Rogue Studios' ESB Color list & Painting Techniques

COTM, I noticed the acrylic behaves exactly like that; it tends to come out a lot less saturated and even a little less red. If you are going to repaint, do it with the enamel version (Floquil) of Boxcard Red. You should have a lot better results.
If you're just looking to fix up what you have, you might want to try doing some red and black washes, and a semi-gloss clearcoat. I've never tried it, but it might make it a bit closer to what you want.
 
Thanks for the advice, JFJ. Another question I had, the list suggests RLM green for the left ear. On the Testors website, under Polly Scale Military acrylics, there's RLM 72 Green and RLM 73 Green. Will either one work, or is there a specific shade that's more accurate? Also, the list says Euro Dark Green for the back of the helmet, and I'm unable to find that on the Testors site. Anyone know where I could find some?
 
On the results of colors yes no doubt the difference between acrylic and enamel is way diffrent. The main reason to use acrylics over enamels is the real stuff is enamel and finding some of these colors in enamels is tough..so you have to work over the acrylics a little bit and trust me the raw color ain't on the original helmets either it's been worked over too. I know all of the colors used on the helmet but right now I got to keep my mouth shut due to non disclosure. But on the back an alternative that is extremely close is Navy Green (floquil) but finding it is almost impossible.

I will say this the ear on the non rf side is actually very close to Panzer Olive green and I actually used that on the first helmet for MR.
 
I bought the acrylic boxcar, then went to a craft store and bought some bright red acrylic in a bottle. Then I just stated adding and mixing bright red till it got where I wanted it.
 
Yeah thats a great find on the color compare! I've been hunting for something like that for awhile now.

Lee, I am glad to hear you confirm the color on the green ear. I thought it looked a lot like the Panzer Olive and so I custom mixed many greens with that color providing the bulk and am very pleased with how it came out.

(When do we get to see your new helmet!)
 
Go see the updates in original post. I fessed up on a few updates. Not trying to be overly mysterious on this just waiting out MR on getting their stuff out. I used all of the recently discovered stuff on their prototype helmets and some of it was the last of that color I had (I saved some for my helmet). To be honest even knowing the color is no help since some of the colors I have recently discovered since thye have not been made for 20 years.

Lee
 
Thanks for the update... I noticed you put "standing by" for the back of helmet color. I ended up using Ger. RLM 73 Green as by base and adding the cheapo Apple Barrel brand Cobalt Blue and some white till I got it exactly how I wanted it. Giving it that green, with blue tint to it without being "BLUE" per say. More of a Ritch green actualy... but I feel it matches the look of all my color corrected ref pics fairly well, obviously with a light wash it will match even more.
 
Does applying an acrylic clear coat affect the overall color of certain aspects of the base paintjob?

For example. The Boxcar red acrylic goes on the mandible a bit light but when you apply the clear coat does it darken this up a bit or am I wrong? Obviously if that is not the case I'd imagine darkening up the mixture on the airbrush with a little black and or/darker red. If I used enamel it'd be a different story I'm sure but I already bought 3 1oz. bottles of floquil boxcar red :lol:

Thanks for any and all information regarding this :)
 
MacRory said:
Does applying an acrylic clear coat affect the overall color of certain aspects of the base paintjob?

For example. The Boxcar red acrylic goes on the mandible a bit light but when you apply the clear coat does it darken this up a bit or am I wrong? Obviously if that is not the case I'd imagine darkening up the mixture on the airbrush with a little black and or/darker red. If I used enamel it'd be a different story I'm sure but I already bought 3 1oz. bottles of floquil boxcar red :lol:

Thanks for any and all information regarding this :)

It dose tone down the contrast of the colors a bit... My advice is to take the color you are testing and paint it on a 1x1in square peice of paper or bigger, smaller can cause an optical illusion that the color is darker or lighter then it realy is. Start adding lighter or darker colors drop by drop tweeking the color till you get it exactly how you want it. Then appy the clear coat to see what effect it has to the tone of the color. If you think it is still to light or dark, keep tweeking it.
 
Hey, I don't know if anyone has checked here but in the last few months Testors has updated their website substantially and now you can find all of RSB's colors from the previos page just by typing in the name in the search.

It includes all of the Floquil, and MM Military colors. No more running around to hobby stores trying to find everything.
 
Well I ordered a bunch of colors from my local hobby store, and I also ordered some floquil airbrush thinner. Well guess what the Floquil thinner has been discontinued indeffinatally, (how they could discontinue a thinner for a line of paint they sell I have no idea)!!Does anyone know can I use the Model Master Enamel airbrush thinner for the Floquil stuff?
 
Assuming you have what I call an old school airbrush (Paasche etc) the newer airbrush styles are real picky and to me not designed for production work like the old paasches (if you want to paint it like the ILMers did and get like results use a paasche). But floquil out of jar should be fine regardless assuming it's not a pasty old bottle of gunk that has dried over time. I rarely thin my paints to be honest.

Lee
 
Hey Rogue, I'm wondering about the dark scratches on the POG sections. I started using the reefer gray and it really doesn't look right (see picture). What should I be using instead?

DSCN1078.jpg
 
This thread is more than 1 year old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top