It just sounds angry to me...notyourtool said:
It just sounds angry to me...notyourtool said:
FYI- If you are thinking about using the Zip Zap method, RadioShack is offering the following two items:
Both for under $4 US. They are in store offers only though. I bought two today and may get more just to stock up. Hope this is useful to anyone.
I got a Cirrus high torque micro servo for about 37 bucks from a local hobby store. With two AA batteries, it hauls the solid resin BKBT rangefinder and aluminum stalk up and down with no complaint.
I have tried two different zip zaps so far. The problem I had is that the servo keeps chattering no matter what I do. If I keep the remote in its original pistol grip case with the rotary switch, it works alright. If I take the transmitter out of the case and try to replace the rotary switch with something I can fit in my gauntlet, it keeps chattering.
Since I am no electronics expert, I was about to break down and buy the hyperdyne kit, when I found a cheap RC car yesterday at KB toys. It was on sale for $3.00. The thing that caught my eye was that the remote has two momentary switches. One for forward and one for reverse.
I tore it up and hooked it up just like the zip zap and eureka!! It worked like a charm. With just two AA's it works awesome. I piggy-backed a couple of wires off of the switches on the transmitter board and conected them to the momentary switches I have in my left gauntlet flamethrower. I ran the power wires through my hose and put the 9 volt in my sleeve where my hoses connect. I also put the antenna in the hose.
So not taking into account the money I wasted on several trips to radio shack, I got this thing to work for 40 bucks.
Perfect! That's the exact same one I used for my last helmet. I wasn't able to find another for my new helmet, so I picked up a a cheapo car that had the basic left/right and forward/reverse controls. I only needed to use one of them, so I might the other to turn on the LEDs in the right gauntlet (which don't aren't on in the movie). I'll take some photos when I start installing that, which should be very soon.
Just to repeat krillindb's advice, if you go with one of the cheaper cars, be very careful and make sure you note where all the wires go. Probably best to unsolder every wire and replace it with a stronger one so you don't have one pop off all of a sudden and you don't know where it goes!
I just looked at this servo at home. It says that it needs 4.8 to 6.0 volts to work. With 2 AA or 2 AAA you only get 3 volts. I am sure that is why I can't get mine to work. As stated before by krillindb, the Zip Zap board can only take 4 volts. I can get my moter to twitch and that is about it.
So, this weekend I am off to a hobby store looking for a servo that can take with only 3 volts or get a box that will hold 4 AAA's and use them to power the servo and 2 AAA's to power the Zip Zap board.
Link to servo.
I'm new to the whole prop making, Mandalorian armor and various other prop making thing, so please bear with me. Since this is my first attempt I thought I'd start inexpensive and see if this is something I want to sink a good deal of the meager amount of money I do have into this hobby-which I seem to have more and more of...Anyway my first helmet is a "deluxe" Rubies, although I don't see much "deluxe" about it. I assume that modifications like the RF servo, cpu fan, headset/microphones etc wouldn't be feasible in the much smaller Rubies helmets and are probably more suited to the larger fiberglass helmets etc, correct? Like I said, this is all new to me so please bear with me...
Your correct - to fit all the "gadgets" inside the helmet, you would need one of the larger ones.
but it depends on your head size - if it's small - the smaller helmets would work.
(in my case - my head is 2x the DP95 size - a bit snug - the MS3 fit's perfect and has room for my servo mech from hyperdyne - even so - the relay is about 2 mm from from head....)
I'm a pretty big guy with a head to match. My current Rubies "deluxe" helmet fits and there's a bit of room inside but very likely it won't be large enough to add everything and the kitchen sink to the helmet, as I intend to do. I even want to run a Camelback's hose from the bladder stashed inside the jet pack (along with any bulky electronics and batteries) into the helmet underneath the armor so I won't have to remove my helmet to drink...
Anyway thanks for letting me know for certain that I was correct in my assumptions about the size of my helmet. I'll sadly have to repay you all with an unending amount of questions concerning getting my Mandalorian armor and persona completed. I'd kind of like to catch some of the many conventions for Star Wars, RPG, PC games, and comics-in full Mando attire...We shall see I suppose. Thanks for your time...
I reckon this is certain proof that size "does" matter, at least in this case...
has anyone figured out a for sure way to make this work? I have tried all methods and nothing is working.
hi guys, need some help, i attached everthing according to gator fetts suggestions and my servo moves only in one direction, once down i can't get the stalk back up. i used a sender and receiver out of an r c car, and wnated to hook it up to a high torgue servo. any help?
never mind i figured it out.
well, since this thread has been brought back from the dead, you might as well tell us what you were doing wrong and what corrected it.
well if you use a servo with those r/c cars some members mentioned that they can't get the servo to work at all or that it jitters. i encountered the same problems. that's because i assumed i would have to use the wires coming from the servo, that was the main problem. i opened the servo to gain access to the little motor inside of it, soldered two wires to it, same way as if it would be the motor in the r/c car. and bingo now the servo travels its full way in both directions smooth and without any problems. so i basically do not use the board inside the servo. i do not have full auto mode, but the servo will be installed in a way that the stalk can't go past the up position and going down you know when to stop, cause you'll see it going down.
the servo did not work because none of the r/c cars shown gave "pulses" to the servo, and the pulse wire "tells" the servo to move to the left or the right (up/down). And using the (+) and (-) wires of the servo only let the servo move in one direction.
so eliminating the supplied wires solved the problem. Hope this explains it well enough.
Besides that, I used a board from a r/c car that was advertised at 4.8 volts but it can easily take 6 volts. So the board and servo in my setup run of 6 volts, the sending unit on 9 volts.