Spideyfett
Well-Known Hunter
Thanks guys !
Yes .... yes it isI meant "Razor Seam" ...
Thanks man
Headless ... I will post a little later on how to work this. But yes, from now until the 15th. Details to follow 8)
FP
Call me ASAP!
NEW!! Fettpride Bucket aka "FPH" !!
- Thread starter Spideyfett
- Start date
Call me ASAP!
terminal fettler
Active Hunter
Are you reinforcing the silicone to prevent front/back 'sag' its unclear in your pics, just interested in your process, but it looks like an additional layer of something before your fibre glass jacket...?
Spideyfett
Well-Known Hunter
tubachris85x
Well-Known Hunter
Hmm..so thats how you would cast a two part mold for the helmet. Pouring the silicone must have been a pain on such a curved surface.
What source are you using for the fiberglass?
And where the heck do you learn to sculpt that good?
-tubachris
What source are you using for the fiberglass?
And where the heck do you learn to sculpt that good?
-tubachris
fettpride
Well-Known Hunter
*** !!! Seeker that is toooooooooooooo cool !!!!
Couple of qustions answered ...
TF - Actually, what you're seeing in the pics (which will be explained in greater detail when I post the tuttorial on my site) is cotton T-Shirt material that is applied to the last layer of silicone whilst it's still "tacky", followed by an immediate coat of catalized polyester resin, then a couple of layers of FG for the suport shell. This permanently joins or "marries" the ssilicone, to the FG support jacket. They can never be separated from each other. Therefore when both halves are done this way, they go back together near seamlessly (with all that good registration that is ) and you never get even the slightest creep or sag or movement from your original model. Once demolded form the original model, and put back together for a casting, you end up with the most faithful representation of the original model as possible for a two part mold.
As seen here ....
Tubachris -
The silicone is applied by brush, not poured in this case. It's done in layers actually. In a case like this, I did 6 brushed layers on each half. Giving a total uniform silicone thickness of about 3/16 of an inch, up to a 1/4 of an inch depending on how heavy you apply the brushable silicone (which is thicker for vertical applpications). Less silicone used this way, means less out of pocket expense
Hope this helps. That's all for now on the tutorial, I'll have that going sometime in the near future. We've been needing a good molding/casting Q&A / Tutorial around here for a long time, I figured this would be good enough for a sticky Long as y'all dont go using it against me to recast something (kidding of course)
Thanks for all the comments, more to come soon.
FP
Couple of qustions answered ...
TF - Actually, what you're seeing in the pics (which will be explained in greater detail when I post the tuttorial on my site) is cotton T-Shirt material that is applied to the last layer of silicone whilst it's still "tacky", followed by an immediate coat of catalized polyester resin, then a couple of layers of FG for the suport shell. This permanently joins or "marries" the ssilicone, to the FG support jacket. They can never be separated from each other. Therefore when both halves are done this way, they go back together near seamlessly (with all that good registration that is
) and you never get even the slightest creep or sag or movement from your original model. Once demolded form the original model, and put back together for a casting, you end up with the most faithful representation of the original model as possible for a two part mold.As seen here ....
Tubachris -
The silicone is applied by brush, not poured in this case. It's done in layers actually. In a case like this, I did 6 brushed layers on each half. Giving a total uniform silicone thickness of about 3/16 of an inch, up to a 1/4 of an inch depending on how heavy you apply the brushable silicone (which is thicker for vertical applpications). Less silicone used this way, means less out of pocket expense
Hope this helps. That's all for now on the tutorial, I'll have that going sometime in the near future. We've been needing a good molding/casting Q&A / Tutorial around here for a long time, I figured this would be good enough for a sticky
Long as y'all dont go using it against me to recast something (kidding of course)Thanks for all the comments, more to come soon.
FP
terminal fettler
Active Hunter
Ah, i see, nice way of ensuring each cast is spot on...no sagging of the silicone halves, i'll have to remeber that tip
Silent Man
New Hunter
PM sent! This is looking awesome! I'm also glad it's Spartan approved or I'd have to look elsewhere. Can't go dining in hell in just any helmet!
GrottyFurball
Active Hunter
how do you keep the silicone in between the shells from squishing when you secure them together?
GCNgamer128
Sr Hunter
Great mold! Do you have a price setup yet?
Spideyfett
Well-Known Hunter
If I sold a couple of these to recoup my costs, I say I would let one go for $225 + S/H (standard version). With the Cold cast ears, prolly $250, same terms
For more information, PM me for details. USE FPH as your subject line please.
Great mold! Do you have a price setup yet?
Spideyfett
Well-Known Hunter
Sure!! in the mean time you can paint my new SPARTAN HELMET???please add me to the list, and once i pay for it, please send it directly to spidey for the paint job.
DarthMiller
Well-Known Hunter
looking good FP!!
HeadlessHunter
Well-Known Hunter
Thanks FP, standing by!! :cheers
Jangos kid
Well-Known Hunter
Holey Moley that looks nice!!! I especialy love how u took pics of the casting/mold making process so we can see how these are produced & all the work that is involved!!!! Very cool!!
D
D
Sixxgunn13
Well-Known Hunter
pm sent..
