SingleSeat's Rangefinder (Scratch-built) pics

**SingleSeat** · 09-07-2005, 07:00 PM

I for one couldn't stand the prospect of going through all the effort of creating the perfect Fett helmet only to top it with a solid plastic-looking rangefinder. I did my share of searching for record players, custom resin parts, and so forth, but in the end I caved in and decided to scratch-build my own. My MarrowSun resin piece gave me a sense of scale, but the Hyperdyne kit I was installing really drove the custom dimensions. Then there was the matter of the clear part – a challenge in itself.

So here is the result. Disregard the stalk as it is there only to illustrate the concept. I have a new stalk in work to replicate the prop part. I wanted a lighted, working replica with no seems for lids or doors to access the electronics.

The clear part I attacked first. I settled on clear cast acrylic (stay away from extruded plastics since they are so much harder to work with). I worked the plastic over in a woodworking shop. After drafting a set of dimensions, I ended up with two separate shapes for ESB and ROTJ. My helmet is going ESB, so these pics are of that version. I'm still in the process of modifying the clear part to better match the real prop so maybe I'll show that stuff later. The black window frame is also scratch-built from sheet styrene. And inside it is a piece cut from the lens of some cheap Wal-Mart reading glasses to give it that refracting look.

The main body is constructed of sheet styrene and is attached to the stalk by a bent steel plate that forms the very bottom of the rangefinder and slides into the outside edge firmly. The rangefinder is removable from the stalk in order to access the batteries and the clear plastic part if I want to change it or if it becomes damaged. The steel plate is also attached via a small screw so I can swap the post whenever I want.

If you want this to turn into a tutorial, just respond to this thread and I'll give you the download edit: oops missed a scratch...where's that little brush!

**Gonzo Fett** · 09-07-2005, 07:19 PM

tutorial. HERE HERE!

**Got Maul** · 09-07-2005, 07:33 PM

wow ! Yes, tutorial or construction pics...you even got those hinge-y things right !

**webchief** · 09-07-2005, 07:42 PM

A tutorial would be great!

**Boba Swede** · 09-08-2005, 02:26 AM

yes yes!! Tutorial!!

**Christo Fett** · 09-08-2005, 06:00 AM

Please!

**SingleSeat** · 09-08-2005, 08:04 AM

Alright dudes, so the story begins with a slab of 1-inch thick clear cast acrylic plastic. I looked through plenty of materials before settling on the cast acrylic. This stuff is perfectly clear once you peel the paper off. Like I said before, go for the cast vice extruded. Apparently, extruded acrylic requires special cutting blades and so forth since it tends to melt quickly, ball up, and generally turn into an unworkable gooey mess.

Unfortunately I didn't snap pics for making the cuts, since I needed both my hands (in order to keep both my hands

!) Using a table saw, band saw, and a sanding disc, I cut 12" long strips from which I could make about five individual items. Then I made a lengthwise cut, and the back-side angle cut. The disc sander provides the front angle. These angles are the most significant differences between ESB and ROTJ from my research. The insides of the clear plastic hold the rest. The band saw requires the most precision and the steadiest hand. I tried using the table saw and a miter saw to cut the front angle, but in the end, the disc sander did just as fine a job with much greater precision and a finer finish. The purple-background examples and yellowish copies were early experiments with the angles and dimensions, but not anywhere near the finished sizing. Yet this is about what the pieces looked like before any finish sanding. Also, I will be posting my dimensions for all parts in the future when I have more time to get the graphics going.

**SingleSeat** · 09-08-2005, 08:33 AM

After the part was fully cut out, I hit every side except the "top" (which is still perfectly clear) with the disc sander to take out any blade marks. I sanded the rest by hand on a flat, glass surface with increasing grits of sandpaper stepping from 150 – 220 – 300 – 600 – 1000 – 1500. This provided the best finish -- the final finish in the first pictures.

Once I could see well through the plastic, I could then make the critical "three-line" cuts into the block. I tried so many options for drilling and none of them really panned out to my liking. The drill bits are simply too small. Even after I had a couple of bit tips modified for cutting this kind of plastic, the simple fact remained that they are so small and spin so fast that a lot of heat is generated. This heat melts the plastic and with the combination of drilled excess and melting plastic rotating around inside a long hole with nowhere to go (even by hand drilling), the finish of the inside of any drilled hole gets destroyed and you wouldn’t be able to see any green screen-accurate details (like the ROTJ example) once inserted. Drilling slowly and extracting any excess didn't seem to work at all either. So I found the next best option…I used the dremel router attachment, inverted it, and used a tiny bit to make channels instead of cloudy drill holes! Now there's room for the garbage to escape the hole. You'll see later how this plays out with the material "behind the glass" so to speak to give the right look. The dremel made this project happen, period C'mon webchief, sing the praises of the dremel for us again! Amen brother.

**don't drop these babies or a corner could easily break off**

Another experiment I tried was to paint a clear part with both Testor's dullcote and semi-gloss. The paint finished off any fine scratches great, but it was too opaque for my taste and would never be very durable -- even to a fingernail scratch. You could still see the three channels, but vaguely. Plus the semi-gloss finish just sucked WAY too much to consider. However, I wouldn't rule out the dullcote…it just wasn't my style.

**Jango_Fett_Jr** · 09-08-2005, 09:32 AM

Now that is amazing work! I'd love to see how you did the rest, including the little hinge.

The more I look at it, I see you got the weathering exact. That has got to be the best RF I've ever seen!

**SEEKER** · 09-08-2005, 09:39 AM

KICK BUTT MAN!!

**Nomadd** · 09-08-2005, 11:15 AM

Most Awesome

**obi sean kenobi** · 09-08-2005, 11:18 AM

um, can you do a run of these?
something tells me theyd be hugely popular......
OSK

**webchief** · 09-08-2005, 11:21 AM

Originally Posted by SingleSeatForever

The dremel made this project happen, period C'mon webchief, sing the praises of the dremel for us again! Amen brother.

Iycis can tell ya I can belt out a mean opera.

Your work is amazing. Selling any of these puppies?

**RBF** · 09-08-2005, 12:36 PM

awesome... freaking work man!!

**SingleSeat** · 09-11-2005, 01:00 PM

Almost back home to give this thread an update!!! Thanks for the kind words guys! If I can make a run happen, I'll post a thread for interest in the clear plastic part later. You're on your own building the RF.

BTW, I'd really recommend building your own. Hollowing out premade parts might be possible, but you never know if you'll run into brittle resin, a big bite from the dremel (requiring a separate repair in the end), the dimensions of the clear part may not work out, etc.. But I'll warn you, others with sweet RF's (MarrowSun) have said it takes a lot of time and they're not lying! I'm here to tell you scratch-building this aspect of Fett takes just as much time, if not more, than hollowing.

**DL44 Blaster** · 09-11-2005, 01:28 PM

WOW...Just when I thought a Rangefinder couldn't get any better.....Fantastic work!!!!:thumbup

Steve

**SingleSeat** · 09-13-2005, 08:31 PM

Operational commitments called...and I'm back home!

With clear part in hand, I start to draft the dimensions on paper. By cutting the paper and tracing it (allowing for pencil line width), I transfer the pieces to .080" sheet styrene and start cutting each side out. I build the sides around the clear part. First fitting together each part with Scotch tape, I use liquid cement (Tamiya) to "weld" the pieces together. The next to last side is made from .030" thick sheet so the Hyperdyne kit can fit better (see hi-light). The outside wall will be last. Along each seem inside, I reinforce the assembly with 2-part epoxy -- the RF still needs to be durable as well as contain what is to come in final assembly! Now the walls are like a rock! Inside you can see the beginnings of a shelf to align the electronics. During assembly, each part is customized to fit better with the mighty dremel.

**SingleSeat** · 09-14-2005, 03:32 PM

Once assembled for the most part, I use Tamiya Putty to smooth over the seems (I like the way it flows, but each dose has to be fresh because it hardens quickly). After sanding, I move to a disposable fingernail file (emory board) to take down all the hard edges and corners. The reference material shows an RF with no real hard corners, but it's easy to go crazy here and take off too much. An Exacto knife cuts the two little chips taken out of the upper outside edge under the LED's.

With strips of .030 styrene cut to fit, I build the interior. Along the outer wall (under the LED's) I lay two vertical strips in the corners. They will help build an internal slot into which the steel mounting bracket will slide into once another sheet is cut to lay across them...stay tuned.

**SingleSeat** · 09-14-2005, 07:03 PM

Again, I used liquid cement to build the slot, but I layered 2-part epoxy in the seems and over the lip (edges of the slot opening). Now it's structurally very sound. 8)

The dremel cutting wheel slices a new shape out of 30-guage steel plate (some sort of vent cover I stumbled across in the hardware store, but was good scrap metal to me). Then I use some big pliers (a vice would work) to bend the steel along the line shown to the angle desired – eyeballing it. I stole the screw from the antenna bracket inside the zip-zap r/c car controller I'll be using to motorize the RF stalk later.

The whole bracket will screw into the stalk, and later I will set another pin in the stalk that goes through the bracket to keep it aligned. However, it is very secure.

**SingleSeat** · 09-14-2005, 07:12 PM

Ok, some more pics of the bracket in action...

The lower half is painted with two coats of a flat black enamel and two coats of Dullcote. The bottom tips and edges are a little bent so as to fit more nicely into the RF.

It goes in smoothly, and is snug enough for a VERY solid fit. This thing holds on tight! (yea, I really did just say that. how else was I going to explain it!?)

**SingleSeat** · 09-14-2005, 07:20 PM

man, if I'm not making any sense, let me know......

**webchief** · 09-15-2005, 03:47 AM

Wow, I just can't believe the detail and quality of your work... unreal! You sure you don't work at Lucasfilm somewhere? :thumbup

**SEEKER** · 09-15-2005, 03:55 AM

Originally Posted by webchief

Wow, I just can't believe the detail and quality of your work... unreal! You sure you don't work at Lucasfilm somewhere? :thumbup

You could say that again.

**crazy4BobaFett** · 09-15-2005, 06:03 AM

That is amazing! You are a true craftsman, it has crazy detail.
You could corner the market in RF's

**Spideyfett** · 09-15-2005, 08:29 AM

Originally Posted by crazy4BobaFett

That is amazing! You are a true craftsman, it has crazy detail.

:thumbup :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup
I want one!!...Mark me down...

**DL44 Blaster** · 09-15-2005, 12:09 PM

I think it would be unanimous that if these ever became "available" you'd be busy for a while

Steve

**webchief** · 09-15-2005, 12:31 PM

Ditto

**SingleSeat** · 09-15-2005, 06:58 PM

On to the Hyperdyne electronics!!! These high-quality pro-grade units are awesome!

Thanks Hyperdyne!! As a big plus, the way it is designed allows a lot of flexibility while figuring out how to get it fitting and functioning the way I envisioned.

Please let me know if anyone doesn't follow this...

First are the pictures of the unit as it is fully modified inside the rangefinder. The LED’s are bent into position -- both the two reds on top and the white one on the bottom. The sequencing pins are cut off since I’m satisfied with the stock ESB light sequencing and I need 'em gone to fit. The front battery holder is bent slightly inward for easier access and both battery holder ends have their little metal tabs removed for easier fitting (sorry no pic). Also, the corners of the board are rounded off for better removal/insertion access(dremel

).

The LED’s are positioned to be just under the openings in the RF (see ESB). One LED is bent down sideways and then up. The other is bent down, out, and looped under the battery spring. The leads on this one are wrapped in electrical tape for now. The bottom white LED is simply pushed out of the way since 1) I didn’t have the heart to chop it, and 2) I’m still testing some ideas using fiberoptics. So the white one is wrapped in black electrical tape and stowed. The mercury switch needed to be rotated so that it would work in the right direction as the unit sat in the RF. And for all the leads, of course, there is no metal-to-metal contact.

As you follow the pictures, I’m hoping that you can follow the ghost images of the LED’s and mercury switch to understand the routing (since I didn’t think the take a picture of the stock kit

)

**SingleSeat** · 09-16-2005, 05:34 AM

Now I’ll explain how the kit goes into the RF. First, I show the final arrangement of the Hyperdyne unit. Black electrical tape jackets the LED’s (batteries taped per Hyperdyne’s recommendation). The red light only needs to escape out the top after all. The clear part needs two cuts with the band saw (plus some sanding for any blade marks), and when I put the “blueprints” up, you will see where the cut goes. Next, I show how the Hyperdyne kit sits in relation to the clear part as they fit into the RF.

As for the clear part, it is backed with a thicker photo paper folded to fit around the corners. The inside is painted flat black, while the side up against the clear is sprayed with Testors Chrome

.

....

**SingleSeat** · 09-16-2005, 05:41 AM

For the time being, until I figure out this lighting situation, I have three flattened out wires (just plain metal wire) painted with an acrylic green glowing paint (available at craft stores). Each wire is cut to a length as seen in the ROTJ MoM photos, and this is one of the major research areas I’m exploring right now since the ESB examples I suspect are different. They may well have put a single light into the RF for ESB, but we’ll see. The last fifth of each wire is bent back to for the shape of a “7” in order to wrap around the cut corner and hold on. They punch through the paper -- that helps hold them in place too, and black tape is placed over their inside bent ends to hold them as well. It might sound flimsy, but they’re really not going anywhere. Like I said…this area is in-work, but looks alright now.

**Gator Fett** · 09-16-2005, 06:10 AM

INCREDIBLE!!!! This has been one of the most detailed and informative topics I have read in a while. This RF looks fantastic. :thumbup

Please add me to the list, if you ever decide to go into the RF buisness.

Gator

P.S. Now I have some ideas on how to modify my Hyperdyne LED unit. Thanks.

**DL44 Blaster** · 09-16-2005, 12:19 PM

I say let's start the bidding on this one when it's completed8) May the deepest pockets win

Steve

**SingleSeat** · 09-16-2005, 01:57 PM

Big thanks on the comments everyone

!

viola... (a little blury)

**hyperdyne** · 09-16-2005, 03:07 PM

Wow, that looks awesome!! Thanks for taking to time to document your process. I could most likely modify my boards to fit inside the RF as you show. How much did you have to remove from the board edges so it would fit?

It looks like if I repositioned the red LEDs, moved the tilt switch, and installed the pin header on the battery side everything would fit great. Is this about right??

**SingleSeat** · 09-16-2005, 04:22 PM

Originally Posted by hyperdyne

Wow, that looks awesome!! Thanks for taking to time to document your process. I could most likely modify my boards to fit inside the RF as you show. How much did you have to remove from the board edges so it would fit?

It looks like if I repositioned the red LEDs, moved the tilt switch, and installed the pin header on the battery side everything would fit great. Is this about right??

Actually the lengths of the LED leads opened up options. I needed room to play since I've never exactly built one of these before

. I shaved the corners so bringing the board in and out would be easier. Your pin header idea might work, and that way I could keep the pins intact. The biggest option-expander would be longer leads on the mercury switch. I'd like to tilt this switch even more if I could, but I'm afraid this might go as far as tilting the whole board forward; i.e. I'd like the lights to activate a little further down in the pivot range from the sheer vertical, so that Fett can tilt his head to a greater degree without activating the RF -- but no big deal right now, it's still wicked cool!!! 8) 8) But now that I think about it, the leads on the mercury switch are aligned side-to-side along the long side of the board. It might open up more twisting/tucking options if they were turned 45deg. in their mounts (I wouldn't say so for the red LEDs though). -caddycorner- As it sits in the RF, the mercury switch is pointed along a down and aft axis. If I could get longer leads I could bend it back and then "scoop" it back up toward the board to give Fett some more head movement freedom. The sturdy battery mount welds are great, they held up to the slight bend. All in all, centralizing componentry opens up options (such as the bottom chip and little bits).

-edit- However, I don't want anyone to get the idea that this unit is less than ideal....quite the contrary. This is a very specific example of a very specific installation and we're only talking about progress improvement. The Hyperdyne kit is fantastic!!!

I made a picture to show what I mean...the ghost mercury switch is what I would do if I had longer leads.

To everyone out there: a few obvious statements...remember to be careful when bending any of these leads, 1) no metal-to-metal contact, and 2) don't break 'em, be gentle.

**SingleSeat** · 09-16-2005, 07:21 PM

Ok Fett fans, let me back up a little. The weathering in these pictures is about 4/5th's complete. The painting is but a minor task after all this work. I really don’t have any recommendation for the black. I used a Testors Flat Black – of the Model Master variety. After some priming and correcting minor sanding errors, I sprayed the black. I masked the white interior from the spray. I coated the piece in Testors Semi-Gloss (clear).

All weathering went topical – this piece is so small and most of the weathering (scratches) are on the corners which made masking fluid and layering impractical to me. Testors silver (aka bright silver) makes up the “scratches.” I used the tiniest brush I could find and trimmed it down even further. Still, the “chips” under the LED’s would take some tiny dabs of flat black inside them per the ref. material (can’t see a lot in some pics since the flash just wipes it out). Sometimes dry-brushing gave me the rough gritty look to the scrape that I was looking for. Then I would create black scratches and tiny dents with an array of sharp (read: small), yet dull metal instruments. Everything from a tweezer, to a scissor tip, to the backside of a hobby knife blade provided the small “black” scratches into the semi-gloss to match the ESB rangefinder

.

-side note- Notice that the .080" styrene gives the same thickness as the ESB piece as you look in the LED holes. Not so if I were making an ROTJ RF -- I'd use a thinner piece to match the MoM example to drill holes into.

**SingleSeat** · 09-17-2005, 06:44 AM

------oops double post.
Everyone...keep checking back...I hate to cause any re-reads, but I edit a lot to make everything as clear as possible.

**SingleSeat** · 09-17-2005, 06:45 AM

I experimented with many different ideas for the interior with an eye on the ref CD. Dark backgrounds for the clear part looked wrong entirely. White and lighter backgrounds just made it look like you were looking into a hollow box, with the three line cuts creating their own shadows -- lame

. I created a plate from more .080” sheet styrene that would fit in the roof of the RF and painted with Testors Chrome (liquid cement holds it inside). This provided the look of infinity when looking directly into the RF; i.e. as Fett would look into it in the down position. The walls were kept clean and white since they weren’t as much of a factor when looking into the piece and the clear part would needlessly scrape paint off when removing/replacing it for battery access. The non-visible interior areas were painted with a flat black to help seal off extraneous light and promote shadows if looking into the LED holes. This infinite background also provided the illusion that the three-line cuts were in the middle of the clear part.

-side note- when looking into the clear part, the camera flash is somewhat swallowed up by the sides of the prism...it's not as opaque as the camera would lead you to believe and the three-line cuts do indeed seem to refract down into view from the top.

**SEEKER** · 09-17-2005, 07:06 AM

INSANE!!!

**DL44 Blaster** · 09-17-2005, 10:05 AM

OK now that you have the "easy" stuff out of the way,....go paint the helmet

Steve

**Nutcore** · 09-17-2005, 12:14 PM

wow, that if freakin awesome! are you gonna post blueprints?

**SingleSeat** · 09-17-2005, 02:11 PM

Originally Posted by DL44 Blaster

OK now that you have the "easy" stuff out of the way,....go paint the helmet

Steve

Maybe I'll just wait and get to work on the Blaster

**SingleSeat** · 09-17-2005, 02:12 PM

Originally Posted by Nutcore

wow, that if freakin awesome! are you gonna post blueprints?

I'm drawin' the last of the prints up for you guys now.

**SingleSeat** · 09-17-2005, 03:05 PM

Hold on DL44, there’s still a bit more action left in these 2 ½ inches of black plastic

. Up next is what I call the window frame. It looks like a flip-up button protector since it has hinge holes on either side of a 45deg angled side (that allows the cover to flip all the way back in order to push the button) – it would be to a button that you wouldn’t want to push by accident.

In this case, it’s just another assembly of .030” sheet styrene with one end made from .080” sheet. I cut the sides out, cemented them together, reinforced the interior with a super-small amount of 2-part epoxy (the clear locktite stuff is what I’ve been using). The centerpiece of the window required rounded corners and the dremel stepped up to the plate. With that piece, the window gets cut first, then the outside of the shape comes second. Once I could get all the parts together, I could putty the seems and sand the tips off the 45deg ends to blend with the slanted end. After everything was cut, blended, and sanded, I drilled the little “hinge” holes with dremel’s smallest drill bits and finished them with dremel’s smallest little ball-type engravers. They are about 0.8 - 0.9 mm in diameter.

**webchief** · 09-17-2005, 05:30 PM

You have GOT to be kidding me! This amount of detail in a two inch piece?

Dude... what do you do for a living? Incredible work!

**SingleSeat** · 09-17-2005, 06:17 PM

Originally Posted by webchief

You have GOT to be kidding me! This amount of detail in a two inch piece?

Dude... what do you do for a living? Incredible work!

<------ I stay busy

Thanks, webchief!

**SingleSeat** · 09-17-2005, 06:26 PM

Flat black covered the piece and Testors Flat Tan weathered it, again with a tiny brush. Flicking a toothbrush would have been too random for me to duplicate the original. Finally some brown pastels, flaked onto the surface with a pin, and rubbed around with a small dry brush blended the weathering on the window frame.

Since I’m a guy who doesn’t exactly need glasses, I had to go buy some and take the lenses out of a set of reading glasses ($8 at W/M) with a thick +3.00 correction factor. I cut out a square 23mm by 23mm of Duct tape and placed it in the middle of the lens on the [concave] inside. Then I covered the other side with another slab of Duct tape (to protect from minor scratches). I took two pieces of VERY dense black foam (from who knows where) and wrapped those in a scrap piece of Velcro (soft side). I placed this mess into a vice and used a coping saw to cut the 23mm square around the tape. The whole window frame is about 23mm, but I needed some extra room in the clear window to sand it down to perfection with the dremel.

**dremel cutting wheels and plastic reading glasses don’t get along…forget about it!...saw the piece by hand, it only takes a few seconds**

I rounded the corners of the clear piece also for a better fit. Now the piece wedges into the window frame nicely – no glue. I elected to have the concave side facing out since the ref. pics show a little upward bulge between the window frame and the clear RF part if you look through the side view (but I guess that doesn’t matter since I can switch it around if I want). I applied RTV silicone to adhere the window frame assembly to the RF clear part. If you use a healthy quantity, yet enough to not be oozing out the sides, it holds steady under jarring testing (I’m still curious about a replacement glue…maybe E6000…that doesn’t mar the RF clear part). The key is to set it, and let it dry for a day or two. Heck, I’ve got silicone holding the master link clip on my motorcycle chain too -- It'll hold. Also, the silicone cleans up easy wet or dry.

One point of note that I found was that in the ESB scenes where Fett is loading Solo into Slave I, his window frame is gone…I guess the real one just kept falling off, hah!

**Spideyfett** · 09-17-2005, 06:29 PM

You've GOT to be kiddin ME!!!!!

Brilliant bro!!

**Jango_Fett_Jr** · 09-17-2005, 07:29 PM

Holy freakin gosh.
The original part hasn't been found yet, but you've created the best imaginiable alternative. Amazing creativity and eye for detail.

**Spideyfett** · 09-17-2005, 07:41 PM

Originally Posted by SingleSeatForever

This simple little thread is dedicated to Spideyfett's My MS2 tutorial where you can learn about more than just painting a great Fett helmet!

I didn't read this part till now...
WOW...thanks SSF....:o ......
hear that? That's my EGO BLOWING UP..

Again GREAT tutorial so far...:thumbup :thumbup ..can't wait to get mine

.

**Pavespawn** · 09-17-2005, 08:52 PM

Whoa. This is incredible. Your degree has to be in Engineering or something isn't it? BTW, where are you stationed? If you say Eglin I'm gonna faint.

**Bleahhh** · 09-17-2005, 10:55 PM

nice...any jango RFs for sale?

**bobamaker** · 09-18-2005, 12:59 AM

You've dfinitely set the standard by which all other RF's will now be judged. Managing to get a movie accurate design together with flashing LEDs... stunning. Thanks for sharing your hard work with us.

**Gonzo Fett** · 09-18-2005, 10:06 AM

wow this is really cool..I wonder if my briot lens cutter could cut out a lens that small....either way you did a great job cutting it by hand! Wow...most impressive. Talk about raising the bar!

good job!

**SingleSeat** · 09-18-2005, 01:26 PM

Almost wrapping up here

! The clear part has a tiny groove cut into one end of it’s inside wall that serves to “click” into part of the steel bracket that is just barely too big – it wants to bite into the clear part. But with the groove, it just pops into place! I used the smallest Exacto saw blade for this cut (see hobby store – it’s a blade about 4.5” long). It’s not so easy to get this groove in the pictures so I showed where it is with dotted lines. It’s not very deep, maybe enough to catch your fingernail to know that it’s there, but not much more. No glue is required since the clear part is under too much pressure to go anywhere, and the welded and expoxied RF isn’t going anywhere either. To assemble the whole thing (such as after changing the batteries),
1) Insert the Hyperdyne kit.
2) Slide the RF body onto the steel bracket.
3) Insert the clear part, narrow end first into the RF. Set the larger end of the clear part into the RF until it clicks into the setting groove. Make any adjustment necessary to the narrow end of the clear part to make it level.

There you have it. Ready to get good ranging on any pesky YT-1300 that tries to run! Simple as that.

**Delta-9** · 09-18-2005, 07:25 PM

You are the RF pimp. :thumbup

**hyperdyne** · 09-19-2005, 11:12 AM

Wow, fantastic work!

BTW, if you make plans or even do a run I can modify my RF board to custom fit inside your RF dims. I can move those components around no problem as shown in your pics!

Thanks again for the inspirational work...

**SingleSeat** · 09-19-2005, 02:16 PM

Originally Posted by Bleahhh

nice...any jango RFs for sale?

Nothin's for sale just yet, but maybe later

...I've gotta sort out some admin details and timing issues so keep hope alive. As for Jango, that depends if anyone has any hi-res Jango rangefinder reference material I could use to see if this is do-able. -edit- was a huge Boba fan standing in line in 1980, so you can see why I don't have any Jango pics

**-BobaFett-** · 09-19-2005, 10:44 PM

That is one impressive rangefinder

!!!

**darkjediknight** · 09-20-2005, 01:55 PM

Great job!

**SingleSeat** · 09-22-2005, 06:44 PM

Real quick, here's my design for the "window frame."

**webchief** · 09-23-2005, 05:45 AM

Unreal. I can't imagine what your suit is going to look like if you've spent this much time on such a small part of it. You're work is truly impressive.

**slave1driver** · 09-23-2005, 06:32 AM

Truly stunning work my man. I painted up my rf, put the scratches on it, and was generally happy with it until I saw your work. I'll never look at my rf the same now.

Great job! I have "rf" envy! :P

**Nutcore** · 09-23-2005, 09:17 AM

Originally Posted by slave1driver

Truly stunning work my man. I painted up my rf, put the scratches on it, and was generally happy with it until I saw your work. I'll never look at my rf the same now.

Great job! I have "rf" envy! :P

Haha yeah me too, I thought I was all cool because i recast a DP RF in clear resin, but now I might as well throw it out cuz im gonna attemp to build one of these puppies. Thanx single!

**SingleSeat** · 09-23-2005, 11:18 AM

oops, I had to re-post the correct "window frame" diagram above. If you're looking, get this updated picture. The notches were made with the dremel cutting wheel -very carefully-

**SingleSeat** · 09-29-2005, 06:22 PM

Hold on Nutcore, more diagrams are coming…

Sorry for the break everyone, and thanks for all the support! Ok, I’m no draftsman, but I hope this gives everyone a start on the clear plastic part. As with any dimensions I provide, they’re all pretty flexible since we’re not dealing with tolerances on the space shuttle or anything. Band saws, table saws, they’re not precision cutting tools. Allow plenty of room to “sneak up” on the right dimensions. Make the dimensions work for you…each one of these RFs quickly turns into a one-off custom part. The disc sander allows a lot of guess work to become perfection. Don’t try to make the perfect cut the first time. Go slowly. A pencil line can always be erased from either the plastic or the contact paper.

Which ever part you choose to make, remember how it’s going to fit into the RF. The ESB part mounts proudly in the RF while the ROTJ part is tucked somewhat. Notice the ROTJ version vertex is just barely inside the RF's underside curve. Reference, reference, reference! If you combine the Hyperdyne kit and the ROTJ clear version, you’ll have to make your own guess as to making the inside[back] cuts since I haven’t made a Jedi version with the Hyperdyne kit yet. Yet don’t anticipate a loose fit for anything…that’s the whole idea, it’s supposed to be tight.

Even if you had this kind of part machined by a custom plastics company, not only might it become very pricey, but I think you might lose some of the finish from hand sanding that makes this piece so believable.

If you do attempt this project, feel free to PM me with questions. It took a lot of experimenting to get this far...I’ve gone through all the R&D so you don’t have to.

**Trooper TK409** · 09-29-2005, 07:28 PM

Wow and Holy Cow! I'm just trying to digest such level of detail AND the fact that you took time to do a tutorial!
That's so cool it's making my tummy hurt.

**dgasser** · 09-29-2005, 07:38 PM

HOLY COW.. That is amazing!!!! Just totally amazing.. I mean crazy amazing.. This has to be one of the best threads in a long time.!!!

...
..
.. did I mention it was amazing?

**Darth Mule** · 09-29-2005, 08:08 PM

I wonder if the bottom piece would look good cast in clear resin. Just a thought

**Nutcore** · 09-29-2005, 09:04 PM

Thanx so much for posting those CADs dude, I'm def gonna get to work on this, so freakin cool.

**SingleSeat** · 09-30-2005, 04:59 AM

Originally Posted by Darth Mule

I wonder if the bottom piece would look good cast in clear resin. Just a thought

I hear you D/Mule, I just don't have much experience with resin. Maybe Nutcore, Marrow Sun, or Bounty's Hunted would be the home of experience with that option -- and a wealth of experience there is. Ehh, better yet, just go ask a Canadian, they all seem to know more than we do

**Nutcore** · 09-30-2005, 09:23 AM

Originally Posted by SingleSeatForever

I hear you D/Mule, I just don't have much experience with resin. Maybe Nutcore, Marrow Sun, or Bounty's Hunted would be the home of experience with that option -- and a wealth of experience there is. Ehh, better yet, just go ask a Canadian, they all seem to know more than we do

I think the pre-casted clear acrylic slab is a much better option, its looks pretty much the same as the screen version, clear resin as I found out and as I've been told by many members is basically impossible to cast without getting airbubbles, unless working in a professional enviorment with respective equipment. Besides the screen version isnt crystal clear anyway, it almost looks exactly like sss.

**Spideyfett** · 09-30-2005, 05:56 PM

SingleSeat...:thumbup :thumbup ...
Just want to say this is one of the best Threads on this Board...

We are very lucky to have you...

**bailey's bandit** · 09-30-2005, 06:23 PM

god if only i had the paitence to do all of this, my hats off to you my friend

**Darth Mule** · 09-30-2005, 06:53 PM

I'm not convinced that the two methods would look much different. I do have a bit of experience with resin-casting. And yes it's difficult to get them bubble free without a vacuum chamber... You can sometimes get one with the microwave. Heat up the mold before pouring. For some reason the heat decreases the chances of bubbling.

Originally Posted by Nutcore

I think the pre-casted clear acrylic slab is a much better option, its looks pretty much the same as the screen version, clear resin as I found out and as I've been told by many members is basically impossible to cast without getting airbubbles, unless working in a professional enviorment with respective equipment. Besides the screen version isnt crystal clear anyway, it almost looks exactly like sss.

**Darth Mule** · 09-30-2005, 06:56 PM

Oh.. And I'm sorry it took me 3 post to mention this, but... That rangefinder is the coolest thing I've seen in months.

**MARROW SUN** · 09-30-2005, 09:13 PM

Originally Posted by SingleSeatForever

I hear you D/Mule, I just don't have much experience with resin. Maybe Nutcore, Marrow Sun, or Bounty's Hunted would be the home of experience with that option -- and a wealth of experience there is. Ehh, better yet, just go ask a Canadian, they all seem to know more than we do

I don't know if all Canadian's know better but there is definatly alot of talent per capita here on the TDH.

It is very easy to cast up the little clear insert, but the tricky part is taking out the bubbles, something I've never been too concerned over. The 2 things that could to be done are; 1)evacuate the air from the resin using a vacuum chamber 2) agitate the mold with vibration to free the bubbles to the surface.

If you want to try to make a mold feel free to PM me for more details on casting.

**Dentedarmor** · 10-01-2005, 01:07 AM

You..you sir have amazing talent! I could never do anything As detailed and excellent as this! You must be so proud of your RF its the most advanced out there!.....I think you should name it :o

lol great work

**RBF** · 10-01-2005, 03:27 AM

ever heard about overkill?? ow wait... that's not a word in the Fett dictionary

awesome!

**SingleSeat** · 10-01-2005, 11:00 AM

Originally Posted by Spideyfett

SingleSeat...:thumbup :thumbup ...
Just want to say this is one of the best Threads on this Board...

We are very lucky to have you...

Woa, thanks Spidey, and thanks to all for the enthusiasm and commentary. And thanks Marrow for jumping in with expert info! bailey's b, you blew your first post on me, I'm flattered. I hope this helps everyone make a great Fett! More updates are coming folks...

**SingleSeat** · 10-01-2005, 11:05 AM

...And a separate post for Darth Mule since he likes posting a lot

Thanks. We really should explore all possibilities to making this suit a reality.

**Kissker** · 10-28-2005, 02:41 PM

holy **** you beat me to it, althought you hit some topics i hadnt even thought of, like using the clear acylic 1" sheet.. i was just going to use a lense.. but i think your way will show better.... DRAT ON YOU! but thanks for the tutorial its going to make everything a bunch easier. oh well.. long as no one beats me to my metroid costume idea i wont be tooo dissapointed and depressed.

**wizardofflight** · 10-28-2005, 03:06 PM

This a great thread thank you for sharing your adventure. Any chance you will be able to post drawings for the body of the rangefinder?

Alan

**Saturniid19** · 10-28-2005, 04:51 PM

Anyone else think this thread needs a "sticky"??!!!

Wowza. :thumbup

**Kissker** · 10-28-2005, 04:53 PM

this thing needs a sticky, a massive icon and a "WOW" button. lol.

**SingleSeat** · 10-28-2005, 07:13 PM

Hold tight Fett's. Things are heating up in real life so I haven't been around here as much as I'd like, and the drafts are still hanging. In the mean time, I would encourage everyone out there to tear into this project on their own...it's not like my word is the RF gospel. I have full confidence in you to complete this...and we're all counting on you.

**SingleSeat** · 11-08-2005, 06:16 PM

Last but not least….the final diagram.
Each piece is labeled with a letter to indicate order of assembly. The final piece “G” has no solid dimensions associated with it since this piece will most likely have to be cut to fit (start over-sized, then work your way down with it) from any minute errors that accumulate. The next to last part, “F,” which is the outside wall, is also a part that may take some refinement. Expect the front wall, “C” to cant inwards and contact the clear part. Depending on how your work turns out, “C” may require an additional shim of .030” styrene on the inside to make a good fit along the whole length along the clear part. However, a big point I’d like to make is that on so many resin RF’s I see out there, the line I’ve highlighted below is a blocky vertical line (perpendicular to the horizon). From my reference material, this is not the case so you can see the associated angles in the diagram. Also, sealing and sanding this side takes great care so as not to turn it into a vertical line by accident. In parenthesis are the sheet thicknesses, but remember to go to a thinner sheet on “E” if going ROTJ style. As always, these dimensions are just a guess and I hope they’re close…if anything they should work well with a Mystery scaled helmet.

One last lesson. If you are considering building this thing and casting it…good luck…that goes against the whole design and you’ll probably have to glue the clear part in and sacrifice a lot of accuracy as well as functionality. Besides, it’s not that hard…

Good luck Fetts!

**judge_hellfast** · 11-08-2005, 07:49 PM

This is so awesome. I'm going to try my hand at crafting one for my ARC Trooper Helmet. Thanks for such a great tutorial SingleSeat.

**SingleSeat** · 11-09-2005, 04:01 PM

My pleasure Judge. Great idea, I haven't thought of that one. Go with your bad self!

**Kivas** · 11-29-2005, 01:32 PM

That is simply amazing. The amount of creativity clearly shows the passion for detail you posses.

I don't have my Jango Ref cd as yet( and will be taking a close look).. but was also wondering as another poster did .. is this applicable to Jango?

**arkkien** · 11-29-2005, 01:51 PM

I agree, this thread definately needs a sticky.

**Ripcode** · 12-06-2005, 08:26 AM

Sweet!

Where does one get a block of acrylic??

**SingleSeat** · 12-07-2005, 11:24 AM

Thanks again for the words folks! I'm not sure what "sticky" criteria is, maybe the mods could weigh in. You can get said acrylic from a plastics supply company. I've seen many online, but if you can, I'd stay local to be sure you know what you're getting. If anyone's tried this yet, I'd love to see the pics! Post 'em baby!

**Prymer13** · 12-07-2005, 12:33 PM

DUDE THIS THREAD HAS BEEN UPDATED! WHERE HAVE I BEEN!?

Everything looks like you reached in and yanked off Fett's RF!

If you wanted to get a clearer finish on the acrylic before it was assembled, the edges of a product like that can sometimes be slightly heated with a blowtorch (butane) and it causes any abbrasions, scratches or ships from cutting to be evened-out and given a clear look. (I have done this myself with lexan used for shelving)

**FettOfficer** · 12-07-2005, 05:48 PM

Very sweet indeed...Thanks for the Tutorial. Your work is awesome.

**DL44 Blaster** · 12-07-2005, 06:07 PM

There's something in this thread where every time that I enter it,it locks up my Norton Internet security and says that something is trying to illegally access my computer

It started about a month ago. Anyone have an idea of why or are they having the same problem??

I can access the thread,but the security program will lock out TDH for the next 30 minutes unless I turn it off....that is how I can post in this now.

Sorry to post this,but just wondered if anyone is having any issues.

Every other thread in TDH is fine.

Steve

**kibosh** · 12-07-2005, 06:34 PM

DL,

I run into threads like that every now and then. This one doesn't lock up my NIS though.

No clue what causes it.

**propsculptor** · 01-15-2006, 12:31 AM

Excellent attention to detail guys!!

WOW!!

**SingleSeat** · 01-15-2006, 10:54 AM

Thanks, but there's only one of me

**SOLOCHASER** · 01-17-2006, 11:23 AM

hey SSforever, i gotta say that is amazing! I would like to try following your tutorial, however where does one get a slab of cast acrylic? i think i can get everything else except that.

SingleSeat's Rangefinder (Scratch-built) *pics*

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