Here's a quick shot of the new tool in action (toothpick). I made this from Perspex with a carbon tube as the shaft, feels good in the hand and is lightweight. Also i can sand a super fine point into the Perspex when needed. It works like a quill pen so there is a slight groove which retains some of the liquid mask...
Also this is the re-done left ear, totally stripped back and layered again...
Ah! Very clever these humans.
I never said i was human...
But i am...
Yup, yup, amazing work Tinkercorn..
You're only jealous guys...
Back on topic please people!
Here's a shot of the left ear on the helmet, green applied and the white arch masked with the excellent Tamiya masking tape and Humbrol liquid mask. This will be masked off now while the rest of the helmet is painted, then the decals added and a final weathering and sealing layer applied at the finish.
I've used both Tamiya tape and plain blue painter's tape when masking off
my ear arches. I find that whichever one I choose, I have to cut it lengthwise
very thin to get it to conform to the curves.
Do you have the same issue? I know that the Tamiya tape comes in different
widths, but even the narrowest that I can find still wants to wrinkle up when
laying it down around a curve. Especially the inner curve, which is much tighter.
Yep, i use 18 and 6mm Tamiya tape. For the arch I cut down the 6mm to a 2mm width to form the tight curve, then fill in with the off cut and the wider tape. The Tamiya tape seems to be waxed so removes easily and leaves super sharp paint lines...
Cool, thanks! The measurements that I use for the kill stripe spacing on GMH helmets
is 6 mm, so that size Tamiya tape works out perfectly.
Interesting you should mention the kill stripes. I find that i have to mask vertically with thin strips, then mask the gap in between; so the vertical lines are not parallel? Because of the curve of the dome, do you find this?
I don't, actually. From what I've gathered from the reference pics, each stripe
is basically a plain rectangle. There's no noticeable taper from bottom to top.
Here's one of the most oblique shots I have from one of the AoSW exhibits.
I've taken a chunk from the bottom of the stripe and moved it to the top of
the stripe. There doesn't appear to be any reduction in width.
I think that since the stripes are so close to the base of the dome, and that they are
not that tall relative to the overall height of the dome, masking them as rectangles works
well. If the stripes were, say, twice as tall, then they would have to have some sort of
taper if the goal was to keep the space between them even.
As a sort of newbie to the TDH & having never seen a TF paintup thread before, i had no idea what had generated the anticipation & excitement of this thread by the legends of fett-painting..... Until I did a search thru the archieves for past threads....
Wow- what a treat for a screen accuracy nerd! ( as I consider myself). Fair dinkum' -- when looking at one particular photo, its easy to think that your looking at an exhibit shot of the real thing.
Fantastic job- glad you came out of retirement to play again.
Looking forward to each update.... & more man-humour!
Last edited by mickxc; Nov 6, 2013 at 11:39 PM. Reason: Bad spelling the 1st time! #@%#
Well that was fun! That's the base grey masked ready for the silver layer...
Do you layer the whole back? If so, what color order do you go in? I was trying to do it from the silver up, but it has been quite difficult!
And from the looks of the sharpness and awesomeness of the stencilling and masking, I think the "I have a bad feeling about this" is just a clever ruse.. Looks awesome and detailed as ever, even at this early stage. Folks, If you want tips on fine liquid masking, and how it should look before you layer the next colour, look no further...
Even after all the time I've been doing helmets, I'm still fascinated and amazed watching
an entire helmet done by layering.
I love how sharp that masking is! This will look terrific coming thru the silver layer.
In regards to the comment written across the tape.
"Rule #76. No excuses. Paint like a Champion."