Masking fluid + ESB Bucket = ESB in the trashcan

Walteekin25

New Hunter
Ok so I'm trying to do a ESB Paint scheme on this bucket. I'm working on the rear of the helmet you know with the earth color, trace on the damage, mask it, and then paint the dark green over. I'm using Micro Mask btw. Well heres the problem....it never ever works right....I put the mask on and then when it comes time to peel it doesn't come off right of the freaking paint smears all over even after it has dryed. What am I doing wrong?...is there a easier way to do this?

thx
Walt
 
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Ok so I'm trying to do a ESB Paint scheme on this bucket. I'm working on the rear of the helmet you know with the earth color, trace on the damage, mask it, and then paint the dark green over. I'm using Micro Mask btw. Well heres the problem....it never ever works right....I put the mask on and then when it comes time to peel it doesn't come off right of the freaking paint smears all over even after it has dryed. What am I doing wrong?...is there a easier way to do this?

thx
Walt


This is what I do and it has never failed me. Spray your bucket with Krylon Matte Finish, apply the masking fluid (I use Liquid mask from Hobby Lobby), spray another coat of Krylon Matte Finish, paint and peel...no problems. The matte finish gives it that extra layer of protection from peeling anything else.

Wes
 
I've used toothpaste for all my masking, mainly because the only mustard I've got is the good stuff and I don't see the need to waste it. Toothpaste is also thicker so its less likely to run.
 
I've used mustard in the past for my armor and jet pack. Not tried toothpaste, but seems like a pretty good idea. With the mustard I always airbrush or spraypaint with the mustard still wet and a good size glob. The paint makes a skin over the top of it and once the paint is mostly dry you can wipe off the skin and mustard pretty easily with a paper towel. This will probably be the way I do my ESB bucket when I get around to painting it, at least for the big scratches and weathering along with RS's toothpick techniques for the smaller scratches.
 
I've been using Windsor and Newton art masking fluid, when using enamels i've had no problems ( leaving the paint to dry thoroughly over 24 hours) i would imagine water based paints would give the same results...
 
I wouldn't recommend using mustard, especially if you're painting over a silver base coat as it'll stain the silver so that it looks like a dirty gold color. Not terribly appealing to the eye. I just had to strip my armor down and repaint because I used mustard, I was not amused to say the very least. So leave the mustard in the fridge where it belongs and use toothpaste or something that won't potentially make you do the work all over again...

 
I just painted some armor last evening utilizng the masking fluid availbe at Michaels for about $12.00. I sprayed on my first colr, used a heat gun to cure same, the brushed on the fluid. Cured with a heat gun, added more colors, repeating the process. When the last color was cured, I used a pencil eraser, and the stuff came off perfect. Just a suggestion
 
ultra fine primer.... using a clear coat can seal the area but most are acrylic based so if your using any enamils on top it can hender the drying of the paint. works like a champ so you can combine any color or type under the sun
 
ultra fine primer.... using a clear coat can seal the area but most are acrylic based so if your using any enamils on top it can hender the drying of the paint. works like a champ so you can combine any color or type under the sun

Thats what I was thinking, plus the silver coat tends to be a very strong enamel, I have had to toss several suspect cans of silver away and go with aluminum paint because the chrome just didnt do right.
 
This is also what i have been using and i've never had any problems:)


I've been using Windsor and Newton art masking fluid, when using enamels i've had no problems ( leaving the paint to dry thoroughly over 24 hours) i would imagine water based paints would give the same results...
 
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