One last wafer thin ESB paint job...

Originally Posted by terminal fettler

Sounds like i should prep the spare room for a visit from you and your wife!...

DUDE LMAO!!!

46. gently buff the entire helmet with 0000 wire wool. This smoothes the surface slightly and brings the colours together. This also gives a flat surface for the weathering process...
47. 'super detail' the upper R/H mandible area with grey, purple and red, a separate mask for each colour. Masking tape off the general area and pick out the detail with liquid mask, outline with a pencil first...
48. I use a stencil to outline the kill stripes between each layer, this allows for some movement to aline the details...

G, could you maybe put a little more attention to detail in this lid......

:thumbup:thumbup:thumbup:

Frakkin' awesome!

you suck, Dave...your helmet sucks, and i am going to do a better job on mine!! well, i am going to try, anyways... Garrett, fantastic work as usual, brother!

Originally Posted by FettDad

you suck, Dave...your helmet sucks, and i am going to do a better job on mine!! well, i am going to try, anyways... Garrett, fantastic work as usual, brother!

Maybe if you got away from the fingerpaints D....hahah jk buddy.

Originally Posted by terminal fettler

46. gently buff the entire helmet with 0000 wire wool. This smoothes the surface slightly and brings the colours together. This also gives a flat surface for the weathering process...
47. 'super detail' the upper R/H mandible area with grey, purple and red, a separate mask for each colour. Masking tape off the general area and pick out the detail with liquid mask, outline with a pencil first...
48. I use a stencil to outline the kill stripes between each layer, this allows for some movement to aline the details...

looking hot
the purple you used, does it get toned down during the weathering process?
I've see other use a more maroon type of purple.

like the use of the stencil for the kill stripes.
never thought of doing it that way.

Jason

The weathering process i intend to use involves grey,brown and black airbrushing layers. This will have some effect on the finished colour. I'm also going by the AOSW reference pics, so here's a comparison shot...

i see what you mean.
but to me it still looks a bit more red,
as you said with weathering the colour will change.

Great work as always, can't wait to see this finished

Originally Posted by aero

i see what you mean.
but to me it still looks a bit more red,
as you said with weathering the colour will change.

Great work as always, can't wait to see this finished

Had a good hard look and i do see what you mean....

49. outline kill stripes with stencil and white pencil, masking tape and liquid mask off the kill stripes.
50. airbrush yellow no.154 fade gently to orange no.82 towards the rear of the helmet.
51. start to scratch in the key details around the helmet with compass point...

Wow, that's amazing. I want to do it that way but I'm afraid of doing it layered


Your H#73 is a perfect red! Mine was more pink

Your H#73 is a perfect red! Mine was more pink [/QUOTE]

Hmmm... i've heard that from a couple of people. I always do test strips of the colour mixes, i have also found that dropping the pressure on the compressor gives a smoother application, if the surface ends up grainy from paint build up this can change the hew of the colour. I always buff the surface when fully dry with wire wool which also seems to help to deepen the tones...

Killer Kill Stripes....yep I said it.

Awesome work Garrett, this step by step process along with the up close detail pics of the helmet will really help me out come time to paint it. Can't wait to see the weathering!

great pics of the weathering it looks spectacular. I am looking to build my own helmet using an old DP to compare, but it doesn't have the extreme wear and weathering. I want the most accurate. Thanks for the pics.

52. start to weather helmet using no.s black 33, white 34, grey 32, brown 62 and a white and dark brown water soluble pencil...

SIIIIIIIIIICK!!!!!!!!!

Simply amazing work, Garrett.

Absolutely fantastic Garrett!

Thanks! Almost there with this paint job, it's only taken me 4 months so far......

I just realized everyone has nice professional, comments and mine are like SICK, Killer Kill stripes, B.A.

SICK!

HAHAHAH

Garrett, it's really bad form taking pics of the archive helmet and trying to pass them off as your own work! Tsk tsk. . .



You just keep getting better and better. :thumbup

Please, can you do a list with the colours? I'm a bit lost because you said you have used gray # 27 for dome, but also for mandibles, but they look completly diferent

Originally Posted by KaanE

Please, can you do a list with the colours? I'm a bit lost because you said you have used gray # 27 for dome, but also for mandibles, but they look completly diferent

The grey no. 27 is only used to pick out lighter grey areas in, and on the edge of the dent, these details are then liquid masked before the slightly darker grey no. 79 is airbrushed on the dome and lower cheek areas...The grey on the mandibles and trim is grey no. 27...

Originally Posted by terminal fettler

The grey no. 27 is only used to pick out lighter grey areas in, and on the edge of the dent, these details are then liquid masked before the slightly darker grey no. 79 is airbrushed on the dome and lower cheek areas...The grey on the mandibles and trim is grey no. 27...

Ok, now I'm getting it

Thank you TF

absolutely amazing!! so jealous of his work, and so jealous Dave that this is yours...this paint up is BA!! SIIIIICK!!!

Its so INCREDIBLY SWEET!

Great work man!

Reminds me of xmas morning. lol! GREAT job buddy!

Frakkin' Spectacular!

TF dude!!You got mad skills on these ESB lids.My hat is off to ya.Awesome!!!!

Thanks for all the kind comments! As for mad skills? Just a lot of time looking at reference pictures and experimenting with techniques and colours...still room for improvement!...

very nice, TF!!!!! i see you say there is room for improvement, i would disargree. i think it is close to perfect.

Man, that's just fantastic. :thumbup

Those syncronized swimming lessons cut into the progress also....

Originally Posted by terminal fettler

Thanks for all the kind comments! As for mad skills? Just a lot of time looking at reference pictures and experimenting with techniques and colours...still room for improvement!...

Hi Garrett, I was wondering if you could post your kill stripe dimensions. I've laid out a masking tape guide on my helmet, but it doesn't look right.

I guess I need the height and width of your stencil, the distance the stripes are apart from one another, and the distance above the red band. Do you start on the left one , right one, or middle ? I tried to line up the 7th stripe using the center line of the ear as a guide, but it looks off on one end or the other.

I have a WIP thread for my helmet, but after looking over this tutorial, I'm going to re-do my back panels yet again. The way you have it broken down helps a lot.

Thanks for any assistance, I hope all is well,

Tim

I've been sitting here flipping between AoSW reference pics and your finished pictures....your helmet is a mirror image of the original! This is absolutely amazing! Great work!!!

Kody

Originally Posted by 22ssplt

Those syncronized swimming lessons cut into the progress also....

Hey Dave! You promised you wouldn't mention that...

p.s. How's the ballet coming along? Did you find some tights small enough to fit you in the end?

Originally Posted by Timmer

Hi Garrett, I was wondering if you could post your kill stripe dimensions. I've laid out a masking tape guide on my helmet, but it doesn't look right.

I guess I need the height and width of your stencil, the distance the stripes are apart from one another, and the distance above the red band. Do you start on the left one , right one, or middle ? I tried to line up the 7th stripe using the center line of the ear as a guide, but it looks off on one end or the other.

I have a WIP thread for my helmet, but after looking over this tutorial, I'm going to re-do my back panels yet again. The way you have it broken down helps a lot.

Thanks for any assistance, I hope all is well,

Tim

Hi Tim, here's a sketch of the stencil and dimensions. I used clear plastic as you can line up the layered details below. The bottom of the stencil sits on the brow. I start by adding the first kill stripe below the dent, the one above the corner of the t visor (no. 4) No. 9 which is almost in line with the edge of the trim behind the L/H ear and no. 14, the last kill stripe. Once you're happy with the position of these stripes, just add the ones in between, the spacing varies ever so slightly by the odd mm here and there but you would never know...I then masking tape around the edge, using two thin strips between kill stripes that over lap to take up any differences, use liquid mask for the missing parts and scuff the masking tape with a sharp knife to achieve the bleed effect...
Hope this helps...

I did Big G! I guess X.S stands for extra snug huh? Lol

Originally Posted by terminal fettler

Hey Dave! You promised you wouldn't mention that...

p.s. How's the ballet coming along? Did you find some tights small enough to fit you in the end?

Thanks so much Garrett ! I'm also re-painting my back panels per your guide. It's not 100 % match, but it will look much better than my previous attempt.

I hope all is well, good to hear from you too,

thanks,
Tim

i know everyone else has said this at least once....but this is excellent work!

People wonder where TF got his crazy awesome artistic skills??? I have found the origin.....an old training pic from his college days.

Originally Posted by 22ssplt

People wonder where TF got his crazy awesome artistic skills??? I have found the origin.....an old training pic from his college days.

I TF is one of these girls, I want to meet her

Well TF kinda got hosed. The camera man cut him out. He's pointman.

Originally Posted by 22ssplt

Well TF kinda got hosed. The camera man cut him out. He's pointman.

I'm disappointed

No Dave, i'm in the shot, i'm just submerged...it's a long time since i made six ladies smile at once...
By the way, glad to see your favoured attire is making a come back!

Originally Posted by terminal fettler

No Dave, i'm in the shot, i'm just submerged...it's a long time since i made six ladies smile at once...

That's the funniest thing I've read in a few months.

Dude im rolling!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Hahahaha! Nice!!

Hi cr4nky, the 78+159 mix is normally 1:1 though i think slightly more 159 should be added to taste (not literally of course) The brush i use isnt a brush but a silicone shaper: 0 angle chisel soft colour shaper by Royal Sovereign ltd UK. The application is much easier and finer detailing can be achieved, also no clogging brush bristles! The primer is a standard acrylic based auto primer in a can. I use the Humbrol enamel thinner approx 2:1 paint to thinners...Hope this helps and i look forward to your progress thread when you receive your helmet!

thanks bro
that clears out a lot for me. Just waiting on whether they will ship enmels to me or not from the states...

Hey cr4nky, why don´t you let them be shipped to you from GB or germany? We have those colors here too. Wouldn´t it be cheaper to norway?

One shop you could try: http://www.moduni.com

I´ll keep on looking for others too. More to come.

That's looking fabulous. May I ask what make of helmet that is? Yours?

Do you know if white spirit can be used as thinner with Humbrol?

Originally Posted by NoHumorMan

That's looking fabulous. May I ask what make of helmet that is? Yours?

Cheers...Its a cast from my scratch build from a couple of years ago...

Originally Posted by cr4nky

Do you know if white spirit can be used as thinner with Humbrol?

You could use white spirit, not sure how good the results would be, i use Humbrol thinners approximately 2:1 paint to thinners. I save money by cleaning/soaking my equipment in white spirits...

KK.

Thanks

How long do you let the paint cure for after application before you start to outline and mask? I know they say you should wait 6 hours before recoating and 24 hours for it to fully cure.

Originally Posted by cr4nky

How long do you let the paint cure for after application before you start to outline and mask? I know they say you should wait 6 hours before recoating and 24 hours for it to fully cure.

Spot on; i wait 24 hours before i outline and mask...I normally apply 2-3 coats by airbrush, touch dry between each coat...

Originally Posted by terminal fettler

ESB 100% layered Humbrol colour list:

1. white primer
2. off white base coat 147
3. buff gently with 0000 wire wool
4. mask entire helmet except L/H ear
5. spray red 60 on L/H ear
6. liquid mask red damage on L/H ear
7. spray grey 28 on L/H ear
8. remove red liquid mask
9. liquid mask red and grey damage on L/H ear
10. mix greens 78+159, then spray on L/H ear
11. remove all masking from helmet
12. mask L/H ear
13. liquid mask off white on helmet as per ref pics
14. spray silver 11onto helmet
15. Liquid mask silver and off white damage all over helmet
16. spray grey 79 all over helmet, spray grey 140 onto mandibles and trim to lighten slightly
17. remove liquid mask, lightly buff with 000 wire wool
18. masking tape whole helmet except mandibles/trim
19. Liquid mask silver and grey areas on mandibles/trim
20. spray purple (73+104 approx. 2:3 ratio) onto mandibles and trim
21. remove silver/grey liquid mask on mandibles and trim
22. liquid mask silver, grey and purple areas on mandibles and trim
23. spray red 73 onto mandibles and trim
24. remove liquid mask on mandibles and trim, lightly buff with 0000 wire wool
25. mask mandibles and trim
26. liquid mask silver and grey on upper cheeks then spray black 33.
27. remove mask on dome and lower cheeks then mask upper cheeks
28. liquid mask silver and grey damage on dome and lower cheeks
29. spray green 78 on dome and lower cheeks, lightly buff with 0000 wire wool, mask helmet except back panels
30. liquid mask silver and grey on back panels, spray beige, 28+103
31. remove liquid mask on back panels
32. mask silver, grey and beige on back panels ,spray green ,76+96
33. remove liquid mask from back panels
34. mask kill stripes (tape and liquid), 154 fade to 82
35. dent powder burn, 33+72 and a bit of 62
also around edge of back and lower cheeks, very lightly
36. liquid mask detail on R/H ear spray sand 93
37. scuff marks between dent and kill stripes satin black 85, use old fine brush cut to a stump
38. masking tape and liquid mask R/H ear decal, spray white 34
39. masking tape white arc on R/H ear decal, spray satin black 85
40. brighter red detail on R/H upper mandible area masked off seperately red 60 darkened slightly with red 73
41. grime in arrows, around ears and on top of mandible/ dome join, 93 mixed thin with white spirit
42. yellow glue blobs on back and side of dome, windsor and newton ink sunshine yellow, apply in layers with silicone brush
43. spray brown 62 fine/coarse splatter on R/H side of helmet and R/H ear and splatter beige 103 onto mandibles as per reference pics
44. seal entire helmet with 3-4 thin coats of satin coat
45. have a cup of tea and admire your work...

Step 45 is optional, feel free to replace tea with coffee or beer...

wheres the photo for step 45?

Originally Posted by terminal fettler

Cheers...Its a cast from my scratch build from a couple of years ago...

Sweet. Would it be possible to get some more info on that as it looks super sweet?

You could pm me, so we don't litter this fine thread with my inquiries! .)

Originally Posted by aero

wheres the photo for step 45?

Look a little harder! This step is illustrated in my profile pic...

I was just wondering. How does the green mix for the left ear compare to the POG from the Rogues studios list? Do you know?

Originally Posted by cr4nky

I was just wondering. How does the green mix for the left ear compare to the POG from the Rogues studios list? Do you know?

I've no idea how these colours compare, i went off of the AOSW pics and the screen captures from ESB. I now mix 78+159 1:1 and this seems a close colour to me...the weathering is important on this ear also, i mist/splatter a dark sand colour no.93...seems to be mostly on the leading edge of the ear...

Sounds great. As I told my garrison mate, as long as the green is close to the original the difference after all the weathering and washes won't really be that big.

Thanks mate.

Some of the best paint work I've seen in a reeeally long time.
Amazed at your work T.F.

why in the world is this thread not a sticky?>????!?!?!?!?!?!!!!????????????



ART??

Agreed...

I third that. TF has set the standard and keeps raising the bar....

I looked at this very helmet today getting ready for a troop. Im just s amazed as when he finished and shipped it to me. Thanks again BIG G!

Please someone make this a sticky......??? anyone?

THANK YOU.

This is amazing work. and thank you for the step by step. very helpful

I plan on using this tutorial and am in the process of purchasing my supplies. I would like to purchase all the paints needed at one time.

Q - Which paints will I need multiple bottles of? And suggestion of amount to finish the job. (I don't want to run out of something half way through and have to wait on a purchase/shipping etc.)

Thanks

Just noticed your post above, sorry. You can get away with using two tins for the main colours... Just updated the first post with some slight colour tweaks...

I know it's been said before, but this thread is freakin' awesome...I'm in Australia and it's saved me so much time and effort, that saying thanks just seems such an understatement... but here goes anyway.

THANKS GUYS!!!!

STill one of the best paintjobs I have ever seen... I regret 110% selling my bucket :'( Love your work TF

El1te

TF , you said you used red 73 on the visor mandible area, i dont know if there is an other humbrol colour range , but the 73 i ve got is almost purple , ? has any one else had this isue ,
any way this is a great threed

WOW this is a great thread. Thanks to everyone for all the great info it is very helpful. I doubt my vote counts but I vote for sticky as well.

Originally Posted by jinto

TF , you said you used red 73 on the visor mandible area, i dont know if there is an other humbrol colour range , but the 73 i ve got is almost purple , ? has any one else had this isue ,
any way this is a great threed

Theres deffinately purple under the maroon jinto

No i mean the colour 73 , that i have is a wine purple red, is this somee thing any one else has come across

ahhhh i dunno bud do a color chart to see on spare plastic

Done, thats what made me ask in the first place ,Doesnt really mater , though im getting tips im not using the same colour list or order that TF did ( though im starting to think i should have)

Well send me a PM with a pic maybe can help u out...I know the polyscale colors not humbrol

Originally Posted by jinto

TF , you said you used red 73 on the visor mandible area, i dont know if there is an other humbrol colour range , but the 73 i ve got is almost purple , ? has any one else had this isue ,
any way this is a great threed

Hi Jinto, 73 is the colour I use for the red on the mandibles. When you do your colour swatches, make sure they are over the underlying colours, this will ultimately effect the result. Also application and thickness can have an effect. The final buff with 0000 wire wool gives this colour the correct hue in my opinion...
G.

Maybe he has a different mix in Australia? But deffinately everything u also said is true about the other colors effecting the hue your eye see's. But I think Jinto knows to layer it...BTW TF, Im finally getting finished on my first quality ESB paint up. It all started when I saw this thread almsot two years ago when I was a lurker. Thanks again for this awesome thread.

beautifull work

Originally Posted by jinto

Done, thats what made me ask in the first place ,Doesnt really mater , though im getting tips im not using the same colour list or order that TF did ( though im starting to think i should have)

I bought every colour that humbrol do that remotely resembles the ESB colour scheme, although it's only how I see it, the colour list should give you the best starting point for using humbrols, when you do your test strips you just need to tweak the colours as you see fit...

Fair play though TF, this is a great thread. It like my Bible for the ESB paintjob

I also found that mine was a little dark, yet different light can also affect the colour IMO. But rubbing it down with 0000 wire wool like G said also affects the final colour.

Thanx TF , I did the same thing, i bought every green red purlpe bayesh gray and black ,
I ve basicly just gone by eye , but its good to have a refrence ,
With the 73 it is positively no 2 ways about it not red the colour is called wine
i think F4R(thanx for the offer ill take u up on that once i put this down thE shapers) is right they may be dIfrent from aus to the UK
the reds that are red ,not blue red , purple red ,brick red brown red, are called 60, 132, 174 these were the only real reds do any of those numbers look right to you TF

I would be interested to see how your 73 came out, any images of your test strips you can post? The other reds won't work, red 60 for example is a bright red, good for the L/H ear and as an extra layer on the mandibles before the red 73 to pick up the bright red areas...

this is how my red 73 comes out as you can see it is far from yours?

Hmmm, its difficult to tell from that colour test. I always apply my test strips in the manner i intend to use the paint ie airbrushing in this case. If you airbrushed the colour in 2 -3 good layers, once dried tickle it with 0000 wire wool and then add your desired clear coat I think you'll be surprised how differently that colour turns out...