Moveable RF (servo thingy)

I'm new to the whole prop making, Mandalorian armor and various other prop making thing, so please bear with me. Since this is my first attempt I thought I'd start inexpensive and see if this is something I want to sink a good deal of the meager amount of money I do have into this hobby-which I seem to have more and more of...Anyway my first helmet is a "deluxe" Rubies, although I don't see much "deluxe" about it. I assume that modifications like the RF servo, cpu fan, headset/microphones etc wouldn't be feasible in the much smaller Rubies helmets and are probably more suited to the larger fiberglass helmets etc, correct? Like I said, this is all new to me so please bear with me...

Dha Syntir
 
Dha_Syntir said:
I'm new to the whole prop making, Mandalorian armor and various other prop making thing, so please bear with me. Since this is my first attempt I thought I'd start inexpensive and see if this is something I want to sink a good deal of the meager amount of money I do have into this hobby-which I seem to have more and more of...Anyway my first helmet is a "deluxe" Rubies, although I don't see much "deluxe" about it. I assume that modifications like the RF servo, cpu fan, headset/microphones etc wouldn't be feasible in the much smaller Rubies helmets and are probably more suited to the larger fiberglass helmets etc, correct? Like I said, this is all new to me so please bear with me...

Dha Syntir


Your correct - to fit all the "gadgets" inside the helmet, you would need one of the larger ones.

but it depends on your head size - if it's small - the smaller helmets would work.

(in my case - my head is 2x the DP95 size - a bit snug - the MS3 fit's perfect and has room for my servo mech from hyperdyne - even so - the relay is about 2 mm from from head....)
 
I'm a pretty big guy with a head to match. My current Rubies "deluxe" helmet fits and there's a bit of room inside but very likely it won't be large enough to add everything and the kitchen sink to the helmet, as I intend to do. I even want to run a Camelback's hose from the bladder stashed inside the jet pack (along with any bulky electronics and batteries) into the helmet underneath the armor so I won't have to remove my helmet to drink...

Anyway thanks for letting me know for certain that I was correct in my assumptions about the size of my helmet. I'll sadly have to repay you all with an unending amount of questions concerning getting my Mandalorian armor and persona completed. I'd kind of like to catch some of the many conventions for Star Wars, RPG, PC games, and comics-in full Mando attire...We shall see I suppose. Thanks for your time...

I reckon this is certain proof that size "does" matter, at least in this case...

Dha Syntir
 
hi guys, need some help, i attached everthing according to gator fetts suggestions and my servo moves only in one direction, once down i can't get the stalk back up. i used a sender and receiver out of an r c car, and wnated to hook it up to a high torgue servo. any help?
 
well, since this thread has been brought back from the dead, you might as well tell us what you were doing wrong and what corrected it.
 
well, since this thread has been brought back from the dead, you might as well tell us what you were doing wrong and what corrected it.


well if you use a servo with those r/c cars some members mentioned that they can't get the servo to work at all or that it jitters. i encountered the same problems. that's because i assumed i would have to use the wires coming from the servo, that was the main problem. i opened the servo to gain access to the little motor inside of it, soldered two wires to it, same way as if it would be the motor in the r/c car. and bingo now the servo travels its full way in both directions smooth and without any problems. so i basically do not use the board inside the servo. i do not have full auto mode, but the servo will be installed in a way that the stalk can't go past the up position and going down you know when to stop, cause you'll see it going down.
the servo did not work because none of the r/c cars shown gave "pulses" to the servo, and the pulse wire "tells" the servo to move to the left or the right (up/down). And using the (+) and (-) wires of the servo only let the servo move in one direction.
so eliminating the supplied wires solved the problem. Hope this explains it well enough.
Besides that, I used a board from a r/c car that was advertised at 4.8 volts but it can easily take 6 volts. So the board and servo in my setup run of 6 volts, the sending unit on 9 volts.
 
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