RF LED KITS - Thanks!

Hehe yep, thats where I got the idea for the blue one! :)
I think you have 2 green LED's there webchief right? Well, the Blue one is really bright so I think it'll be enough.

I'm going to be working on the 1st circuit today so I can show you guys how it fits in the RF. I'm still debating over the battery issue: which battery to use, and how to mount them inside the RF so that it'll be easy to replace!

I'll let you all know this weekend of my progress :D.

PS: I tried the buzzer....and I don't think it sounds good :p
I made it go off everytime one of the LED's light up but it just sounds like a smoke detector.

Cheers,
Bobo
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The blink rate looks much better Bobo! Nice work. (y)

As far as the light under the RF goes, I'm not sure there is enough evidence one way or another.

Here are a couple still frames from the Slave 1 scene:
fett_inner_light.jpg


The RF square seems to be illuminated pretty consistently. However, I think you could get the same effect just from a light source off camera reflecting off the piece. Also there are no visible tells on the AoSW RF piece that it may be "lightable." But, again, that doesn't mean much. For me, there is just not enough evidence either way.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As for a light being on the underside... its all a matter of preference. There's no proof it exists, just makes sense that it would if it were a real working instrument. It would be some sort of targeting device so I just figured a green LED screen or something. Much like that in the Bounty Hunter PS2 game. Either way, I'm pleased...especially in low light situations, it reflects off my face mask and gives an AWESOME effect.

You go Bobo! :lol:

Bobo, yes, I have two green LEDs installed in mine.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the screencaps, tyler-d! (y)

I think I'm in tyler's camp--not enough evidence to support a "screen" on the RF bottom. A VERY cool effect, but I don't think I'll be needing one in mine. The two red LED's should do just find for me! :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi everyone!

Rex just alerted me to this thread & it seems you guys are wanting some 2 piece hollowed RF sets with clear bottom for the above modification?

This seems to be a great project - congrats Bobo!
And if there would be any interest on the 2 piece hollowed RF, I'll let Rex open an interest thread to accomodate you guys :)

Mardon
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks good Bobo, just one thing to keep in mind when you're working in the space inside the rangefinder is that you've got to leave room to accomodate the stalk going up inside the RF.

For example, my RA stalk goes up almost 3/4" into the RF I have right now.

Only reason I bring it up cuz from what I can tell in the picture, where you've got your batter holder is right about where the stalk would slip into the RF, if I'm looking at the pics right, that is! :)

Jer
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I plan on getting the light on the bottm of the RF. If I don't like the way it looks, I could either cut the LED off or cover it up somehow show it doesn't show. Tough to add it afterwards unless you know what you're doing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey Bobo,
If we could get some measurements, we can make sure of a good fit in the rangefinder.

The MLC Rangefinder & stalk just glue to each other, no indentation, etc.

So,I'm thinking w/ the stalk, I might drill holes in the bottom of the rangefinder, match those up w/ the stalk, bend some brass wire into a "staple", fit it through the rangfinder, into the stalk. This should give it a good solid attachment, adding to simply gluing top of stalk to bottom of rangefinder. Extra strength = Extra security :D

The brass wire, or even piano wire, that stuff is strong, is thin enough not to interfere with the watch battery holder.

I'll try and measure my rangefinder and post the info here.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks damn cool, Bobo! I'm in as long as there is some one that has a spare DP rangefinder for sale. I would like to keep my aluminium stalk:) My clear resin RF is not hollow at all. Anybody? I want those LED's!!

Please Pm me if anybody has one for sale (just the rangefinder, not the stalk)

Thanks,
Mikael
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Liking that latest movie of it working in a RF!

Thinking aloud around the question of whether it'll fit in the MLC and other hollow RF's, I guess you could do the PCB to go in the bucket, then just run the wires up into the RF. Maybe not, there's gonna be 6 wires. Hmmmm. Maybe some RF surgery. Do you think Don Post or Rubies would do a run of Hollow rangefinders for us :lol: Yeah right!

Rex, how do these sizes match up with the MLC RF?

Si
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well, I *could* probably do that if someone wants me to. I'd just have 6 wires running up the stalk. But obviously only for people who have a hollow stalk!

Cheers,
Bobo
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Han Hunter wrote:

Liking that latest movie of it working in a RF!

Rex, how do these sizes match up with the MLC RF?

Si

Hmmm, it might be a bit tricky, as I look at it. The wide end of the opening is just under 3/4" tapering down to 1/2".
There's room interior-wise ( 1 1/2" to 1".) But fitting it inside it could have to result in cutting the top of w/ a ultra-fine bladed jeweler's saw, inserting Bobo's unit, and gluing it back up. Not an especially imposing task...

That's really all I have to go with, Bobo, what's your measurements?

take care all,

-Rex
 
Last edited by a moderator:
:eek: Not too keen on slicing the RF open, I have to say.

Can anything be done? Smaller board, or longer and thinner. Hinged, even :lol:

Over to you, Bobo.

Si
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yessir, I'm reworking the board to be a little smaller! The battery problem is almost solved, but now the size issue will be dealt with.

I'll keep you updated :)

Bobo
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hehehe, *blush* :)

Well, in order to shrink size down but still have really good battery life, here is an option. I'm experimenting with Lithium Ion batteries (coin watch battery) as opposed to the Alkaline one I originally started with.

I realize that the Li-Ion battery lasts alot longer than the Alkaline, so I think I'll stick to one of those. The other issue is the blue LED. It eats alot of power! If you want the LED set to last for VERY long, I suggest you don't get the blue LED in the kit (because it's soo bright). And if it's not included, then the circuit will be smaller since the LED and some resistors (little stiped thingies) will be missing.

Also, I'm experimenting with one 3Volt watch battery as opposed to the 9Volt alkaline battery. In english, this means that the lights only need about 3Volts to work, and therefore I might be able to remove some more resistors (little stiped thingies) since I don't need to limit the 9Volts to be closer to 3Volts (I hope that makes any sense :p). This coin battery has a life of 280mAH (milliAmpHours) Which, for example, that the Blue LED by itself only needs 20mA (milliAmps) to work, so 280/20 = 14 Hours of runtime off this one battery! Which is pretty good...and much better than the Alkaline one.

Anyways, to make things short, if you really want a long lasting battery..I suggest you omit the BLUE LED. But I can replace it with a not so bright green one if you still want the cool screen effect? But if you still want the BLUE LED, it will take up a tad more space, unfortunately!

I'm actually at work right now, and I have all the tools to test a few things out :). So I'll probably be posting more from work today. I hope all this helps!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
That sounds quite promising Bobo!

I think I'd like the green led, now that you mention it. I imagine it will "fill" the opaque part of the rangefinder quite well with light? But, not shine onto the visor itself?

Or,does the blue one just work the best?

Aaaugh, the decisions as we fine-tune our Fett!!!

:lol:

I'm leaning towards sawing my rangefinder open, then installing a hinge on the large side, for easy battery access. That would allow me to glue the opaque bottom to the top.

I used to have some small plastic hinges about, for my 40K conversions, have to see if I still do. For the catch on the opposite end, I'm wondering about a wafer-thin magnet/steel. Would that screw up the electronics?

I'm not all that versed in electronics to know what's the best way!!

Otherwise, I suppose a very small strip of that new Extreme velcro might hold it...

take care all,

-Rex
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This thread is more than 17 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top