GB's bucket progress - WOF plans ROCK

Once I get my rangefinder arm I will build my earpiece around it... just to be sure it fits before I go ahead and make the thing. I kinda like this helmet all black. I'm considering a Fett/Vader cross-over.

Nice shape on the lid GB... keep up the good work!
And yeah Alans templates do rock!

Thanks Mojo-fett. I don't think my dent is a dead-ringer for the real deal, but I'm happy with it. I made it out of watercolor paper. I soaked the paper and then pressed a dent into it with the blunt end of a large knitting needle - the paper was resing on a soft cloth pad, which in turn was laying over the open end of a large candle holder. I let it dry in that shape and then cut the contour of the dent out of the paper and glued it into the hole in my lid. Worked out quite well I think.

Oh, and it's hard to see in this pic, but I have also put the little arrow heads on the brow. I can't wait to get my rangefinder arm so I can add the guide on the ear then it'll be ready to mold and cast in resin. (well, after a little more surface work)

Nice job! People do wonders with those templates.

This rangefinder arm was machined by Darkraptor (Sith Training Temple name), and I think it looks awesome.




I am really looking forward to building the pivot housing for it and finally being able to attach it to my bucket when I get it cast in resin. I suppose I could temporarily fix it onto my sculpture, but that would just be because I'm too impatient to see what it looks like on the bucket. Mind you, there is something to be said for finding exactly the right place to mount it before I cast it... then I can just bang out the hole after casting and it'll be ready to mount. Hmmm. Sounds like a plan.

I installed my rangefinder stalk temporarily to see if the angles and such were right with my pivot housing. Looks about dead on to me, but I'll take any suggestions if you got 'em.

is that bondo? it looks like the crack filler type that comes in the tube. if so be careful with it man because it tends to crack really easily.

Originally Posted by Ion_Cannon_Gunner

is that bondo? it looks like the crack filler type that comes in the tube. if so be careful with it man because it tends to crack really easily.

Only when it is put on too thick. It thin layes it works great, but thats really what it meant for anyway.

I doubt that it is, though. To get it that smooth GB would really have to sand it and it turns more pinkish after sanding.

Yes, what you are looking at is a thin layer over the entire surface of the sculpture, which has not been sanded yet at the time of the photo. I have since fine sanded it several times and you can no longer see the wood grain on the rangefinder pivot housing. This is how I get a uniform surface when I get to the final stages. I would never use glazing and spot putty as a major constructive material, because, as you say, it would be far too brittle. I would also not use this method if I was planning to use the sculpture as the finished product. Since it only has to survive long enough to be molded, I don't care if it eventually flakes or cracks. I've had good luck in the past with this method.

Did you use WOFs dome template? How'd you get it so darn smooth???!!

What material did you use for the build? Just starting mine, and as you can see I have many questions.

Thanks...

Rytil.

Originally Posted by Rytil

Did you use WOFs dome template? How'd you get it so darn smooth???!!

What material did you use for the build? Just starting mine, and as you can see I have many questions.

Thanks...

Rytil.

How did I get it so smooth?... hmmm... lots and lots of sanding

I used a technique similar to the baseball helmet mod, but I used a plastic bicycle helmet I had laying around in the shed. I had to do some work to shape it, but the plastic was quite flexible, so I was able to force it into the contour I wanted by using hot glue and some card stock... kinda hard to explain, so I post a pic or two... let's see...

The green one is the original shape, the pink is the one I modified - cut in half, front to back, glued in the card shaper -


Here's one of me pressing the plastic into the contour -


And then I took the two halves and glued them onto a card in the shape of the top of the helmet, after trimming the bottom of the pink stuff -


In this case the two halves are not parallel, but they sort of narrow toward the front, because that gave me a better dome shape for the Fett. Then I just used drywall tape and covered the gap and used putty to fill it. Then I took 40 grit sandpaper and just sanded it all down into the shape I wanted to match the rest of the curves. From there I just added more putty and refined it further and further until I had a smooth dome.

That's one fantastic helmet! Great job! That RF stalk fits perfectly.

Can't wait to see it molded & casted.

Alan

Why, thank you, WOF. Although I would have come up with my own plans to build it, it would have taken me forever, and I doubt they would have been so accurate and perfectly-fitted as yours. I had darkraptor from the STT make my stalk, and since he used exactly the same plans printed out at the same scale it worked perfectly. The only modification I made to your plans was very minor - I changed the angles of the stop edges on the stalk pivot housing... if that makes sense. I found the tapered edge of the stalk required slightly angled edges on the upper and lower "walls" the stalk rests against when up or down. Otherwise I didn't modify a single thing about your plans. No need to.

I'm just waiting on my silicon order to arrive (by next Monday IhopeIhopeIhope!!) and I'll start slopping the stuff on. Between now and then I'll have just a little more surface work to refine and it'll be good to go.

I'm really looking forward to having a finished Fett lid. I've been wanting one of these for ages, but I had to get my Vader project out of the way first. Well, my Vader project isn't *really* "out of the way", but it's far enough along that I can relax a bit on it now.

Got my silicone. I just need to prepare my helmet for molding and all will be ready to go.

Well, it's been a while, but I managed to get some time to put some silicone on the bucket.



Looks like a gooey pink blob. I just need to make a mother mold now. I plan to do that tomorrow - if I get the time. More to come.

Not long now GB... whole thing has looked good from the start! can't wait to see the final pull...

Thanks Mojo-Fett. I still hope to get some work done on my mother mold today, but I'm wondering about the weather. Looks kinda iffy right now.

Although the weather is getting colder, I still have weather good enough to occasionally lay in some f'glass. The stuff I'm using is just auto resin - not my first choice. But I consider this a test casting, and with any luck it will be good enough to actually finish up for my own display piece.

More progress.

Out of mold.


And some different angles. You can see I have a few bubbles to fill, but no big deal.

Looking good, the silicone choice was a good one... as far as the fiberglassing that looks good as well, though I recommend using the more erratic style of fiber tissue sheets, not the stuff that looks like woven fabric. Also, using a wax free gel coat (2 coats) first will help you when it comes to sanding and seeing your final product for what it is.

Thanks evan4218. Doesn't the wax free stuff take forever to fully cure? Seems to me I had problems with that before... took forever to get rid of the tacky surface. Why do you recommend the erratic non-woven sheets? Does it help to avoid bubbles? If that's the reason I will be happy to use it, but in the past when I have used it I found it was horrible stuff to work with. I could never get it to go where I wanted and always ended up with huge lumps of stuff sticking out everywhere.

The erratic sheets (not sure the real name of it) are much eiser at least for me to avoid bubbles... use small squares esspecialy when trying to conform to different shapes. Use a dabbing motion with a brush or toung depressor. This will get it nice and flat.

As for the gel coat, my stuff cures to a non tacky state in a few hours when its cold out side and quicker when its warmer. Its just a matter of adding enough cattilist to make it cure fast enough. You do want to have the tackyness while you are fiberglassing other wise the FG wont bond to the gelcoat enough to make it strong. There are different types of gelcoats out there that cure differently so I am sure there are ones that remain tacky. What kind of gel coat did you use?

That is one sweet bucket! Are you going to be selling copies of this?

To evan4218 -

I will try what you suggest. Another thing I have heard people say is that you use the mat stuff as your first layer, and then use the woven as a second layer while the resin is still wet. That is supposed to allow you to press it all flat.

To Aaron -

Thanks for the compliment. I might sell copies of it, but I have yet to determine if it is full size or not. I don't have anything to compare it to. If someone can give me a few measurements from a full-size then I can get an idea of what to tell people when they ask "what size is it?" I *think* it's probably just a little smaller than movie sized... but as I say, still to be verified.

And, just a little more progress -



T-visor cut out, trimmed, putty started, but I still need to clean up edges and stuff.
GB

Here's TK409s measurements from a Sgt. Fang

Gypsyboy, if you built your bucket using WizardofFlights templates printed out at 100%, then your bucket is the same size as a Terminal Fettler bucket... which is movie sized. ( mine was compared with Zombierepellents Terminal Fettler, so trust me on that. )

The woven matt sheets are intended for mostly flat repair work. You normally wont see them used in film props for this reason, but dont get me wrong... if you can make it work then more power to ya... I use it sometimes for FG jackets but as far as props and castings I use the other... and you shouldnt need more then 2 layers of the FG fabric tissue... in some cases you can get away with one as long as they all over lap eachother.

Still more work, but coming along. I can't believe how much I got done just today.

Thanks for the input guys. I did use the WOF plans full scale. It's just that I'm rather on the small side and the helmet doesn't really look that big on me. Go figure. As for f'glassing - I know the non-woven mat is meant to be stronger, but I use at least two layers, always overlapped. I simply find the woven stuff to be so much easier to work with that I consider it a worthy trade-off for me. If I had to make something that had to be really really strong I would definately use the non-woven.

Thanks again for the input people!!

GB

A great helmet and great building tips on one thread! man, I love these buildups!

That's what's great about discussion forums like this. I love the abilty to get input and hints from others along the way. I don't know anyone around where I live who would know the first thing about any of this stuff, but there is a great wealth of very talented and skilled people here. Cheers!

Quick question: have folks here had success with aluminum as a base colour for the lid? I went out looking for a silver but all the shop had on hand at the time was aluminum. In the past I have found that alum spray gives a silver look that is pretty much the same as most "silver" sprays. Any thoughts?

'Nuther question: what kinds of tools do you guys use to trim your f'glass lids? I used a jigsaw, which worked quite well, but I ended up with little fractures along the cut edges. Not a big deal because I went back with bondo and reinforced all the edges from inside, but is there a particular cutting tool, or type of blade, that would avoid getting the little fractures? I thought about using a scoring tool, but not sure how well that would work.

Moat of us use a dremel tool with a fibre reinforced cut off disk for the majority of our cutting/trimming jobs. They work like a dream.

You can then use micro files and an exacto blade for the finer details and clean up purposes.

The fibre reinforced disk is certainly a great cutting tool. I find it harder to stay on course with the dremel, that's the only reason I didn't use it this time. But I figured that would be the general answer on that question.

****! That's looking great, GB!
Rob

Thanks Rob!!

Well, I went ahead with the aluminum spray. Although it sprayed on really thick and goopy, I think the colour seems pretty good. I'll sand it all down and then respray it... with any luck I'll be able to control the spray a little better next time.

Has anyone here ever put together an actual color chart (not just color names/numbers, but actual colors) for any of the Fett lids? I expect that I will probably have to use a different brand than most people use, for reasons of availability in my neck o' the woods, and having the actual colors on hand to compare with what they have at the shops will go a long way.

And, yes, I did do a search, but came up with nuttin'.

GB

I see a few spots and contours I would like to touch up, but apart from that I'm very happy with this lid.

Very nice work!!
Can't wait to see it finished.

I have one question, and don't get me wrong, you did a fantastic job and I'm very impressed.

It just seems from the pictures showing the Tvisor that the left mandible/mask(faceplate) part seems to be a tad low. It may just be camera angle, but I noticed it in two photos.

(Left, when looking at pictures)

Is it really that low, or are the cameras trying to distort your bucket?


evil cameras...



~Bio

I wondered about that too. If I compare the angle of the bottom edge in profile it appears to be the same, so the lower back mandible being lower doesn't make sense. I think it must have to do with the camera angles/distance etc. I know for a fact that my camera angle isn't exact to the other one. You can tell when you look at the way the T part of the visor curves back around on the same side of the helmet. Just doesn't quite match up. Oh, well. I tried. But thanks for pointing that out. It also may be that my lid is slightly different in shape on top of the angle being different. I'm prepared to accept that as a possibility. I'm also prepared to leave it as it is LOL.

GB, the work you have done is incredible. I can't believe how close the comparison pics you posted are. The dome shape, the angle of the cheeks, the proportions-everything! You definitely have a winner. A winning paint job will take it to the next level. Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks guys !!

I'll be going for the Empire paintjob. I just love that cat scratch LOL. I also just find the whole Empire version to be cooler looking.

It occured to me, however, that I haven't made the ear pieces yet. I just started them last night. I expect it'll take me some time to get out and collect up all the different colours I need in the right kinds of paint.

I think I'll make myself a colour chart that shows the actual colours rather than just the paint name and number. That way I can compare the colours in the store even if it's a completely different brand with a name/number of its own.

I'm starting with the right ear. It easy. Practice good. Me get smart from this.



The orange foam (which take tight contours much better than paper or card) defines the center slot along the length. It rests against the balsa form in the middle, and is held in place against it with glue and little balsa sticks. The next step will be to make the card stock cap for the sloped edge all around.

Very cool! Turned out really nice

you have a very nice looking bucket so far but 1 little thing that i wouldnt even bother with is that the dent is a tad to high it needs to be lower.and another thing if u are gonna sell buckets how much???

The dent does look a little high. I think it's *partly* due to the slightly different angle, but I expect it could very well actually be just a tad too high. In that particular photo comparison you can tell, but to just hold the thing and look at it you would probably never know. Heck, I didn't realize it till I looked at it in the pic above LOL.

As for how much... I can't really say at the moment. I would have to consider how much work and material, as well as to what degree of finished I would have to make it. I'm thinking a raw casting would be under a hundred (I would lay up at least 3 layers of f'glass if I was to sell one - I put two on mine, and although it's fairly strong the lower face / mandible area is a little too easy to bend for my liking). Anyway, a finished one would be a lot more work of course. It's hard to say just yet how much, as I haven't finished my own yet.

I like the way the ear build is going....good idea...
Rob

Thanks again Rob.

I forgot to mention that I plan to cast my earpieces in resin, which is why I glued the thing down onto a surface to work it and keep it flat. Just in case it doesn't make sense to people why I would do that.

I started putting the sloped cap on last night, but I had to improvise because I lost the sheet of paper with the template for the cap piece. (and my printer is konked out) Dunno what happened to it. Fortunately, I have a wierd natural sense of how to shape things to make them fit, so I essentially guessed at it. Anywho... more to come on this one.

Got the cap part on. And the prism-shaped part at the bottom. The rest is all putty and smoothing now. I'll pro'ly start building the right ear pieces before I finish up this one.

Great lid... Cool idea for the ear pieces too? I had a nightmare with my left ear!
As you say the dent is a little high but nothing to write home about, keep the progress up...

I've been trying to make a visual reference for the colours found on the ESB lid. This is a work in progress, and I expect to have to make some changes, as well as some additions because I don't have the right ear colours yet. I don't really recommend using this as a guide for your lid if you are going for as accurate as possible, because as we all know different printers print colours differently. BUT, I want to make a visual guide for myself so I can go out with the colours in front of me and find what I need from whatever brand of paint happens to be at the paint (hobby) shop. Here's how it looks so far.



I think the left ear colour should actually be the same as the dome - but I could be wrong.

Just a little more surface work on the left earpiece.

Very nice work! Just wanted to point out that at the bottom of the channel on the left ear cap is actually rounded and not straight.

[GB wanders through site looking for ref pics - comes back]

Oh, so it is. Not sure why I didn't notice that before. Thanks for pointing that out. Easy fix. Cool.

I did more work on the surface of the left earpiece, and built a box around it to make a mold.



You can see above that I fixed a minor detail that was pointed out to me on TDH... the bottom of the center channel is rounded.

OK, so the box is just foamcore hotglued in place.



Then I just mixed my silicone and poured it into the box. I did this slowly, making sure the bubbles were out.



Now I wait.

Very cool

Awesome thread. Great work bud!

The silicone sat overnight in the box, to be sure it's completely cured, and this morning I released it.



Although I wish I had poured just a little more silicone to make the bottom of the mold a tad thicker it turned out really well. With a slightly thinner bottom than I would like it means I will have to be sure the mold is sitting on a very flat surface before pouring. I would do that anyway, so no big deal.

It's too cold now to do any resin casting (as I have to work outside - no indoor workspace for fumes like that), so it may be a while before I get the ears cast. The alternative is that I get ahold of some kind of resin, or something, that doesn't have noxious fumes.

The temperature went up enough this afternoon that I thought I would take a chance casting the resin. It was a bit colder than it should be for casting, but the sun is shining brightly. I also used a tad more hardener to help the curing along.



I used a level to ensure the mold was sitting horizontally before pouring. The resin is gelled at this point, but I'm going to leave it overnight. I had good luck last time I left the casting in the mold for longer than usual so I'm going to try it again.

is it bad that i do my resin stuff in my nice warm house?

looking great!

Yes, it's bad. I don't recommend you continue to do so. The fumes can make you, and anyone else in the building quite sick. There are varieties of resin that can be used indoors without a fume hood, but they are specialty resins. What do you tend to use?

Originally Posted by Gypsyboy

Yes, it's bad. I don't recommend you continue to do so. The fumes can make you, and anyone else in the building quite sick. There are varieties of resin that can be used indoors without a fume hood, but they are specialty resins. What do you tend to use?

smoothcast from smooth-on. it's a 1:1 mix stuff and has no particular smell to speak of.

i do have an externally vented hood in the basement, but i've found that i don't even need to use the resin in that area.

if anything it actually smells sort of nice

Took my casting out of mold today. Although there are a few minor blemishes and tiny bubbles it is over all a good casting.




I also noticed a little wobble on the curve at the top end (from my original, the mold was true). Wish I had caught that before molding it, but at least it's a minor fix. Same with the little bubbles, minor work. Most of the other areas that look blemished are actually internal features, or just bits of loose flash.

Great first pull GB....
As you say a little filler and it's good to go?

GB...that looks really sweet, man....can't wait to see the other ear!
Rob

Thanks.

It will take very little filler to fix these minor flaws. I had to level the back of it though, because the resin sort of shrunk more in the middle than at the ends. Didn't expect that. It meant that there was a gap between the earpiece and the helmet. I didn't want to loose any thickness, so I mixed up some auto putty and made a splat in the middle of a piece of acetate which was sitting on a very flat surface. I then pressed the earpiece onto the splat so that it made a flat back when it hardened. Before it cured completely I took a blade and trimmed the extra away from the edges.

It is currently sitting overnight again to cure more before I continue to work with it. It had the slightest bit of tacky surface when I released it... not enough to make it a problem, but enough that I want to leave it just a little longer before I start working on it.

Well, I shot a coat of primer on the left ear, and started filling the small bubbles. They're small, but they're taking forever to fill for some reason. I'm on about the 5th application and they're still not completely level




In the meantime I have started the right ear pieces. Just looks like a mess right now, but it's going well so far. I like working with balsa wood for models like this.



It occured to me as I started the upper right piece that the complexity of the shape means I will have to make a two part mold. This will be interesting.

The basic construction of the right earpieces are done. I need to fill some gaps and smooth out the surfaces. I haven't decided if I will add the three holes between the "goal posts" in the sculpt or drill them in after the casting is done. Either option has it's plus and minus.

What a great thread! I love watching projects coming together like this.

Thanks webchief.

I have a question about fitting the earpieces against the side of the helmet. I'm finding that there is enough curve on the helmet that there is a gap at the front and back edges of the earpiece when I put it in place. Do others have this problem, and if so how do you deal with it?

I had the same issue with mine. On my first helmet, I simply filled in the gaps but on my final helmet i sanded the back of the ear piece so that it had a concave curve to it. Thus allowing it to sit flush against the helmet.

I thought about making a concave surface on the earpiece. I wonder though if it would be easier to take a sander and make the surface it rests against flat instead.

Did you just sand and sand in a lengthwise direction until the center was dipped in? And what about the ends? Doesn't doing that take some of the end shape away?

Yeah, I simply sanded down the center lengthwise.

The amount that you have to dish the ear pieces, you hardly notice once the ears are fully installed.

I'm ashamed to admit that I hadn't checked out this thread until today.

GB, you are doing a great job!

I plan on casting mine after the first of the year. Where did you get your silicone rubber stuff? Would you be willing to post (or PM) the company name, address, and cost? Thanks!

Keep it up!

David.

I still have no idea how I'm going to build my earpieces. I'm throwing around ideas of assembling them from plastic, or carving from foam and coating with latex plaster, or bondo... yours look great, tho! Wood is an idea I hadn't thought of. I don't know what I'm going to use to make my stalk yet, either. Ugh.

Clever using the balsa wood! That stuff cuts great, I never thought to use that before.

Originally Posted by Jaiden

I'm ashamed to admit that I hadn't checked out this thread until today.

GB, you are doing a great job!

I plan on casting mine after the first of the year. Where did you get your silicone rubber stuff? Would you be willing to post (or PM) the company name, address, and cost? Thanks!

Keep it up!

David.

Thanks David,

I have read through your thread a few times and I am quite interested in your technique. When the day comes that I get power tools I will probably try something like that.

I am using a Smooth On product called Rebound 25. It's a brush-on 1:1 mix ratio silicone that I absolutely love. I've used it for a good number of molds now and it's awesome stuff. Easy to mix, easy to use, great stretch and memory, and I've never had a problem releasing anything. As for where to get it, well, I'm in Canada so I get it from a Place in Toronto, but I expect you will be able to locate a retailer in your area. Just go to www.smoothon.com and look for the suppliers link.

The silicone is kinda expensive, but you end up with very durable molds you can use over and over again. As for quantity, I got a 1 gallon kit last time and so far I'v made a mold for my Fett, a Vader mask and helmet, Vader shins, my left Fett ear, and will have enough left for my right ear pieces and one or two more molds, depending on their size.

I plan to make a custom Mando at some point after I finish up a few other projects. I'll just cast a new Boba and fill the dent and start customizing the details. I like the idea of adding a fin on top.

Originally Posted by samlynn79

I still have no idea how I'm going to build my earpieces. I'm throwing around ideas of assembling them from plastic, or carving from foam and coating with latex plaster, or bondo... yours look great, tho! Wood is an idea I hadn't thought of. I don't know what I'm going to use to make my stalk yet, either. Ugh.

Originally Posted by GCNgamer128

Clever using the balsa wood! That stuff cuts great, I never thought to use that before.

I went to a hobby shop and found a bag of balsa pieces. All different shapes and sizes. Worked great for finding just the right thing for each component of the constructions... except the angled/curved caps. I used watercolor paper for those because the thickness had to be - well - not thick.

You can use whatever you feel comfortable with though. Any material you can cut and glue together should work. If you want to use plastic maybe you can find styrene pieces at your local hobby supply place.

As for the stalk... I had a machinist friend make mine for me out of aluminum, so I can't really help you there... other than toss out the idea I was playing with before I got it made by someone else. I was going to find a piece of 1/4" thick plastic and cut it from that. I gotta admit, I'm glad I had it made in aluminum though.

I put the earpiece on, but only temporally. I think it's sitting a tad too high. Need to redrill and reposition. It's also not refined for fit yet, as there is still a gap on the front and back edges.

That bucket has a really, really nice profile!
Very nice work GB!
I do agree with you on the ear position though......think it's too high and it may be a little short once you move it down. The gap at the top of the brow looks good the way it is, but I fear it'll be too big once you scoot the ear down. I can't wait to see it painted!
Awesome!

Josh

Thanks kripps/Josh

I think what I will do is split the difference. I know the bottom of the earpiece should line up with the bottom edge of the helmet, but I don't want it too far down from the top edge. I think what happened is I didn't quite trim the bottom of my helmet as far back as I should have. Oh well. I'm still happy with it and I'm not gonna sweat over a few millimeters difference here and there.

Really good job so far Be proud!!

Looking better each time I see it.

David.

Thanks guys. Things have slowed down a little. I'm still working on the rangefinder earpieces, but have been doing other things as well, so it's going slower. Part of my problem is I can't seem to finish one project before I start another. The weird thing is the new project is one I didn't think I would bother to do... I've started scratch-building an EpIII Vader mask. And of course my other projects that have been (slowly) on the go for a while now... Red Guard lid, 3PO head, 45% scale Vader armour to go with a Riddell mask, modification of Kellogg's clone trooper helmet, ..... oh, and Queen Nefertiti.

Originally Posted by Jango72

Yeah, I simply sanded down the center lengthwise.

The amount that you have to dish the ear pieces, you hardly notice once the ears are fully installed.

Thanks for the input on this, Jango72. I ended up doing a little of what you suggested as well as sanding the surface on the helmet a little flatter. Worked great! I just need to refine the edges of my earpiece a little more before I install it permanently.

No worries. I'm here to help out in any way I can... wether you decide to try my suggestions is entirely up to you. It's always best to have multiple suggestions and weed through them to find the one's you'll actually use. ( then you won't do the dreaded, "why didn't you suggest that before I ..." )

I've started test painting the bucket, just to get a sense of where I'm going with this. I couldn't find all the colours I need, so I'm doing a lot of mixing - hence the testing. Anyway, I also decided to go with the topical method of painting after all.



Let me know what you think of where I'm going so far. Any comments are welcome.

Very nice!

Thanks SarlaccBits. I think my colours are a bit dark. I'll try to do a direct compare shot side-by-side with a real prop pic.

In the meantime, I started to sand it down in prep for the next paint layer attempt. My daughter thought it needed something. She figured her old easter hat would look nice up there.

VERY VERY NICE MAN!

Little more painting. I think my left ear is too bright green. What do y'all think?

I'm looking to start making a mold for my right earcap - the one that goes over the end of the rangefinder stalk. This, as we all know, is a complex shape. Can I get a bit of input from others who have cast these parts in resin as to the best way to go about making the mold for this particular piece? I'm thinking it will probably have to be a 2-part.