As with all of these paintups, I think it comes down to whether you want it to look how it looks now, how it looked when it was first made, or how it would look if it was "real"
If I'm wearing something out with the 501st, I want it to look "real" -- so there would be no scratches down to white, since the theory is that the helmet is silver / metal to begin with.
If I want it for display it would be one of the other options. I haven't ever been a fan of helmets that recreate obvious post-production damage like blue sharpies or poorly fixed cracks.
In this case though, for the white showing through, I'm torn... when I do mine I suspect I'll leave that silver, but I think in your pics it's showing white gelcoat.
You said what I WANTED to say but couldnt find the words to say it STG...thanks
I guess its down to if your a costumer or a replica collector , seems the costumers want it to look real and those who are only in to replication want to make it look as the actual piece is,
Neither are wrong or right just different points of view,
But for SuperJedis who is out to replicate the original, then mask out the white first , simple
I personally am doing a replica of it as it is now cut marks and all and for my manaquin that I,m making look as it was in the original photo shoots Im making another helmet look like it was then , with the interior workings and all
Trouble with the pre-pros is there's very scant reference compared to the screen-used buckets.
With so little evidence of how it looked fresh out of the painting area all those years ago, we have to rely on the photos.
Here's something I've noticed in a couple of the reference pics.
This first shot is a promo shot. Notice the areas where I have made comments.
Here's a similar angle of the helmet "X" amount of time later. Look at those same two areas.
Unfortunately, there just aren't enough photos of the helmet during its promo heyday to make the same kinds of observations. Frustrating indeed!
Anyway, not much time during the week to work on the helmet. I did some tests with various shades of gray to try to pick the best combo for the key slot area.
Now that you showed that pic...At C5 they had a Fett Picture bundle...and the cover is of the PP2...and theres the same no chip and broken patern...
And also the yellow crayon is gone in the later pics
and the scrape down from the dent drip over the second kill strip isnt there in the early pics
Right, that's what I mean. There are some obvious differences, but they're all "frontish" shots of the helmet.
There are good shots of the back, but not the promo kinds of photos that would show as many variances in the details.
Well the evtra paint damage probly came when they were removing the mold like we know thats how the cut marks got there so it makes sense some of the paint may have chipped of when they had to pry the mold from it
I can't wait to add the yellow crayon!
I am definitely adding the yellow crayon to my paint job! Not kidding, I've always loved that sloppy little yellow mark.
Its all part of the original so why not ,
Not to hijack your thread but this is how Ive aproched the back of the helmet
I the white parts are gel coat masked them off the I painted the dome silver were it needed it and light gray were it needed it , the masked the damage did the dark gray then over sprayed green and grey on the back then maske that of and did the green on the back over the damage
Next Ill remask the back damage to make the pattern match the PP2 more
Last edited by BGHunter; Jun 7, 2011 at 4:36 PM.
Man, that's a lot of work! Too much trouble I think. I'm just going to paint mine metallic purple and be done with it.
Double Dog Dare you
Holy Moly, that's really NICE!
Spidey just re-opened a can of worms!
Worms. . . delicious worms! C'mon, Alex, you can't expect a tease like that to go ignored.
I want a PM
Told you this would be a slow progress thread!
JUNE 11, 2011
OK, stage 1 of the rear panels is complete. I masked the whole back area off and sprayed a couple of contrasting grays. I began with a medium light tone, and covered it with a much darker gray. I deliberatly left it cloudy, because there are definitely a couple of shades visible under the dark green.
I tried to match the cloudy patterns in the keyslot area as best I could. It will begin to look much better once the chips and scratches are added.
Keep in mind, the flash is blowing out the contrast in all these pics, but there's not enough good natural light left to get better ones, at least till tomorrow at the earliest.
If I have time tomorrow, I'll begin placing/tracing the areas that will remain gray as I prepare for some dark greenage!
JUNE 12, 2011
Maskage! Got the damage areas stenciled, and then applied some Winsor & Netwon masking fluid. This is really great stuff. It might be a bit more expensive than some other masking products, but I've had the same bottle for around 4 years now and it still works just as well as the day I bought it.
The shiny, wet looking shapes below are the masked areas. Those will remain gray.
I gave the fluid about an hour to dry well, then sprayed on the base green for the back panels. I went with CNW Green. It's applied in a pretty haphazard manner, as all the colors on this helmet are kind of "muddy" and a bit translucent in places.
After the green had dried for a while, I went back with my reference pics and added some gray misting. I really need to find a good spot to photograph this helmet so I don't have to use the dang flash!! The contrast is way out of whack in these pics, but you can get a good idea of the areas that were misted.
This mess will dry for 5 or 6 hours, then I'll go back and remove the masking fluid. I like that part cuz it makes a big mess.
Not sure if I'll get much further this weekend, but the silver damage and small physical scrapes will come next.
I love it bro....beautiful work.