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  1. BKFett's Avatar
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    Sep 13, 2010, 10:17 PM - Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #1

    Hello everyone,

    First time poster here,

    I started my costume thinking I could sneak by and make a cool looking costume for cheap, now having learned along the way that its near impossible. I had never made a costume before in my life and had no idea what I was in for. Here is my journey, beginning with the helmet.

    After reading though a few of the cardboard helmet builds I was confident I could construct my own. So after following the tutorial and cutting, wetting and trimming, I ended up with a rough draft that was ready for some puddy, but before starting it I had to try it on. And much to my dismay it was too small, like I couldn't get my chin covered by the bucket. I was really bumbed and desperate to solve the problem. At last I settled on the idea of using the cardboard bucket as a mold for a fiber glass version. Having no experience with any of this before it took a lot of reasearch on how to work with fiberglass. I'll be going through the posts in the near future to clean them up and add more detail to the instructions.
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    Last edited by BKFett; Sep 16, 2010 at 12:57 AM.
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    Sep 13, 2010, 10:29 PM - Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #2

    Here is a step by step guide to using fiberglass on your cardboard helmet

    1. Wrap paper helmet in aluminum foil.
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    Sep 13, 2010, 10:43 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #3

    2 Cut fiberglass mat into strips. The strips applied easiest for me when they were in 1 1/2 in by 5-6 wide. Any longer and you have more bubbles due to the curvature of the dome.
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    3. Next use latex gloves and respirator in well ventilated area.

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    Sep 13, 2010, 10:59 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #4

    4. Mix resin with catalyst. Note: when mixing my on the box instructions said to mix 14 drops of catalyst with one ounce of resin. This is total malarkey that ruined my first batch of resin. Within 10 minutes the substance had turned into a un-plyabe goo putty that then hardened in sec. I recommend mixing small batches of about 100-200 Millimeters with 30 drips of catalyst + or - 5 with judgment. Do not mix all at once.

    This first image is too big of a batch

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    Sep 13, 2010, 11:08 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #5

    6. Then apply your first strip to the dome. note that the mat strip has a strong side and a fluffy side. apply the fluffy side down. Then begin dabbing one corner with resin and then dabbing down the length of the strip giving close attention to the edge. Then off of the edge you went on go across to the oposite edge this will help prevent bubbles. You don't want any bubbles but a few small are ok.
    If you see an air bubble dab at it until its no longer visible.
    7. Try to layer the strips over one another slightly to reenforce them.
    8. after the helmet has had its first coating of fiber glass let it side for about an hour so that it hardens slightly so the strips don't slide around when applying the second layer.
    9 Begin applying the second layer.
    10 After you've made sure there are no blatant air bubbles set it out in the sun to speed its seting time.







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    Sep 13, 2010, 11:22 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #6

    10. After a night or so my helmet was a sturdy as can be. So I cut the T for the visor and removed the paper mold.
    http://www.thedentedhelmet.com

    And as you can see, this one fits on my head







    The mold didn't survive the process unfortunately
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    Sep 14, 2010, 12:36 AM - Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #7

    11. Here are the tools I used when shaping, sorry about the darkness

    Over View


    Masking tape- it helps you define lines on the helmet like the top ridge and saves time sanding later


    Hand sander- helps alot with the rough sanding and making curves on the helmet


    Plane- Normal used to shave wood this is also great for shaping bondo when still in its soft stages


    Rasp- a rough file that is really good at rough sanding for flat or slightly rounded surfaces


    File- this is for the shaping of sharp surfaces like the ridge on the top of the dome or the lines on the ears


    Square- can help you get more accurate and symmetrical curves and lines
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    Sep 14, 2010, 1:16 AM - Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #8

    12. Now for the bondo, this is the most labor intensive part of the project. I had no power tools on hand that could be used for sanding so everything shown is hand crafted.

    Start by mixing one to one and a half Spackles of bondo and just mix a little catalyst in at a time till you get a pinkish consistency. Make sure you have it thoroughly mixed before applying it to the helmet, no gray should be present.













    Now the second coat of bondo, though its hard to tell when the one coat ends and another begins. You basically get to a point in sanding where you think that certin areas need to be be smoother or filled in better and you'll go back and forth between bondoing and sanding.




    Here's an example of me using the masking tape before applying more bondo

    I ended up loosing track of time alot when I worked on this part lol

    This where I started working on the back and forming where the key holes go

    Yes I know that the key holes are supposed to be pushed inside of the helmet but I hadn't accounted for this when I started.





    As you slowly get closer to the shape that you want you should also go up in sand paper grit. I started with 140 and then went to 220 and then finished with 300-400 grit.








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    Sep 14, 2010, 12:12 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #9

    Here's more sanding and shaping. I would recommend wearing a dust mask while sanding because the dust gets pretty fine





    I decided to take a break from the sanding and shaping of the helmet to work on the sanding and shaping of the ears

    The ears are made of balsa wood for its light weight, easy to cut and shape, and for its strength













    I coated the balsa wood pieces with Elmer's wood glue to give it more of a smooth texture and to fill in any dents or mistakes I made. The nice thing about this glue is that its sand able and paint able




    Here's the next piece








    Hers what a piece coated with glue looks like


    And here are the other pieces





    They fit pretty well together


    And the antenna

    I hollowed out the center so I could put some wiring inside for the blinking light



    Unfortunately I could only get 2 of the 4 wires to fit right
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    Sep 15, 2010, 12:34 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #10

    Here's more on the antenna

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    Sep 15, 2010, 12:38 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #11

    The shaping of the key hole

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    Sep 15, 2010, 12:42 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #12

    Here's how the ears look on the helmet

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    Sep 15, 2010, 12:44 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #13

    The final details and sanding before paint

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    Sep 15, 2010, 12:50 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #14

    When I had first started this project I was dreading doing the paint, worried that I might screw it up beyond repair. And while it was a little tricky at time using the masking fluid I ended up finding it the most enjoyable part of the build.

    First here the primer and silver coats

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    Sep 15, 2010, 4:18 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #15

    So now we start with the masking fluid
    Using a toothpick and a small brush I apply the first layer over the silver paint

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    Sep 15, 2010, 11:06 PM - Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #16

    Next I put on a a gray layer and continued masking over it

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    Sep 15, 2010, 11:37 PM - Re: Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #17

    Next I layed down the colors for the cheeks and the back
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    Sep 15, 2010, 11:45 PM - Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #18

    Here I used the masking fluid to coat the areas I have already painted to protect them from the next layer. I don't recommend going this route because if the layer peels off the layer underneith it as well then you have to start over. So I would say to only use masking fluid on the edges of the layers and to use masking tape and newspaper to protect the rest to minimize over peel.

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    Sep 15, 2010, 11:50 PM - Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #19

    Now onto the red layer

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    Sep 16, 2010, 12:02 AM - Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #20

    Sorry I kinda jumped the painting of the dome but its easy forget to take pictures when your working on something. So, here is one of the most useful tools you can buy for the painting. A rubber cement eraser will save you a ton of time and keep your thumbs from blistering like crazy. I ended up modifying one of the erasers for the dremel with decent results if you have steady hands. And here's the end result after I did a few quick touch ups and minor fixes from overpeeling which seemed to cause me quite a bit headache at times . So remember to wait a few hours between painting layers and to always peel slowly and stand by with an x-acto knife if it starts to do something you don't like.


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    Last edited by BKFett; Sep 16, 2010 at 12:09 AM.
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    Sep 16, 2010, 12:06 AM - Scratch Build by BKFett *PIC heavy #21

    So I put the final touches on the paint with the orange kill stripes and gave it a black acrylic wash to give it that really dirty and grimy look.

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    Last edited by BKFett; Sep 16, 2010 at 12:11 AM.

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