RS Zip Zap Mini RC RF Servo Tutorial

Wow :eek: I WAS out of it for too long :lol:

That is just awesome (y)

So the big question is .... how much for a hook up on this (parts and labor) :D

Great job my friend !

:cheers

FP
 
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that is absolutely brilliant! well done!

did you use the toy just because you already had it?
because there are very small simple RF units on evilbay that could likely do the job for you for under $10, would just save all the gutting/modding of the toy to get what you need.
 
that is absolutely brilliant! well done!

did you use the toy just because you already had it?
because there are very small simple RF units on evilbay that could likely do the job for you for under $10, would just save all the gutting/modding of the toy to get what you need.

Thanks! There was actually an old tutorial here on TDH on this from a few years back that really inspired me, but it wasn't detailed on how everything worked. The tutorial was a very basic one page brief summary on the subject. The old tutorial didn't explain the process in detail, and it seems that it assumed the reader is already familiar with electronics and RC technology. So, having the knack on tinkering with electronics and such, I had to try it and write a step-by-step tutorial that everyone can follow.

I used the Zip Zap RC cars coz they are inexpensive and the electronics on both the car and the RC transmitter are both small enough to fit inside the helmet and the left gauntlet. Also, the circuitry was simple enough to modify to accomplish what I need for it to do.

Welcome to TDH and good luck with your Fett quest!
 
First of all: great tutorial. I'm about to start making mine and have a couple of questions. Servo city allows you to get a servo with 90 or 180 degrees of motion, which one would you recommend? Do I have to use 4xAAA batteries or is this going to be determined by which particlular board I'm using?
 
First of all: great tutorial. I'm about to start making mine and have a couple of questions. Servo city allows you to get a servo with 90 or 180 degrees of motion, which one would you recommend? Do I have to use 4xAAA batteries or is this going to be determined by which particlular board I'm using?

Thanks Bossywalker! To answer your question about the servo, you only need to get the basic which is the 90 degrees. You won't need it since you're gonna be gutting out the servo controller anyway.

For batteries, if you will be using the zip zap circuit boards, then yes, you will need them since the circuit runs at 4 volts anymore than that and it will fry the circuit board. If you are gonna be using other RC circuits besides zip zaps, then I suggest using what is required by the manufacturer to run the device.
 
Ah, that makes sense, I kinda forgot that we bypass the controller. I figured that the number of batteries depends on the board. Can't wait to get started. My Bobamaker order arrives next week!! :)
 
Have someone ever tryed to do this on the MR helmet ? Have the MR, but not sure howI will fix it,... I think I will make more dmg then good :facepalm

I'm not sure if it will work coz the stalk mechanism is different on the MR helmet. The base of the stalk has a notch to keep it from coming down, how hard is it to manually lower the stalk considering the notch? If it doesn't take much effort, you can try modding the stalk to fit over the servo spline and see if it'll move without much effort. The servo can handle about 8 lbs. of force to move a 7" long stalk.

Here is the formula:

oz-inch/16 = pounds of force (1" arm) Now, since the BKBT aluminum RF stalk is 6.5 inches long and the servo is rated at 61.1 oz-inch @ 4.8 volts (4 AAA battery pack = 4.8 volts and I'll just round off the stalk length at 7") then our formula should look like this:

61.1/7 = 8.73 pounds of force @ 4.8 volts

This is genius.

Thanks for the compliment.:)
 
Wow, thanks for great tutorial - I put it to use and, YES, it works! Thanks.

One observation - you must be the best soder-er on planet to get the wires on the board not to conect the circuit on the "pads". After overheating and destroying the left side controls, I used the right side with same results, but the "split the pad with an exacto-knife" was the way to go.
 
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