I know, I know, Its just a DP........
I want to reinforce the inside of my DP95 and was wondering if the F/G resin would "attack" the parent material of this thing.
Thoughts, ideas, ???
Thanks guys,
-Tim-
Discussion on "Glassing" the inside of a DP95 within the Boba Fett Helmet forum, part of the Star Wars Original Trilogy Bounty Hunters category; I know, I know, Its just a DP........ I want
I know, I know, Its just a DP........
I want to reinforce the inside of my DP95 and was wondering if the F/G resin would "attack" the parent material of this thing.
Thoughts, ideas, ???
Thanks guys,
-Tim-
I am not sure what the DP95 is made of, I assume you mean polyester when you say 'fiberglass resin'. It should be fine but I would suggest a dime size drop on the inside left to cure to be sure. Be sure to put it against the material of the helmet itself and not a coating material. Because the polyester is a two part catalyzed polymer it doesn't have the harsh solvents you usually have to worry about causing a bad reaction with other materials. Testing it in a small spot is the only way to be sure unless someone else can attest to whether it's a go or no-go based on their personal experience.
-x
I would use epoxy resin instead of polyester resin.
i fiberglassed the inside of my white interior 95. I did it 1 light coat at a time after doing a test on a small part. Worked great.
Digital, did you use the polyester resin, as found in most auto repair shops or walmarts? or did you use something else?
-x
I'm just curious. What benefit does fiberglassing the interior give to a DP95?
I did use polyester in thin coats so that it didn't warp the helmet.
CSMacLaren, i did it so that it would hold it's modified shape better.
Regarding modifying the shape of a helmet: if you're using heat with help of, say, a heat gun, then heating the helmet and then rapidly cooling under cold running water would do the trick. I've had to do some modifications to a Rubie's plastic helmet, and this method not only works, it holds it shape well. The trick is to heat slowly and the area around the immediate area you want "retrained" so that the "memory" of its original shape does not assert itself in the modification.
Last edited by CSMacLaren; 06-27-2007 at 10:15 AM.
Fibre glassing the inside of a Don Post helmet should be fine, I did this to my old one (now sold, too small) I used the standard polyester (?) resin found at most auto repair shops and the glass matting that came with the set. Remember to let the strips dry fully before adding more.
Mike
Thanks for all the help guys.......:thumbup
The reason for this is to add "Stiffness" to it. The small size is right for my frame. When I where this helmet, I have a neck
-Tim-
Dude, thats not right, I dont see how it fits you at all. Your a big boy. OK, anyone bigger than me is HUGE
Yeah I know man, teasing ya for not keeping in touch... punk
I have your touch right here.....SMOOCH :o
......![]()
Easy guys.
Adding a craft ring to the bottom of the helmet along with the glassing should really hold the shape.
![]()
I am looking to give added rigidity to my Rubies Vinyl Helmet (I'm experimenting at the moment so opted for a cheap make!). I was wondering whether brushing on layers of non-corrosive epoxy resin to areas which flex or warp would make them harder and more rigid? Also gluing a high density plastic like acrylic in the form of ribbing on the inside would prevent warping. any ideas out there as to the best way to make my helmet more stronger and rigid?![]()
I´ve also got a vinyl helmet and I used epoxy resin. Two layers on the outside so I could use enamel for the paintjob. On the innerside I also used epoxy resin followed by some layers of fibreglass - very hard!
Please do not use polyester resin - it will heat the helmet!!!
Tazman..what was the preparation for the fibreglass? Was it simply sand inside plastic, apply epoxy resin and then add fibreglass patches (with more epoxy on top)? Did the fibreglass take to the platic or does it come aprt from it when you bend the helmet?
Score the inside of the helmet with a big kitchen knife to get some good gouges and grooves for the resin to take to. Put a thin coat of resin on the part you want to work on and stick the mat to it. Dab more resin on top until completely covered. Leave a few inches and repeat. This helps to minimise the heat caused by the curing resin. Use small strips of matting as they are easier to fit into curves etc. Once cured and cooled go back and overlap all the gaps as this will add strength to the joins. If the inside is not perfectly smooth and free from fibers dremel the hell out of it until it is.
Ahhhhh.....it all seems so clear now!
Thanks for that Raffles![]()
No probs!
Raffles,
Do you know where I can buy epoxy resin (and hardener? if necessary...) and fibreglass matting from in the UK? I have tried internet companies but they charge bucket loads and not many of them!!! Tried Halfords also but they charge £10 for a small patch of fibreglass!!!!
![]()
Cash and carry's or woolworths.
Hey Timmy,
hve you completed this yet? Wondering what your progress is. Post pics if you have em.
@ Roba Fett:
Raffles had said all - no more to say!
Thomas
Automotive repair stores, motorcycle parts stores also, or boat repair shops should also have the glass matte and polyester. I wish I could name a specific shop to go to for you but it should be something you can find in your local book.
-x