WiP: FPH #15 Progress Thread

[ShocKNurse]

I'm certain that this thread won't be as good as some...say those by Superjedi, Spidey, etc., but here goes.

I was lucky to find a FPH on sale in the Cargo Hold. Thanks to CMAnavy!

The attached pics (at the bottom of the post) are just a few pics of the bucket and one of the FPH in comparison to the bucket I have now...it's tiny!

Here is what I have done so far:

I painted the inside flat black. I'm not sure why I did this first because after all of my fooling around on the inside mounting screw posts and what not, I'm going to have to touch up some spots.

I started by masking the helmet. I don't take any chances.

Then I sprayed the flat black and it looked like this:


I got the keyslots cut out. Boy let me tell you, I'm glad there aren't 7 of them because if there were...I would be blind. Getting those things looking pretty with the Dremel and hobby files makes you go cross-eyed. Granted, it is a lot easier with the FPH because the lines are so delineated.

Here is the helmet "out of the box":


I started by drilling two small holes to get a foothold on the slot.


Here is the final. Again, using the Dremel and a drill bit to do the majority of the work. Finished up with hobby files and some fine grip sandpaper wrapped on a popscicle stick. I am repainting the back of this bucket anyway, so I'm not worried about the paint chipping.


I also go the gorgeous alluminum ears mounted using Evan4218's template. I made the holes slightly larger than needed (thank Eric! ) so I could do some adjusting.



I also mounted the screw posts for the MQ-1 board and visor using JB Kwik. This stuff is great. Highly recommended...just have everything ready to go because, like the name implies, this stuff sets quick!!


I'm waiting on the visor, but have a nice template ready to go. The fun starts tomorrow with sanding smooth the old paint smooth on the back, masking, and putting down some primer on the back panels and keyslot areas. Hopefully, I'll get to it early so I can get the concrete down too. Then I have to test some concoctions of blue-green. 8)

[Mojo-Fett]

Looking great so far Mike...
I too dislike taking out those key slots!

Gotta love those Ali ears mounted bruv? nice poster in the background!

[jackpot76]

Looks really good...keep it up

[superjedi]

Hey, you're on your way! Excellent.

[987654321a]

Looking good there.

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 12/17

So far today I've been able to get the visor mounted. I got an shade 5 visor from weldingsupply.com. I just temporarily mounted it so I could see how it looked and snap a pic.


I also placed the Borden connector. I started by drilling two small holes in the existing cast (much like the keyslots) and then proceeded to CAREFULLY expand the hole with a Dremel bit. Prior to this I had used a Dremel cutting wheel to cut the Borden in order to expose the brass and flip it. I anchored it with plumber's Goop.


There were a few 'slips' where the bit chiped some paint. I'm not super worried about that as much of the chipping will be covered by weathering. The downfall of the helmet having paint on it upon arrival. But, in the end, it will save me some work!

I hope to get the back sanded and primed today, but I have to do some X-Mas shopping!

[superjedi]

Real Borden! Nice. You're right, most of those 'slips' will be covered by the weathering.
Are you planning to only repaint the back panels? The rest of it looks good right now.

[Major]

That is coming along nice, wish I had the painting skills. . .


Robert

[jackpot76]

goooooooooooeeewwww......Slip awayyyyy!

[ShocKNurse]

Real Borden! Nice. You're right, most of those 'slips' will be covered by the weathering.
Are you planning to only repaint the back panels? The rest of it looks good right now.

Right. Only redoing the back panels and keyslot area. The rest is looking good thanks to CMAnavy...he painted the dome, brow, and upper/lower cheeks.

[Mojo-Fett]

Nice touch with the real Borden Mike!
Keep up the good work...

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 12/19

Wow! After some airbrush difficulties, I'm back on track. Not to bore you, but my Badger airbrush decided to stop on me. Rather than stress about finding the right parts and whatnot (given that the hobby shop guy said that there was no guarantee that replacing the parts would fix it) I just decided to buy a new one. I got a Paasche. To quote Ferris Bueller, "It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up."

SO... I got the ears and the back of the helmet primed using Reefer Grey.



I'm amazed at how fast the PS paints dry. It is great for keeping up a quick work pace. After the primer dried I put down the PS Concrete on the back panels.


While that was drying, I got the RLM 83 down on the left ear.


And then the Floquil Earth on the RF ear.


Tomorrow I hope to test some colors for the back panel. I'm going to post them up and get some feedback. If all else fails, I'll resort to the RLM 73, but I'd like to find something a bit better.

[superjedi]

To quote Ferris Bueller, "It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.

Awesome!

I'm amazed at how fast the PS paints dry.

That's one of the reasons I love the Polly S paints. Easy to clean up, too!

Looking good, man.

[Firespray]

Looking good!

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 12/20

Ok. I used Floquil Caboose to get the keyslots painted. Boy was it a pain to get paint onto all the sides of the slots!


Then I set about mixing some paints for the back panels. In these pics it's hard to see the color differentiation, but the RLM mix is definitely more blue than the straight up RLM 73. I used one 1/2 oz bottle of RLM 73 and mixed it with 55 drops of RLM 24 (dunkelblau).




I'm getting ready to transfer the damage to the back panels using some graphite paper. I'll have pics up later!

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 12/21

I got more done on the ears today. I stated with the left ear and used Count Dookies templates to carefully cut out a scaled duplicate of the left ear "decal". I masked it and shot it with Tamiya flat white. Then I used some Woodland Scenics dry transfer letters for the symbols. I didn't have any question marks for the dots, so I just cannabalized some "I"s.


Next up was the RF ear. For this one, I scaled a couple of the C4 reference pics to the known dims of the ear I was working on. Then I took some tracing paper and outlined the "decal". This was especially exciting because now the "decal" on my RF ear is actually based on the the screen used bucket! Then I masked the ear and shot the "decal" with PS Engine Black. Then I used some a combination of Lucksy31 decals and the dry transfers for the symbols. The white portion of the arch is part of Lucksy's set. I just didn't know how to mask that without causing problems. I like the way it turned out!

[987654321a]

Looking great!

[Squirrel]

That 'decal-ing' looks downright awesome! It looks like a computer-generated template! I wish the lines on my bucket looked that good. . .

[drache]

Just strating my first helm - thanks for the - the alluminum ears are awsome looking!

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 12/29

I hope everyone had a happy holiday. The festivities delayed some progress, but I suppose I'm not in a hurry.

In the past couple of days I've been able to stencil the back panel damage using a technique that Madmartigan suggested back in the thread that Superjedi started for Madmartigan's FPH paint-up. I used graphite paper. I used Elmer's Craft Bond to secure the template to the graphite paper. Using this method keeps me from having to do mirror images and transfering the image more than once.


To summarize, I used Count Dookie's AOSW templates as a starting point. The first thing I did was go into Photoshop and black out any damage that isn't in the ESB screen used helmet. The next part was certainly more tedious...scaling the templates to fit. As Superjedi pointed out to me, not only do the templates need to be re-sized for the individual helmet you are working on, but even once you scale them close to the right size, certain portions within each template need to be scaled, i.e. say the Back Right Panel bottom right.

As I went, I was able to save these scaled templates for the FPH. If anyone would like these, just PM me and I'll email them to you. After I applied the stencils, here is what I had.



I then went about masking the areas using Windsor and Newton masking fluid and shooting the custom blue-green on the back panels.


Now, I'm not sure what I did wrong, but peeling this masking fluid off was a serious PIA. I either applied it too lightly or allowed it to sit for too long.
Here is what we have at this point. Now the fun really starts!!

[superjedi]

That came out great! Now get those fine detail brushes ready.

[usmcrice0311]

wow that looks awesome. good work

[mmgraphics]

All that work lies ahead of me ... my FPH is waiting to be painted ... and I can´t wait to start ... but first comes the move to our new home in mid january ... but then ... LOL

Cheers,

Manuel

PS: ShocKNurse, your helmet came out great so far! Hope mine will be similar when I get it startet. ;-)

[webchief]

Looks amazing! Yes, you have to take the masking fluid off usually within the same day as the painting I've found. If you wait too long it's a MAJOR pain to get it off cleanly.

Where do you find carbon paper?

[Squirrel]

I can't count the times I've peeled back a layer of paint because of waiting too long. . .

[ShocKNurse]

Looks amazing! Yes, you have to take the masking fluid off usually within the same day as the painting I've found. If you wait too long it's a MAJOR pain to get it off cleanly.

Where do you find carbon paper?

Michael's or prolly Hobby Lobby. It is soooo easy to use! Thanks Madmartigan for that tip!

[DomePiece283]

Man its really lookin good.

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 1/4

So afte a bit of a holiday hiatus, here are some more updates. I have been busy sizing and fitting stencils and going blind looking at reference pics. So, going forward, you may notice that there are some reference pictures that do not match this helmet. Well, I'm doing my best to replicate the screen used ESB helmet and not the AOSW exhibit helmet. Therefore, there will be some scratches missing. See Superjedi's FPH progress thread for some pictures of what I'm talking about.

I have been able to get the left ear cap detailed. I used Testors camouflage grey for the lighter portions and PS Rock Island Maroon for the red details.
Here are two shots, without and with flash, respectively:



Once I sized the next set of templates, I stenciled the bright silver areas using the same method mentioned earlier. The bright silver areas will act as landmarks when I go to apply the SP Dark Lark Grey, that is why I applied that first with my Size 0 brush and a nice hard tip size 1 for very small detail. I used Floquil Bright Silver for these areas. It was hard to find suitable lighting to capture the look of the silver, so these are the best I could get.






I'm now sizing and matching up the SP Dark Lark Grey areas for the back panels. More to come!

[Mojo-Fett]

Doing an awesome job Mike...
That left ear has come out great!

[MORGUE]

Looking good man! Hope to see you wearing it at an event soon!

jon

[usmcrice0311]

looking good

[Madmartigan]

Wow!! I actually contributed something useful!!

Glad it worked out for you! It is soooo much easier than the tracing paper method, imho. And the lines it leaves are really clear and really sharp. It's like the difference between a first gen casting and a 2nd or third gen recast.

Rock on, my brother! Looking good!

-Chris

Michael's or prolly Hobby Lobby. It is soooo easy to use! Thanks Madmartigan for that tip!

[ShocKNurse]

Looking good man! Hope to see you wearing it at an event soon!

jon

Thanks Jon! I hope things are well for you!

[Tatooineboy]

Great work so far! I'm bookmarking this thread for future reference.

Keep up the good work!

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 01/10

Being back to work really stinks..less time to paint, hence the lack up updates in the past week. "Last time on FPH #15 WIP" we had gotten the Floquil bright silver applied to the left and right back panels. I have now progressed with the PS SP Dark Lark Grey on the back panels.



And a closer shot of the back left panel:


And a closer look at the left section of the back right panel. This section was a tedious nightmare. I focused on the large sections of grey first so I could use them as landmarks for the other, smaller details.


A closer look at the bottom right side of the back right panel:


The progress on those back panels was over the course of the last week...doing a little at a time as I went blind looking at different reference pics. I have NOT applied the "mint green" color (AKA Delta Blue Wisp). I'll apply that later so that I only have to break it out and thin it down once.

I moved onto the keyslot area next. For the silver damage on the edge of the keyslots, I wanted to try to replicate the "feathered" look, so I used a piece of foam to apply the paint. I dabbed some bright silver on and then removed the excess by dabbing it on a piece of spare sintra I had laying around. The foam:


And some pics of the keyslot area. The same two colors as above were used plus the addition of the PS PRR Maroon. This paint takes two coats, at least, so apply lightly and then reapply once dry to get the desired coating.



And a bit closer:


Next is onto the hat band area around the back...

[usmcrice0311]

wow that looks awesome.

[ShocKNurse]

wow that looks awesome.

Thanks bro!

[Spideyfett]

great work so far...

one tip, if you use enamel paint on the aluminum ears, there really is no need for primer. Just a light sand with extra fine steel wool before painting should do the trick....this way you can come back with an ex-acto edge blade and skim the edges of the ears to make the metal shine through..

[ShocKNurse]

Thanks Alex...appreciate that! I used acrylics this time around, but in the future I'll think about using the enamels.

Shouldn't I still be able to use an X-Acto and scratch down to the metal? I mean, I will have two layers of paint to get through instead of one, but the principle is the same right?

[Spideyfett]

Shouldn't I still be able to use an X-Acto and scratch down to the metal? I mean, I will have two layers of paint to get through instead of one, but the principle is the same right?

Oh ya definately the same technique can be used... but you might see some primer come through.

[superjedi]

Looking great, man! I hear ya on "going blind" doing some of the details on this thing.

[CombatBaby]

looking spectacular!

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 1/14 (Early 1/14 )

I have started the rear "hatband" area. The same three colors as with the keyslot area: Floquil Bright Silver, PS Dark Lark Grey, and PS PRR Maroon. I started on the right side, figured I started with the back left panel so I should show the right side of the helmet some love. I worked my way up the side and across to just above the keyslot area. Again, I stenciled and put down the silver and grey separately and then did the maroon by hand once I had some landmarks.



I put down the silver on the left side but am now going to sleep. I'll try to get the grey and maroon down Thursday.

[CMAnavy]

Glad to see your getting her done up nice. If I ever try again I'll get those templates from you, I am NEVER doing the back pannels free hand again. I really hate them....

[superjedi]

Alright, Mike! Keeps looking gooder and gooder.
You got the PO Green between the top/bottom ear sections, too. Nice!

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 1/16

I finished up the rest of the reat hatband area and the vertical area next to the left ear. I also spilled nearly a whole bottle of PRR Maroon on my workspace in the process. Oh well, I needed another trip to the hobby store...

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 1/22

OK...here we go! Those mandibles are a killer!! I finished up the hatband and mandibles this week using the same 3 colors: 1. Floquil Bright silver, 2. PS SP dark lark grey, 3. PS PRR maroon. Same plan as before, apply the silver for landmarking and then go with the grey and maroon. I didn't use the SP dark lark grey stencils to quite the same extent as before, as much of the application was to small areas. I used reference pics to eyeball the application and in some of the slightly larger areas, drew on the damage with light pencil before applying.

CAUTION: To those planning on using the Count Dookie stencils...the damage area near the left "eye" is compressed! Superjedi experienced this problem when he did his FPH paintup, so I knew to watch out for it. To remedy this, I sized up a ref pic from the AoSW exhibit to match the dims of my helmet and bingo-bango-boingo...I had a workable template. I just slapped some tracing paper on the screen, traced the damage and then moved it to my graphite paper. I did save the pic in question if someone needs it!!

I would also recommend thinning down the SP dark lark grey a bit. It is fairly heavy and applies better when you thin it with some isopropyl alcohol (for acrylics only!!)

Now on to the pics!!






Hopefully I'll be getting to the upper cheeks tomorrow. Then I need to test some color mixing with the SP dark lark grey before applying that color to the lower cheeks and dome!!!

[22ssplt]

Looking sweet bro!

[terminal fettler]

Alright, Mike! Keeps looking gooder and gooder.
You got the PO Green between the top/bottom ear sections, too. Nice!

Nice paint job, but a small detail i spotted: i was seeing the painted section between the ear pieces as the light grey colour that appears in small areas on the right hand mandible?

[superjedi]

Mike, excellent work! Aren't you glad to have the mandibles done?

Nice paint job, but a small detail i spotted: i was seeing the painted section between the ear pieces as the light grey colour that appears in small areas on the right hand mandible?

Garrett, you know, I've always "read" that color as PO Green. . . but you might be right! I'll have to go back through some of my detail reference pix.

[ShocKNurse]

Nice paint job, but a small detail i spotted: i was seeing the painted section between the ear pieces as the light grey colour that appears in small areas on the right hand mandible?

Mike, excellent work! Aren't you glad to have the mandibles done?



Garrett, you know, I've always "read" that color as PO Green. . . but you might be right! I'll have to go back through some of my detail reference pix.

You know, in some shots it has the appearance of POG and in a couple it does look like a shade of grey. I think that if it is grey, it is lighter than the SP dark lark grey that is used for the damage areas. Perhaps more of a Reefer grey?

I went with the POG based on the ref pics I saw and the work that Eric has done in the past. Thanks for the input though, it will give me something to think about if I ever dare do this again!

And yes Eric...I'm SO glad that the mandibles are done!

[terminal fettler]

Just found this shot on TDH ref pics, i think it's probably the same colour as the highlight that runs between the mandible and upper cheek, a grey /blue /green colour deepened on which colour its next to...
I use Humbrol 147 seems to hit the right spot next to the other colours...

[superjedi]

Well, I must say I'm glad for people with better eyes than me.
Garrett, I had some time to search through my pics, and sure enough it certainly does appear to be a contrasting pale gray/blue-gray color between the ear pieces!

Here's a couple of shots to highlight the same area you just showed.



This actually makes sense, too, because the color between the upper and lower ear sections on the PP3 bucket is an almost off-white kind of pale grayish color.
Here's a pic of that same section on the PP3.



I wonder if this could have been the "original" primer color used on the helmets. Or maybe even the raw cast that just wasn't painted at all?
Very interesting!! Man, I love learning new stuff about the Fett!

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 1/27

Finished up the upper cheeks. Moving onto the lower cheeks after I test out some paint mixes.

[Darth_Nickel]

your bucket looks amazing Mike. Amazing.

[ShocKNurse]

your bucket looks amazing Mike. Amazing.

Thanks buddy!

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 1/31

Well, I got the lower cheeks done. I can't say that I'm too happy with the color. I darkened the PS SP dark lark grey with some PS PRR Brunswick Green, a tip passed down from Lee (RS) and Eric (Superjedi). I had some old sintra laying around that I had put some POG on to test the colors. I got the mix to where I liked it on the test sintra (a nice contrast b/t the two colors) but when I put it down on the helmet, it just looks lighter. I put down two light coats on the sintra and did the same with the bucket... Anyway, here are the lower cheeks. I'm not very happy with the way it looks, but perhaps if I stop staring at it, it will grow on me...

I used a compass point for the fine scratches on the left cheek. I just scratched down to the gelcoat layer. It is very easy to control and you get a good depth from it.

[22ssplt]

Just when I thought mine was decent....HAHAH. That is CRAZY AWESOME!

[superjedi]

Mike, as far as the darkened Lark Gray, it will look different in different lighting conditions.
How does it look under natural light? When you're taking flash pics it's gonna appear a lot lighter than it looks by eye.
Bottom line is, with any custom mix, if you're not happy with it, consider remixing the color and repainting those portions before you go further.
It's your helmet, and you're the one who has to decide if you're happy with the way it looks.

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 2/3

I spent my snow day at home finishing up some of the dome areas. I had put down the silver the other night and got the darkened Lark Grey down today. I'm happier with the color now...I guess it just had to grow on me.

I am basically focusing on the back (between the ears ) right now. I will probably move toward the kill stripes next...the catscratch scares me. It is very signature and I don't want to goof it up.

I also began to add some of the fine scratches. I used a compass point to scratch down to the gelcoat. I also got the RF ear detailed. For that I used SP Dark Lark Grey out of the bottle. I also swapped out Scott's decals for some dry transfer letters. The stripes are capital "I" from Woodland Scenics condensed gothic typeset, as is the "T". The dot is actually a lower case "o" from Woodland Scenics regular gothic typeset. Then I just canabalized other letters to fill in the circle (thanks Eric!).





RF ear:

[superjedi]

Woo hoo! Go, Mike!

[Spideyfett]

Yup..very nice work.

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 2/11/09

Did you all think that I had disappeared? Sorry for the lack of updates, but work travel interfered! So...

I have gotten the damage in and around the killstripes done. If you notice the ref pics, you notice a wear pattern in the area underneath the kill stripes. I tried to replicate that with some fine grit sand paper. I slowly sanded down to the primer and in some areas the gelcoat. The same idea was carried on to the area between the 9th and 10th killstripe. Again with the compass point for the fine scratches.



I also got the front scratch done and did the areas around the turn signals.


You can probably also see that I've got the dent "silverized" as well as the dent scratch that trails off from it. I think that you can see the stencil for the dark grey area as well. I'll lay that down tomorrow.

We're getting there....

[22ssplt]

Man that looks amazing Mike. Keep up the good work!

[webchief]

You're doing an excellent job with this. Keep it up!

[ShocKNurse]

Man that looks amazing Mike. Keep up the good work!

You're doing an excellent job with this. Keep it up!

Thanks guys!

[Horifett]

This is going to look great when it's all finished, keep at it.

[Scooter]

Hats off to you, that looks fantastic!

[Goauld]

Very Well Done. Looks amazing

[6thdvcptn]

Just amazing, fantastic work.

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 02/23

Wow...been awhile! So here is where we're at. Since our last episode, I've added some detail to the dent and the scratch that follows back from it. I'm not done with the dent, as I still have to add two more colors to it: some out of the bottle SP Dark Lark Grey and some Delta Ceramcoat Blue Wisp for the highlights.



I also finally got the catscratch done. Of all things, this was the one that I was most worried about. I really like how it turned out. You can also see the area directly adjacent to the RF ear.


Also got the area above the catscratch done and you can also see the top scratch above it.


Onward we go to the highlights you can see on the back panels and dent. Also need to add the white thumbprints.

[22ssplt]

I have seen this helmet in person. I was a loss for words. Which doesnt happen that often. lol. This truly is an amazing helmet paintjob.

[superjedi]

Looks excellent, Mike! You're getting so close now.

[ShocKNurse]

I have seen this helmet in person. I was a loss for words. Which doesnt happen that often. lol. This truly is an amazing helmet paintjob.

Looks excellent, Mike! You're getting so close now.

You two are too kind. Wouldn't have been possible without the help of people here at TDH. Plus, I'm not done yet...I could still totally jack this thing up!

[ShocKNurse]

UPDATE 3/2

Well ladies and gents...it's done!!! WOOT!!

I'll briefly elaborate on the final steps:

I applied the Delta Blue Wisp to the back panels and dent, as well as select areas on the keyslot area, rear hatband, and brow. In the pics you can see how the appearance changes depending on the lighting.




Following that, I applied a clearcoat to seal the paint. I used Testors Dullcoat. I applied lightly just to give the surface some texture to grab onto the pastels that were to follow.

I applied four basic pastel colors to the bucket: ash grey, black, dark brown, and sandy brown...oh and orange-red for the killstripes! I just shaved some of the powder off with a flat-edge X-Acto and used varying sizes of make-up application brushes (thanks out to the girlfriend) to apply the powders.

On the dome and lower cheeks I used the ash and sandy brown, feathering up from the bottom to the middle and in from the edges. Along the line b/t the upper and lower cheeks I went a bit darker with the dark brown. The effect is rather subtle and just goes to break up some of the POG to give the appearance of fading. It may not show up really well in the pics. I used a bit darker shade of gray-black for the blast residue streaking back from the dent. I mixed a combo of orange and red to get the effects on the kill strips; starting heavier in the back and fading as I went forward. I also added some dark brown to the turn signals.





I used mostly black on the back panels and you really can't see the effect at all. It just helped to diffuse the blue-green color a bit.

After I got the pastels done, I added the white thumbprints in the killstripe area and added the greasy stains on the back of the helmet with Citadel inks. Then I thinned down some Tamiya khaki and used an old toothbrush to flick the paint on the bucket, focusing mainly on the front.

I finished up the asok's RF with PS Engine Flat Black with silver detailing. Thanks to mrgr8ness for the LED assembly.

Enough rambling...here are some overall pics of the finished product. Thanks to everyone who offered input into this project. I want to especially thank Eric (Superjedi) for his masterful advice during this. I couldn't have done it without your help!

[superjedi]

Duuuuuuude. . . that's beautiful.

Just try to wipe the huge smile off your face whenever you look at it. Can't do it, can you???

[Spideyfett]

Haven't posted in awhile... but this is looking great

[22ssplt]

Hats off Mike!

[FettOfficer]

Yup! That does look awesome Mike!

[terminal fettler]

Excellent job...

[Gypsyboy]

Wow. Great job. And thanks for making a point of mentioning the colours you used as you went. That helps to follow the process for people who are as-yet unsure about all the colours and where they go.

[aero]

nice work hope mine comes out as good as yours

[ShocKNurse]

Thanks guys!! It was a long road and I'm glad to be done.

It is hard to stop looking at it and grinning...you're right Eric! But I tell you what, it will be nice to stop laying awake nights trying to figure out how I'm going to do "x".

I hope that the colors that I posted help, but the primary source was the RS list (Sticky at the top of the Helmet page) and SJ's progress threads.

I'm now going to go put this is in a plastic bubble!