Nice work fixing it in.
Nice work fixing it in.
For the visors are are you guys heating and bending to get the curve?
where do you get the tee-bolt shanks? and how long should they be? the people at my local home depot looked at me like i was nuts when i asked about it.
You'll find them down the fastener aisle, in the specialty bins. ( the rotating towers with the flip out bins. )
Just ask them for "chicago screws". ;)
i may have to go to lowes, since bozeman has the second smallest home depot in the country.
If you can't find any, LMK. I can pick em up easy from my AO and have em shipped over.
You could either cut out thin strips that overlap the visor and the helmet and hot glue them in. Or depending how thick the visor is you might find similar thickness material and make tabs to be joined to the edges(hot glue). Or get some thin clear plastic sheet and cut out another visor 3mm larger than the original visor and laminate them together. Depending on usage, wear and tear, you could just overlap enough hot glue and edge joint the visor in, holdind it in place til it dries.
With the fastner method, how thick are the washers you guys are using? Thanks!
Hmmm.... I have a conundrum! I went the CHicago screw method, and it worked great.... sort of.... Though I epoxied the bases into the helmet, they popped right off when i put the visor in place! :cry
My bucket it a redone DP vinyl. What then, is the best substance to affix aluminum posts to a Vinyl surface? I had sanded to surface where the contact point is to rough it up a bit, but it didn't seem to help much. I had not however roughed up the aluminum surface of the post. Would that make all the difference? Would a cyanoacrylate (krazy glue) work better?
I guess my question is ultimately, what adhesive will make this thing stick strong enough to hold an elephant? Thanks folks!
Bump! Any thoughts? :confused
Not only rough up the surface of the helmet, but drill mini holes and bore out a bit of a crater in the helmet. Give the JB Weld everything you can for it to grab a hold of. Simply just sanding the surface won't do the job.
Thanks for the input suspect. I made a second go of anchoring these suckers in, and it seems to have done the trick! I not only sanded the contact points, but used the dremel to make cross-hatched scoring on both surfaces. after expoying the surface itself, I goobed some epoxy all around the base too, just for good measure. This seems to have done the trick. I didn't have time to snap some pictures, but I will over the next few days I think.
On a slightly related topic- One of the pokers I have in the fire involves a MR ESB helmet. If the deal goes through I am definitely planning on using the FP/others pincher-fix to shore up the final product.
Since that involves a T-visor replacement, I was thinking about different ways one could get that "Fett gaze".. In so many words, I was wondering if anyone has thought about backing a lightly/medium tinted T-visor with some kind of extremely thin (think less than paper) one-way mirrored material? I was hoping that maybe with this idea one could get a fairly large amount of light into the helmet, but almost no transmittance out- making it absorb light while still being extremely shiny.
F.Y.I. They even got green mirror film-
Is it even worth experimenting with?
I tried my hand at tinting paper a few times with the most horrible results.:angry:angry:angry It's a great idea in retrospect but it quickly becomes nothing more than a giant headache.
Example; tinting glass(like on a car window) is pretty easy but it's still tough to get it right without having any air bubbles between the glass and the window tint. You have to smooth out the tint repeatedly with a squeegee until all of the bubbles are gone. Sounds pretty simple. Now try doing that on a plastic surface that flexes a whole lot. As the plastic changes shape it causes the tint to tighten and loosen causing bubbles and sometimes even tears. Even if you get the tinting finished and set before you put your visor in, you're still screwed. The second you go to put the visor in, you're already starting to bend it a little, which will ruin everything. Trust me. I've tried it 3 times, and every time I've ended up throwing out the piece. I even tried tinting it after the visor was installed but you're working with such a small area that's it's very difficult to get to any of it just to smooth it out.
My 2 cents.
thanks for listening.
Whew- thanks for the warning suspect! Sounds like a major S.I.A.P. that just got avioded there. What kind of lens do you recommend to get the really dark yet still lusterly appearance?
I've seen straight dark tint and dark green...
I picked up a tinted face shield from Harbor Freight for less than $5. Heard about it on these forums. Looks like it should work pretty well after trimming to the right size.
i just got my MR helmet. Any suggestions on what to use for installing a new visor? Some sort of bonding glue? or bolts perhaps? Also, does anyone know if a BM visor would fit in there, or should i custom cut my own?
I used this method they all are talking about with the T bolts on my MR clone bucket with great success. I used plastic weld to hold them in and had no issues. you could also use resin as well just keep in mind resin expands a tad so if the T bolt is got a hollow base it could get into the threads and give you a hard time.
hey guys, question,
my helmet doesn't have a flat surface for the visor installation, rather, it has edges that protrude a bit creating only an outline surface
You can't see it that well in this picture, but hopefully it gives you an idea
I don't really care too much about the inside look, but the visor doesn't exactly line up exactly to hit all the points (sides, bottom, and T intersection) for bolts.
What would you guys recommend?
I'm not exactly sure, but it looks like you have either a DP or Rubies. I had the same problem with my son's Rubies. What I had to do is CAREFULLY trim the inside of the visor area to make the visor sit flush.
hmmm... yeah, I bought my helmet second hand from a guy who didn't know much about it either. Its made of a resin, so its possible that its a DP or Rubies (the rangefinder flips down).
anyhow, I was afraid I'd have to do that... (so I'm still kinda hoping someone might suggest something else, heh) did you use glue or bolts after that?
I used hot glue.