MY MS2

I've just ordered one too! Can't wait. :love
I have a question for those who've built up fiberglass helmets before.
What's the main reason you guys install the visor prior to painting? Seems like there would be a lot greater chance of messing up the visor when it's installed during all the painting/weathering.
Is there anyone who has waited to install it until after painting?
Just curious about different viewpoints.
Eric
 
superjedi said:
I've just ordered one too! Can't wait. :love
I have a question for those who've built up fiberglass helmets before.
What's the main reason you guys install the visor prior to painting? Seems like there would be a lot greater chance of messing up the visor when it's installed during all the painting/weathering.
Is there anyone who has waited to install it until after painting?
Just curious about different viewpoints.
Eric
FOR ME since I've done four of these...Mainly THREE Reasons:
1. For Durability..there is potential for the Fiberglass to Crack when there is no support in the visor area once cut...That's my biggest reason, because it happened to me TWICE.
2. And as I stated before it can get very messy to try and cut the visor and install after you have painted your bucket..intern poetically ruining your paint job with all the Grabbing while hot glueing or screwing:p , which ever method you choose to use...
3. I've done it this way for three of the four helmets and It's worked out every time...With NO Scratches. Of course I masked with lots of LOW TACK Masking TAPE ON BOTH-SIDES , in and out.

I guess its all on what works for you..
I say try what's easiest for YOU, because I don't think there is a WRONG or Right way on something like this...
Does that help.????
 
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Okay Moving On..

MASKING FLUID...I say NO to mustard...Just my opinion.

THIS IS WHERE THE HIGH RES REFERENCE MATERIAL COMES IN.

This, to me, is the most under-rated steps..
Normally I would draw the the scratches first, but for this I'll just apply it Per the REF PICS with different size paint brushes..I do recommend drawing them on lightly first though.

The fluid does tend to build up on the brush...remove the build up throughout, making sure your brush is pretty clean..This makes each application easier..

The reason I like this stuff is because:
1. It dries fast
2. If you mess up or don't think it looks right then just let it dry and take it right off and reapply.
3. And the detail you can get with this stuff is great.


Masking1.jpg


Masking4.jpg
 
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Thanks Marrow and Spidey!
Now I know I will absolutely install the visor either before or after painting! :lol:
Wait. . . that's not right.
I guess I'll prolly do it before, because of the "support" factor.
Eric
 
Nice pics bud! I tried the 'scratch off' method with a toothpick, and it kept going down to the gelcoat, even after much sanding, priming, chrome, and drying. I've started using liquid mask on most parts now, and I cant wait to see how it turns out for you on the helmet.
 
where do you get the mask, and in what isle?

what stage are you doing first, just the chrome parts that show?
 
Hey Spidey, We met at the Wal-Mart during the 48 hours of SW. I have the same bucket and was about to offer it back up for sale but yours does not look as "tall" as mine does. How did you correct the shape on top? I have not touched mine yet.
MH2.jpg
 
I made 15 in total. 3 for me, 2 for friends and 10 for sale. I've sold all that I've made now. I do believe I remembered to number all the helmet on the inside?! Is yours not numbered? By the way I have someone wanting a MS2 so if you don't want your helmet anymore I have a potential customer that would like it.
 
MS2s are nice wishi could get ahold of one.. lol is it me or doesa solid chrome boba just sound sexah? (i know my ex would love it.. shiny.. and boba) i might chrome one someday for the hell of it. helms lookin good man.
 
bobafett669 said:
Hey Spidey, We met at the Wal-Mart during the 48 hours of SW. I have the same bucket and was about to offer it back up for sale but yours does not look as "tall" as mine does. How did you correct the shape on top? I have not touched mine yet.

Hey:cheers , I should see you at Dallas Comic-Con Too...

I did A LOT of Sanding ...Different Grades of sand paper......No wet sanding. STILL COULD USE a Little MORE.
Those that own one of these know that the thickness of the MS2 is SO MUCH MORE compared to the MS....
Once I started to see VERY Tiny BUBBLES on the top I knew it was time to stop sanding.....I ended up filling them with Bondo though...
AND if you haven't noticed I moved in the Mandibles in to make the visor not So wide and more parallel......With a Heat GUN, (be careful with that, could distort your Helmet)

P.S MARROW I'm # 11
 
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cal196 said:
where do you get the mask, and in what isle?

what stage are you doing first, just the chrome parts that show?

Michael's Arts and Craft...Any Craft's store that has a Water Color Section...
I use Winsor & Newton's "Colourless" Masking Fluid...It's been posted somewhere here before..(y)
 
THE FUN PART...PAINTING.(y)

I want to Say that I use ROGUE STUDIOS (y) stuff as a Guide when it comes to paint selection and methods...It's proven THE MOST ACCURATE. And anyone who has seen his Helmets knows what I'm talking about.

So Before I start Posting All these pics of the Painting Process you need to know what the heck kinda paints to use...It also includes some methods to use. Check it out.(y)

Here's the Link: http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/showthread.php?t=3630&highlight=ROTJ+Paint


HERE ARE JUST A FEW OF THE THINGS I USE TO PAINT WITH...
INVEST IN A GOOD AIRBRUSH.....Or TWO.

S5300010.JPG
 
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Now that we know what we are using to paint with......the Painting.

MASKING with a LOW TACK Tape will allow you to tape right over the masking fliud areas...If it lifts off when it's time to remove then you can always reapply....I LOVE this stuff.
I Mask and paint the DOME and under Cheeks first...as every one seems to do.
I like to use NEWS PRINT to help mask...It bends really easy.

I use Panzer Olive Green right out of the Bottle for the 1st Coat...a little Acrylic thinner if it's too thick.
I apply only 2 to 3 SOLID coats ..Waiting at least 20-30 minutes between coats.

The Panzer Green Color tends to dry DARK.....This is a Good thing because we will then spray a "MIST" of Panzer Green and Ital. C GR MIX. This gives it that "light look" in some areas per the Reference Photos..
The MIST of this mix should not be thick, and Spraying should be a good distance away and low pressure on your Air Brush..a well lighted room will enable you to see the application.

CHECK IT OUT!!

MS2maskgreen1.jpg


MS2maskgreen3.jpg


MS2maskgreen4.jpg
 
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