Discussion on New Scratch Helmet within the Boba Fett Helmet forum, part of the Star Wars Original Trilogy Bounty Hunters category; Okay, I have started my new scratch build. I first
Okay, I have started my new scratch build. I first used Alan's templates, printed them out on heavy stock paper and cut those templates out. And then the shopping began! Unfortunately, it is bed time here on the east coast, so tomorrow I will have actual specifics of what I am doing as well as some photos that I have started with. Hopefully the info that I have gathered from so amny sources can help others along who want to scratch build a bucket also!!
Okay, here goes. I started with the templates from WoF and printed them on heavy stock paper. I purchased a lot of materials, Bondo, Fiberglass, X-Acto Knife, 1/4" foam board, Super Glue, etc. etc. I cut out the templates I needed to start the helmet first. Let me just say, I have heard it before on this site and it is true, building your own helmet is rewarding and a lot of fun!
So, after I had my templates, I basically began with the dome pieces and trimmed those out with the X-Acto knife for precision pieces. I formed the dome and used tape to keep it together (which was quite a challenge). Now, to explore all avenues, I took my completed paper dome to multiple stores to try and find a helmet of some type to match the prototype as exact as I could find. I was able to find one for $20. at Toys R Us and have yet to take some pictures (sorry). I am only keeping this as a back-up in case I cannot duplicate or fabricate the dome using my paper template. If anyone has any suggestions on how to go from paper and tape to Bondo and Fiberglass, I would love to hear it. My thought was to take the dome as is and layer on some fiber resin on top and then underneath, maybe a little Bondo here and there and then sand it to perfection. Suggestions? Thoughts?
Next, once I got back home, my kids had expressed disapointment in not purchasing the Hanna Montanna bike helmet (I explained to them what I was going to do with it, and they wanted me to purchase her helmet so that I could - or they could - DESTROY it, with pleasured faces!). Anyway, I took my paper templates and layed them out over my 12" x 48" piece of 2mm Sintra (purchased in two sheets of 4' x 4" each). I then took the X-Acto blade and cut-out, VERY CAREFULLY, the first outer layer of the helmet.
That is where I am at for now, only the really fun stuff next!! Can't wait. Anyone with ideas or input on the Fiber/Bondo idea would be great. Plus, if anyone has taken their completed dome and made a silcone/rubber mold and cast a dome, I would love feedback as eventually, that is what I would like to do.
Eric
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 08:12 PM.
Sorry, I guess I need to shrink the pictures a little!
I have been able to complete some more work. I have now taken general form templates from Alan's files, cut them out and then transferred them onto foam board. Then cut out the foam board and hot glued them together. I hot glued them onto the helmet base first matching up points in the center and side for correct alignment. Then, I glued the dome base using the same aligning method. As I was gluing, I had to move the pieces slightly to line up correctly, once they were hot glued into place, they set perfectly. Now I have a great frame to work off of to create the inner and outer lid surfaces. Has anyone ever used resin and fiber on the inside of a paper dome? If so, how did that work? I assume that I need to strenghten the inside first before using Bondo on the outside?
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 08:01 PM.
This weekend, I went right into using the frame made using Alan's Templates, the results will be in the next entry....
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 08:04 PM.
Once I completed the frame, I took my Sintra sheet and applied it to the shell using duct tape at various points to make sure it molded to the TOP of the frame. I noticed that if you attach it to the top of the frame (the dome bottom), it keeps the flare and round shape at the bottom nicely. Once I finished taping, I heated the "mold" in the oven at 200 deg. for three minutes. Baked my nachos using the same temp, added some slight seasoning....sorry; once the nachos were done, I put the "mold" back in for another 3 minutes. Once it cooled off and my kids and I ate our nachos, I took the Sintra off the frame and had a very nicely shaped lid! I then took three pieces of Sintra and Super Glued them to the back of the lid to make it one piece. Of course this will be changed later on in the process for the key hole slots.
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 07:53 PM.
Now, there is some failure in this project. I tried to experiment a little and used the outer piece on my frame and used the same heating process with very bad results. I think the strips are so thin in some spots that the Sintra just warped from the heat. Unfortunately, it was beyond repair (I did try re-heating the piece and sandwiching it between two cookie sheets to flatten it back out, however, I failed. Sorry to all Mando makers everywhere! That is all for now, I did do some mandible work, but I need to finesse it a little and take some more photos. I will post them tomorrow!
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 07:51 PM.
Okay, moving on. I worked on the mandibles, which by the way, has to be the hardest thing I have worked on so far. They are tough to get into place. Ohld Vart from the Mercs web site has a tutorial on how to build a scratch built helmet where he makes his cheeks with the one piece of Sintra. I chose to use the four piece method. I had found that you can actually mold the Sintra in your hands just by rubbing it up enough from shaping it in your hands, whic was a nice bonus find. Once I had the shaping going, I used duct tape to hold the pieces into place then superglued in between the tape pieces and peeled them off once the glue hardened. Then I followed the seam with more Superglue to reinforce the bond. Now that I have completed this though, both sides, I have noticed my helemt shape is a little off. It is somewhat lopsided. I placed it back onto the frame, upsidedown and I am hoping that it will reshape once I install the helmet piece (that will follow)!
Eric
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 07:49 PM.
Okay, more progress....I was able to take my bike helmet purchased at Toys R Us, it is made by Bell and is actually a child size - 8 year olds. I sanded it down and removed the vinyl cover it had as well as remove the solid styrofoam lining (which I think I may be able to use as a mold later on for a new dome). I then glued it into place. Next up, Bondo and sanding!
Eric
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 07:46 PM.
Okay, some Bondo and sanding done. I basically applied one layer and then sanded it down using 60 grit paper. THen I found a few areas which needed filler, so I applied the second layer of bondo to the lid as well as the cheeks. By the time I got to the cheeks, the Bondo was beginning to harden (if you need a good indicator that you are running out of "work" time, it begins to clump together and is harder to spread). So, I had one cheek smoothed out and ready to sand, while the other is kind of a clumpy mess. Should be okay though, it will all be sanded away and Bondo'd again!
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 07:42 PM.
Starting to shape up great! Excellent job man!
Thanks for the compliment! Really appreciated!
Well, next step, I have not done that mouch, Bondo and sanding takes a WHILE...a great piece of advice to anyone who is making a scratch build, BE PATIENT! Another piece of advice, when you are working with Bondo, make sure you do not apply a lot, it goes on thick and it will be harder to sand it off later. So, be sure to remember that you do not have a lot of time to work with it, it will clump up and it goes on thick - so do not be liberal with it! SO, I have sanded down using 300 grit paper and then re-applied Bondo to trouble spots. Then sanded again. Another point to remember, the mandibles are much better off when you sand them by hand. I tried using the Dremmel to sand them and almost ruined my cheek pieces! Use the paper by hand and BE PATIENT! SO, next up will be more sanding and then application of the outer surface or spraying primer. Not sure which yet.
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 07:37 PM.
I said it once, but I will say it again, this looks excellent!!!
It is far better than my first scratchbuild
Thanks again! Feedback is always good to hear, good or bad!
Moving onto more work, I have decided that in order for me to progress on my lid, I need to focus on the ear pieces so that I can Bondo more spots on the helmet and sand for first primer application. My plan is to build-up the adge pieces for the angle and then sand it down to the correct look using my Roto-Zip with attachment for such work. Then, I can either cast them for a one piece look or try to perfect them with Bondo, filler etc. I super glued the outer layer of Sintra to my lid and found some imperfections that I will need top address, such as some spots do not line up correctly, I placed the tope layer above the T visor at a funny angle by accident (I am going to recover this issue by making the "wavy brow" look), the lid also de-shaped a little; so I went to a craft store and bought the 10" craft ring to re-shape the lid back to where it should be.
Well, that is all for now, got a lot of work to get to!
Eric
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 07:35 PM.
Wow! Nobody else wants to comment on this? Great job on the ears, they are starting to shape up.
Thanks again for the compliment, the ears have ben a little of a pain, but I am trying to manage. I took this next photo so that I could show how they are shaping up. I will call them ears.1, in anticipation of possibly redoing them. I had sanded a little and found it to be a daunting task to align the pieces of sintra. I basically cut out 8 pieces of the "u" shape of the lower ear cap below the range finder, then glued them together for a nice stack to be sanded down to the correct size. But when the sanding was not working as I wanted, I used the X Acto blade to trim the pieces that were sticking out in the wrong places. Unfortunately, I widdled away a little too much and will now have to somehow use some Bondo or Epoxy Putty to build it back up for the correct shape. So, here is the photo of where I am at, I want them to be as close to perfect as I can get so that I can do a mold and cast of them for others who might want them, etc.
Eric
Last edited by kebh020727; 09-19-2008 at 07:30 PM.
Just in case anyone has trouble viewing this thread because I have been an idiot when loading pictures, I have now figured out how to shrink the photos correctly to fit in the page. I can re-do this thread I suppose if people want so that it may be easier to view?
Eric
This is great! I found some 2mm Sintra from a friend who works at a sign shop and I want to make mine out of it! Havn't started with the Sintra but I have put together a cardstock version. I am looking forward to seeing the end result of this one! Is it pretty sturdy at the moment? I was hoping Sintra would be the best. Also, do u just use a hot glue gun to stick the pieces together?
Awesome work!
I've heard people talk about Sintra a lot. Until now I wasn't sure why everyone liked it so much. Dunno if we have it in the UK. Looking very good atm.
Thanks! I have had some issues, minor that they may be, of the helmet losing some shape occasionally. Fortunately, I had the "frame" that I made to help regain the shape. I did purchase a craft ring that I plan on sticking into the base of the helmet. The trick will be placing it in a spot to maintain sturdiness as well as staying clear of the key slots of the rear of the helmet. I have mostly used the Super Glue as opposed to the hot glue. It bonds really, really well and does not "goop up" in spots. There are spots where hot glue does come in handy though. You would have to look back the the tutorial I made to see where I used it. I think when I attached the helmet was one spot.
Eric
Okay, since it is Friday, I was able to do some more work. Now, I can't wait until tomorrow!! I was able to widdle down more of the lower ear cap piece that goes under the range finder. I marked off the angle of the lower piece with a Sharpie and then went to work! Then I sanded it down as best I could and the result is what you see in the picture. Next, I will complete the top rangefinder piece as well as fix some of the imperfections on the lower ear cap piece. Hopefully, I can finish the other ear cap over the weekend!
Eric
Looking good
looks really good!
Is that 11 layers of 2mm sintra to make the earpiece?
I continued with the easr pieces. I cut out parts of the range finder cap using foam board to "build" it up. I cut the same shapes out of the Sintra for a stiff base. Next will be piecing them together and using some Bondo to strengthen them into a solid looking piece. I also started the other ear cap piece. I used all Sintra pieces and found that when I bent the "U" shaped piece into place, it bowed out in the middle and looked a little awkward. So, I cut to strips and Super Glued them into place in the edge of the "U". Now it has good strength to hold the proper form. I did make them a little too wide though so I will trim them down; you can see in one of the photos that it causes the edges of the "U" to go beyond the base piece. SO, a little sanding and trimming and it should be good to go!
More to come later!
Eric
Hi Brent, that is actually eight pieces of 2mm Sintra to form the "upright" and angled edge (one whole piece and then trimmed and sanded to form the angle), then it was glued onto another 2mm piece as the base of the lower ear cap piece.
You got some crazy skillz dude! This is a treat to spectate!Keep it coming
Peter
__________________
"With great power comes great responsibility"
I'm definitely going with Sintra. I'll have to get some foam board as well now.
Going to follow this thread and Antman's. This Forum has changed my life forever...
Hey Brent, your question prompted me to take a look at my lower ear cap again and I noticed that I needed to add another 2mm layer to it. I do not know if that was the intent of your question, but thanks for getting me to look at it again!
Eric
OKay, today was a busy day so I was not able to get as much done as I had wanted; however, I was able to add one layer to the back of my lower ear piece and complete initial construction of the left ear piece. I blocked together five pieces of Sintra and tomorrow I will widdle away and do some more sanding to create the angle of the lower ear piece. These pieces will actually need a little refinement (in my opinion) before they are attached to the helmet. I am also debating about casting the lid and whether I should cast it with the ear caps on or off. I am also debating before attaching them whether I should make a mold of them as well, depending on the final result! Enjoy the photos, any comments or thoughts on today's post, let me know!
Eric
My question about the Sintra layers was only for my benefit once I get to this step... I am no where near there yet but thought it would be good to know when that happens.
I have no idea what order you should do with the helmet and the ear pieces... I hope it goes well for you and you dont wreck your ears. Maybe just use your Sintra ears for a mold... I want to see how you mold these things in photos.
Good luck!
Sorry gang, not much time the last couple of days for scratch building. I was only able to get a couple of things done. I whittled down the left ear cap piece for the proper angle, however I found some imperfections. SO, same as I am going to do with the other two pieces, I need to Bondo them and then sand them into a perfect shape before priming and finally casting a mold. This week I purchased a kit by Allumilite for molding and casting small items (such as ear caps!) - $70, at a local hobby shop here in CT -. I will either add that to this thread or make a new one once I get to it. But, after the weekend, I am working at a local University (Wesleyan) and I may have an opportunity to use some of their shop machines to sand, cut etc. for professional looking results!! COOL!!
More to come soon!
Eric
Your making great progress with this. I've used W.O.F's templates for my sintra bucket. They are so good and the finish was so tight that I've ended up casting it in UPVC resin. Do you intend to cast it? Or is it just going to be a one off? Either way, The use of a cycle helmet for the dome seems to be a good idea, as to make the dome out of 3mm sintra, sand it to shape, blather it in bondo and sand, sand and sand again was a S.O.B to do. Looking forward to see how this turns out
Thanks, appreciate the comments! My goal is to cast it. I need to learn more about doing it though before I get to that point. I have watched a lot of you tube vids and seen multiple web sites on it, but I have not seen someone go from mold to cast in one complete shot. SO, naturally I have a lot of questions. There was a great video on making the 300 helmet, but there was no video I saw on making the actual mold and how to get to the point of casting the helmet. So, I have a lot to learn still. But, yes, that is the ultimate plan. Then, hopefully as I continue with the rest of the costume, I can mold and cast multiple pieces!
Eric
those ear caps look awsome. if you do make casts of the ear caps i would be interested in buying some....i am new here and was wondering where you guys get all the sintra from i can't semm to find any.
I picked mine up at a sign shop called FastSigns here in CT. I am not sure if they have locations in Alabama, but, you can get Sintra at just about any sign shop I believe. It can get pricey though depending upon the thickness. I purchased a 2mm 4' X 8' sheet for $65. and so far I have used a little less than half so far. The Jet Pack will use a lot, I am sure.
Okay, today I decided that it is time to get back to correcting the helmet in preparation for adding a strengthening layer of fiberglass to the inside of the helmet. To do this I need to add the craft ring into the lid. I purchased a 10" and a 12" ring and decided to hack up and slightly bend the 12" into place and see how that works. In the photos that I have, I took before and after so that you can see if there is a difference. Once I have eliminated the irregular shape, I will then hot glue the ring into place and then add the fiberglass.
E
craft ring?
never seen one before, is it basically a metal band?
where did you get them?
ty
-Mad
I bought it at a local craft store here in the US. Called Joanne's Fabric. It is called a craft ring (from what I was told). Some people use them to make "Dreamcatchers". It is a brass ring basically. The tag on the ring gives a web address of www.darice.com. A company from Ohio. The item number on the tag is #17158. Hope that helps!
E
its coming out really good
Today was a Bondo day. I needed to catch up on adding the ear pieces to a solid surface as well as patching up some rough areas on the front as well as the back, and of course the ear pieces themselves. Now I can sand them to perfection! I basically added some bondo under an earpiece and then removed it. I later added more and leveled it out some so that when I am ready, I will attach the ear caps to a level area. My intent with the ear cap for the rangefinder was to try the same approach, but it would not come off and so, I am stuck with it being attached! Which is okay, I kind of like it. However, this may cause a major problem when I try to mold and then cast my helmet later. So, then next challenge is sanding and lots of it!
Okay, ran into some trouble and had to take evasive action. THe ear pieces on the right side did not line up correctly after my "accident" by leaving the upper piece attached to the Bondo for too long. So, I have had to cut it off using a coping saw, and now I will have to add some expoxy putty to the sides to make a correct alignment in preperation for attachment. But, before I do, I will now have to remake one piece of the ear cap since I had to cut it off. Which is okay since I am going to make resin copies of the ear pieces before I attach them. This also works out well since I am planning to make a mold of the helmet before attaching them also. I did some research this wek at a local arts supply store and found the info I need to make a mother mold of my helmet. Once I get there, I will most definitely add that to the thread so people can se how I did it and any mistakes or pitfalls I created that can be avoided! More to come as the weeknd goes on.
E
Well, sorry to those who follow this thread, I have been very busy these days instead of DEVOTING time to my Boba Lid. I have done some work on it when I can. This week so far, I have been able to sand down some spots where there was excess Bondo and it looks okay. I still want to do some more refinement on my ear pieces though before I mold and cast them. You'll see that on the left side, I added that thin layer of Bondo and sanded it flat so there was a more vertical look to the mounting of the ear piece. Then, I was able to cut off the other piece of the ear cap and sand that flat as well for more of a vertical look. I need to re-check the reference picks though for the lower ear piece to make sure I have that mount correct as well. But anywho, here is where I am at. Hopefully more to come this weekend!
My appologies to all who have been watching my thread with interest. I have been occupied recently with many things going on around here and I have not really devoted the time to building my lid. This weekend I tried to get some work done, I have found, as one other scratch builder here once stated, the ear cap pieces are really tricky to get them to line up and look just right. I have spent a lot of time looking at the reference pics and then trying to make adjustments; at times it can be truly frustrating. Maybe my distractions were welcome ones. At any rate, I will be posting more once again as the process comes along, I was able to coat the ear pieces with primer over the weekend and found some spots that need touching up, once that is done I will reveal them and my progress to all.
Eric
Looking Great! Keep at it!
Alan
Wow, you're doing an amazing job so far! The helmet looks sweet!
Great job Eric!
I am curious how it works out afterwards. Your bucket seems to be big ... what are the measures of it?
Manuel
I somehow missed this thread until now. This build is looking awesome.
Thanks to all for the fedback, it is really appreciated. Alan, if it weren't for your templates, I am not sure what my lid would look like at this point, so for the way it looks now, I have your hard work to thank! In regards to the size, I used the templates from Alan and when I printed them, I made sure that the scale was correct before cutting them out. I guess I could take a photo with the lid next to a ruler for scale and then determine if the size is correct or not. I will post the photos tomorrow!
Eric
This is shaping up really nicely! I can't wait to see it in primer!
-C
Looks great so far! Can't wait to see the progress...
Well, here goes...In these photos I show the reworked ear pieces and what they looked like after sparying them with a dark grey primer paint. I will sand them to smooth them out more (I purchased 1000 grit sandpaper for final painting) and then if I really like them and how they turned out, I will cast them with a casting kit I had bought about a month ago (yeah, I got a little behind on things!). I added more bondo to the cheeks and the spots where the ear pieces mount to the sides of the lid. This was needed to correct a minor alignment issue with the right side. Again, smoothing and sanding, sanding and smoothing to get it to my liking. I mentioned it before, the reason I want this to be as close to perfect as I can is so I can mold the helmet and cast it for a one piece - if that works, maybe I will share! Finally, as promised, I took a photo with a ruler from base to top, it appears to be a little under 10". Is that a correct size? did I make a monumental mistake??
Enjoy,
Eric
Nice work
you're makin' me drool... cant wait to see it 100% 1 day i will post when I start mine. I have Alan's templates and I'm gonna do the trash can armor first I think, then the bucket since I think it's the hardest (and most important) part.
Thanks, always appreciated!!
This weekend I was fairly busy getting some work done. I sanded quite a bit and was able to get a smooth finish for once. I had to remove the last bit of Bondo that I had added. I liked how it came out, so.....I decided to hit it with my first coat of primer. Now keep in mind that I still have quite a few steps before finalizing things (key holes, stalk and view finder stalk mount, as well as cutting out the visor - which will happen after I reinforce the inside of the helmet with some resin and fiberglass). So, yeah, still a lot to do. In any event, here you go!
Enoy,
Eric
Wow! That has come along well. It is so nice man. Great job!
Thanks very much!
I have run into something though that I am hoping someone else may have also and has a solution. I noticed that the primer does not mix well with the Bondo? In spots, like the cheeks for instance, there is Bondo and then Sintra in the same area. The Bondo is not really thick here because it was sanded down. But, the primer I used really brings out the Bondo areas a little more than I wanted it to. Will this go away when I actually get to painting? Or did I not sand it enough? Was there some kind of sealer I should have used? Also, I have a lot of small streaks from the sandpaper I used, I thought I had eliminated them with finer grits of sandpaper, but again, the primer really brings it out. Is this something that I need to sand again until they are gone or is there some kind of sealer that can be used to smooth things out more??
Any help is greatly appreciated, especially since I am so close to the end!!
Thanks,
Eric
Excellent job mate. I love the work on this helm. I can honestly say that you helped me out. My first helm looked good, but it wasn't very durable...just seeing some of the technique used (via pictures) really helped me out.
Awesome thread.
WOW! great job so far....I think I need to start over on mine now!
are you saying that the line where the sintra and bondo meet is showing too much? if so, i think that adding a little more bondo in a thin layer over the whole cheek and sanding it smooth will eliminate that problem. i use a spatula, or credit card to put a thin layer over the whole area that needs fixing... if that's not what you want to do, you could just keep working that line by adding a very little bit of bondo over it sanding and repeating until it goes away... working it from its source to the opposite edge.Originally Posted by kebh020727
i think that there's no way to get away from a little more sanding on this project. same with the other problem. more sanding can only help it to look better.
other than what you're stating it looks pretty darn good from where i'm sitting.
good job!!!!!
Where does one find stencils of the Fett helmet?
I think he is saying the roughness of the bondo and sintra is showing through. Here is my suggestion. Sand until you turn blue. Go with 220 first to get the bumps out, move up to 400 and sand that sucker down like you have never sanded before. Then go up to 600, and to finish things off, primer it, wet sand it with 2000 grit, primer it again, feel it for any bumps, wet sand it again. Repeat the wet sanding process if you still can feel tiny imperfections and micro-bumps. When you are all done, primer it up again and start painting.
Just remember that if you want a really smooth finish on your helmet, then IMO sanding is the most crucial key and you should take the most time sanding it down to get it smooth!
You know, that was what I was afraid of, that I would have to use more Bondo and keep sanding, but hey, if I want it to look as real as I can, I have to do what I have to do! Well, you can be assured that there will be more photos and tutorial to go along so that anyone else that has the inspiration to create their own lid, they will see first hand that Bondo and sanding are a Boba crafters best friend!!
You know, that was what I was afraid of, that I would have to use more Bondo and keep sanding, but hey, if I want it to look as real as I can, I have to do what I have to do! Well, you can be assured that there will be more photos and tutorial to go along so that anyone else that has the inspiration to create their own lid, they will see first hand that Bondo and sanding are a Boba crafters best friend!! If anyone has used any other sealer/smoother, please let me know.
Thanks,
Eric
That seems to really be the truth to this scratch building, sanding, sanding and hey - more sanding! I found some 1000 grit paper at a local hobby store, but 2000? I have not seen that high, did you purchase on line or at a local shop? I am hoping that I have not applied the first primer coat too soon, all the sanding that I have to do is going to be difficult from the primer paint "gumming" up the sandpaper. But yes, sounds like my work is still far from over!
Welcome, you will want to check out the TDH Wiki for all your tutorial/template needs! Have Fun!
this is good advice right here.wet sanding is what you want to be doing towards the end to give it that finished smooth, wasn't done with sandpaper look.
and yes, sanding sucks but it is what seperates us from the cavemen!!!
now get to work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
this is good advice right here.wet sanding is what you want to be doing towards the end to give it that finished smooth, wasn't done with sandpaper look.
and yes, sanding sucks but it is what seperates us from the cavemen!!!
now get to work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Will Do!! Oh happy day!!! Sanding!!
this is good advice right here.wet sanding is what you want to be doing towards the end to give it that finished smooth, wasn't done with sandpaper look.
and yes, sanding sucks but it is what seperates us from the cavemen!!!
now get to work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Will Do!! Oh happy day!!! Sanding!!
I have up to 10,000 grit bud.
I got my 2000 at walmart actually. Its made by 3m. Just know that the higher you go up in grits like 1000 and above, then the paper gets more expensive. My projects that do not require a smooth finish like, my custom mando, are rough around the edges, etc. But if you want a professional finish, then it would be best to sand until you turn blue and pass out haha.
For such a nice scratchbuild you have made, it is worth it to sand that much.
looks really good:thumbup
Sorry gang, I have come under hte weather this weekend and have postponed any Boba work for now. Just for informational purposes though, I decided to take a couple of close up pics of the rough areas that I had mentioned in previous entries so that others can see what I am talking about and hopefully avoid these pitfalls. So, here you are! If you have had these spots as well, let me know.
Thanks,
Eric
If you are still looking for 2000 grit paper try the automotive section at Wal-mart or an auto parts store. If Wally World doesn't have it a parts store will.
I think everyone has had those spots when working with bondo. Unless after the bondo cured, they painstaikingly sanded with 10,000 grit. haha.
sa-weet! looking good.
My local Wally Worls is not blessed with even Bondo! Let alone high grit sandpaper. I will try the auto shops though, had not really thought about them. Thanks!
Alright, hopefully I have some luck finding the high grit sandpaper at an auto parts store. I had thought of using my dremmel and the polishing attachments to see how it comes out, anyone tried that method with success??
You wouldnt have much luck polishing that out unless you spend a century with the dremel on and you might get somewhere. In my opinion, If you can only find 1000 then that is good enough for this. No need for any higher. Honestly, it looks so good that Just 220 grit, 400, 600, and 1000 for wetsanding in between coats of primer.
I have begun round one of resanding. I have started with 400 grit paper, I used the wed/dry type and found that when performing the sanding wet, it makes things really smooth! Thanks for all the input guys on the wet sanding or sanding in general. I would recommend to all that you will be more sucessful when taking the time to sand properly! So here are some shots (not really glamorous, but here they are)....Actually, it looks kind of cool in some spots, I may have to revisit this look for a custom job!
Eric
Just remember this. Sand until you turn blue! You will be done sanding when you pass out.
that looks awesome!!keep it up!!!
Nice progress on the bucket!
I am making mine out of 5 gallon paint buckets purchased from Lowe's. I was wondering when is best to apply the mask, before or after constructing the cheeks? In these posts, it looks like the cheeks are constructed using the inner layer before the mask is applied, but I have seen other scratch-builds apply the mask first, then cut out the cheek areas and glue in the cheeks.
Also is it best to construct the dome and bondo it before applying the mask? It seems that is the best way to maintain the lip around the dome.
I suppose it is really up to preferences. It seemed to me that it made the most sense to have the form of the lid first before cutting anything out. That way, the shape that I wanted to achieve would already be set and I would not have to force things to fit into place. Basically, the proper shape was the most important thing for me, so shape first, then cheeks later.
You are correct, I connected the dome to the base first and used the bondo before applying the outer "mask" layer. The proper lip aspect of the outer layer was most important to me there.
Hope that helps!
Thanks for the tips. Due to the material that I'm using, I imagine I will need to do something similar to what you have done to build up a flat surface on which to attach the ear pieces.
I've been constructing the dome using the triangle strips rather than the bike helmet method, but it looks like I will have to trim up some of the pieces in the back a bit to get everything to fit. This material is pretty thick, which will make it sturdy, but it is a bit difficult to work with as far as cutting goes. But considering the buckets are only $5, I'm pretty happy with it so far!
I have started taking pictures of my progress, and I hope to post some pictures soon, but I don't yet have the ability to start a new thread with the new member rules.
Hey guys! I'm new here. You guys really seem like pros at this and I want some advice!
Below is a link to a photo of my helmet. I am a LOT younger than you guys. (12) So, obviously it's not very good....I also made it in like 10 minutes so....
Please, give me some advice!
http://s393.photobucket.com/albums/p...urrent=001.jpg
i_am_fett, why dont you just start a new thread so you dont take over kebh's thread?
Can do. My bad....
Wow man, Nice work
That's looking tight. You should get a nice clean cast from that build up. Very nice work
Okay gang, I have done another round of sanding, this time in the bath tub with running water and wet/dry sandpaper. It has come out really smooth and very nice. Except one issue keeps coming back to "haunt" me. The holes from the helmet on the top (from the bike helmet); I refilled them with bondo and let them set and dry for about 72 hours. When I wet sanded them, the bondo came off and I still have visible indents where the holes once were. So now here is my question/thought: Should I sand down with a heavy grit and risk doing damage to the area or should I try another round of Bondo and sanding. Has anyone else experienced this? Any thoughts???
Thanks,
E
Any pictures?
Are the filled areas just popping off leaving the original helmet holes? If so, I noticed you are using duct tape. Bondo does not stick too well to duct tape. You could have just used pieces of sign material, like less than 1 mm thick, and glued it on, and filled it.
I'd agree with the above poster. Use something else as a backing, even if it is just some sort of cardstock/cardboard. Duct tape doesnt seem to work too well in this situation...hope the damage isnt too bad. =(
impressive. nice work so far can't wait to see the finished bucket!
Actually, the pieces are not popping out, the design of the holes from the inside should prevent movement of the filled in pieces. The issue is that the area when sanded seems to have "sunken" below the original level of the outer shell. When I first applied primer, you could se the outline of the original holes. I added Bondo to those areas and have sanded down again. The issue now is the Bondo has actually "washed" away while doing wet sanding so that there is nothing, or well barely anything, left on top of what was already there. I just want a smooth even shape so that you cannot se the original spots when I apply the primer again. Below is the photo that shows them..... Let me know! I added two photos, one before priming and one after. The one after the priming, it is a little tough to spot them, but in person they are pretty obvious.
E
Sorry, forgot to pinpoint the location for you. If you click on the primered photo and can expand it, you can se the outline of the hole in the center of the strip of light going across the top of the helmet.
Oh I see what you are talking about. Well, for that I would say fill it with that red paste, that you can buy at walmart, I forgot what its called, but it air drys and is perfect for this situation. And it is easy to sand. If that doesnt work, then clean your helmet with water and re apply bondo
Edit- Sorry, I meant, clean your helmet first with water and the apply bondo. Then if that doesnt work buy that filler paste.
Last edited by 987654321a; 11-19-2008 at 04:51 PM.
Okay gang, Boba is back! I feel I have done the best that I can with him after our mishap last weekend. By the way, if you do not know what I am referring to, take a look at my thread titled, "Tradgedy has struck....!" for what had happened. Since the "tumble", I have done a layer of fiberglass. A couple of notes on it, it can get really sticky. If you get some on the outside of the lid, do not panic, you will just need to do a great job of sanding when it is all dry. Also, the strands come off very easily when you apply the resin. Not sure if I was supposed to remove the lose ones as I went, but it added to the mess. There is a mesh type that almost looks like a loosly woven mat of sorts. I wonder if that is any easier to work with? Make sure you add the correct amount of hardener to the mix. I think on the first application I did not add enough and as a result, it did not dry right away and is still a little sticky. On the second coat I made sure I added enough and that seemed to do the trick.
In any event, he seems really solid now, not that I am going to drop him any time soon! But, if there are any other mishaps, I should be good. Now, I also added another bit of Bondo. I cannot get those darn spots from the bike helmet to completely go away. I am trying more bondo again and a different primer spray to see if it will help. Plus, I wanted to add a little more where the cracks were. So, hope everyone enjoys and has a great Thanksgiving, and to our global brothers, find a pub and give thanks for Boba?!
Just a thought. The problem with the bike helmet holes arises because the filler material (bondo or red paste) is less tough than the original plastic. So when you sand the area the filler sands down faster than the bike helmet and you get the dips.
You need to find a filler that is of a similar toughness to the bike helmet. No idea what sort of filler that might be.
I had a similar problem because I used two different types of polyfiller on my bucket.
Really inccredible build! Makes me want to crack out a sintra build. I definately look forward to the completion!
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