Visor installation?

depending on the hot glue it can work that way..but a lot of hot glue will stick to the visor and latter just pop off from the helmet side.
 
Hi...again.............here is how I install my visor in my Asok helmet.............cold epoxi used.........


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So, using the Chicago screw method, it I want to bond the screws to the helmet what adhesive works best? I was thinking of counter sinking them ever so slightly and using bondo to adhere them in. Will that work?
 
i use chicago screws to hold my visor at the corners of the eyes then i did this at the bottom of the mandibles:

DSC02860.jpg
 
I will be using your chicago screw / washer method (or the t-bolt method first mentioned, if I can find them locally).

IMO, I think the visor should be replaceable like this, in case you want to troop at night, or in case you want to tint your visor... and most importantly: in case you scratch or crack your old one too badly.
 
Has anyone tried the chicago screw method but instead of making a hole in the visor let the washer make pressure on one side, I don't know if I explained myself clearly, I think I saw a picture of somebody with that type of installation but can't find that post anymore... I have my visor to install in my 97 don Post but theres not much space in the bottom part of the mandibules to install a screw like the ones I see here, may need to go with a hybrid of screws and hot glue gun in the bottom.....
 
Ok, so I was thinking abut a method to install the visor that could be easy to install and remove without the use of tools or drilling into my visor, some kind of clip on/clip off method, so I was looking for some kind of flat clip that will accommodate the 3mm acrylic of the visor I bought from T-Visor.com but wasn't able to find them, so I had to build my own. So I started with a standard small paper clip 3/4" (19mm) I got at Office Depot, this are really cheap, I don't know in the US, but here are less than a dollar for 12 pieces.

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then remove one of the "legs" and flat out one side using some pliers...

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I did cut the flat side using a dremmel tool cutting discs to remove the round part that used to hold the "leg" to make it as flat as possible to glue it flush to the edge of the helmet, I used plastic welder 2 part glue and it works like a charm gluing metal to plastic, remember to sand a little bit the plastic part in the helmet to give it a better grip...I installed 3 on top and 4 on the vertical part of the T, I have no problem on the sides of the horizontal part.

IMG_2422.JPG

I left the remaining leg on the 3 top clips, it makes it a lot easier to slide the visor in and on the vertical part the visor just slides in with no effort at all...

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Hope this helps, I'm happy with the result...
 
I'm using the chicago screw & kitchen faucet washer method for my Assassin helmet visor. Pick up the "Size 0" kitchen faucet washers.. they fit the chicago screws well and measure 1/8" thick. Try to get the 3/16" long chicago screws or smaller if you have a standard 1/16" thick visor. I had the 1/4" screws, but they were too long & I did not want to countersink them too deep into the helmet.

I sanded a slight recess (about 1/16" deep) in the helmet and dabbed plastic bonder epoxy on the bottom of the bolts. I taped them down to the helmet till the glue dried. Since this wasn't a real strong bond, I went in with JB Weld filler around the bolt & to fill in the recess more.

Now I have bolts attached firmly to the helmet. The only question now is, "How do I mark the visor for holes?" The bolts are not lined up exactly with the template, so I have to remark the holes on the visor/template. Thinking I'll put some masking tape on the template (which is taped to my visor cut-out) and some paint or nailpolish on the bolts. Then TRY to press it down to line it up.
 
Hello,

I´ve tried to use the chicago screw method. I get the visor on the helmet. But there is still a little bit space between the helmet ant the visor. When i look in front of it. At the side and at the bottom where is no place for the screws. now i don´t know if it´s ok or if the visor must sit without any space. How is it with your helmet is there still some space? I´m afraid to go on an try it with epoxy or hot glue. i don´t want to ruin my helmet.
 
The only question now is, "How do I mark the visor for holes?" The bolts are not lined up exactly with the template, so I have to remark the holes on the visor/template. Thinking I'll put some masking tape on the template (which is taped to my visor cut-out) and some paint or nailpolish on the bolts. Then TRY to press it down to line it up.

The template will indeed be your best method. Just make sure that you've got your visors front surface completely covered in masking tape to protect it. Do not remove the masking tape from your visor until after you've got the alignment holes drilled, and the visor is ready to be installed... I'd even go further and recommend that you dry-fit the visor as well before removing the protective masking tape.

Hello,

I´ve tried to use the chicago screw method. I get the visor on the helmet. But there is still a little bit space between the helmet ant the visor. When i look in front of it. At the side and at the bottom where is no place for the screws. now i don´t know if it´s ok or if the visor must sit without any space. How is it with your helmet is there still some space? I´m afraid to go on an try it with epoxy or hot glue. i don´t want to ruin my helmet.

Jackfrost, a small space between the visor and helmet is fine. You can reduce the gap by counter-sinking the chicago screws a bit prior to gluing them in place. I actually find the gap to be ideal, as it's hardly noticable when you're wearing the helmet, and allows for some air-flow over the visor which helps to reduce the fogging effects... I find that my visor only fogs on the lower portion, below my nose, so has no effect on my vision.
 
Thank you Jango72. I butchered the mounting holes a little bit (not all of them fit), and I did not think to use making tape.. Wish I did, as I scratched the visor with scissors (note - do not cut TOWARDS the visor with scissors. Use the exacto knife when cutting towards the visor). Fortunately, I can't see the scratch when it's installed, and I can't see it from the inside. If I could, I'd just make it into weathering. :)

Here is a pic of the Assassin helmet with the visor installed via chicago screws. I used more than necessary. I suggest removing the two in the middle of the "mouth" section. I'd also consider removing the one in the top middle area.

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Is there a template for cutting out the t visor from a tinted sheet? My Asok CC came with a sheet for the visor but it has a curve to it so I think I will have to take it out before I cut it. What are the dimensions for the visor? T-visor.com has a few different ones, which one would fit my lid?
 
I usually tape the visor so that it won't melt on you and then cut it out with a dremel. I don't use a template I just cut it to fit the exact bucket that I am working on.
 
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