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Hi,
I have just bought myself an Asok CC helmet. And I am hoping to paint it up (obv). However, every single post about paints is all in reference to US or Jap paint companies that I don't get over here. Are there any UK Fetteers that have had the same problem? I would rather not have to pay postage on paint from the US.
I think that just the reds and the greens are needed, black is generic as are browns for weathering, so they don't matter too much.
Cheers.
I think the paints they use for the jango lids are rustoleum royal blue and rustoleum ocean blue. I know homebase stock some rustoleum colours and having a quick look on their site shows me they do the ocean blue,
Homebase - www.homebase.co.uk -just search for Rustoleum Blue.
Perhaps if you go to a store they might have the royal blue there, or maybe some of the other blues will be good alternatives.
Hope that helps,
Welsh
Sorry, I should have mentioned I was working on Boba Fett. My bad. But thanks! I didn't know homebase stocked that stuff.
This is on Homebase. I know most people use Spruce Green as the main green, I have found Sage green, and it looks very accurate. Has anyone used this colour?
http://www.homebase.co.uk/wcsstore/h...HBO111111X.jpg
Nope my bad, I saw Asok and thought of Jango, forgot that he now does boba.
I actually bought some rustoleum cans to paint a boba lid before I went down the airbrush route. The colours I went for were:
Plasticote super gloss silver
Rustoleum sage green (for the dome and cheeks)
Rustoleum Oxford green (for the back section)
Dark grey
Strawflower
Balmoral
Some of these are gloss colours so I went and bought a satin clear coat. These by all means are no where near accurate, and I never actually used them, but goin by the colours of the caps they look decent.
Why don't you try the airbrush route, it's really not that difficult? You can pick up a cheap airbrush and can for about £25, then the paints are only a few pounds.
Welsh,
Ahh, I need accurate. I am hoping to get 501st accepted. But I can't afford to spend the money on an airbrush for just the helmet. I have armour and everything painted already. I am after the spray cans really. I am hoping to get the correct colours, but spruce green etc are hard to find :(
I have seen I need:
Spruce Green, (Don't know what red), a generic khaki(?), black & I don't know what colours I need for the back, because I know it's more bluey green than green :P
First what version are you doing, as paint colors are not the same on the two...if you get rustoleum over there I may be able to help
I am doing an ESB one. I think we can get rustoleum over here, but it's very limited. I am going to the shop tonight that is rumoured to sell them ;) so if I can have a list to work from, that would be AWEEEESOMEEEEEE.
Look for Moss green for the green on the dome and cheeks, you'll need flat black for the upper cheek, claret whine (red for the mandibles) or colonial red, Im kinda torn on this one the claret whine is a bit darker marroon color the colonial red is more red than marroon.... theres khaki for the back as well as a mix of hunter green and navy blue U need another color for under the red which is like abiguine or something....i got two cans when they had it cause the funny colors tend to not be around to long and its a perfect match...you'll need paprika for the left ears red, as well as itailian olive, and a dark grey for underneath for everywhere...also youll want silver, and a marigold color for the kill stripes all painters touch from rusto 2x coverage
Wow. I have got myself a Cold Cast helm. I have some Games Workshop Warhammer "Boltgun metal" which I was thinking about using to touch up the scratches (Will this work)? I was planning on buying decals for the kill stripes. If I don't use the two different colours (Red & strange colour), but just the red, will it be 501st acceptable? Finally, in terms of mixing two colours on one patch (back) how can i get them to blend nicely without just painting over one colour with another?
Cheers, sorry about this, I'm really not wanting to **** up my helm ;)
Misting them, while wet basically...look at different threads here of helmet paint ups using layers with liquid masking...I would reccomend NOT using decals for the stripes as they were painted on and have a painted look to them not a decal...they also change color, not just yellow...look at TONS of pics untill you are ready to paint dont jump into it...its not easy but its not hard if you take your time.
Cool, thanks for all your help mate. This is my plan:
- Liquid latex to keep the Cold Cast for scratches where I want the scratches.
- Mask then spray dome & cheeks green each piece their colour.
- Remove liquid latex.
- touch up scratches with 'Boltgun metal'.
Sound good? In terms of decals for the ear pieces, would you say yes or would you say that painting them would be better too?
either...they were decals of sorts the rub on kind used for models
Well, I might paint the black with white U shapes and the black stripes on the right ear cap. What other bits are there that would usually require decals? I may buy a template for the kill stripes, because I am a fussy **** in relation to straight lines. :P
You could buy a template BUT I doubt it will be in proportion to the paint....the kill stripes go around damage in places, which is why I paint them on when I do them...U can make your own template for them with masking tape and the masking fluid together to have the crisp lines where there are crisp lines
Cool, I will have to give it a go :( *worried face* Can you give me dimensions of each line/how many? Cheers
check out rafals templates bud...there is every bit of damage on the helmet by section
Legend. Cheers mate. Still not able to find Moss Green or Panzer Olive Green which is what he used. :( Still struggling to find the green, sorted for all the rest... . ERG!
I have seen three names keep popping up:
Spruce Green, Panzer Olive Green and Moss green.
Are they all pretty much the same? Turns out I can order any Rustoleum paints at Homebase :)
If you can get Tamiya spray paint there are somer good colours that they have
Don't think I am able to get them anywhere here. Haven't seen them about.
JayBox,
Get yourself a cheap airbrush and some humbrol paint. best way in my opinion and closer to the right colours.
I've heard people use halfords paint (red oxide) for caboose.
Have a look at terminal fettler thread.
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f23/o...int-job-30707/
also superjedi.
There are loads of great paint up thread's here, have nosey round.
@BGHunter -
I have just popped to my local hobby store and they sell small Tamiya spray cans for £5.99 a pop. What colours were you going to recommend from them?
PMed as well.
I think its called german Field grey or just field grey, how ever its is actually a bit light so in the past Ivbe used that with a dust coating of a darker green Ill have a look through my paints to see the other names later today
Thanks mate, I have got pretty much everything sorted out with the odd cheap Rustoleum paint that's on sale & some cheap local spray paints that are pretty generic i.e. Navy Blue. But a name for an accurate Tamyia paint would be AWESOME.
An accurate GREEN Tamiya spray paint, sorry.
Its XF-65 field grey. But i dont think its available on the spray cans. Your only option is to buy the bottles. Acrylics or enamels is good as long as you put on a clear flat coat on top to protect your paint. Personally i would use enamels as its much tougher than the acrylic counterpart. Enamels just take longer to dry.
Field grey (trust me, it is actually green and not grey), is indeed the tamiya colour you are after, and it does definately come in the spray can version. The uk may not be exactly the same as here in australia, but if you have any graffiti art shops that stock 'Ironlak' spray paints, they are awesome, and I made an empire helmet paintup thread a while back listing all these colours. I still found the best green to use from a can, was a colourbond colour called 'rivergum/willow'. The brand was 'anchor paints', and got it at my local hardware store. Good luck bud!
No way!!! I have a shop that sells ironlak ones!! Awesome. What green works from them? Cheers
As for using enamels . Tamiya spray paint is very hard wearing goes on well has a good solid finish and works well with other paints . One of the best option you can get in spray cans for painting helmets
Unfortunantly (Ironlak) dont have a good green
yep, that was the only problem. Ironlak was great for just about every colour bar the green - thats where i used the rivergum/willow coulour instead..
Tamiya spray cans are Laquer btw. Fyi. Ive used them for years on scale models. Very tough and very good. Very expensive where you live though. Out here they cost around $4 a can.
Helmet - Green: Field Grey (Tamiya)
Mandibles - Red: Claret Wine (Rustoleum)
Back panels & right ear - Khaki: Khaki (Rustoleum)
Back panels - Navy Blue: Similar colour (Ironlak)
Back panels - Green: _____ // recommended 'Hunter Green' by Rustoleum
Left ear- Olive Green: Similar colour (Ironlak)
Dark basecoat - Dark Grey: Similar colour (Ironlak)
Misting upper cheek - Black: Black (eBay)
Primer - Primer: Primer (eBay)
Left ear scratches - Red: Similar colour (Ironlak)
This is my plan, have I missed anything? Also, my Khaki paint is a glossy one, is that an issue?
All looks good exept Id sugest ussing a different green on the left ear , also mabey try Tamiya dull red for the main red
All looks good exept Id sugest ussing a different green on the left ear mabey Tamiya british green , also mabey try Tamiya dull red for the main red also for the upper cheeks you could go for Tamiya matt black
I've already bought a matt black off eBay for £3. Tamiya Britsh Green? Ok, but the green on the left ear is just a dulled down light green, and Tamiya paints are £1 more than Ironlak haha.
p.s. do you work for Tamiya? :P
Dulled down light green? no its darker than the main colour on the helmet, but do what works for you
and the black you have will be fine,
Oh yeah, so it is.
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/attac...699d1303030088
I will be working from this :)
pretty good, for the back panels, i actually used an Ironlak colour called 'neverland' - its a green blue - probably more on the bluer side, but i thought it was pretty accurrate on its own. If you do a search for a thread of mine titled something like 'jayvees jinto lid esb paintup', you will see these colours in action plus which ones I used listed down. I actually like ironlak 'matador' for the mandibles too - but by all accounts, the claret wine is a good option too. let me know if you have any questions bud..
Thanks mate. So good. I think I may take back my Rustoleum Khaki paint, as I just realised it's a gloss. I may just get an Ironlak one. But which shade!? ahhh
Colour chart:
http://www.ironlak.com/product_aerosols_ironlak.html
for those reading this, here is the link to his AMAZING helmet paint up.
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f23/j...aint-up-41419/
Your gunna need quite a few cans mate..Make sure you a few cans of the main colours
Thanks for the kind words mate. While I was happy with it being my first paintup, its still far from perfect, with ALOT of room for improvement, but I learnt much along the way, so I am hoping my new lid will be as accurate as possible, and be even more spot on. But again I do appreciate the kind words.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBox325
I would still go for the neverland for the back panels, but for the ear, its a tough one - you may need to mist a couple together, but the charts are often not that accurate in comparison to the colour in person. check out the actual cans in the store - it will give you a much better representation.
One other thing, as Ironlak are grafitti based paints, you often get a few differrent nozzles with them. Use these to your advantage. I usually found two types of fatter nozzles worked best. one was pink with a black dot on the nozzle, and one was black. the pink one was a mister, and the black one gave really good coverage. I would lightly 'dust coat' my colour on with the pink mister nozzle, then change to the coverage nozzle, and standing back, give it multiple lighter coats. once happy, I would lightly coat again, using the mister nozzle. seemed to come out nice every time - just make sure you dont go too thick and stand too close - always better to do more light coats than have it drip. With the ironlak cans though, you should only need one can of each. cheers bud
Cool. The guy in the hobby shop said the Tamiya green paint should be enough for just the dome & cheeks. I am now just worrying about my liquid mask I was going to use. I was going to use liquid latex as a cover. But you can't see through that so I may not be as neat as I could be so what would be the best way to apply the latex? I have read somewhere that using a sponge cut down to a point works well...
i use a colour shaper, size 0.
Made by Royal Sovereign.
It has a silicon tip that the latex can't stick to.
a good art shop should stock it.
Brushes and Palette Knives - Royal Sovereign Colour Shapers - Hard Tip | Art Supplies Online
Thanks mate. Was wondering about a precise brush that wouldn't let the latex stick to it. But now I know what they're called! Unfortunately everywhere that sells them online charge a billion pounds for postage. Another lunch break search I think! :P
Also, just spent £25 on paint. Getting excited now!
This is a great base to look at but also use pics from the gallery , as these are some one else's interpritationQuote:
Originally Posted by JayBox325
Id also say get a dull coat / clear matt coat to give it all a uniformed finish when its done , but do a test first just incase the paints react. Infact when mixing brand of spray paint ALWAYS! do some testers on a sheet of plastice or something with a close texture to what you are painting on ,as many good paint jobs have been ruined by paints reacting with each other, this can happen even if the paints are both Acrylic, laqure or enamels , so always do a tester
Hmmm, for a tester I'm going to have to use a bit of metal, primer it and then test it. Grr. haha. Thanks for all your help mate!
if you think how many normal brushes you'd go through using liquid mask just under £8.00 isn't bad at all.
considering a decent 0 or 00 brush cost around that price.
Cool, I bought a rubber brush, taper tipped. So it's like a rubber cone on a brush ;) Will do the trick perfectly!! £3.40 at my local arts store!
Now you have the tools, hope to see how you get on with your ESB paint job.
Thanks mate, I will most likely post a thread of my paint up. But if not, track my blog that is linked in my Signature :)
Also, the one thing that's bothering me... I have seen the upper cheeks to be all black, seen them to be grey and black misted, and I have seen them to be green & black misted. Which one works for the ESB helm?
Bad news. The local shop that sold Ironlak paints, can't afford to order 'Neverland' as they come in boxes of twelve. As mentioned before, neverland is as close as you can get for the back panels. So I need a new approach for the back panels. Any help?
This is the example square for Montana Gold 'Pine' that looks similar:
http://www.utrechtart.com/images/pro...-gold-pine.jpg
also, 'hunter' is Ironlak and is one shade lighter than Neverland. But I don't want to have to darken it with blacks etc. :( Not sure if this will work.
if you have a look at the humbrol colours that terminal fettler uses on his thread.
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f23/u...int-job-30707/
you my find a better colour match. i've gone through montana gold and black aswell as belton but the colours never right.
the back green is a mist of two colours. looking at those colours through a monitor can be a little deceptive.
as i've mentioned before, airbrush is the way to go.
upper cheeks, i go black and then weathered them
I can't really take the time to learn how to airbrush, and I have already spent £25 in spray paint :P Also, that link was "Page not found".
Sorry, this should work.
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f23/o...int-job-30707/
Cool, cheers. He used a mixture of 76 and 96.. which are Uniform Green & RAF Blue. In terms of mixing two spray paints, what is the technique to use so they don't just sit on top of eachother or go patchy?
BUMP. Answer to this question will help A LOT. :) ^
I don't know how you're going to mix / fade these two colours to get the right colour tone, without it looking like two paint's mixed together.
Back in my graff day's i used to intermix spray's together.
I only suggested looking at terminal fettler thread, so you could have a physical colour reference to go by.
As humbrol paint's are readily available here in the UK.
I suggest mix the 76 and 96 together how he states on his thread and get a colour that's closest to it.
That way your not to wide off the mark.
As many people on here use a combination of colours to get the right green/blue colour for the rear panels.
Cool, cheers. I was going to do the layer of blue then mist with another... I can't mix two paints together as I don't have an airbrush. :(
if you cant get neverland, the only other colour I found straight out of a can, was another brand called MTN 94, and the colour was 'Glory Blue'. A little differrent shade to Neverland, but on close inspection, if I was going the spray can route again, I may actually prefer it, as its not quite as deep a colour. Failing finding that colour, im not completely sure of the best move. Hunter could be an option, as could the montana 'pine', but as i havnt used either, probably worth colour testing each, as the colour chart colour can differ significantly to the actual colour..
Yeah, thing is they're both £5+ each. :( Would be expensive to buy one test it, find out it's wrong then have to buy the other. Grrr. Thanks anyway.
buy it test it, then return it with a clean cap? The nozzle that is
Wow, i get those for £3.50.
Expensive it is, just bear in mind like BGHunter mentioned in his post about peoples interpretation.
Look at the gallery and make sure the colours you've chosen compliment each other like the original colours do.
You may have to change some of the colours you already have.
Also look into alien paint that montana and belton do, maybe misting the transparent alien paint over a certain green will get a close enough colour.
also the colour changes when you dull coat it. you have alot of thing's to account for. you have your work cut out.