? I was thinking of using 2 part epoxy resins but i am sure they won't be strong enough.

I would suggest Isopon P38, ive used it in the past alot, great stuff, stinks though :)

What about using JB Weld?

Help ,
where can I find the eyelets at ? I've looked everywhere and all the ones I can find are too large for the job.....

I got mine at Jo-Anne's

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Originally Posted by thundrkiss

Help ,
where can I find the eyelets at ? I've looked everywhere and all the ones I can find are too large for the job.....

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If they haven't stopped carrying fabric and crafts (like many around the country have:rolleyes) your local Wal*Mart should have the right sized eyelets. If not, they may have what you need at a camping supply, as they are often used to repair tents.:thumbsup

I find them at the hardware store

I used a similar method on my first set of armor. I put the bolts on first, though, and chalked the tips to mark the fabric while the vest was on my mannquin. I think I did one piece at a time to ensure the chalk didn't come off in the handling. It's been years, so my memory is a little fuzzy on that.

On the inside of the vest, I had a plastic sheet insert that basically acted as a big washer with holes for all the bolts. The plastic sections, cut to fit each section of armor, sandwiched the vest.

On the new setup I'm working on, I was hoping to try the craft push pins, with the metal pinch clip on the other side (not sure of the exact name for those). Wondering how well they will hold up the weight of fiberglass armor, but I have a bunch of them. They would elimate some of the work if all you have to do is push the pins through the fabric, and it would also allow for ease in upgrading or changing armor while keeping the vest intact. Don't know if this will work or not, but I'll be trying it soon.

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Originally Posted by Slave I

On the new setup I'm working on, I was hoping to try the craft push pins, with the metal pinch clip on the other side (not sure of the exact name for those). Wondering how well they will hold up the weight of fiberglass armor, but I have a bunch of them. They would elimate some of the work if all you have to do is push the pins through the fabric, and it would also allow for ease in upgrading or changing armor while keeping the vest intact. Don't know if this will work or not, but I'll be trying it soon.

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that's an interesting idea... wouldn't the backers for those pins be sort of uncomfortable though?

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Originally Posted by Slave I

I used a similar method on my first set of armor. I put the bolts on first, though, and chalked the tips to mark the fabric while the vest was on my mannquin. I think I did one piece at a time to ensure the chalk didn't come off in the handling. It's been years, so my memory is a little fuzzy on that.

On the inside of the vest, I had a plastic sheet insert that basically acted as a big washer with holes for all the bolts. The plastic sections, cut to fit each section of armor, sandwiched the vest.

On the new setup I'm working on, I was hoping to try the craft push pins, with the metal pinch clip on the other side (not sure of the exact name for those). Wondering how well they will hold up the weight of fiberglass armor, but I have a bunch of them. They would elimate some of the work if all you have to do is push the pins through the fabric, and it would also allow for ease in upgrading or changing armor while keeping the vest intact. Don't know if this will work or not, but I'll be trying it soon.

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Nice avatar ;)

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Originally Posted by HeadlessHunter

Nice avatar ;)

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Thanks. I had been using mine at the RPF for a while, and saw you had utilized the same Insider pic. Call me crazy, but I really like that variation!

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Originally Posted by tk7602

that's an interesting idea... wouldn't the backers for those pins be sort of uncomfortable though?

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Shouldn't be. They're made for you to make your own badges and things anyway. You'd also have the jumpsuit between you and the backing clasps. Actually, they should be smaller than the nuts for he bolts used above.

My only concern is if they will hold up the weight of fiberglass armor. I plan to use enough to do the job, so I'm hoping they hold up. Should know shortly.

Tried out the clips I mentioned previously and I'm happy to say they work.:cheers

Used an old throw off shoulder bell I don't plan to use for good. I wanted to see if it would work logisitically, so as a test, I used kneadable plumber's putty rather than my affixing of choice (Gorilla Glue). It held fine.

When I get ready to do the real armor, I will fix the flat headed tack part to the armor with Gorilla Glue and let it dry overnight.

The great plus of these clips is that they are lightweight. As with backpackers where every ounce counts, I think this would be a great bonus.

I am using this on a static mannequin, so I'd suggest trying it out for yourself before deciding which way you want to go. If you're really rough on your armor, you might not want to go this route.

Anyway, you can get these clips in the jewelery section of your local Craft's 2000 or other craft store. I got about three packs for a few bucks. This particturlar brand was Darice Jewelry Designer, and they are brass tie tacks w/clutch (nickle plated).

Here are some pics so you get a better idea of how this works . . .

https://www.rings-things.com/hazel-d...3/8/38-739.gif


https://www.rings-things.com/hazel-d...78-1-clsup.gif

i dont think he actually drilled holes the armor just his copies the real set the bolts are just glued

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Originally Posted by Dark Amon

good job Daz !
i search how i fix my bobamaker armor on my flak jacket now i see the answer ! but can i fix the bolt without maked a hole ?

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Where would a person in Australia find these types of eyelets... the only ones we have over here in the 'fabric specialty stores' I can guarantee will slice straight through the Tackle Twill on the outside of my vest... :S

I was wondering how the chest armor fitted on ans I don't like using Velcro to much
it has a nasty habit of coming off,
Cheers for that Info Daz Its very helpful to know

Question : what are the chances of you selling a flak jacket already marked up so some one can add Armor

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Originally Posted by Slave I

Tried out the clips I mentioned previously and I'm

https://www.rings-things.com/hazel-d...3/8/38-739.gif


https://www.rings-things.com/hazel-d...78-1-clsup.gif

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The butterfly clutches I think will work fine for a little while, but they wear out. I got tired of getting stuck by the pins in my uniform when they fall off.. I found these and I'm still using the same ones 2 years later w/ no signs of them wearing out. They are kind of expensive, but a much better alternative to the brass clutches.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...o911/19164.jpg

http://www.galls.com/style.html?asso...og&style=NT002

Sorry for digging up the old thread, but it was a good one.

JB-Weld a 2" to 3" metal disk to the nut. this way it's comfortable and the armor rest a half inch from your chest? my 3 centavos

Oh snap, thanks for the tutorial! Granted, gotta redo the paint on Jodo, but this is how I've been wanting to attach the armor all along, and now you're made it a nice step-by-step process! Thanks for the instructional!

Bump so newer folks like me don't miss this!

Very cool tutorial!

cool and detail tutorial! Great job.. :thumbsup

great tutorial!

great tutorial +1

Newbie here... I have been wondering how the armour was attaced and so far this has been the best Idea. I was planning to use rivits in a similar manner. Thanks!!!

These are a great idea. Where did you find them?

Great idea here, my concern is about using this technique for trash can armor. I used this technique last year for Halloween on my trash can armor. I used hotglue and plumbers epoxy putty, this worked ok, my armor held for most of the night but i had to be careful how i moved, by the time i was heading home though the bolts were breaking off the armor. This year I made a new set of armor and tried to attach the bolts using super glue and then automotive epoxy putty. I didnt get very far, the bolts all snapped off before i even got to attach the putty. I guess my question is is there anyway to use this technique effectively with trashcan armor, or should i save my self some time and effort and just use velcro.
Thanks all

Great Idea! I´ll do the same with snap buttons!

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Originally Posted by vobio

Great idea here, my concern is about using this technique for trash can armor. I used this technique last year for Halloween on my trash can armor. I used hotglue and plumbers epoxy putty, this worked ok, my armor held for most of the night but i had to be careful how i moved, by the time i was heading home though the bolts were breaking off the armor. This year I made a new set of armor and tried to attach the bolts using super glue and then automotive epoxy putty. I didnt get very far, the bolts all snapped off before i even got to attach the putty. I guess my question is is there anyway to use this technique effectively with trashcan armor, or should i save my self some time and effort and just use velcro.
Thanks all

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Some glue doesn't adhere well to the plastic used in trashcan armor. Another thing to make sure to do is use sandpaper to scratch the surface of the plastic to give the glue something to adhere to.

I kept mine very simple. I used thin sheet steel. Looks tough but is bendable with your hands. I hot glued a rubber backing (close to 1/4 of aninch worth). Then I hot glued the rubber backed steel armor onto an Extra Large Pull over (zipper neck) sweat shirt. I hand wash the thing. It works great. If something comes loose I just use a little hot glue for repairs. I didn't make a full back armor. I only made a piece for the shoulders and upper back. I added velcro to the armor and the sweat shirt ( I could have done that on the front pieces but I wanted a solid look and feel on the front). I then added velcro to the jet pack and the back plate armor. Worked great. If I make a Jt pack that is heavier then I will need to rethink the attachment method.
-Indae007

sorry folks but i dont really understand this method.do you actually drill holes in the armour or do you screw from the inside of the flack vest [what i mean is do you put the bolts on to the armour,put the armour onto the vest and then remove the excess from where it would dig into you,the finished pic does not seem to have holes in the actuall armour],thanks

You JB weld or adhere the top of the bolts to the underside of the vest. Then the bolt goes through the grommet in the vest and you screw the nut on the underside(the side facing you) of the vest. You then want to grind the excess amount of the bolt that is sticking out past the nut so that it doesn't dig into you when you are wearing it.

cheers buddy:cheers

as im doing the jango armour would this method work for the leg armour too

You certainly could. I suppose that it would help the armor plates to hold their position but I would still suggest that you also do what most do for Jango's leg armor and have straps running into the jumpsuit that wrap around the leg.

However I would suggest, if you do go that route, that you wear some underarmor pants or something under your flight suit then so you don't have the bolts rubbing into your leg.

very true,maybe i will go with the straps for the legs

Great tutorial!! I'm contemplating on whether to use snaps or bolts with JB Weld on my 3mm Sintra armor set and Pleather vest. I don't plan on countersinking the bolts, if I go the bolt route.

I'm afraid that the bolt method may put too much stress on the sintra's surface. Has anyone had experience with Bolt attachment & Sintra armor?

I know the Sintra & snap method works with good success. Just wondering if I could make it better.

Quality tutorial very helpfull, now to dig out my stab vests and have a play.

Any news on the positioning of the shoulder eyelets? :)

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Originally Posted by JayBox325

Any news on the positioning of the shoulder eyelets? :)

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From the pictures I've seen, the Boba shoulders appear to rotate from the sides near the corners of the armor... almost like a hinge. Looks like two eyelets (on the top farside corners) were used in the original.

I attached mine a little differently though. I used 4 snaps (which work a lot like bolts/eyelets, if you recess them well enough) per shoulder. 1 snap on each of the top 4 corners of the armor. I'd say this method would work for the rotating boba-style, if you removed the top 2 snaps.. leaving the far "side" corner snaps.

The key to mounting the shoulder, which I found out the hard way, is to follow the SEAM of the vest, not the contour of the vest sleeve. I followed the contour of my vest's sleeve first, and it made my shoulders look like WINGS lol.

So I suggest that you focus on aligning the top edge of the shoulder with the vest seam (where the sleeve meets the vest). This will make it angle downward correctly, and give good spacing to the collar and the chestpiece.

It took 4 or 5 people for us to figure out what looked off about my original placement. We couldn't put our finger on it, it just looked funny lol.

Any pictures of where you positioned your eyelets? Sounds very in depth :P

I haven't taken any photos of the eyelets, but I do have photos of my shoulders.

Here they are mounted "correctly" (following the seam of the vest)
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y...r/DSC04847.jpg

Here they are mounted "incorrectly" like wings lol (following the contour of the vest sleeves)
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y...r/DSC04426.jpg

Here is a trimmed photo of my shoulder after correcting it - just happened to have this uploaded
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y...stshoulder.jpg

See where the two green lines intersect? Place a snap or bolt about 1/2" from that corner. Place another snap on the opposite corner. These two snaps/bolts are critical for MY vest. You could attach to the corner where the red/green intersect, but it may leave a more noticeable gap between the fabric and the shoulder - it just depends on your vest.

These two snaps are the only ones you need for the Boba screen-style mounting (someone correct me if I'm wrong), as his appears to rotate freely about this axis point. Forgot where I saw the pictures.

If you want them fixed to the vest (like mine), two more snaps are needed for the top (near the top of the green line). I used two snaps - one at each of the "top corners".

Jango's vest extends beyond the shoulder plate (mine does not, obviously), and this will require a couple more snaps/bolts to hold the vest to the bottom of the shoulders. I would attach these to the corners also.

What size grommets are the the best to use? 3/8, 1/4?