great work bro
great work bro
Thanks guys! Gettin' ramped up now.
UPDATE: May 25, 2013
Pretty good sized update for today. This contains a lot of work that was done over the last
couple of days. Once the Concrete was dry on the back panels, I began to stencil the
separation between the base color and the dark green. I use Winsor & Newton masking
fluid for this step. This is the only layered area on the helmet. Here are a couple of shots.
In these pics, the slightly darker shiny areas are the dried masking fluid. Winsor & Newton
is untinted, but I've never had a problem telling where it is, even with a coat of paint over it.
Once the W & N was dry, I masked off the remainder of the helmet. Once again, this is simply
for neatness. I try to contain my painted areas as much as possible. Good ol' blue painters tape
and some Glad cling wrap makes short work of masking larger areas.
I have never found an out-of-the-bottle color that I like for the back panels on the ESB.
This is one of the few custom colors that I mix. I start with a 1/2 oz. bottle of Testors
Model Master Acryl Euro I Dark Green, and to that I add approximately 65-75 drops of
Polly Scale BAR Blue. Yes, I count the drops. I find that this gives the Euro green
just enough of a kick over into the blue-green range to look really nice.
When I airbrush this custom green, I don't try to get 100% coverage. I begin with a medium
coat that's kind of cloudy. I leave it just a bit translucent. Then using some reference pics
of the helmet, I begin to darken certain areas. This is like "built in" weathering.
After letting it dry for several hours, I unmask. I use a rubber cement eraser to remove the
masking fluid. It does an amazing job. . . it's like magic!
I began the detail painting with the left panel. To start with, I go back with some Concrete and a fine
brush and touch up the edges of certain areas. I just study the reference pics and tweak the edges until
I think they look good.
I also take my custom blue-green and a small brush and add in those subtle, darker patches that are
scattered over the back panels. Since the base coat is airbrushed, applying the same color with a brush
gives a denser application, so it appears slightly darker.
I stencil the gray areas the same way that I stencil for the dark green. Then I add the gray, using
Polly Scale SP Lark Dark Gray with a 000 brush.
To finish off the panel, I use some Floquil Bright Silver with that same size brush. The physical
scratches have been added in the picture below. I use a compass point and scratch right thru
the paint to the gelcoat.
Whew!! I think that's enough for today.
Tomorrow I'll work on the right panel. There's a lot more happening on that panel, with that
enormous silver area, and I usually have to do it in several sittings. Otherwise my eyes catch on fire.
So pretty. It really is great watching your paint ups Eric, as because I tend to layer, watching the topical or "layer-optical" (to steal your own word), is a good change and shows just how to get fantastic results with different methods. Splendid work as always my good man! :-)
Thanks Jonny. I need to keep my layered skills sharp to do a ROTJ helmet (at some point.)
UPDATE: May 26, 2013
First stage of the right panel is complete. This is just the blocking in of the silver.
I actually did the small gray areas first, just to have some reference landmarks for when
I go back to do the detailing. The shape of the whole area will become more defined as
I begin to add the rest of the gray, as well as some additional dark green.
My arm fell asleep from doing this part!
Thanks! Welcome to TDH, Moscou.
UPDATE: May 27, 2013
Back panels done *whew*
Here are a couple of shots of the right panel. I've added the contrasting color on
the silver damage. In the pics below, you can see that it's very subtle depending
on the viewing angle.
Nearly invisible above. . .
. . . but rotate the helmet slightly, and it becomes visible.
There are several other small areas where this pale color will be applied. The dent will have
some of this color added, as well as the curve of the right mandible, and a couple other
spots here and there.
Next stage will be to mask off the back panels and lay down the base color for the dome
and lower cheeks! It will slowly start to look more like Boba over the next few days.
Hey Scott, hope you had a good time at PCC!
What color is this pale color you are using to make that contrast in the silver?
Scott, the "BatMando" turned out great! I remember going to the Phoenix Con with Farva and some 501st guys
in 2008, right before I left to go to Korea. I guess it's grown into a pretty big show since then.
Glad you had fun with your daughter!
of me right now) called Blue Wisp. It's a very very very pale blue gray.
Ah ok cool. Thanks.
Now that I see this I see why you like addition damage...and the control. Looking good bud!
UPDATE: May 28, 2013
Got the base green down on the dome and cheeks yesterday afternoon and let it dry
overnight. So now I can begin the dome damage. This will be several updates with
lots of silver and gray.
I don't know why, but I always begin my dome detailing at the back.
The silver and gray areas are pretty simple back here, but I get to add a lot of
physical scratches, which is fun!
I'll continue working around counterclockwise until the dome is done. Once I get all the damage
placed I'll have landmarks to begin the darkening/lightening of the base green. The colors won't
look so stark once I complete that part.
Stunning work my friend, just stunning!!!!
Very nice SJ
Thanks, guys. Scott, I just saw a little while ago that the metal Bordens
are starting to show up. Hopefully yours will get here soon!
UPDATE: May 29, 2013
Round and round we go. Got a bit more done on the dome today.
Next I'll move in front of the right ear and get that little "humped" area, then the cat scratch!
That's one of my favorite features on the ESB.
How do you not show brush strokes in the silver...any time I do a large area it shows strokes and such...
Well, I think a lot of credit goes to the paint. Floquil is excellent for leveling and not
showing brush strokes.
I make sure that my brush is well saturated with paint. Not so much that the paint
will "blob" when I touch it to the helmet, just so that I can get a nice smooth stroke.
I begin by painting a portion of the outline of an area, then when it seems that the
brush is almost dry, I go back and feather the outline into the area a bit.
Working quickly helps. I have found that if I overlap the areas slightly, and blend
them together while the paint is still wet, it really helps to eliminate brush strokes.
HRM....silvers mainly dont work for me with brushing larger areas....but yeh the floquils work pretty well
That's one of the things that impresses me about Superjedi's work. He can make a topical paintjob not actually look topical. If I tried something like that, at best it might result in something that looked worthy of being sold in a Walgreen's toy section...
Wolfsburg, thanks! It's not something that happened overnight. I've been doing this for
quite a while now, and it's a lot of trial and error-finding out what works well and what doesn't.
UPDATE: May 30, 2013
Not as big an update as I had planned. My throat is feeling a little gross today. Hope I'm not
coming down with something.
I got the cat scratch and surrounding areas stenciled on, and got the silver painted before I
decided that I'll pause here for the day. Hopefully tomorrow I'll feel better and get the gray
areas done. It looks a little weird right now, but these are the "in between" stages that are
associated with a topical paint job.
If everything goes according to plan (insert evil laugh here) I should get to the dent
sometime on Saturday.
UPDATE: June 1, 2013
Continuing to move around the dome, I've reached the dent. Arguably the most
recognizable feature of the helmet, there's a ton of juicy detail to apply.
As with the other sections done with a topical paint job, it begins with the main
silver area blocked in.
After working in the gray, along with the big streak coming back from the dent,
the nearly finished damage looks like this.
There will be some final detailing added at the end of the project. The area surrounding
the dent will receive some pastel weathering, a couple spots of slightly lightened green,
and some of that contrasting pale color within the silver.
Only a couple more damage sections to apply to the dome, then it'll be on to the cheeks!
UPDATE: June 2, 2013
I love weekends, I can really get a lot done.
OK, several steps for this update. After the dent and streak were done, I did the
smaller area under the streak, and the big area on top of the dome.
That completed all the major damage sections on the dome. There are a few minor details
left to do, but I need to get the killstripes on first in order to make sure they're positioned right.
It probably isn't obvious in the shots above, but I have also misted on some lightened green
on the dome and lower cheeks. The patterns are very diffuse, but it helps to break up the
one-dimensional look of the base green. It's sort of visible in the pics as a kind of blotchy look
to the finish, but once a clear coat is applied, the reflectivity will be evened out, and the
color difference should be slightly more apparent. It's a subtle effect overall, and it's more
readily visible to the eye.
After "blotching" the dome and cheeks, I did the upper cheeks with PRR Brunswick Green. This
was applied in 2 coats with a 1/2 inch flat brush. If I remember right, the upper cheeks were
brush painted on the original. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong.)
I did the detail painting on the right cheek first. Still using my Bright Silver, and 2 different
grays: my custom gray on the lower cheek, and SP Lark Dark Gray on the upper cheek.
In the shots above and below, I've also chipped out the physical damage using an X-acto blade.
Next up is the left cheek.
UPDATE #2: June 2, 2013
Whew! As the sun begins to sink slowly in the west. . . I'm done for the weekend.
I got the left inner cheek done. This part of the helmet contains the third and final
custom mixed color that I use. It's a blend of SP Lark and the dark green mixture
that I use on the back panels. It's just different enough from the "standard" custom
gray to be visually different.
It's weird that the gray damage on this part of the helmet is two different shades,
but it's one of those cool details that's fun to capture.
Tomorrow I'll do the upper left cheek, then the helmet will receive a quick spritz of
Testors Dull Coat to seal the paint work thus far. After that. . . killstripes.
Gettin' there, Scott!