Thanks, I picked up some JB weld.
Thanks, I picked up some JB weld.
i use chicago screws to hold my visor at the corners of the eyes then i did this at the bottom of the mandibles:
I will be using your chicago screw / washer method (or the t-bolt method first mentioned, if I can find them locally).
IMO, I think the visor should be replaceable like this, in case you want to troop at night, or in case you want to tint your visor... and most importantly: in case you scratch or crack your old one too badly.
Has anyone tried the chicago screw method but instead of making a hole in the visor let the washer make pressure on one side, I don't know if I explained myself clearly, I think I saw a picture of somebody with that type of installation but can't find that post anymore... I have my visor to install in my 97 don Post but theres not much space in the bottom part of the mandibules to install a screw like the ones I see here, may need to go with a hybrid of screws and hot glue gun in the bottom.....
Ok, so I was thinking abut a method to install the visor that could be easy to install and remove without the use of tools or drilling into my visor, some kind of clip on/clip off method, so I was looking for some kind of flat clip that will accommodate the 3mm acrylic of the visor I bought from T-Visor.com but wasn't able to find them, so I had to build my own. So I started with a standard small paper clip 3/4" (19mm) I got at Office Depot, this are really cheap, I don't know in the US, but here are less than a dollar for 12 pieces.
then remove one of the "legs" and flat out one side using some pliers...
I did cut the flat side using a dremmel tool cutting discs to remove the round part that used to hold the "leg" to make it as flat as possible to glue it flush to the edge of the helmet, I used plastic welder 2 part glue and it works like a charm gluing metal to plastic, remember to sand a little bit the plastic part in the helmet to give it a better grip...I installed 3 on top and 4 on the vertical part of the T, I have no problem on the sides of the horizontal part.
I left the remaining leg on the 3 top clips, it makes it a lot easier to slide the visor in and on the vertical part the visor just slides in with no effort at all...
Hope this helps, I'm happy with the result...
I'm using the chicago screw & kitchen faucet washer method for my Assassin helmet visor. Pick up the "Size 0" kitchen faucet washers.. they fit the chicago screws well and measure 1/8" thick. Try to get the 3/16" long chicago screws or smaller if you have a standard 1/16" thick visor. I had the 1/4" screws, but they were too long & I did not want to countersink them too deep into the helmet.
I sanded a slight recess (about 1/16" deep) in the helmet and dabbed plastic bonder epoxy on the bottom of the bolts. I taped them down to the helmet till the glue dried. Since this wasn't a real strong bond, I went in with JB Weld filler around the bolt & to fill in the recess more.
Now I have bolts attached firmly to the helmet. The only question now is, "How do I mark the visor for holes?" The bolts are not lined up exactly with the template, so I have to remark the holes on the visor/template. Thinking I'll put some masking tape on the template (which is taped to my visor cut-out) and some paint or nailpolish on the bolts. Then TRY to press it down to line it up.
Iīve tried to use the chicago screw method. I get the visor on the helmet. But there is still a little bit space between the helmet ant the visor. When i look in front of it. At the side and at the bottom where is no place for the screws. now i donīt know if itīs ok or if the visor must sit without any space. How is it with your helmet is there still some space? Iīm afraid to go on an try it with epoxy or hot glue. i donīt want to ruin my helmet.
Thank you Jango72. I butchered the mounting holes a little bit (not all of them fit), and I did not think to use making tape.. Wish I did, as I scratched the visor with scissors (note - do not cut TOWARDS the visor with scissors. Use the exacto knife when cutting towards the visor). Fortunately, I can't see the scratch when it's installed, and I can't see it from the inside. If I could, I'd just make it into weathering. :)
Here is a pic of the Assassin helmet with the visor installed via chicago screws. I used more than necessary. I suggest removing the two in the middle of the "mouth" section. I'd also consider removing the one in the top middle area.
This is great. Thx for sharing.
great tutorial ill try for this
Thanks for your tip / info.!:thumbsup
Is there a template for cutting out the t visor from a tinted sheet? My Asok CC came with a sheet for the visor but it has a curve to it so I think I will have to take it out before I cut it. What are the dimensions for the visor? T-visor.com has a few different ones, which one would fit my lid?
I usually tape the visor so that it won't melt on you and then cut it out with a dremel. I don't use a template I just cut it to fit the exact bucket that I am working on.
Ok, a couple of questions regarding the visor. What color should it be? the visor that I got from Asok with my CC bucket is green, but the visor I just recieved from t-visor.com is brown, which one should I use? Second, should I sand the inside of the helm so the visor fits snuggly against the inside? How far down should it go, should it line up with the bottom of the helm where the visor goes? What color should I paint the inside? I am not looking for 100% accuracy, but something that would pass the 501st. I think I am going the chicago screw method, so at least I have an idea of how I am going to put the visor in the helm, once I figure out which one I should use.
I have a question bout this "chicago Screw method" If I were to use a screw and nut to hold my visor how would I get the hole in my helmet also wouldn't I have to worry bout the edge of the screw popping out of the other side of my helmet? how should I do this.. I just want to make sure I get it right
I did a little research on this and lowes and home depot all these binding screws, not Chicago screws.
I didn't even think of the chicago screws - I have a bunch leftover from a belt I made a while back. Thanks for the tips, TDH!
Anyone had their T-Visor crack? I was drilling the holes into the visor so I can use the bolt method and it cracked in half. The bit is new and sharp, and I didn't put any pressure on it at all. It's a nice visor, but seems very brittle.
I'm thinking I'll go for the Jango72 method, I'm a neat freak and want the inside of my helmet to be as clean and organized as possible, I plan on painting the inside of mine as well just to keep it clean.
The results were always horrible looking, but yet we continued to do it to all our cars, you may get it almost perfect, but the odd air bubble always popped up.
Oh the memories.
Has anyone tried using rare earth magnets? I have seen them used on just about everyother part of costumes. I imagine a small, low profile magnet could be glued inside the helmet and then dry fit the trimmed visor in and put another magnet on the inside of the visor then mark it and take it out to glue it in place. It seems like it would work great in my mind. Im not up to that point on my bucket. I will take pics and update in my build if it works.
I found a full face shield at a welding supply shop today that I think will work perfect. I was able to get it in a really dark tint with a green tint to it and it was only $6.10. They didn't have it in stock though, but it will be in on Wednesday. I'll post some pics when I get it.
The magnet idea might work, but I don't know of anyone that has tried it. I wa aging to do it with the binding screws, but I became too impatient and just used epoxy and hot glue. It looks like poop on the inside but it should hold and you can't see anything from the outside of the helm so that's good enough for now.