Convincing. Raf, can you do a colour comparison on this pic? The greys I'm interested in are the light grey at the six o clock position to the dent, the darker grey immediately below this point and the grey of the brow trim... thanks...
Yea, that pic is the interesting one fellas, and the area I remember doing a good amount of dissection on when doing ESB. The '6 o'clock' area Garrett mentions, definitely appears to have two different greys - the little upside down 'c' type shape appears lighter, while the grey underneath it appears darker. The lighter shade by eye, appears to be similar to the grey on the red trim, though this could be thrown off with the greys playing off the other base colours. But I definitely went with two types of grey around the dent, and this could also be some sort of evidence, that two different shades of grey were indeed used around the helmet..
1. Superjedi. Awesome as always.
2. Raf. You are the man
Great discussion and pics! I've gotten to the point where I almost don't see an
entire helmet when I look at those pics. . . I just see little sections of damage.
But that third pic Raf posted in post #29 is very interesting. In that pic, whether it's
due to lighting or the angle, it seems that the lighter "upside down C" under the dent
matches the mandible gray, while the other gray is slightly darker. Hmm. . .
Yeah, it is interesting and another example of how ridiculous the detail is on this helmet! I tend to go a slightly darker grey on the dome and lower cheeks as opposed to the trim and the back panels, a similar concept to the two shades of red on the mandibles and trim I suppose...
I'd say it's ridiculous how closely we study these minute details! But the more that is
learned about the reference pics, the better the replicas become, and that's a good thing!
UPDATE: October 19, 2013
There will be a slight pause after this update because my company is sending me on travel
starting tomorrow. But I'll be back at it in a few days.
I've completed all the remaining red areas behind the ears. Still using my gray/silver/maroon
combo, and I'll continue on with this for the remainder of the mandible areas.
This area will wind up looking different once the thumbprints are applied. There will be some
white streaking coming back from the lower thumbprint, which will give it a slight washed appearance.
I've also made it around the ear platform and just started on the front portion. Here's the left
corner of the T-visor.
So that's it for the next few days. I should have internet access where I'm going, so I'll
be able to check in on all you crazy TDHers.
UPDATE: October 24, 2013
OK, back from my trip and back to work on the helmet.
I've continued onto the band above the visor cutout. This is the left half completed.
Same colors, and some very fine scratches added with my compass point. You can
see that I've laid down the base gray around on the right half as well. I'll detail this
portion next with silver and the maroon color.
UPDATE: October 26, 2013
Here are 2 pics to show the last couple days' progress.
First, the right side of the band above the visor cutout.
I did the left mandible after that. Lots of juicy detail here!
I'll begin laying out the damage on the right mandible next. That's the last "major" portion
that remains. There are some additional weathering stages to do, including the white
thumbprints, pastel application, the tan/rust spatter, and the grease stains on the back
of the dome.
I also have the ears and RF assembly to do. We're well over the hump and on the way
to a completed helmet!
UPDATE: October 30, 2013
Whew! Got lots done over the past 3 or 4 days. After about 7 sessions, I got the right
mandible done. This area always makes me cross-eyed. It's one of the most detail-intensive
parts of the helmet, and it takes constant checking of the reference pics to make sure the
shapes and proportions of the damage are as close as they can be.
This area, and the whole helmet, will receive a bit of the pale contrasting gray. So even
after all that effort, it's still not quite done! But there's much less of the pale gray on the
front of the helmet than on the back.
Also seen above is the brass Borden connector. The Borden received a thin wash of a light
green/gray mixture to give it a sort of patinated look, like "old" brass. The wash is applied
sparingly to allow the base metal show through. Then it was detailed with a bit of silver.
When I didn't have quite as much time to spend on the helmet itself, I worked on the left ear.
The white arch was masked and airbrushed on, with chips courtesy of Winsor & Newton
masking fluid. It was then detailed with light gray and red. The black markings were done
with dry transfer (rub-on) lettering. I used 2 capital E's and 2 tiny squares cut from other letters.
I use a bolt-on method of ear attachment, so they are removable. The ear is yet to receive its
final weathering with some tan/brown staining near the bottom.
So now all of the "major" painting on the helmet is complete! Final details and weathering to come.
Glad you like it, Mathias!
UPDATE: Halloween, 2013
Hello all you spooky ghoulish TDHers! As October comes to a close, I have begun
working on the helmet's weathering effects. I began with the odd patches of pale gray.
There has been a lot of debate on this color, and what it represents. Some believe that
it is the helmet's original gelcoat where the paint has been scraped or rubbed away. Or
it could be an additional layer/primer that was laid down before the real painting began.
Either way, it's a very cool feature of the ESB helmet. I use a very pale bluish-gray acrylic
craft paint to add this color. The color is called Blue Wisp by Ceramcoat.
Here are a couple of pics showing how this color "hides" depending on the light source and
the viewing angle. First, the back panels. This shot, in more direct light, barely shows
any hint of the contrasting color.
When the helmet is rotated so that the light falls at a more oblique angle, the color pops into view.
There are several other small areas where this color appears. The next most evident area is down
the outer edge of the right mandible. Here's an angle showing that the color blends with the silver.
But when the helmet is rotated away from the light, it becomes more apparent.
There are very fine traces of this color within the dent. Viewed in direct light, the color is
slightly evident, but not fully realized.
Change the angle, and those fine lines and scratches come into view.
So there you have the beginning of the weathering stages! In the picture above, you can
also see a portion of the "fade" below the killstripes.
I have also done the white thumbprints around the killstripes. . . but I forgot to take pics.
More to come!
Great explanations with images of the base gray's effect. According to the Boba Fett - Progress Report (from Oct. 3rd, 1978) the 6th helmet was painted grey and sent to U.S.A., so we might talk about the ESB Hero helmet.
As always, your paint thread(s) is(are) very informative and fun to watch. keep up the already great work, Eric!
Looks great! You certainly got the base grey spot on. I think it's possible the helmet colour is the yellowish hue we see under the right hand ear pieces, the base grey appears to be a layer on top of this...
Raf, interesting info about helmet #6.
Garrett, the yellowish hue. . . do you mean the gap between the upper and lower ear pieces?
I've always seen this as the same pale gray as is found scattered over the helmet.
Oh, OK. I watched that video only once. I'll check it out again and see if
I can spot what you're talking about.
Thanks, Raf! Yeah, I had watched the video again but had no way to do screen grabs.
To me, that yellowish color appears to be the base color of the gelcoat/resin.
UPDATE: November 5, 2013
Remember, remember. . .
I got the circuit board mounted in the keyslots. Had to use a flash to get the details,
so the colors are a little blown out.
I also got the base coat down on the RF ear parts yesterday, and today started the
detail painting with the lower half. The ear is just hanging by the bolts, so it's not quite
in the proper position.
I'll work on masking and painting the black arch on the upper piece next. Once all the
detail painting is complete, the RF ear parts will get some light pastel weathering, then
a flat coat. Once the flat coat is on, I'll mask and spray the metallic portions.
Forgive me if you have posted this in one of your other threads and I just missed it but how do you go about attaching the ears on these helmets? Clearly it is with some sort of screw but are you sinking nuts into the ears and then screwing the bolts into them from inside the helmet or sinking screws into the ears and have the bolts on the inside of the helmet or some other way?
No problem. Check this thread for a more detailed description of my ear attachment method.
It's in post #21.
I've been using this method for resin ears for several years now.
Sweet! Thanks for the info.
One quick question about it, do you fill in the hole you created to level it off or just coat the top of the screw head?