I think it would be unanimous that if these ever became "available" you'd be busy for a while
I think it would be unanimous that if these ever became "available" you'd be busy for a while
On to the Hyperdyne electronics!!! These high-quality pro-grade units are awesome! Thanks Hyperdyne!! As a big plus, the way it is designed allows a lot of flexibility while figuring out how to get it fitting and functioning the way I envisioned.
Please let me know if anyone doesn't follow this...
First are the pictures of the unit as it is fully modified inside the rangefinder. The LED’s are bent into position -- both the two reds on top and the white one on the bottom. The sequencing pins are cut off since I’m satisfied with the stock ESB light sequencing and I need 'em gone to fit. The front battery holder is bent slightly inward for easier access and both battery holder ends have their little metal tabs removed for easier fitting (sorry no pic). Also, the corners of the board are rounded off for better removal/insertion access(dremel ).
The LED’s are positioned to be just under the openings in the RF (see ESB). One LED is bent down sideways and then up. The other is bent down, out, and looped under the battery spring. The leads on this one are wrapped in electrical tape for now. The bottom white LED is simply pushed out of the way since 1) I didn’t have the heart to chop it, and 2) I’m still testing some ideas using fiberoptics. So the white one is wrapped in black electrical tape and stowed. The mercury switch needed to be rotated so that it would work in the right direction as the unit sat in the RF. And for all the leads, of course, there is no metal-to-metal contact.
As you follow the pictures, I’m hoping that you can follow the ghost images of the LED’s and mercury switch to understand the routing (since I didn’t think the take a picture of the stock kit )
Now I’ll explain how the kit goes into the RF. First, I show the final arrangement of the Hyperdyne unit. Black electrical tape jackets the LED’s (batteries taped per Hyperdyne’s recommendation). The red light only needs to escape out the top after all. The clear part needs two cuts with the band saw (plus some sanding for any blade marks), and when I put the “blueprints” up, you will see where the cut goes. Next, I show how the Hyperdyne kit sits in relation to the clear part as they fit into the RF.
As for the clear part, it is backed with a thicker photo paper folded to fit around the corners. The inside is painted flat black, while the side up against the clear is sprayed with Testors Chrome .
For the time being, until I figure out this lighting situation, I have three flattened out wires (just plain metal wire) painted with an acrylic green glowing paint (available at craft stores). Each wire is cut to a length as seen in the ROTJ MoM photos, and this is one of the major research areas I’m exploring right now since the ESB examples I suspect are different. They may well have put a single light into the RF for ESB, but we’ll see. The last fifth of each wire is bent back to for the shape of a “7” in order to wrap around the cut corner and hold on. They punch through the paper -- that helps hold them in place too, and black tape is placed over their inside bent ends to hold them as well. It might sound flimsy, but they’re really not going anywhere. Like I said…this area is in-work, but looks alright now.
Last edited by SingleSeat; Oct 13, 2005 at 9:02 PM.
INCREDIBLE!!!! This has been one of the most detailed and informative topics I have read in a while. This RF looks fantastic. :thumbup
Please add me to the list, if you ever decide to go into the RF buisness.
P.S. Now I have some ideas on how to modify my Hyperdyne LED unit. Thanks.
I say let's start the bidding on this one when it's completed8) May the deepest pockets win
Big thanks on the comments everyone !
viola... (a little blury)
Last edited by SingleSeat; Sep 16, 2005 at 6:23 PM.
Wow, that looks awesome!! Thanks for taking to time to document your process. I could most likely modify my boards to fit inside the RF as you show. How much did you have to remove from the board edges so it would fit?
It looks like if I repositioned the red LEDs, moved the tilt switch, and installed the pin header on the battery side everything would fit great. Is this about right??
Actually the lengths of the LED leads opened up options. I needed room to play since I've never exactly built one of these before . I shaved the corners so bringing the board in and out would be easier. Your pin header idea might work, and that way I could keep the pins intact. The biggest option-expander would be longer leads on the mercury switch. I'd like to tilt this switch even more if I could, but I'm afraid this might go as far as tilting the whole board forward; i.e. I'd like the lights to activate a little further down in the pivot range from the sheer vertical, so that Fett can tilt his head to a greater degree without activating the RF -- but no big deal right now, it's still wicked cool!!! 8) 8) But now that I think about it, the leads on the mercury switch are aligned side-to-side along the long side of the board. It might open up more twisting/tucking options if they were turned 45deg. in their mounts (I wouldn't say so for the red LEDs though). -caddycorner- As it sits in the RF, the mercury switch is pointed along a down and aft axis. If I could get longer leads I could bend it back and then "scoop" it back up toward the board to give Fett some more head movement freedom. The sturdy battery mount welds are great, they held up to the slight bend. All in all, centralizing componentry opens up options (such as the bottom chip and little bits).
-edit- However, I don't want anyone to get the idea that this unit is less than ideal....quite the contrary. This is a very specific example of a very specific installation and we're only talking about progress improvement. The Hyperdyne kit is fantastic!!!
I made a picture to show what I mean...the ghost mercury switch is what I would do if I had longer leads.
To everyone out there: a few obvious statements...remember to be careful when bending any of these leads, 1) no metal-to-metal contact, and 2) don't break 'em, be gentle.
Last edited by SingleSeat; Sep 16, 2005 at 9:37 PM.
Ok Fett fans, let me back up a little. The weathering in these pictures is about 4/5th's complete. The painting is but a minor task after all this work. I really don’t have any recommendation for the black. I used a Testors Flat Black – of the Model Master variety. After some priming and correcting minor sanding errors, I sprayed the black. I masked the white interior from the spray. I coated the piece in Testors Semi-Gloss (clear).
All weathering went topical – this piece is so small and most of the weathering (scratches) are on the corners which made masking fluid and layering impractical to me. Testors silver (aka bright silver) makes up the “scratches.” I used the tiniest brush I could find and trimmed it down even further. Still, the “chips” under the LED’s would take some tiny dabs of flat black inside them per the ref. material (can’t see a lot in some pics since the flash just wipes it out). Sometimes dry-brushing gave me the rough gritty look to the scrape that I was looking for. Then I would create black scratches and tiny dents with an array of sharp (read: small), yet dull metal instruments. Everything from a tweezer, to a scissor tip, to the backside of a hobby knife blade provided the small “black” scratches into the semi-gloss to match the ESB rangefinder .
-side note- Notice that the .080" styrene gives the same thickness as the ESB piece as you look in the LED holes. Not so if I were making an ROTJ RF -- I'd use a thinner piece to match the MoM example to drill holes into.
Last edited by SingleSeat; Sep 16, 2005 at 9:40 PM.
------oops double post.
Everyone...keep checking back...I hate to cause any re-reads, but I edit a lot to make everything as clear as possible.
Last edited by SingleSeat; Sep 17, 2005 at 9:49 AM.
I experimented with many different ideas for the interior with an eye on the ref CD. Dark backgrounds for the clear part looked wrong entirely. White and lighter backgrounds just made it look like you were looking into a hollow box, with the three line cuts creating their own shadows -- lame . I created a plate from more .080” sheet styrene that would fit in the roof of the RF and painted with Testors Chrome (liquid cement holds it inside). This provided the look of infinity when looking directly into the RF; i.e. as Fett would look into it in the down position. The walls were kept clean and white since they weren’t as much of a factor when looking into the piece and the clear part would needlessly scrape paint off when removing/replacing it for battery access. The non-visible interior areas were painted with a flat black to help seal off extraneous light and promote shadows if looking into the LED holes. This infinite background also provided the illusion that the three-line cuts were in the middle of the clear part.
-side note- when looking into the clear part, the camera flash is somewhat swallowed up by the sides of the prism...it's not as opaque as the camera would lead you to believe and the three-line cuts do indeed seem to refract down into view from the top.
Last edited by SingleSeat; Sep 17, 2005 at 9:45 AM.
OK now that you have the "easy" stuff out of the way,....go paint the helmet
wow, that if freakin awesome! are you gonna post blueprints?
Maybe I'll just wait and get to work on the BlasterDL44 Blaster said:
Last edited by SingleSeat; Sep 17, 2005 at 4:13 PM. Reason: spelling
I'm drawin' the last of the prints up for you guys now.Nutcore said:
Hold on DL44, there’s still a bit more action left in these 2 ½ inches of black plastic . Up next is what I call the window frame. It looks like a flip-up button protector since it has hinge holes on either side of a 45deg angled side (that allows the cover to flip all the way back in order to push the button) – it would be to a button that you wouldn’t want to push by accident.
In this case, it’s just another assembly of .030” sheet styrene with one end made from .080” sheet. I cut the sides out, cemented them together, reinforced the interior with a super-small amount of 2-part epoxy (the clear locktite stuff is what I’ve been using). The centerpiece of the window required rounded corners and the dremel stepped up to the plate. With that piece, the window gets cut first, then the outside of the shape comes second. Once I could get all the parts together, I could putty the seems and sand the tips off the 45deg ends to blend with the slanted end. After everything was cut, blended, and sanded, I drilled the little “hinge” holes with dremel’s smallest drill bits and finished them with dremel’s smallest little ball-type engravers. They are about 0.8 - 0.9 mm in diameter.
You have GOT to be kidding me! This amount of detail in a two inch piece?
Dude... what do you do for a living? Incredible work!
<------ I stay busy Thanks, webchief!webchief said:
Flat black covered the piece and Testors Flat Tan weathered it, again with a tiny brush. Flicking a toothbrush would have been too random for me to duplicate the original. Finally some brown pastels, flaked onto the surface with a pin, and rubbed around with a small dry brush blended the weathering on the window frame.
Since I’m a guy who doesn’t exactly need glasses, I had to go buy some and take the lenses out of a set of reading glasses ($8 at W/M) with a thick +3.00 correction factor. I cut out a square 23mm by 23mm of Duct tape and placed it in the middle of the lens on the [concave] inside. Then I covered the other side with another slab of Duct tape (to protect from minor scratches). I took two pieces of VERY dense black foam (from who knows where) and wrapped those in a scrap piece of Velcro (soft side). I placed this mess into a vice and used a coping saw to cut the 23mm square around the tape. The whole window frame is about 23mm, but I needed some extra room in the clear window to sand it down to perfection with the dremel.
**dremel cutting wheels and plastic reading glasses don’t get along…forget about it!...saw the piece by hand, it only takes a few seconds**
I rounded the corners of the clear piece also for a better fit. Now the piece wedges into the window frame nicely – no glue. I elected to have the concave side facing out since the ref. pics show a little upward bulge between the window frame and the clear RF part if you look through the side view (but I guess that doesn’t matter since I can switch it around if I want). I applied RTV silicone to adhere the window frame assembly to the RF clear part. If you use a healthy quantity, yet enough to not be oozing out the sides, it holds steady under jarring testing (I’m still curious about a replacement glue…maybe E6000…that doesn’t mar the RF clear part). The key is to set it, and let it dry for a day or two. Heck, I’ve got silicone holding the master link clip on my motorcycle chain too -- It'll hold. Also, the silicone cleans up easy wet or dry.
One point of note that I found was that in the ESB scenes where Fett is loading Solo into Slave I, his window frame is gone…I guess the real one just kept falling off, hah!
Last edited by SingleSeat; Sep 17, 2005 at 9:18 PM.
You've GOT to be kiddin ME!!!!!
Holy freakin gosh.
The original part hasn't been found yet, but you've created the best imaginiable alternative. Amazing creativity and eye for detail.
I didn't read this part till now...SingleSeatForever said:
WOW...thanks SSF....:o ......
hear that? That's my EGO BLOWING UP..
Again GREAT tutorial so far...:thumbup :thumbup ..can't wait to get mine .