SR V3 Helmet Interiors for FP and other MR based helmets. Progress

Is it weird that my BM lid talked to me and told me what he wants for Christmas was one of these??? Just asking...

Sounds good to me, man. Luckily for you, I do have a good lighting system!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stormrider

Im thinking about making a helmet stand that either sets it at an angle where the visor points almost straight up, so you can see in, or at a 45, with a mirror under it. Im looking for mirrors now.

EDIT:

Ok, so what about a helmet stand that was say, a fett gauntlet and hand. Or maybe han in carbonite hand. If no, what about a helmet stand, that held the helmet up, and had a mirror placed at 45 degrees under it, to reflect the inside. Who would be interested in a custom helmet stand?

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I'm working on an interior for a TIE bucket and I'm going to do the angled mirror. Would look alot better than tilting the bucket plus add a bit of class. Personally I'd stay away from making the stand too fancy. It would be cool to have a gauntlet but in the end you want to showcase the helmet not the stand.

Very good point Tommy. Thanks.

Boomer: Lucky for you, I already owe you one:)

Gym: PM replied.

Quick update, this is what im planning. Its a try ane err adventure, because it needs to fit.

This goes under the cheek pieces, but stays on top up top. This completes the liner. The only thing left is the parts along the ears between cheeks and rear pieces. I didnt fill it perfectly becaue all helmets are different sizes. So ill need to make fillers.

Its raw, but I usually start like this to give myself an idea of what angles I want to do.
http://www.ampgaming.com/downloads/pics/visor.jpg

How did I miss that you had new interiors in the works for so long. You can go ahead and put me down as intrested, I can't let the previous versions be with out the new addition to the family. Great work as always though Stormrider. Oh and I got a camera... but I don't think I'd pass the un-biased part. The review would probably just turn out to be "Why haven't you bought one yet and no you can't have mine :b"

Have a good one,
:skull Hagen

Please count me in for one of these sets.

Progress is looking as nice as ever. As someone extremely pleased with his HIC cast from you, I'm greatly looking forward to these.

Any more updates on this?

Would love to have one as well, count me in.

So are we thinking the GMH will be able to use this as well? Chris was saying its a little smaller

I made the rear to be a little shorter (smallr) so it comes to about half an inch on each ear piece. Just for smaller helmets.

I can maybe send a spare to chris ask him to see how close it fits.

I sent one set out to boomer, and have another about ready to go out (pre-pros) to get some feedback.

Awesome!

stormrider since I'm hoping to have a GMH can you add me to the list for when you start shipping these. I can send the $150 whenever things are ready... I also have a rather larger grape so I'm hoping everything fits pretty well... I wear a size 7 3/4 cap...

With the GMH being smaller, and a big head, will be tight. However, im hoping to show the mounting system I came up with soon, which will allow people to remove these very easily while wearing:)

Boomer has the first set, im hoping he posts soon of his impressions.

Gymb... I have everything ready to ship excep ta front padding. Im out of foam, when it gets here and I pull the front, it will be out the door.
m2

This looks really great Mike!

I'll work with it... Thanks...

Definately interested in this... just need to decide on a bucket...

Demo kit shipped to Gymbeau2000. One already in Boomers hands. On their approval, these will start going out next week.

Im kinda excited....now to convince the wife to let me buy it...

It appears Gymbeau has received his pre-pro kit. So we should be able to get some feedback soon.

Lets all hope its not 'these suxxors'.

Got the kit as mentioned and can I just say, "WOW!" I have been taking lots of pictures of my own, trial fits in various helmets and paint tests. I should have a nice thoughrouh post on Friday. I live in Washington state, so it's not "painting season", so I am taking my time doing stuff indoors.

I can say that this material is very light and soft, with the appearance of being firm. So far looks very sturdy. Excess material on the edges from molding is very thin and basically peels off for the most part. The padding spots (raised rectangles) are very soft and look like they will be good for actual wear for trooping. After I submit my report on Friday, I am going to troop it on Saturday in my Fett and give a usefulness report that night.

The only improvement I would ask so far is perhaps a thicker dome part. It's thin, but not to the point of being flimsy. Maybe I am just use to my MICH pad in the top of my bucket. This is just a first impression of it though, so I will hold off full judgment until Saturday's troop.

OK I hate to throw anything too extreme into the mix here that may hold up production on either the GMH helmet (which I don't think this would) or the Stormrider liner (which this idea might possibly)....but today I had this wild idea concerning the MQ-1 circuit board. It seems to me that with the GMH helmet having a cutout for the microswitch, that more people will choose to go that route instead of the mercury switch. So here is my idea...
What is the possibility of someone creating a circuit board that looked a dead ringer for the MQ-1, but on the inside (meaning the side facing the interior of the helmet here) it was a functional circuit board that would control the RF LEDs. Then, once the Stormrider interior was installed, it had a spot for a battery in it, and channels behind it for the wires to run to the microswitch. In doing this, you would only have to run the wires from the switch up to the RF LEDs. The functional side of the circuit board would be concealed by the liner, as would the wires. The non-functional side of the board would be able to be painted without affecting the functionality. The pressure switch would be used, which is more accurate. The battery would be easily replaceable (possibly run near one of the head pads in the liner, and using two 1.5V watch batteries in order to keep it small. The Rubie's helmet LEDs run off of this). Then, we get the best of all sides - the GMH being the closest thing to an ILM helmet, the Stormrider interior looking absolutely amazing, and the pressure switch being used.
So here is the one problem that I know everyone will probably ask me - why don't I create it? The answer is I know enough about circuitry to know that this could work, but not how to make it work or build the parts. Anyone willing to give it a go is more than welcome to take this idea and run with it. I'm just throwing it out there as a brainstorm.

Don't wanna derail too much here, but Stormrider, are you still doin rubber ESB Webleys?

Gilmore: I have done a rubber one or two, and im thinking about doing a full ROTJ and ESB rubber webley, if I can find people interested. The problem with rubber is it has to come out perfect because theres no filling it.

Steven: I have done rubber Mq1's but ill not likely be doing a real board, or changing the interiors much. They are ahowever foam, so they can be 'cored' or 'carved out' to have things inside them.

Gym: The idea with the helmet is that the biggest variation on peoples heads is the height from eyes, to top of skull. Including but not limited to amount of hair. What I personally do is put a small piece of foam that is a certain thickness that sits basically on top my head. Thats what i use for padding on the very top.

I dont personally glue the top in. it can be just put in for display. When I get the gasket for front in, the seam should be fully hidden.

More later! And thanks for all the interest.

M2

well, if you happen to do a rubber ESB, minus the MPP Flash barrel, I'd be down for one. Cuz I have the MPP flash read and waiting.

Just found this and... wow! Very interested in a set. Great job vod'!

Sorry it's late, but here is part 1 of the report. So I got home and found this box only a few days after being told it was shipped. I opened it up really not knowing why it was since it was bout shoebox size, if that.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8052428_n.jpg

The first thing I noticed was the extra "flash" on all the pieces. Since it was rubber, I knew I could not Dremel it and was worried about how to trim it. Luckily, all you really have to do is peel it off, since the flash is very thin.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1320010_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6604872_n.jpg

The rubber is very spongy for lack of a better word on the raised pad areas. Everywhere else, it feels solid. On the back panel detailing, you can see the intracate details and if you followed past versions, you can see the old side pieces he use to make. This piece is large and should have no problem fitting any 1:1 scale bucket. In the next part of the report, you will see how it fits in a couple of different helmets.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4443084_n.jpg

The cheek interiors have soft edges, which allow you to fit perfectly to your bucket. They are combined, but cut even with scissors.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5064787_n.jpg

The dome likewise has less defined edges, which helps you better fit it to your bucket the way you want. I was concerned with the thickness of this and it not being thick enough, but had it been alot more thick, it would not fit right. Despite being crammed in the box, this thing had no wear on it. I was worried it would be ripped or creased in shipping, but this stuff is very durable.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6995178_n.jpg

The outside of the dome is very lumpy. I guess it really depends on how you plan to adhere it to the inside of you bucket as to if this will interfere with your mounting method. It's not overly lumpy, but it may force you to investigate alternate methods.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2137137_n.jpg

This is a good side view of the thickness of the back panel. As you can see from the ribbed edge of the circles, the detail is very fine.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6145126_n.jpg

The raised "pads" of the interiors are all the same uniform height. Here is a standard 9V battery for a size comparison. Like I said, they squish in some. In the next part of the report, you'll see how much.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5529432_n.jpg

Part two to follow tomorrow.

Also, these are slightly resized pictures. If you need super high rez, I have them on flickr as well.

Flickr

Good start:) Thanks.

Couple quick hitters.

The dome doesnt get glued down per-se. It sort of floats, adn should be tacked at most at the edges. Perhaps even thin velcro. Its not so much functional as it covers up the 'fiberglass' texture.

This is a pre-pro kit. The forehead piece isnt the final finish. Its too shiny, but when I get the last piece finished, that will have the same matte finish as the rest of the pieces.

I would like to start a committment thread. In the past, I have done committment threads, but its difficult to know who is actually committed.

Its possible ill take a $20 interest payment if I start get get a lot of committments that fall through; this is one of those projects that the extra material is of no use to me.

Gymb... what size head to you have?

This fits perfectly for me, and I have a standard head. But im thinking about making a thinner piece with less rear padding for bigger heads.

Thanks again.
m2

Have you figured out a final price yet, or are you still floating around the $150 price range? Either way let me know your PP again so I can put myself on the list :b.
Have a good one,
:skull Hagen

Im goin gto keep it at or below 150. I can guarantee it wont go over that shipped in the US.

I would like to get it down, but at this point i have 2 - 3 more molds to make, and am ordering raws.

Im going to order some raws today actually. I want to get this show on the road.

Oh while I'm at it, I got one more question M. The brow/ridgeline boxes here:
http://www.ampgaming.com/downloads/pics/visor.jpg
Are they going to be as thick as the boxes in this pic:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5529432_n.jpg
I found that with your version 2's that browline insert was a little thick and the helmet didn't sit well when worn with the back and front inserts in. So is the new browline thats connected to the T-visor insert going to be the same size as the old inserts (guess I could of asked that to start out with huh:b)

Have a good one,
:skull Hagen

Yes they are the same thickness. However I made the rear box, that covers the mq1 much thinner. It no longer touches your head at all. Only the 3 points should touch the head now. Rear left right and front.

I think the front needs to be this thick. to give you room for your nose. It would be the backs that would need to be thinner. Thats why i may make anotehr version for larger nogins, but it wont be soon. I also created this to be able to be easily removed. Ill explain soon.

I cant really wait any longer for proper pics and or paintups/writeups, so im going to just do my own.

I have foam and rubber being shipped as I type. I will work on a helmet interior this weekend and they should be able tos tart going out. Im sure half the people that are interested will bail, so I cant know the price for sure, but ill keep it under 150. But if I dont get many orders, and it ends up costing me more time/hassle than its worth, this will be the only run.

I will rub and buff a set tonight, and post some pics.

m2

So Sorry for the delays! Life happens sometimes. I will be posting up a new review thread of M2's work tomorrow. Sorry again mate!

NO EXCUSES!

I'm in for a set!

Brad

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sentry02

I'm in for a set!

Brad

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Same. I'm still on!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stormrider

Yes they are the same thickness. However I made the rear box, that covers the mq1 much thinner. It no longer touches your head at all. Only the 3 points should touch the head now. Rear left right and front.

I think the front needs to be this thick. to give you room for your nose. It would be the backs that would need to be thinner. Thats why i may make anotehr version for larger nogins, but it wont be soon. I also created this to be able to be easily removed. Ill explain soon.

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Glade to hear the back pieces will be thinner this time. As nice as the older back pieces looked, I always had a problem fitting the back pieces for comfort. So I ended up just cutting them up so the helmet would sit correctly.

When do you expect to start taking deposits or payment for the sets (aka when will I have to cut out unnecessaries like eating for a pay period:b)?
Oh and when are we going to get a look at the T-visor seal piece?
Have a good one,
:skullHagen

Just let me know when the run starts and I'll send in a deposit. It's not everyday a fett helmet interior comes up.

The Rest of the Story...

So I properly trimmed up the interiors according to the seam lines using just sewing scissors. I placed them inside my SgtFang bucket (which is suppose to be 1:1). I stripped out my fans and other goodies so this is a nice naked bucket. The front cheeks fit on nicely with a little give to allow alignment. Luckily, the padded parts are a nerf-like rubbery material which allows it flex to conform to the shape of your helmet.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5839027_n.jpg

The same goes for the back panel. I have noticed that you must be careful with storing this as your working on it. I folded it in half loosely back in the box as I was working on it. It developed a small tear of separation where one of the raised detail boxes meets the main panel body. It only did this, though, because I folded it inside out. Once I placed it in the helmet, you could not see the tear any more. The back panel is made of the nerf-like material too, so it is nice and soft. The fitting of this panel was a tad bit wide for the SgtFang and was not forming to the shape of the bucket due to the keyslots. Had the slots been more flush (which you could only do by removing the slot panel all together and replacing it), then the edges of the panel would not extend over the tips of the T-Visor.com visor. It is a very minor issue though and could likely be fixed with minor trimming. I chose not to mod these interior so you can get the full out of the box experience.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7671137_n.jpg

The dome fits perfectly into the SgtFang with only a small amout of overlap on the back panel, which is a good thing in providing total coverage. The only shame in this is two of the outlying greebes on the dome are hidden slightly. The front pad does not fit as smoothly, but this was mostly due to me not permanently mounting this interior.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1736348_n.jpg

To do a temporary mounting, I tried to use Gorilla Tape to just let me see how it worked. That tape which works on basically anything would not even hold it's own weight. This is due to the releasing grease on the interiors. I HIGHLY suggest those of you who purchase this wash it good. I used warm water and dish soap. Once it air dried, I had not problems with the interiors. Just make sure you let it air dry (do not rush it with heat), since the material is spongy.

I then did a test fit and that is where my experience with this interior leaves me personally very sad. I had the dome & back panel on only and tried to put the helmet on. I could only get it halfway on. The greeb box in the middle covering the keyslots inside area prevented me from wearing this bad boy. I imagine it would be very comfortable, as the dome was thin, but despite my initial worries over lack of padding, it's pretty comfortable. The front padding is likewise very comfortable and giving.
I do not want to discourage people from buying this. I do have a larger head. I wear a 7 5/8 hat size (which is pretty big) and admittedly, my SgtFang is almost too snug. I imagine that it you can comfortably wear a Jango two piece or have room in your 1:1 that you would be good.

I also own a M-DSB Assassin (a custom style helmet maker from Merc land). My version is XL, so it has plenty of room. However, the dome does not line up properly at all due to the helmet's unique shape. The backpanel and front padding do fit, though. So those of you with other helmets not trying for a 1:1 Fett could still use this fine interior.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5984348_n.jpg

The last step for me in this process was to try out rub and buff on the panel. It obviously worked extremely well. I did not try painting as weather has not been permitting me to do so. I did test out trimming with primer, Paint and airbrushing with good results. I would highly suggest rub and buff, along with fine airbrushing. You can easily do a fast, simple rub and buff coat, not worrying about the cracks and gaps. this adds to the illusion of depth and works like drybrushing.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2461666_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7869223_n.jpg

In the end, even though I cannot wear this with my Boba (which was the point), I would still use this to turn a spare 1:1 into a full sized "model kit" similar to the mini Riddell helmet. I know not everyone troops, so if you are looking for a fantastic display prop, I would make this your second purchase - right after your 1:1 bucket!

Any chance of doing a quick shoot of how it looks in the Assasin? I have an XL one of these and an XL Merc coming...

Sure:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5984348_n.jpg

I can take pictures of the dome, but it doesn't remotely fit. Pics of that to follow this afternoon.

Thanks.. What about the cheeks and the forehead piece.. I realize that the visor part won't work on the Assasin.. (maybe on the Merc though?)...
also, with the dome... does it look like you could cut the dome a little to make it fit in the Assasin?

The cheeks are totally incompatible, as they are the traditional rounded, whereas the Assassin is angular. The dome would likely need cut vertically the may be make it line up. I guess another solution would be to get an exacto knife and cutout the greebs on the cheeks and dome and glue those to the inside of the bucket. That way you have interiors and basically a mega greeb grab bag.

The forehead piece can work in any bucket really. Almost the same with the back panel. It's just a matter of possibly trimming off chunks and not keeping it as one solid piece.

If the front and rear paddings were 'shorter' for lack of a better term would it then fit your melon?

I have had people trim around the padding pieces and then take them ot when they troop and put them back in for display (in their rooms).

In a MR standard helmet, it fits on my head with the padding in. In a SG fang it does not. You lose about an inch of room, on a resin poured helmet. as its 3x as thick.

Also to note would be there are 'mounting' holes in the rear piece, and i have rubber stndoffs that go through them, to clip it into the helmet. THis allows for the piece to not need to be glued down.

Thanks for doing this.

m2

The issue on the long pads could help, but for me the real problem is how on the keyslots on the SGTFang dip inot the bucket quiet a bit. If I were ambitious, I would cut out the center section of the back panel of the interior and use the rest. Then I could simply add whatever I could from that center to make it look interesting. The fantastic thing about this interior set is no matter what bucket you have, you can take an xacto and cut out pieces (basically turning it into modular sections) and use the ones you can.

I'm glad you mentioned the standoffs. I assumed they were from the molding and just snipped them off.

Thanks for taking the time. I am soooo busy with rl i have about 4 sets of these 'protos' and no final pulls. Im going to ffer them up to about 100 to people that want to get started, while I find time to do the rest of the project.

Yes, i understand wabout the keyslots in back. I actually never put a MQ1 in my helmets, as it is too much space.

Ideally molding the MQ1 into the back of the foam, would be the best thing:) right?

So you could see throughslots, and the foam would be the chip.

PM sent on remaining 4 sets.

These look amazing and i will definitely be interested in a set when you do your production run.

Are the inserts made of Smooth-On's semi-rigid urethane (Task series/C1515)?
In order to get a good bond with adhesives or paint, I suggest scrubbing the parts with denatured alcohol (3-4 times allowing a few hours between scrubbings) Then spray with Bull Dog adhesion promotor. This product is awesome when painting urethanes.

when would you be making one of these for the GMH? I would love to pick one up

Id make one for the gmh, if I get a gmh. At the moment I do not have one. The waiting list is long for them as far as I can tell, and I have soooooooo much money wrapped up in this stuff that I wasnt planning on getting one.

If there was a guarantee to sell quite a few of the kits, id likely get to work on it. Theres not a tun of profit here, due to the amount of time (the process is time consuming) and materials (3-5 different materials to make each one) involved. And they do not come in quantities that go together so I always end up with way too much of something, or not enough of something else.

The rubber is alumilite not smoothon. But yoru right washing with soap and water, or alcohal will help a lot when using a non laquer based paint. The testers (pactra) based paints seem to bodn to this rubber, and never come off.

If you have a kit ready I have GMH #3 Im waiting on it from Chris...as its a premium upgraded to GMH Im waiting for the CC parts to be made...but Id see how well it fit when it got here

thats cool. i understand that fully. if you ever do get your hands on one or know someone willing to lend it out at some point and want to do a run im all for it

Ok, sorry been super busy, but have been pulling a part or two a night in teh pre-pro form.

So heres the scoop. This pic shows the two types of kits I have to ship now. They are pre-pro. Meaning the end kit may have more parts, may change, etc. But I have been testing some things and pulling parts as I go.

There is one block, on some of the rear pads, that ends up denting in a bit. The test mold is a little thin. its not terrible, and adds to the 'real world wear' feel. But I wanted to point it out.

These are the kits I have 4-6 of atm. 2 white forhead/rear/black domecheek, and 2 all black.

http://www.ampgaming.com/downloads/pics/035.jpg

Heres what im projecting for the run. Id like you all to chime in.

The full kit, which will have a new forehead, and gasket for the visor is looking like 150 shipped. HOWEVER.

For every 10 I get committed, I will lower the kits $10. So if i can get 50 people interested, I will set the price at $100 for final kit.

I am only projecting 10-20 interested, so it would look more like 130-140.
I will run it this way (never done it before, but with this scenario I must).
1st: Sign up thread
2nd: $10 deposit
3rd: tally deposits, start making, give final price and ship.

The kits listed below are the $100 prepro pieces with old forehead, and no gasket. I know theres lots of budget fets out there that want these. Or people that want to get started:)

Ill provide the other pieces as a supplemental for a small fee to those that buy these.
http://www.ampgaming.com/downloads/pics/035.jpg

Storm, put me down for 2...

I have my Jango and will soon enough have the GMH... Ok folks 48 more needed :)

FYI smu the Asok Jango helmet is ALOT smaller than the Boba helmet...

Ill post a pic later I think I have it at least...of the actual difference between a Asok and a FP budget and a Marrow Sun V3

Its likely i can just fill the detail pieces with rubber for the dome, and not the whole dome, so you wouldnt have to worry about dome fit. The rest, should fit in a considerably smaller helmet.

of the 6 ready to sell for 100, 2 are currently spoke for, both black as far as I can tell.

Storm, I think I'll be patient and wait for the final pulls instead of taking one of the pre-pros, so please mark me down for 1 (black) set of final product. Thanks!

If you look on the left of the picture is a FP Budget the middle an Asok ILM, and the far right a Marrow Sun V3 notice how small the Asok is in comparison
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/...f59331fe_b.jpg

**** that's a significant difference... LOL

Stormy.. I'll paypal Friday the 21st...

Everyone wait on paypal for the sign up Im working on a new way to handle these sign ups that could be super if I can finish it quickly, which will handle a lot of the communication part (part i dont have time for at the moment) for me:)

The pieces stop short of the 'cheeks' by about 3/4 of an inc. Meaning more than 1.5 inches total curcumference and the piece still fits. Someone measure from where the cheak starts (earpiece area) all the way around the helmet to the other cheek. This will give me a better feel for how much smaller it actually is inside. It could be deeper for all i know, which would have the same circ.

any updates on the sign up ?

Due to weather and underwhelmingness im not sure how im going to handle this.

I think you sent me a 10$ dp, which im going to refund shortly.

Im likely going to shoot the prepros that arent sold, onto ebay, and take some time to sort out these projects. Working on the interior of a helmet, is daunting. Its highly likely that the expectations can not be met.

For the amount of time I have in to this project, I just am not seeing the demand that would make me double down at the moment.

Imagine trying to make and distribute a resin product, that is blemish free, out of the mold, and needs 0% filling, sanding, preping. Thats what these have to be to meet expectations, and I just dont think im prepared to handle the dissapointment.

I have a few sets I am going to put on ebay. If that ends up being a simpler outlet, Ill point people there instead.

Ill keep people informed of any progress either way.

It would be a shame to see this project stall.
The work that you have already done looks fantastic.

I hope that you decide to continue so that if I ever decide to build a Mando I can install one of your interiors.

Cheers

Craig

I hope you decide to contiune with this project too because I would have no problem spending the money to get a set from you if it just meant all you had to do was get it out of the mold and ship it "as it is". I would be more than happy to do all the filing and trimming myself just like the typical "kit" requires..

Stormrider I just saw this thread and want to give you a big thumbs up on your work and effort. I am very familiar with the costs and time involved to produce an original work like this and it's a major commitment.

I'm interested in any info on these related to the GMH fit, even if trimming is required. Hopefully you turn a profit, but in any case this is a very respectable project. I think that part of your battle is related to the ultra canon obsessed, but in my opinion this does nothing but make a helmet more interesting. :thumbsup

Hey SR. Ive been away from TDH for a bit but Im glad to see you're still pluggin away! I have
2 of your older interiors just waiting to be used, I acually toyed with the idea of using some of the pieces
in my xwing bucket, but didnt want to break up a set for that. Im not sure why the interiors would
have to be perfect.....are they not being installed into trooping helmets for the most part? Anyway
I love my 2 interiors, cant wait to get em installed, love the progess picures, youve really mastered
casting in this foamrubber material!
Mike

Thanks for the kind words all.

The jist is, that withs soft rubber, you get a little pocking, a few bubbles etc. They arent possible to fill. They just have to be so close to perfect that people are more awed than dissapointed:)

miqt, i think i have some leftovers from the old kits. Ill take a look. I ws going to do a massive junk sell real soon. I have so many pairs of almost perfect foams, blasters, knee pads, hics you wouldnt believe it. I know for a fact I have some old kit parts left, I just saw them yesterday.

Im hoping once I sell all the prepro stuff i did, I can make a mold, and move forward again. Slowly:)

If I can get my hands on one of the new helmets i could tell you if they would fit. If someone can take a measurement for me, that would be stellar. Needs to be from cheek to cheeck aroudn the lower edge. Then from lowest part below the keyslots to the detail ring around the tome.

The dome likely WONT fit, but i could create the parts that go in the dome as pieces instead of a dome, and they could be glued in.

More later.
m2

I still say they are really awesome kits. The really can work for any bucket, just don't expect a drop in solution. You can take a Xacto or scissors and trim out the greebs you want.

Another interested for GMH compatibility.

I have a couple of kits left that have a few backing bubbles. Im going to sell those for 75, like my original kits were, They will work as is, and can be trimmed to pieces to be put in iwthout the liner (flat) parts.

If anyones interested in the states for 75 shipped pm me, and ill shoot them off. Mixed color.

Im still working on the parts, this weekend im hoping it stay warm, because its getting weather time to start working on this stuff.

Stormrider,

I'm brand new to TDH and haven't decided which helmet to start with yet. So I don't want to commit to purchasing a kit from you yet.

However, I did want to say your work is INCREDIBLE! I remember seeing you post over at the RPF before. It's been a while though. Just blown away by your work here.

Ted.
Prefect42.

Thanks for the kind words from everyone.

Ive decided to offer a $100 kit instead of $150.

Looking at:
Cheeks, forehead, rear wrap-arounds and rubber greebles OR thin dome line and the center gear from the last kit.

I had someone that sent me a $10 deposit for the list, i have to figure out who that was. The feedback that ive gotten so far is that the kits are working out nicely and I want to get the kits out.

Im sure that sounds better. as soon as I get the templat efor the GMH ill know better as to how it will fit.

Ok 3 sets here ready to ship. If your ready for one send me a pm. Firt come first served. I

Specify if you want the liner or just the details of the dome in rubber

100 shipped. All black.

I have two sets remaining and am wondering if I should make any more. Anyone still interested in these or should I bank the molds.

100 shipped - all black. Also posting in ch.

Sent you a PM. :)

Geo

still want a couple sets myself.

One sold to geo, other available.

How soon are you thinking Smu? If soon, i can get them done this weekend.

Hey storm that was me who sent the 10 for a deposit but I also payed 90 for the set you sent me (making 100), hope that was ok

I'll let you know for sure I guess tomorrow... I have to wait on a certain group of folks to do what they should've done months ago...

sending payment today for 2 Stormrider

I'd be interested in a set. I have one of the Juggernaut helmets but the dementions are close to the various fett helmets.

you're interiors are friggin' awesome...i know you've had a couple hundred people tell you this already, but excellent work indeed.

I have kits, but no domes. 90 shipped for everything but the domes. I need to come up with a new way to do dome details.

Thanks for the kind words whiteshadow, much appreciated!

I just realized i never posted the painted installed pic here. This is a fp premium with the interiors installed and painted.
http://iconicprops.com/images/helmet.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gymbeau2000

The last step for me in this process was to try out rub and buff on the panel. It obviously worked extremely well. I did not try painting as weather has not been permitting me to do so. I did test out trimming with primer, Paint and airbrushing with good results. I would highly suggest rub and buff, along with fine airbrushing. You can easily do a fast, simple rub and buff coat, not worrying about the cracks and gaps. this adds to the illusion of depth and works like drybrushing.

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About the rub and buff....assuming you could wear the helmet after this is all installed, wouldn't it rub off all over the back of your head? or did you use rub and buff because you wouldn't be wearing it? I'd clear coat it, but in my experience this kind of application would just end up with a bunch of cracked and flaking clear coat.

I just rub and buffed it to illustrate that it would go on this stuff. I have not had any issues with it coming off once it "cures", although no, I don't wear it. You can wear this with you bucket, I just couldn't cause it was too tight of a fit.

Mate, please, please put me down for the wish list, the helmet interior looks fantastic, and would look awsome inside my Bobamaker helmet...

Awesome job, love the attention to detail, I would like to go on the list also please

I would love a set too if I'm not to many years late!