Question: Priming the Asok CC

ChrisTheArtist

New Hunter
Could be a noob question but anyway,

Im coming up to painting my Asok CC, I have the humbrols, Rafals templates and viewing the tutorials etc (Welshwarrior, your youtube videos are brilliant. In fact it was those videos that got me into this crazy project :) )

Ive noticed a few people priming their cold cast. Are there any issues with humbrol directly sticking to cold cast? The reason being is the buffed cold cast looks awesome and seems a shame to cover the natural look of metal with metal coloured paint.

Any info would be muchly appreciated.
 
i am by no means an expert... but you should have no problems with paint sticking to the CC.. i'm nearing the end of my paint up. It has been an awesome, and also trying time:D
Have fun .. and post some pics when you can

Justin
 
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once you have the helmet shiny as you would like, mask off the areas where the "metal" is supposed to show through, then prime the rest.
 
i don't know about humbrol primer, i've always used rustoleum automotive primer from a spray can. other people can chime in about that.
 
i would use (if you end up using primer) a primer like saint_nasty is suggesting..i found one at Sherwin Williams that i really like(i look for something that says it is wet sand-able). primers are made to seal and will help hide some imperfections, making a good base for your topcoats .. paint( like the humbrol 147) used to add color, sheen, (in this case matte) and surface protection... if you put a primer down you should get an over all better paint job... but this is just my opinion

Hope this helps
justin
 
When I painted up a TF CC helmet, I did not use a primer. I treated the the coldcast as the 1st paint layer, masked it up and painted the grey. I had no issues with coverage or paint peeling off the coldcast.
 
So I dived in and yes, there is no issue with humbrols sticking to my Asok CC. I began with the backpanels and painted the dome which I'll show. Its surprising how much you can see a proper Fett helmet once you peel the masking off the cat scratch and dent.


tdh.jpg
 
Thanks

I think I might start over though. I had the psi up to high on my new compressor and perhaps not enough thinner although the consistency was good. Anyway the paint was drying before it hit the helmet and was left with a sandy texture which made the kill stripes look very average.

I paint and draw portraits but this is usually with oil and a brush so my airbrushing technique needs a little improvement and a better feel for my equipment.

Anyway. Its all down to experience and I will make it better this time.
 
I did prime mine, and lesson learned, don't use any other "silver" paint on top of the primer from a rattlecan! I went through a few peeling issues, and redos in the first steps including a complete repainting of the back panels! The Humbrol Silver is perfect, and works well with the other paints.

Also, for some of the larger areas, or more predominant colors (grey 67, 127, and silver 11), at least 2-3 cans I found worked well.
 
@Jigglenomicom 1 and a half 14ml tins covered the dome and mandibles.

@Commcando the humbrols seem to stick well enough. No flaking chipping etc. I tested a bit with my fingernail and seemed ok. A good satin or dull coat at the end should work well enough I assume.
 
@Jigglenomicom 1 and a half 14ml tins covered the dome and mandibles.

@Commcando the humbrols seem to stick well enough. No flaking chipping etc. I tested a bit with my fingernail and seemed ok. A good satin or dull coat at the end should work well enough I assume.

Great to know for next time, just won't be using a rattlecan silver!
 
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