Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

  1. #26
    High Speed Low Drag Fett 4 Real's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jan 2010
    From
    USAF Utah
    Posts
    5,312

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    a good paint with proper dilution will lay down and self level

  2. #27
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Yes, all of the gray and silver (and later, maroon on the mandibles) is applied with a small
    detail brush. I take absolutely zero credit for the way the paint lays down. I use Floquil
    Bright Silver and like all the Floquil/Polly Scale paints it levels out tremendously well.

    The Flo/PS paints are very pigment-heavy compared to other hobby paints, and I think
    that's certainly a factor in the way they brush on. You don't need heavy/multiple coats
    to get great coverage.

  3. #28
    High Speed Low Drag Fett 4 Real's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jan 2010
    From
    USAF Utah
    Posts
    5,312

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Humbrols lay down about the same...

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  4. #29
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    I've only used Humbrols once before on another prop project. I shot a couple
    of the metallic shades onto a blaster. They airbrushed really smooth but I've
    never tried brushing them on.

  5. #30
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    UPDATE: April 16, 2014

    Moving around the dome now. Here's the area just behind the RF ear.
    You can see some of the grays I tested on the upper platform.



    Right after I post this update, I'll be crossing over to the front of the dome and
    beginning the cat scratch and the associated damage. This is one of my
    favorite areas to paint! So much fine detail crammed into a small section.

  6. #31
    High Speed Low Drag Fett 4 Real's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jan 2010
    From
    USAF Utah
    Posts
    5,312

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Just did that bit last night but worked from the front to back lol....

  7. #32
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Yeah, I saw. Looks great!

    UPDATE: April 17, 2014

    Couple of key features completed! There are 3 main damage areas in the catscratch section of
    the dome. The catscratch itself, the smaller humped area just in front of the RF ear arch, and the
    area above the catscratch. I generally try to do these parts together because they're sort of
    interrelated as far as their positions go. The "negative space" between them is important, just as
    the shapes are important.

    I'm really digging this gray blend. It becomes stronger or slightly fades depending on the lighting.
    Here are a couple of angles.





    Next up will be the smallish scrape above the turn signals, then I'll begin. . . the dent!

  8. #33
    High Speed Low Drag Fett 4 Real's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jan 2010
    From
    USAF Utah
    Posts
    5,312

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Its called negative space SJ...and totally agree...my old college professor for my 2d design harpped big time on the negative, I actually look at the negative more then the positive space because of that....

  9. #34
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    UPDATE: April 18, 2014

    Still working around the dome. Got the region above and around the turn signals done.



    Next is the dent.

  10. #35

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    You just make it look to easy lol

  11. #36
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    "Easy? You call that easy?!" Sorry, couldn't resist the Han quote.

    UPDATE: April 19, 2014

    Got the dent area done! Still working with my gray and silver.
    This is hard to photograph because of the reflections, so I took shots from
    a couple of different angles.



    The contrasting pale gray and the "blast damage" are yet to be added. I do those
    steps toward the end of the project, just before the final protective clear coat.



    Next will be the big crazy scrape across the top of the dome. After that
    it will be killstripe time. There are a couple more silver/gray areas to do, but
    their positions are dependent on the stripes, so I do those after the stripes
    are airbrushed on.

  12. #37
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    UPDATE: April 20, 2014

    Got the big scrape done. This is another area that I do over several sessions.
    There's lots of intricate shapes and it's a fairly sizable section.



    I should have time later to mask and airbrush the killstripes.

  13. #38
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    UPDATE #2: April 20, 2014

    Killstripe time! Have a nice relaxing afternoon so I thought I'd show my entire killstripe process.
    Lots of pics to follow.

    I begin by measuring out where the stripes will go. I use several reference pics to do this. It's
    best to have reference pics that are as oblique as possible. In other words, pics where the camera
    is at 90 degrees from the area you want to measure.
    The first measurement I determine is how much space there is between the red band and the bottom
    of the killstripes. The best measurement I could get was 7 mm. (I always do my measurements in
    metric. I can get a greater degree of accuracy that way.) I cut a strip of blue painters tape that is
    7 mm wide and apply it to the helmet. I keep it flush with the upper limit of the "hat band" ridge.



    Next, I use reference pics to determine the position of the stripe above the left ear. In this pic of
    my laptop, I have drawn a thin line that goes right up the center of the ear piece. It shows that the
    stripe above the ear has its front edge slightly forward of the ear centerline.



    I mark the center of the ear platform on the helmet and extend that line upward onto the
    blue tape. This will help determine the placement of that stripe.



    The measurements I have come up with for the stripes themselves are: 8 mm wide, 25 mm tall,
    with a 6 mm space between each stripe. Tamiya makes a 6 mm masking tape, which is perfect
    for taping off the spaces between the stripes.
    I use the line I made previously and apply the first piece of Tamiya tape. In the following pic, you
    can see that I've positioned it slightly forward of the pencil line. This makes the front edge of
    that stripe slightly forward of the ear centerline, just as I explained above.



    I then measure and mark lines 8 mm on either side of the Tamiya tape. Then I continue to
    apply strips of Tamiya tape vertically, marking out the killstripes. I generally write a small number
    below each stripe so I don't get lost when I mask off the chips!



    I continue this process until all 17 killstripes are masked off. Ahaaa!! Caught you napping. . .
    there are 14 stripes of course.



    I then mark off 25 mm vertically from the bottom of the stripes (top edge of the blue tape).



    I use another piece of blue tape to mark the upper limit of each stripe. I cut the tape thin
    to conform better to the curve of the helmet.



    Continued in next post!

  14. #39
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    UPDATE #2: April 20, 2014 (Continued)

    Now that the killstripes are marked off, it's time to mask off the chips. I like to use
    Winsor & Netwon masking fluid. Just personal preference, there are lots of great masking
    products out there. I also use the "Superfine" size Microbrushes to apply the fluid.



    Here's a Microbrush compared with a standard cotton swab.



    I use several reference pics when I apply the masking fluid. I go slow, and I'm constantly
    counting the stripes as I go so I don't get lost in the middle!
    Here are the stripes with the chips all masked off. The shiny bits are the dried Winsor & Newton.



    I've done quite a bit of work to the helmet by this point, and I don't want to take any chances
    with any sloppy accidents, so I mask the entire helmet with some plastic wrap.



    Now it's airbrushing time! (Pssshhhhhh. . . psshhhh. . . psssshhhh!) That was my airbrush
    sound effect. I shoot a couple of light/medium coats of UP Armor Yellow, then give the
    airbrush a quick rinse and immediately apply some orangey-red to the rear of the run of stripes.
    It's a subtle color shift from about the middle of the run to the rear.



    After I finish cleaning my airbrush, I go ahead and remove the plastic wrap. I leave the tape on
    for a few hours while the paint cures fully. I use acrylics, so it really doesn't take a tremendously
    long time. I also leave the tape on because I don't want to disturb the masking fluid while the
    paint is curing. That can lead to headaches when trying to remove the fluid.



    So that's where the helmet sits! I'll post a final pic of the stripes once everything is dry
    and I've had a chance to remove the masking fluid. Stay tuned!

  15. #40
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    UPDATE #3: April 20, 2014

    Results! Got the stripes unmasked and removed the masking fluid using my rubber cement
    pickup. This is a very handy tool for removing dried latex-based mask.





    Next I'll complete the damage on the dome by going back and adding the sections in between
    and above the killstripes. Then it will be on to the inner cheeks.

  16. #41

    Member Since
    Aug 2011
    From
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    444

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Nice SJ your detail is perfect ! Just amazing.

  17. #42

    Member Since
    May 2005
    From
    AZ
    Posts
    119

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Wow, After a long absence from this forum I come back and see people still doing absolutely amazing work!

  18. #43
    RafalFett's Avatar
    Member Since
    Oct 2010
    From
    Galati, Romania
    Posts
    2,635

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    The master at work! Love these Superjedi paint-up threads! Everything is well described and backed up with great images and color list. I already suggested this, and I will repeat myself: why don't you do a new thread regarding Killstripes, The Making of, as there are always people asking about it.

  19. #44
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Thanks, guys! Having fun with this one.

    RafalFett said: View Post
    . . .I already suggested this, and I will repeat myself: why don't you do a new thread regarding Killstripes, The Making of, as there are always people asking about it.
    You think that would be worth its own thread? I could put something together very similar to the last posts in
    this thread and put it in the Prop Building Workshop forum I suppose. I'll see about that when I have another lazy day.

    UPDATE: April 23, 2014

    The dome is complete!

    I finished the areas between and above the killstripes. The positions of these little areas is
    very dependent on the stripes. That's why I wait until I've gotten the stripes airbrushed on.
    Here are a couple of different angles. With the curvature of the helmet it's difficult to get a
    single shot that captures everything.



    In the exhibit photos, this area of the helmet has taken a beating over the years! But by carefully viewing
    ESB screencaps, you can make a determination as to what damage was present during filming, and what
    came later from years of storage and manhandling.

    A view from a slightly higher angle.



    If you noticed, I've drilled the holes in the ear platforms to accept the bolts that are
    already epoxied into the ear pieces. The next stage will involve measuring and cutting
    the physical damage into the left cheek and the mandibles. After that I'll paint the
    outer cheeks, then begin working the detail on the inner cheeks. Once the cheeks are
    painted, the "Boba look" will really start to come together.

  20. #45
    Jayvee's Avatar
    Member Since
    Sep 2010
    From
    Perth, Western Australia
    Posts
    643

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Boom! Then you can slap some lipstick on that bitch!!!..

    Looking freakin amazing as always my good man

  21. #46
    Major's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2008
    From
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    462

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    Amazing work....

  22. #47
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    LOL, Jonny.
    Thanks, guys!

    UPDATE: April 25, 2014

    Just a quick one tonight. Got the physical damage marked and carved out, and painted
    the outer cheeks. I do these with a 1/2 inch flat brush. Couple coats of PRR Brunswick
    Green and it's good to go!



    Now that the outer cheeks are done, I'll work on all the cheek damage this weekend.
    Almost time to get some red on this puppy!

  23. #48
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    UPDATE: April 26, 2014

    Right cheek is done. I'm starting to see the world in gray and silver now. . .



    Closer shot.



    The damage in the outermost corner of the upper cheek is more closely associated with
    the mandible damage, so I won't paint it until I reach that stage.

    I'll start the left cheek after lunch today. I'm hoping to have enough time to finish
    it up by this evening. If so, I should be able to lay down the red basecoat on the
    mandibles/band/keyslot area tomorrow.

  24. #49
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    UPDATE #2: April 26, 2014

    Left cheek complete! Took a bit longer since there's more damage on
    this side than the other.



    This is one of the sections where I use another custom mixed color. The damage
    on the inner cheek uses the same gray/silver that appears everywhere else, except
    for the little strip down the outer edge. Here it's a slightly greener gray. Like I've
    mentioned in my other progress threads, I can't find anywhere else on the helmet
    where this color is used, and I've looked at enough reference pics to show that it is
    in fact a slightly different shade.

    To get this tone, I take my dome/cheek gray and mix in some of the darker blue green
    color from the rear panels. I add a few drops of the blue green at a time until it becomes
    noticeably different in appearance.



    It's pretty subtle, but it's just one of those fascinating little details of the ESB bucket!
    Next up, masking off and airbrushing the base red for the mandibles.

  25. #50
    superjedi's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
    From
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    4,304

    Re: Superjedi's FP Premium ESB for Nighthawk5296

    UPDATE: April 27, 2014

    Red! Finally, another color besides gray and silver!
    Got the red airbrushed on late yesterday, and today I began the damage
    by doing the keyslot area. . . so it's back to gray and silver after all.
    Except now I can add the maroon! Yay!



    This area will also get some of the pale contrasting gray once the rest of the
    paint job is complete. Here's a closer look.



    Next I'll begin working on the band above the keyslots.

Similar Threads

  1. Superjedi's GMH as ESB for Terrantula
    By superjedi in forum Boba Fett Helmet
    Replies: 120
    Last Post: Jul 17, 2013, 7:30 PM
  2. Superjedi's GMH as ESB for Lucksy31
    By superjedi in forum Boba Fett Helmet
    Replies: 132
    Last Post: Jul 10, 2013, 7:25 AM
  3. WiP: MMGRAPHICS PAINTJOB FP PREMIUM ESB STYLE FOR CAPTAIN SOLO
    By mmgraphics in forum Boba Fett Helmet
    Replies: 46
    Last Post: Feb 22, 2012, 10:33 AM
  4. WiP: FP PREMIUM PAINTJOB FOR COLLECTOR
    By mmgraphics in forum Boba Fett Helmet
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: Jun 28, 2010, 2:35 PM
  5. WiP: FP Premium ESB Paint Up for Shabazz Jenkins by Deadland
    By deadland in forum Boba Fett Helmet
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: Apr 18, 2010, 6:33 PM
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •