a good paint with proper dilution will lay down and self level
a good paint with proper dilution will lay down and self level
Yes, all of the gray and silver (and later, maroon on the mandibles) is applied with a small
detail brush. I take absolutely zero credit for the way the paint lays down. I use Floquil
Bright Silver and like all the Floquil/Polly Scale paints it levels out tremendously well.
The Flo/PS paints are very pigment-heavy compared to other hobby paints, and I think
that's certainly a factor in the way they brush on. You don't need heavy/multiple coats
to get great coverage.
Humbrols lay down about the same...
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
I've only used Humbrols once before on another prop project. I shot a couple
of the metallic shades onto a blaster. They airbrushed really smooth but I've
never tried brushing them on.
UPDATE: April 16, 2014
Moving around the dome now. Here's the area just behind the RF ear.
You can see some of the grays I tested on the upper platform.
Right after I post this update, I'll be crossing over to the front of the dome and
beginning the cat scratch and the associated damage. This is one of my
favorite areas to paint! So much fine detail crammed into a small section.
Just did that bit last night but worked from the front to back lol....
Yeah, I saw. Looks great!
UPDATE: April 17, 2014
Couple of key features completed! There are 3 main damage areas in the catscratch section of
the dome. The catscratch itself, the smaller humped area just in front of the RF ear arch, and the
area above the catscratch. I generally try to do these parts together because they're sort of
interrelated as far as their positions go. The "negative space" between them is important, just as
the shapes are important.
I'm really digging this gray blend. It becomes stronger or slightly fades depending on the lighting.
Here are a couple of angles.
Next up will be the smallish scrape above the turn signals, then I'll begin. . . the dent!
Its called negative space SJ...and totally agree...my old college professor for my 2d design harpped big time on the negative, I actually look at the negative more then the positive space because of that....
You just make it look to easy lol
"Easy? You call that easy?!" Sorry, couldn't resist the Han quote.
UPDATE: April 19, 2014
Got the dent area done! Still working with my gray and silver.
This is hard to photograph because of the reflections, so I took shots from
a couple of different angles.
The contrasting pale gray and the "blast damage" are yet to be added. I do those
steps toward the end of the project, just before the final protective clear coat.
Next will be the big crazy scrape across the top of the dome. After that
it will be killstripe time. There are a couple more silver/gray areas to do, but
their positions are dependent on the stripes, so I do those after the stripes
are airbrushed on.
UPDATE #2: April 20, 2014
Killstripe time! Have a nice relaxing afternoon so I thought I'd show my entire killstripe process.
Lots of pics to follow.
I begin by measuring out where the stripes will go. I use several reference pics to do this. It's
best to have reference pics that are as oblique as possible. In other words, pics where the camera
is at 90 degrees from the area you want to measure.
The first measurement I determine is how much space there is between the red band and the bottom
of the killstripes. The best measurement I could get was 7 mm. (I always do my measurements in
metric. I can get a greater degree of accuracy that way.) I cut a strip of blue painters tape that is
7 mm wide and apply it to the helmet. I keep it flush with the upper limit of the "hat band" ridge.
Next, I use reference pics to determine the position of the stripe above the left ear. In this pic of
my laptop, I have drawn a thin line that goes right up the center of the ear piece. It shows that the
stripe above the ear has its front edge slightly forward of the ear centerline.
I mark the center of the ear platform on the helmet and extend that line upward onto the
blue tape. This will help determine the placement of that stripe.
The measurements I have come up with for the stripes themselves are: 8 mm wide, 25 mm tall,
with a 6 mm space between each stripe. Tamiya makes a 6 mm masking tape, which is perfect
for taping off the spaces between the stripes.
I use the line I made previously and apply the first piece of Tamiya tape. In the following pic, you
can see that I've positioned it slightly forward of the pencil line. This makes the front edge of
that stripe slightly forward of the ear centerline, just as I explained above.
I then measure and mark lines 8 mm on either side of the Tamiya tape. Then I continue to
apply strips of Tamiya tape vertically, marking out the killstripes. I generally write a small number
below each stripe so I don't get lost when I mask off the chips!
I continue this process until all 17 killstripes are masked off. Ahaaa!! Caught you napping. . .
there are 14 stripes of course.
I then mark off 25 mm vertically from the bottom of the stripes (top edge of the blue tape).
I use another piece of blue tape to mark the upper limit of each stripe. I cut the tape thin
to conform better to the curve of the helmet.
Continued in next post!
UPDATE #2: April 20, 2014 (Continued)
Now that the killstripes are marked off, it's time to mask off the chips. I like to use
Winsor & Netwon masking fluid. Just personal preference, there are lots of great masking
products out there. I also use the "Superfine" size Microbrushes to apply the fluid.
Here's a Microbrush compared with a standard cotton swab.
I use several reference pics when I apply the masking fluid. I go slow, and I'm constantly
counting the stripes as I go so I don't get lost in the middle!
Here are the stripes with the chips all masked off. The shiny bits are the dried Winsor & Newton.
I've done quite a bit of work to the helmet by this point, and I don't want to take any chances
with any sloppy accidents, so I mask the entire helmet with some plastic wrap.
Now it's airbrushing time! (Pssshhhhhh. . . psshhhh. . . psssshhhh!) That was my airbrush
sound effect. I shoot a couple of light/medium coats of UP Armor Yellow, then give the
airbrush a quick rinse and immediately apply some orangey-red to the rear of the run of stripes.
It's a subtle color shift from about the middle of the run to the rear.
After I finish cleaning my airbrush, I go ahead and remove the plastic wrap. I leave the tape on
for a few hours while the paint cures fully. I use acrylics, so it really doesn't take a tremendously
long time. I also leave the tape on because I don't want to disturb the masking fluid while the
paint is curing. That can lead to headaches when trying to remove the fluid.
So that's where the helmet sits! I'll post a final pic of the stripes once everything is dry
and I've had a chance to remove the masking fluid. Stay tuned!
UPDATE #3: April 20, 2014
Results! Got the stripes unmasked and removed the masking fluid using my rubber cement
pickup. This is a very handy tool for removing dried latex-based mask.
Next I'll complete the damage on the dome by going back and adding the sections in between
and above the killstripes. Then it will be on to the inner cheeks.
Nice SJ your detail is perfect ! Just amazing.
Wow, After a long absence from this forum I come back and see people still doing absolutely amazing work!
The master at work! Love these Superjedi paint-up threads! Everything is well described and backed up with great images and color list. I already suggested this, and I will repeat myself: why don't you do a new thread regarding Killstripes, The Making of, as there are always people asking about it.
Thanks, guys! Having fun with this one.
this thread and put it in the Prop Building Workshop forum I suppose. I'll see about that when I have another lazy day.
UPDATE: April 23, 2014
The dome is complete!
I finished the areas between and above the killstripes. The positions of these little areas is
very dependent on the stripes. That's why I wait until I've gotten the stripes airbrushed on.
Here are a couple of different angles. With the curvature of the helmet it's difficult to get a
single shot that captures everything.
In the exhibit photos, this area of the helmet has taken a beating over the years! But by carefully viewing
ESB screencaps, you can make a determination as to what damage was present during filming, and what
came later from years of storage and manhandling.
A view from a slightly higher angle.
If you noticed, I've drilled the holes in the ear platforms to accept the bolts that are
already epoxied into the ear pieces. The next stage will involve measuring and cutting
the physical damage into the left cheek and the mandibles. After that I'll paint the
outer cheeks, then begin working the detail on the inner cheeks. Once the cheeks are
painted, the "Boba look" will really start to come together.
Boom! Then you can slap some lipstick on that bitch!!!..
Looking freakin amazing as always my good man
UPDATE: April 25, 2014
Just a quick one tonight. Got the physical damage marked and carved out, and painted
the outer cheeks. I do these with a 1/2 inch flat brush. Couple coats of PRR Brunswick
Green and it's good to go!
Now that the outer cheeks are done, I'll work on all the cheek damage this weekend.
Almost time to get some red on this puppy!
UPDATE: April 26, 2014
Right cheek is done. I'm starting to see the world in gray and silver now. . .
The damage in the outermost corner of the upper cheek is more closely associated with
the mandible damage, so I won't paint it until I reach that stage.
I'll start the left cheek after lunch today. I'm hoping to have enough time to finish
it up by this evening. If so, I should be able to lay down the red basecoat on the
mandibles/band/keyslot area tomorrow.
UPDATE #2: April 26, 2014
Left cheek complete! Took a bit longer since there's more damage on
this side than the other.
This is one of the sections where I use another custom mixed color. The damage
on the inner cheek uses the same gray/silver that appears everywhere else, except
for the little strip down the outer edge. Here it's a slightly greener gray. Like I've
mentioned in my other progress threads, I can't find anywhere else on the helmet
where this color is used, and I've looked at enough reference pics to show that it is
in fact a slightly different shade.
To get this tone, I take my dome/cheek gray and mix in some of the darker blue green
color from the rear panels. I add a few drops of the blue green at a time until it becomes
noticeably different in appearance.
It's pretty subtle, but it's just one of those fascinating little details of the ESB bucket!
Next up, masking off and airbrushing the base red for the mandibles.
UPDATE: April 27, 2014
Red! Finally, another color besides gray and silver!
Got the red airbrushed on late yesterday, and today I began the damage
by doing the keyslot area. . . so it's back to gray and silver after all.
Except now I can add the maroon! Yay!
This area will also get some of the pale contrasting gray once the rest of the
paint job is complete. Here's a closer look.
Next I'll begin working on the band above the keyslots.